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D200 - Poor quality pics (2 Viewers)

MarkHows

Mostly Mammals
I have just purchased a second hand D200, 11,000 shutter actions.

I have tried it with my two lenses the Sigma 170-500 and a Tamron 28-300 but cannot get sharp images even in very good light, tried it on a tripod as well.

The lenses are fine as they both perform very well with my D70s which is currently with Nikon for repair (power switch) so unrelated.

Am I missing something or could there be a problem, appreciate any help, I am using it with similar settings to my D70s.

I can post some images if needed somewhere, I shoot in RAW.

Thanks

Mark
 
Mark the D200 is far more complex than the D70s (I did the same upgrade), what focusing settings are you using? Stick to single point and fire a few test shots at something in the garden, post these with the exif info in your response
 
I agree with Steve. You may need to set the AF differently. Don't know what AF system the D70s may have but the D200 has the same one as the D90. For that, like Steve said, try using one AF sensor. I do this on the D90. I don't know if the D200 would also have the dynamic AF area to select 11 which would be assist points but I do that too.

Yes show us some test shots when you get it going.
 
D200

Hi Mark,

I have had a D200 for some time and like it a lot, one of the problems that I find and it is annoying, I keep inadvertantly catching the focus mode switch that is marked (C) continuous (S) single,auto-focus and (M) manual. I keep knocking it onto Continuous and wonder why my pics are out of focus, just make sure it is set to (S), hope this helps.

Ian.
 
Hi Mark,

I have had a D200 for some time and like it a lot, one of the problems that I find and it is annoying, I keep inadvertantly catching the focus mode switch that is marked (C) continuous (S) single,auto-focus and (M) manual. I keep knocking it onto Continuous and wonder why my pics are out of focus, just make sure it is set to (S), hope this helps.

Ian.

Unless the subject is not moving I would always use C, come to think of it I always leave it on C unless I go to M.
One thing to check is whether you've set the shutter only to fire if the subject has focus lock, you can tell it to ignore focus and fire anyway (higher fps rate, less accuracy), without seeing the images and data its hard to say. Check when you take a shot where the focus point was.

Looking forward to a response
 
Many thanks for the suggestions, I think I have the camera set up as suggested


So the settings I am using

Focus area frame - Normal Frame 11 areas
Focus Area On
Lock On Normal
Group dynamic AF Pattern 1 center area
I am shooting in the S mode for focus
in Aperture priority



The both photos were taken on a tripod to eliminate my movement using different lenses, different ISO and apertures


1st Photo - 11.jpg


Exposure
Aperture: F/10
Shutter Speed: 1/100s
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Exposure Comp.: -0.7EV
Exposure Tuning:
Metering: Matrix
ISO Sensitivity: ISO 100
Camera Info
Device: Nikon D200
Lens: 28-300mm F/3.5-6.3D
Focal Length: 300mm
Focus Mode: AF-S
AF-Area Mode: Single
VR:
AF Fine Tune:



Photo 2 - 15.jpg

Exposure
Aperture: F/6.3
Shutter Speed: 1/80s
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Exposure Comp.: -0.7EV
Exposure Tuning:
Metering: Matrix
ISO Sensitivity: ISO 200
Camera Info
Device: Nikon D200
Lens: 170-500mm F/5-6.3D
Focal Length: 500mm
Focus Mode: AF-S
AF-Area Mode: Single
VR:
AF Fine Tune:

Any help appreciated

Thanks

Mark
 

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Unless the subject is not moving I would always use C, come to think of it I always leave it on C unless I go to M.
One thing to check is whether you've set the shutter only to fire if the subject has focus lock, you can tell it to ignore focus and fire anyway (higher fps rate, less accuracy), without seeing the images and data its hard to say. Check when you take a shot where the focus point was.

Looking forward to a response
Exactly! This is precisely how I set my AF as well and the same reason why I would change it. Steve (Duke) has always given great advice.
 
Many thanks for the suggestions, I think I have the camera set up as suggested


So the settings I am using

Focus area frame - Normal Frame 11 areas
Focus Area On
Lock On Normal
Group dynamic AF Pattern 1 center area
I am shooting in the S mode for focus
in Aperture priority



The both photos were taken on a tripod to eliminate my movement using different lenses, different ISO and apertures


1st Photo - 11.jpg


Exposure
Aperture: F/10
Shutter Speed: 1/100s
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Exposure Comp.: -0.7EV
Exposure Tuning:
Metering: Matrix
ISO Sensitivity: ISO 100
Camera Info
Device: Nikon D200
Lens: 28-300mm F/3.5-6.3D
Focal Length: 300mm
Focus Mode: AF-S
AF-Area Mode: Single
VR:
AF Fine Tune:



Photo 2 - 15.jpg

Exposure
Aperture: F/6.3
Shutter Speed: 1/80s
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Exposure Comp.: -0.7EV
Exposure Tuning:
Metering: Matrix
ISO Sensitivity: ISO 200
Camera Info
Device: Nikon D200
Lens: 170-500mm F/5-6.3D
Focal Length: 500mm
Focus Mode: AF-S
AF-Area Mode: Single
VR:
AF Fine Tune:

Any help appreciated

Thanks

Mark

In the 1st shot, I would try setting the ISO a bit higher, perhaps 400 or if you set in 3rds like I do, 500. IMO, 500 is a good all around ISO between cameras. This will allow you to shoot at a higher shutter speed which could help you with some sharpness. Looking at your lenses aperture range, it looks like it may be Sigma, so smaller apertures are often needed for good sharpness. You could still attempt to set it to F8 and you might be fine.

In the second shot, I would again encourage you to try using a higher ISO for higher shutter speeds. In this shot, I can also see that you've pushed your lens to it's extremes. Lenses such as this often get soft at the max focal length and wide open aperture ( relatively speaking or course). I would have perhaps stopped down the aperture to at least F8. Also, I can see in both shots that you've stopped the the exp. comp. down slightly. The D200 has a very good meter and with a lens like this, you may want to try to set the exp. comp. to 0.0 or perhaps even +0.3. Just to try a few things out.

I'm sure Duke and a few others can give you more advice on things I've overlooked here.
 
Not to put a dampener on things but I had the same problem on my D200 last year. The focusing had played up a couple of times since I had bought the camera new about 14 months before and I thought it was just me. I ended up sitting in the garden taking pictures of the same flower trying every possible setting... but unfortunately to no avail. The camera went back under guarantee, they changed a chip and its been as right as rain since. Hopefully this isn't the case with yours Mark.
Colin.
 
I'm with Gentoo, try a few shots that are not at the max focal length or better still try a fixed fl lens if poss, if you shoot in raw are these images post production jpegs, if so what did you adjust? If using max fl the dof at that distance will be very shallow, where is the focus point on these images, assume dead centre.
 
I'm with Gentoo, try a few shots that are not at the max focal length or better still try a fixed fl lens if poss, if you shoot in raw are these images post production jpegs, if so what did you adjust? If using max fl the dof at that distance will be very shallow, where is the focus point on these images, assume dead centre.


The focus was dead centre, I altered nothing except the brightness in photoshop.

I will try a few more and post them

Thanks

Mark
 
Unless the subject is not moving I would always use C, come to think of it I always leave it on C unless I go to M.
One thing to check is whether you've set the shutter only to fire if the subject has focus lock, you can tell it to ignore focus and fire anyway (higher fps rate, less accuracy), without seeing the images and data its hard to say. Check when you take a shot where the focus point was.

Looking forward to a response

Hi Steve,

this sounds very interesting and something I will certainly be trying out, thanks for the advice.

Ian
 
Hi Mark,

Suggestions from others seem sound, but I wonder whether exposure duration may also be having an effect? Although on a tripod, 1/80 at 500mm sounds a bit slow to me; any minor vibration could be being picked up. I would try taking a series of shots at different shutter speeds by changing aperture or ISO settings to see if this gives any benefit. Just a thought.

Kevin
 
Mark,
Some good advice already. I have the old model 170-500 which I've used on the D100 , D2x and D3. All in Continuous, at least iso 400, f8, and no more than 400 mm (unless the subject is close in good light and stationary ). If you have the new VR model , switch off the VR if on a tripod. I wouldn't use it anyway as I prefer to bump up the iso.
Neil.
 
Today's dslr cameras are made to take good pics in most scenarios out of the box, even for newbies. Whenever you suspect IQ issues are gear related, best to reset the camera to its default settings and shoot full AUTO with the subject well lit and just far enough to be outside the minimum focus distance of the lens, usually 2-5m distance. If you still have IQ issues then you know it is the camera.

Electronic devices fail and since you bought the camera well-used, you really can't know for sure if it wasn't abused.

Rick
 
Last edited:
When taking shots of flowers, I use a good DOF, at least f10 say, and also a low ISO - 200 is usual. I rarely use a tripod, but almost always use the flash if I can. From the shots posted, I would guess that the shutter speed is a bit low and there is some camera shake taking place. You could try the shutter release on a timer, or a remote shutter release.

Also if you suspect that the autofocus is playing up, try focusing manually and see how that goes. Manual focus should be no problem when the subject is large inside the viewfinder, and try using the DOF preview button to check the aperture setting.

I have a D80 and a D300 and I find them both indistinguishable for image quality at low ISO (basically ISO200).
 
I'd be suspecting the lenses. D70 is 6 MP, D200 is 10 MP. It requires better optics.
Try another lens - even a simple one like the 50mm /1.8 and see.
I'm not saying the lenses are bad, but you may need to fine tune the camera focusing system or replace the Sigma chip inside the lens.
It's a known fact that when you buy a new camera, an old Sigma lens should sometimes be rechipped.
I've shot with the D200 over 100,000 pictures with great results. I've sold almost all my 3rd party lenses and stick with Nikkors, even just for compatability.
 
OK, took a few shots this evening


File: _DSC0003.NEF
Date Created: 30/06/2009 22:23:22
Date Modified: 30/06/2009 17:47:16
File Size: 15.5 MB
Image Size: L (3872 x 2592)
File Info 2
Date Shot: 30/06/2009 17:47:07.32
World Time:
Image Quality: RAW (12-bit)
Artist:
Copyright:
Image Comment:
Camera Info
Device: Nikon D200
Lens: 170-500mm F/5-6.3D
Focal Length: 380mm
Focus Mode: AF-C
AF-Area Mode: Single
VR:
AF Fine Tune:
Exposure
Aperture: F/7.1
Shutter Speed: 1/1250s
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Exposure Comp.: -0.3EV
Exposure Tuning:
Metering: Spot
ISO Sensitivity: ISO 400
Flash
Flash Sync Mode:
Flash Mode:
Flash Exposure Comp.:
Colored Gel Filter:
Image Settings
White Balance: Auto, 0
Color Space: Adobe RGB
High ISO NR: ON (Normal)
Long Exposure NR: OFF
Active D-Lighting:
Image Authentication: OFF
Vignette Control:
Optimize Image
Optimize Image: Custom
Color Mode: Mode III (Adobe RGB)
Tone Comp.: Normal
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Normal
Sharpening: Medium high


File: _DSC0007.NEF
Date Created: 30/06/2009 22:23:33
Date Modified: 30/06/2009 17:55:48
File Size: 15.2 MB
Image Size: L (3872 x 2592)
File Info 2
Date Shot: 30/06/2009 17:55:46.00
World Time:
Image Quality: RAW (12-bit)
Artist:
Copyright:
Image Comment:
Camera Info
Device: Nikon D200
Lens: 170-500mm F/5-6.3D
Focal Length: 500mm
Focus Mode: AF-C
AF-Area Mode: Single
VR:
AF Fine Tune:
Exposure
Aperture: F/7.1
Shutter Speed: 1/800s
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Exposure Comp.: -0.3EV
Exposure Tuning:
Metering: Spot
ISO Sensitivity: ISO 400
Flash
Flash Sync Mode:
Flash Mode:
Flash Exposure Comp.:
Colored Gel Filter:
Image Settings
White Balance: Auto, 0
Color Space: Adobe RGB
High ISO NR: ON (Normal)
Long Exposure NR: OFF
Active D-Lighting:
Image Authentication: OFF
Vignette Control:
Optimize Image
Optimize Image: Custom
Color Mode: Mode III (Adobe RGB)
Tone Comp.: Normal
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Normal
Sharpening: Medium high



File: _DSC0010.NEF
Date Created: 30/06/2009 22:23:42
Date Modified: 30/06/2009 18:04:58
File Size: 15.3 MB
Image Size: L (3872 x 2592)
File Info 2
Date Shot: 30/06/2009 18:04:55.73
World Time:
Image Quality: RAW (12-bit)
Artist:
Copyright:
Image Comment:
Camera Info
Device: Nikon D200
Lens: 170-500mm F/5-6.3D
Focal Length: 500mm
Focus Mode: AF-C
AF-Area Mode: Single
VR:
AF Fine Tune:
Exposure
Aperture: F/6.3
Shutter Speed: 1/2000s
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Exposure Comp.: -0.3EV
Exposure Tuning:
Metering: Spot
ISO Sensitivity: ISO 400
Flash
Flash Sync Mode:
Flash Mode:
Flash Exposure Comp.:
Colored Gel Filter:
Image Settings
White Balance: Auto, 0
Color Space: Adobe RGB
High ISO NR: ON (Normal)
Long Exposure NR: OFF
Active D-Lighting:
Image Authentication: OFF
Vignette Control:
Optimize Image
Optimize Image: Custom
Color Mode: Mode III (Adobe RGB)
Tone Comp.: Normal
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Normal
Sharpening: Medium high



File: _DSC0015.NEF
Date Created: 30/06/2009 22:23:56
Date Modified: 30/06/2009 18:05:36
File Size: 15.4 MB
Image Size: L (3872 x 2592)
File Info 2
Date Shot: 30/06/2009 18:05:32.56
World Time:
Image Quality: RAW (12-bit)
Artist:
Copyright:
Image Comment:
Camera Info
Device: Nikon D200
Lens: 170-500mm F/5-6.3D
Focal Length: 240mm
Focus Mode: AF-C
AF-Area Mode: Single
VR:
AF Fine Tune:
Exposure
Aperture: F/6.3
Shutter Speed: 1/2500s
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Exposure Comp.: -0.3EV
Exposure Tuning:
Metering: Spot
ISO Sensitivity: ISO 400
Flash
Flash Sync Mode:
Flash Mode:
Flash Exposure Comp.:
Colored Gel Filter:
Image Settings
White Balance: Auto, 0
Color Space: Adobe RGB
High ISO NR: ON (Normal)
Long Exposure NR: OFF
Active D-Lighting:
Image Authentication: OFF
Vignette Control:
Optimize Image
Optimize Image: Custom
Color Mode: Mode III (Adobe RGB)
Tone Comp.: Normal
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Normal
Sharpening: Medium high


See what you think

And thanks again for all the help and advice

Mark
 

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It's very difficult to judge the images as they are resized. A 100% crop from the spot you think is sharp will be more helpful.
And BTW, you do not need to write down the exif info. If you save the images as "save as" and not "save for web", the exif data is retained. Any external exif reader such as Opanda or Kuso will show all the exif info with the right mouse button clicked on the image.
 
Mark

I really don't think you can use shots of this sort to test the quality of the camera or the lenses. All the subjects are liable to movement and with a very shallow depth of field they will be moving in and out of focus (unless you have enclosed the whole set up in a contraption to prevent air movement). I suggest you make the tests using a nicely textured brick wall as the subject.

Bill
 
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