Overview
Ronda is an ancient Andalucian town of great historical interest that attracts large numbers of tourists. It has also long been a popular base for birders wishing to explore one of the best areas for mountain birds in southern Spain.
The town of Ronda is split in two by a great gorge, 135 m deep with a river at its base, high cliffs and rocky slopes.
The surrounding mountains in the far south of Spain, to the west of the Sierra Nevada, reach more than 1900 m at the highest point, include some spectacular scenery and provide excellent birding in an easily reached area.
Birds
Notable Species
Ronda itself has Rock Dove, Pallid Swift and Alpine Swift and Eurasian Crag Martin preyed upon by Peregrine Falcon and Common Kestrel and Lesser Kestrel.
Other birds of the cliffs include Black Redstart, Blue Rock Thrush and Rock Sparrow while in scrub and along the river Nightingale, Melodious Warbler and Grey Wagtail can be seen.
Vultures were once common around the town's cliffs but a short trip into the nearby mountains is now required to see them.
Fields nearby have Red-legged Partridge, Cirl Bunting and Ortolan Bunting and Woodchat Shrike.
The Penibaetic Range of mountains dips its toes into the Mediterranean on the eastern side of Gibraltar and into the Atlantic to Gibraltar’s western seaboard. From here the range strikes north and then eastwards, never far from the Mediterranean and has it’s ceiling in the Sierra Nevada with several peaks of over 3,000 metres. It is as dramatic as it is stunning. The Serranía de Ronda and Sierra de Grazalema is situated amidst the limestone peaks, which lie south and west of the Sierra Nevada. The area’s highest peak is Torrecilla at 1,919 metres. To the southwest of the Serranía the mountains are sandstone. The habitats of the area are varied and include sheer limestone cliffs, pine woods (P.sylvestris, P.pinaster), Spanish Fir (Abies pinsapo), grasslands, scrub and oak (Q. rotundifolia, Q. suber) woods. Amongst the flora there are several species endemic to the area.
The bird community is particularly rich and breeding birds include, to name but a few, Golden Aquila chrysaetos, Bonelli's A. fasciata, Booted Hieraaetus pennatus and Short-toed Circaetus gallicus Eagles, Griffon Gyps fulvus and Egyptian Neophron percnopterus Vultures, Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus, Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni, Eagle Owl Bubo bubo, White-rumped Apus caffer, Alpine A. melba and Pallid A. pallidus Swifts, Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius, Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis, Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura, Black Redstart Pheonicurus ochruros, Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax, Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia, Rock Bunting Emberiza cia and Crossbill Loxia curvirostra. The Serranía and its surroundings include three major natural parks, Sierra de las Nieves (declared Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1995), Sierra de Grazalema (declared Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1977) and Los Alcornocales a richly wooded park and declared ZEPA reserve (zone of especial protection for the birds). Major river systems flowing to the south include the Rio Genal and Rio Guadiaro, both are important to the many species of birds that avoid higher land altitudes during migration i.e. Warbler Sp., and for summer residents (as they flow in the high summer, when most other rivers are dry). These rivers act as a natural highway for many migrating species in spring and autumn.
The area is remarkable, not only for being an internationally important area for fauna and flora, but also for an almost total lack of organised research into even a comprehensive list of bird species using the Serranía and Sierra (until a recently published book). The creeping hand of agriculture, land development, deforestation and poorly planned tree planting all put this natural wonder at critical risk. Adding to these risks are illegal poisoning, egg collecting, trapping and hunting. There is a local saying 'If it can fly, you can eat it!' A depressingly familiar attitude shared by all countries in the Mediterranean basin.
Recent research and love of the natural wonders that are the Serranía de Ronda and Sierra de Grazalema, has raised many an old local eyebrow. It was not so long ago, when during the oppressive years under Franco, people had to supplement their diet with whatever food they could get hold of. Hunting today largely has its roots in the necessity of hunting for 'the pot'. Thankfully, a more enlightened attitude is evident with the younger generation, who not only appreciate their natural heritage, but many actively pursue means of protecting it. However, discovery can motivate you. Not always the preferred kind like, finding higher densities of breeding Rock Thrushes than anyone thought possible, but also by getting some idea why Song Thrushes in Northern Europe might be diminishing. Talking to one shoot organiser he mentioned, quite casually, that they had shot over 500 Song Thrushes that season! Apart from some research and census work involving raptors, birds by enlarge; have been poorly served by any organised and meaningful basic survey work here.
The mounting pressures increase the need for knowledge and case building to protect this most important area. For us it has been depressing, although challenging, to begin a research programme, where very little is available historically to use as a beginning, or by way of comparing with our own results. Once we began though, there were some very encouraging finds to our work i.e. a local healthy and still viable population of Bonelli’s Eagle Aquila fasciata, despite local hunting interests! Note: Bonelli's Eagle. The highest breeding density in Europe is here within the Serranía and Sierras.
The research programme covers 48 times 10Km² squares. It is a mammoth undertaking and includes fringe, outlying areas of the Serranía de Ronda and Sierra de Grazalema. The methodology used follows normal formats i.e. Linear transects, listening stations and tetrad sampling, but is also supplemented by ringing and colour ringing. The later, colour ringing, is being applied only to the family Turdidae and in particular Oenanthe sp. The objects are to establish a comprehensive atlas for all birds of the Serranía and Sierra at all times of the year, breeding population studies, densities and post juvenile dispersals. Habitat registers and their relative importance will also form many of the appendices to the finished research! Eventually, the published results will provide a valuable reference for future use.
The Serranía de Ronda and Sierra de Grazalema, is unique and an important area for European birds. Not only is the area rich in breeding species, as previously mentioned some four different species of eagle nest here, but also because of its’ close proximity to the Straits of Gibraltar (only 14 kilometres from North Africa). It is an extremely important feeding area for migrant birds of western and northern Europe. Recent research has shown the importance of the area to several breeding species under threat. Such birds as Golden Eagle A. chrysaetos, Bonelli's Eagle A. fasciata, Egyptian Vulture N. percnopterus, Peregrine Falcon F. peregrinus, Black Wheatear O. leucura, Rock Thrush M. saxatilis, Orphean Warbler Sylvia hortensis and Chough P. pyrrhocorax, are all classified by the World Conservation Union (UICN) as being under varying danger levels of extinction.
Your support of ornithological tourism in the Serranía and Sierra will, we are certain, help raise the profile and importance of the need to protect the natural wonders of this unique area. People are far more likely to protect and preserve wildlife, if it can generate real income and contribute more fully to the local economy.
Check-list
Birds you can see here include:
Little Bittern, Western Cattle Egret, Little Egret, Purple Heron, White Stork, European Honey Buzzard, Red Kite, Black Kite, Egyptian Vulture, Griffon Vulture, Eurasian Black Vulture, Short-toed Eagle, Northern Goshawk, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Common Buzzard, Spanish Imperial Eagle, Golden Eagle, Bonelli's Eagle, Booted Eagle, Lesser Kestrel, Common Kestrel, Northern Hobby, Peregrine Falcon, Red-legged Partridge, Stone-curlew, Rock Dove, European Turtle Dove, Common Cuckoo, Eurasian Scops Owl, Eurasian Eagle Owl, Little Owl, Tawny Owl, Long-eared Owl, European Nightjar, Red-necked Nightjar, Pallid Swift, Common Swift, Alpine Swift, White-rumped Swift, European Bee-eater, Eurasian Hoopoe, Iberian Green Woodpecker, Thekla Lark, Wood Lark, Eurasian Crag Martin, Barn Swallow, Red-rumped Swallow, Tawny Pipit, Meadow Pipit, Grey Wagtail, White Wagtail, Common Wren, Alpine Accentor, Eurasian Robin, Common Nightingale, Black Redstart, Common Redstart, European Stonechat, Northern Wheatear, Western Black-eared Wheatear, Black Wheatear, Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush, Blue Rock Thrush, Ring Ouzel, Redwing, Song Thrush, Mistle Thrush, Cetti's Warbler, Western Olivaceous Warbler, Melodious Warbler, Dartford Warbler, Western Subalpine Warbler, Sardinian Warbler, Orphean Warbler, Common Whitethroat, Blackcap, Western Bonelli's Warbler, Iberian Chiffchaff, Common Firecrest, Crested Tit, Coal Tit, Eurasian Nuthatch, Short-toed Treecreeper, Iberian Grey Shrike, Woodchat Shrike, Eurasian Golden Oriole, Red-billed Chough, Eurasian Jackdaw, Northern Raven, Common Starling, Spotless Starling, House Sparrow, Rock Sparrow, Chaffinch, Brambling, European Serin, Eurasian Siskin, European Greenfinch, Common Crossbill, Hawfinch, Cirl Bunting, Rock Bunting, Ortolan Bunting
Other Wildlife
Spanish Ibex occur in these mountains and there is a great deal of interest for botanists with a rich, varied and colourful flora including many endemic species.
Site Information
Areas of Interest
Grazalema is a small town in a mountainous and forested area about 30km to the west of Ronda with oak, pine and Spanish Fir woodlands. There are also many fast-flowing streams, rocky outcrops and steep cliff faces.
An excellent range of birds can be seen here including raptors such as Egyptian Vulture and Griffon Vulture and Golden Eagle, Short-toed Eagle, Bonelli's Eagle and Booted Eagle as well as possible Eurasian Eagle Owl. Spanish Imperial Eagle is also possible in this area.
Other birds that occur in the mountains to the north and west of the town include Black Wheatear, Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush, Red-necked Nightjar and Dartford Warbler and Bonelli's Warbler. White-rumped Swift occur in some of the higher mountain areas and another Iberian speciality, Spotless Starling, is also found here.
Part of this area has been declared a Natural Park and the woodlands here are often busy, especially with parties of schoolchildren so early morning visits are preferable.
The oakwoods, containing Holm Quercus ilex and Cork Oak Q. suber, to the east of Grazalema along the C344 road are excellent for a variety of woodland species.
To the south of the town the C3331 runs through some impressive scenery including a deep gorge that can be good for raptors.
Many other areas in the mountains around Ronda are equally good and worthy of thorough exploration.
The Puerto del Boyer, north of Grazalema and close to Zahara is excellent for raptors and south of Ronda, the villages of Cartajima, Juzca and Alpandeire are surrounded by good areas of hill woodland and scrub, although access and viewing can be difficult.
The local reservoirs and small marshy areas are always worth checking for wetland birds. Alpine Accentor and Ring Ouzel occur in these mountains in winter.
Access and Facilities
The area can be reached by road from the resorts on Spain's Costa del Sol, it is only 35km from Marbella, and there are airports conveniently situated at Gibraltar and Malaga.
Ronda can be approached from the southwest on the C341 via Gaucin or from the southeast on the C339 via San Pedro. All the minor roads in this area can produce good watchpoints.
Hotel and guesthouse accommodation can be found in Ronda and there may be hotels and rooms for rent in the smaller villages including Grazalema which also has a campsite. Camping is also possible at Zahara, Ubrique and El Bosque.
The alternative is to stay at one of the numerous resorts along the Costa del Sol.
External Links
Content and images originally posted by Steve
[1] Bonelli's Eagle- Europe's Stronghold
[2] Checklists for birds, mammals, butterflies, reptiles and Flora
Reviews
Black Wheatear's review
The area of the Serrania de Ronda and Sierra de Grazalema is probably understated here for its importance not just within Spain, but also in Europe. For example, Bonelli's Eagles have their highest European breeding density here and remain fairly easy to locate. Griffon Vulture also have some of their largest and most important breeding sites here. It is an exceptional area for raptors, not just at times of migration, but also for providing suitable breeding habitat for many. Of the smaller birds, Western Olivaceous and Orphean Warbler are probably easier to locate here than other areas. Also discovered in recent times is the North African subspecies of Great Spotted Woodpecker D.m.mauritanus, which can be found breeding alongside their European cousins throughout many areas of the Serrania. Whilst in the scrub layers of the mountains Spectacled Warbler not only breeds, but some remain during winter. Many familiar species such as Northern Wheatear, Chough, Redstart and Crossbill have their most southerly breeding range here for Europe. Rock Thrush, Rock Sparrow, Western Subalpine Warbler and Dartford Warbler are commonly encountered and Black Wheatear are another species which have one of their main European strongholds here. Some of the famous white villages of the area are home to Lesser Kestrel and there are not many other parts of Spain where you can witness Common, Pallid, Alpine and White-rumped Swifts flying together! I must admit mixed feelings about the thrills of seeing White-rumped Swift; they time their spring arrival almost to perfection when one of my favourite birds, Red-rumped Swallow have just completed the building of their new nest. Immediately on arrival this rare swift evicts the swallows and starts to collect feathers to line the bare mud nest. So if you are in the area look under any bridge for the familiar shaped nest of Red-rumped Swallow and if you see feathers surrounding the entrance, chances are it is occupied by White-rumped Swift. Whilst looking under bridges, keep an ear cocked for Cetti's Warbler and Nightingale, both are common around dry and flowing waterways. Such diversity in habitats cannot fail to attract an equal diversity in bird life. Woodland, both broadleaf and coniferous also holds some great species. Bonelli's Warbler, Iberian Chiffchaff, Hawfinch, Crossbill, Coal and Crested Tit are here in good numbers. Any woodland walk should produce these species plus Short-toed Treecreeper, Woodlark, Cirl Bunting, Common Firecrest and Sardinian Warbler. On open rocky sites Thekla Lark, a challenging species for the unfamiliar, Tawny Pipit and Western Black-eared Wheatear are among those to lookout for. Never far from these open rocky areas are Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Bunting and Black Redstart, these are joined by Alpine Accentor in the winter. The area attracts many notable species in the winter. Ruppell's Vulture has joined Black Vulture and Spanish Imperial Eagle as annual visitors. Both the northern and Pyrenean species of Ring Ouzel winter here and Fieldfare, rare elsewhere, are found annually in winter at high altitudes. The flora and fauna of this beautiful and stunning area is exceptional. The plant list now exceeds well over 2000 species and is being added to annually. I would recommend you visit the website [www.spanishnature.com] and take a look at the checklist for wildflowers, amazing. On the same website there are checklists for birds, mammals, reptiles and butterflies. For those wanting to visit there is also accommodation listings and sites of special interest (birds).
Pros
- Diverse Habitats = diverse birding and Raptor Heaven
Cons
- Personally none.
verman1's review It took me several years to realize that so close where I live (Costa del Sol) there is such a marvellous birdwatching paradise. Everybody goes to La Donana, Extremadura, La Janda, indeed all very nice places, but they don't know about La Serrania de Ronda! Pros
- Scenery
- interesting species hardly to find somewhere else
- even the food is cheap and good
Cons
- none
