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Overview
The third largest island in Mexico and the largest inhabited one, Cozumel is something of conundrum. It's exceptionally rich biologically despite being young (submerged several times, most recently 120,000 years ago), near to the mainland (only 19 km away) and low lying (no more than 15 m above sea level). Cozumel has/had at least 3 endemic bird species, 2 endemic mammals and an endemic lizard. Although tourism is the main industry, around 70% of the original vegetation remains and it's still relatively easy to see its special birds.
Birds
Notable Species
Cozumel has 3 currently recognised endemic bird species: Cozumel Emerald, Cozumel Vireo and Cozumel Thrasher. The Thrasher may be extinct (not seen for more than 10 years). The Emerald is evidently closely related to mainland forms but the Vireo is morphologically distinct.
In addition, Cozumel hosts around 16 endemic or near-endemic subspecies. Some of these have strong claims to species status (notably (Cozumel) House Wren). Endemic subspecies: Great Curassow (one of only 2), Roadside Hawk, Yucatan Woodpecker, Golden-fronted Woodpecker (Velasquez's Woodpecker), Yucatan Flycatcher, Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Brown-crested Flycatcher, Bright-rumped Attila, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, House Wren (a strong candidate for species status), Blue-grey Gnatcatcher (distinctive), Western Spindalis (distinctive), Yellow Warbler (Mangrove Warbler), Rose-throated Tanager, Northern Cardinal, Yellow-faced Grassquit.
Many Yucatan endemics or specialities are easier to see on Cozumel than on the mainland and there are a few Caribbean species which occur on the island. Examples of the former include Black Catbird and Yucatan Vireo; of the latter Caribbean Dove, Zenaida Dove and Caribbean Elaenia. Yellow-lored Amazon was common around San Miguel but seems to have been largely trapped out since 2016.
Other Wildlife
The Cozumel pygmy raccoon (Procyon pygmaeus) is one of only 3 raccoon species. Cozumel has or had distinct forms of (grey) fox, White-nosed Coati, Collared Peccary and 3 small rodents. There are also introduced Central American Agoutis and Kinkajous (status of the latter is unclear). Lowland Paca (Cuniculus paca) and White-tailed Deer (Odocoileus virginianus) have been recorded. The carnivores are all endangered, as is the endemic Harvest Mouse (Reithrodontomys spectabilis).
Cozumel has various reptiles including a single endemic parthenogenetic lizard, the Cozumel Racerunner (Aspidoscelis cozumela). Boa Constrictors were liberated on Cozumel in 1971 from a movie set. Since the 1990s they've become common and threaten many of the endemics.
General Information
History and Use
Cozumel was inhabited by the Maya and visited by Hernan Cortez. Tourism is now the biggest industry with the the waning of agriculture.
Access and Facilities
Cozumel is easily reached by ferry from Playa del Carmen, itself around an hour and a half from Cancun. The crossing takes a little over half an hour.
Selected Sites
The waterfront gives views of common seabirds like Ruddy Turnstone, Sandwich Tern, Royal Tern, Laughing Gull and Magnificent Frigatebird.
- Planetario De Cozumel Cha'an Ka'an. This has a short trail behind the planetarium. It has attracted most of the key species especially Cozumel Vireo. Ebird: https://ebird.org/hotspot/L4993746
- Pueblo Nuevo / Subdivisión Abandonados. No longer (wholly) abandoned, one of the most accessible and best spots on the island for forest birds. Large numbers of nightjars (mostly Common Pauraque) after dark. Look for fruiting Cecropia for (e.g.) Western Spindalis. Now very few parrots fly over at dawn. Ebird: https://ebird.org/hotspot/L2439002
- El Cedral (Pueblo). Rich set of forest birds including good population of Cozumel Vireo. Interesting migrants like Prothonotary Warbler and Cerulean Warbler. Ebird hotspot: https://ebird.org/hotspot/L1973735
- Planta de Tratamiento de Aguas Residuales (Ptar) de San Miguelito and route to this. This is a good area for Cozumel (House) Wren. The road holds abundant migrant warblers and Black Catbird is common; after dark check for nightjars especially Common Pauraque. The treatment works is good for waterbirds particularly Ruddy Crake. Ebird main hotspot https://ebird.org/hotspot/L873083; also https://ebird.org/hotspot/L815042 and https://ebird.org/hotspot/L5626137
- Punta Sur Eco Beach. Beach/water birds like Royal Tern. Included in this list as one of the few places you can still see the Pygmy Raccoon. Ebird: https://ebird.org/hotspot/L14259573; also https://ebird.org/hotspot/L7650854
