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Best Equipment for bird watching centre (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Romausris
- Start date
RJM
Don't Worry, Be Happy!
Build you center 3/4 mile closer. Even with large binoculars at 100x power most birds will be only small dots. Moreover, there will be way too much atmosphere and mirage effects to get detailed bird images. Daytime observation is severely affected wind, temps, and dust. There are only a handfull of days when magnifications >60x can be used at distances >400m to give clear images.
alan_rymer
Well-known member
If its a fixed location that you are watching eg Peregrine nest, see if you can set up a remote controlled camera!
Kevin Purcell
Well-known member
Just doing the math you can see the problem.
1 mile ~ 5000 feet ~ 1600m
For typical scope magnification say 30x that only brings the birds to 160 feet or 50m (as seen by the naked eye). That's not that close but perhaps enough for shape and pattern IDs.
Even going to the maximum 60x (not good a lot of the time as RJM points out due to convection) that's like seeing a bird at 80 feet or 25m through a disturbed atmosphere. Is that detailed enough?
I don't think optics are going to fix this problem for detailed observation. The trick is to get closer.
Remote cameras would work.
1 mile ~ 5000 feet ~ 1600m
For typical scope magnification say 30x that only brings the birds to 160 feet or 50m (as seen by the naked eye). That's not that close but perhaps enough for shape and pattern IDs.
Even going to the maximum 60x (not good a lot of the time as RJM points out due to convection) that's like seeing a bird at 80 feet or 25m through a disturbed atmosphere. Is that detailed enough?
I don't think optics are going to fix this problem for detailed observation. The trick is to get closer.
Remote cameras would work.
woodhornbirder
Well-known member
Even going to the maximum 60x
or maybe use a differnt scope design.?
http://www.harrisontelescopes.co.uk...aksutov_Cassegrain_Optical_Tube_Assembly.html
will get you over 100x, keeping it rigid will then be ur problem.
or maybe use a differnt scope design.?
http://www.harrisontelescopes.co.uk...aksutov_Cassegrain_Optical_Tube_Assembly.html
will get you over 100x, keeping it rigid will then be ur problem.
RJM and Kevin's point is that magnification can only help if the view is clear.
If the air is unsteady, because of heat or humidity, nothing helps. More magnification simply makes bigger blurs.
Getting closer to reduce the length of air between your bird and your optics is the only solution that works,
If the air is unsteady, because of heat or humidity, nothing helps. More magnification simply makes bigger blurs.
Getting closer to reduce the length of air between your bird and your optics is the only solution that works,
woodhornbirder
Well-known member
"because of heat or humidity"
ahh yes, I forgot about heat. Being in uk and sunshine deprived, this is rarely a problem!
DEaling with the wet/windy and avoiding hyperthermia is more what i am used to coping with )
ahh yes, I forgot about heat. Being in uk and sunshine deprived, this is rarely a problem!
DEaling with the wet/windy and avoiding hyperthermia is more what i am used to coping with )
Marmot
Well-known member
I think what you also need to take into consideration is the direction it is facing in and what times the sun would be a hinderence to watchers/photographers.
Another thing is the seating as some have it too high, too low, fixed, too narrow...It should be a comfortable height for all...and not forgetting that you may have wheelchair users in the hide as well.
Another thing is the seating as some have it too high, too low, fixed, too narrow...It should be a comfortable height for all...and not forgetting that you may have wheelchair users in the hide as well.
Kevin Purcell
Well-known member
With convection (that causes the heat "boil") it doesn't have to be "cracking the flags hot" you just need direct sun (OK, that's not so common in the UK) and the ground to warm that will then warm the air. You can even get this in winter on sunny days.
The real problem is you are too far away from the interesting stuff even when you don't have a lot of convection so they will be small even at 60x (when the scopes are starting to get a bit too dim).
The real problem is you are too far away from the interesting stuff even when you don't have a lot of convection so they will be small even at 60x (when the scopes are starting to get a bit too dim).
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