New user with NL Pure 10x32 Problem (2 Viewers)

[jgraider]

By switching from an NL 10x32 to an NL 8x32, you will notice a big reduction in blackouts because of the bigger 4mm EP versus the tiny 3mm EP in the NL 10x32. Also, you will have a bigger FOV, greater DOF, and it will be brighter than the NL 10x32. There happens to be a like new NL 8x32 for sale in the Bird Forum classifieds right now for a great price.

https://www.birdforum.net/threads/swarovski-nl-pure-8x32-binocular-36232-usa.464217/

You absolutely can't make this stuff up.........

 

[Owlbarred]

By switching from an NL 10x32 to an NL 8x32, you will notice a big reduction in blackouts because of the bigger 4mm EP versus the tiny 3mm EP in the NL 10x32. Also, you will have a bigger FOV, greater DOF, and it will be brighter than the NL 10x32. There happens to be a like new NL 8x32 for sale in the Bird Forum classifieds right now for a great price.

https://www.birdforum.net/threads/swarovski-nl-pure-8x32-binocular-36232-usa.464217/

Blackouts (10x32 NL)
are banished using the method that I’ve described in several posts in this thread, and in a separate thread. “You can lead a horse to water, but you can’t make him drink. “

 

[zesprianu]

I'm still waiting for the FHR to arrive, I'm hoping it works for me.
Mr. Denco, why should NL be sold? I read in a post of yours that you liked them a lot, and they were the best, don't get me wrong, I don't want to offend you, just know your opinion.

 

[NatureLover123]

I have ordered the headrest to try it out, it will arrive in a few days.
I am a little disappointed with these 10x32, they are very uncomfortable for me, lately I only use my monarchs, the NL always stay at home.

Hello, do you have any updates? Does it work for you now? I hope you enjoy the glass now.

What I‘ve learned with my 10x32 SF is, that moving the eyes around in the image is only possible under bright sunny conditions (your eyes pupils are then small enough). With a 32 format you not only need to setup IPD right (one time setting), you not only need to set the eyecup click stop position right (one time setting) you also need to position the binoculars at the right position on your eyebrows or inside your eye sockets (depends on your individual face shape, an each time setting when you look through them).

When you pan then it’s almost impossible to not move the eyes out of the exit pupils when it’s not a sunny bright day….

They are tricky to use but once mastered they are a joy to use and so lightweight you can carry them everywhere in the nature and will not notice their weight, all day long. But it‘s a tradeoff when it’s not a sunny bright day, I can live with it easily and keep my 42 at home.

 

[Owlbarred]

What I‘ve learned with my 10x32 SF is, that moving the eyes around in the image is only possible under bright sunny conditions (your eyes pupils are then small enough). With a 32 format you not only need to setup IPD right (one time setting), you not only need to set the eyecup click stop position right (one time setting) you also need to position the binoculars at the right position on your eyebrows or inside your eye sockets (depends on your individual face shape, an each time setting when you look through them).

When you pan then it’s almost impossible to not move the eyes out of the exit pupils when it’s not a sunny bright day….

They are tricky to use but once mastered they are a joy to use and so lightweight you can carry them everywhere in the nature and will not notice their weight, all day long. But it‘s a tradeoff when it’s not a sunny bright day, I can live with it easily and keep my 42 at home.

For those who read only the latest post or thread...for others pardon the redundancy.

Good advice for those for whom your suggestions work.

For me, careful (ad infinitum) IPD adjustments proved futile and exasperating for the 10x32 NL. Using the method described in Using the NL Forehead Rest to eliminate blackouts: 10x32NL blackouts (kidney beans) were banished. Moreover, using only the Forehead Rest for support and eyecups set fully inward (not touching the skin), the 10x32 NL tamed the blackout beast and conferred a steady view.

BTW: The other problems you rightfully mentioned (e.g,.panning) were also eliminated.

 

[PeterPS]

Thanks for the answers, I don't have the forehead support to do the test and I think it would be uncomfortable.
I use the eyepieces in the furthest position, but it's hard for me to find the exact point to avoid blackouts. If I move my eyes away from the eyepieces I see the blackouts like in photo 1, and if I bring them closer I get the typical kidney-shaped ones like in photo 2 (this second thing also happens to me with the monarchs, but in the monarchs between photo 1 and 2 there is a lot of space to position the eyes and not see blackouts, in the NL it's like going from photo 1 to 2 with no middle ground).
Could it be that the NLs with their wide-field eyepieces always produce a bit of blackout like in photo 1? Is it a design problem?

What you show in the 2nd pic are indeed blackouts, but what happens in the situation of your 1st pic is that you don't see the sharp edge of the field stop (thus you don't see the full FoV). Instead of FHR you can try O-rings for a finer adjustment of the eyecups length.

 

[zesprianu]

Good afternoon, sorry for the delay in replying, I have been sick with the flu and have not been able to test the binoculars properly.
Using the FHR has improved the blackouts considerably but they have not disappeared completely and I have a theory about this:

In other binoculars when you move your eyes away from the eyepiece you lose field of vision but the image is still relatively clear, in the nl 10x32 what I see when I move my eyes away is like image 1 (a circle appears inside the image, not on the edges) that I posted previously and that I have seen in some posts on the cloudynights forum as SAEP and that also appears in astronomical eyepieces.

Could this be the downside of getting such a wide and well-corrected field? I repeat, sorry for my English, I was helped by Google translator.

 

[NatureLover123]

Good afternoon, sorry for the delay in replying, I have been sick with the flu and have not been able to test the binoculars properly.
Using the FHR has improved the blackouts considerably but they have not disappeared completely and I have a theory about this:

In other binoculars when you move your eyes away from the eyepiece you lose field of vision but the image is still relatively clear, in the nl 10x32 what I see when I move my eyes away is like image 1 (a circle appears inside the image, not on the edges) that I posted previously and that I have seen in some posts on the cloudynights forum as SAEP and that also appears in astronomical eyepieces.

Could this be the downside of getting such a wide and well-corrected field? I repeat, sorry for my English, I was helped by Google translator.

I think what you then see is so called spherical aberrations. Those mild brighter ring means you are slightly away from the sweet spot. Just push it a bit more into the eyesockets, or try one click lower.

But this would not bother me, as long as you enjoy the view.

Yes, those very wide corrected fields come with minor tradeoffs.

 

[Maljunulo]

I think your problem is that you are too close to the eyepiece, not too far away.

If you are inside the exit pupil, kidney beans and blackouts happen.

 

[ragin-cajun]

I have the NL 8x32s and have never had blackouts other than the occasional on normal adjustments or refocusing. I don't wear glasses. So much incessant talk about blackouts and glaring for what is a User specific issue but is often negligently blamed on the model.

 

[zesprianu]

Yes, it may be that the shape of my face, together with the small exit pupil and a slightly complicated optical box make this model not for me, these days I have been using a Monarch HG 10x42 and it works perfectly without any type of blackout, it is as sharp and contrasted on axis as the NL and much better with glare, the off-axis CA control is not as good as the NL but I can live with this, I think I will sell the NL and keep the 2 Nikons, the Monarch 7 and the HG.

 

[NatureLover123]

Yes, it may be that the shape of my face, together with the small exit pupil and a slightly complicated optical box make this model not for me, these days I have been using a Monarch HG 10x42 and it works perfectly without any type of blackout, it is as sharp and contrasted on axis as the NL and much better with glare, the off-axis CA control is not as good as the NL but I can live with this, I think I will sell the NL and keep the 2 Nikons, the Monarch 7 and the HG.

If the circle that appears is black or fades a bit to black, when it’s not mild brighter, then you are too close for the sweet spot, not too far away.

It‘s a pity that you don’t enjoy this great glass.

 

[NatureLover123]

And you cannot blame the 32, that you don’t have these issues with the 42. The 42 is another class of glass. The one is an apple and the second is an orange.

 

[Owlbarred]

Good afternoon, sorry for the delay in replying, I have been sick with the flu and have not been able to test the binoculars properly.
Using the FHR has improved the blackouts considerably but they have not disappeared completely and I have a theory about this:

In other binoculars when you move your eyes away from the eyepiece you lose field of vision but the image is still relatively clear, in the nl 10x32 what I see when I move my eyes away is like image 1 (a circle appears inside the image, not on the edges) that I posted previously and that I have seen in some posts on the cloudynights forum as SAEP and that also appears in astronomical eyepieces.

Could this be the downside of getting such a wide and well-corrected field? I repeat, sorry for my English, I was helped by Google translator.

Glad it helped. You’re on the right track, but see Addition below for further info.

But first, again, Step 1: Be sure to have both the Forehead Rest (FR) and eyecups turned fully inward and then micro-adjust the eyecups outward as needed until your view is devoid of blackouts. Again, I do not wear glasses and what works best for me is setting the eyecups fully inward using only the FR for support.

(The following is a bit like trying to tell someone how to ride a bike -- a simple task (that is difficult to explain) but once done is effortless to rapidly replicate time after time.

Addition: (Note, again, the binoculars are supported only by the forehead rest (FR).
The outer part of the FR swivels and that is the key to a nearly instantaneous blackout removal for 10x32 NL. With Step 1 preset 14 days ago, now whenever I see a bird, I merely need to rest the binoculars solely on the FR, and align the binoculars (takes a millisecond) until the blackouts (kidney beans) disappear. With a little practice, it's as 'quick as lightning' (well almost) and becomes as 'automatic and second-nature' as walking. And provides a steady view!!!

Give yourself some time to find your own 'sweet spot' re: Step 1 and then just practice a bit. It tames the beast. The 10x32 NL won't replace my 8x42 NL (or 8x32 SV), but it's now a joy to use -- a lightweight, effective tool, especially for scanning large open areas.