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Bearly Believable – Birding Bolivia (2 Viewers)

Rocky then pointed out a hummingbird perched on a branch above us: White-bellied Hummingbird he said – new and once I got onto it (not that easy to spot a small still bird against the strong light), very quickly into the can with the camera.

Making our way over the small ridge we could then see the path continuing to wind among fallen boulders generally long the cliff face before splitting, one half heading right and perhaps down into the forest (I thought hopefully) while the left arm struck up towards another switchback peak at a point where the cliff turned a corner away from us: it was clear that at the top of that path would be a serious drop-off. Guess which one we followed….

That’s right. The left path was broader but the vegetation around it was lower and something about its upward sweep made me feel a bit vulnerable though if the same geography had been in the South Downs I would have been blithely unconcerned. In addition, of course, once your fears have been activated by one incident the activation level for the next one is very much lower and I was now primed to react badly to almost anything that made me worry about falling.

At the top of what turned out to be just a spur path was a mirador with a log bench at the near end overlooking the path dropping away back whence we had come, and a well-trodden red earth platform with a plank bench overlooking a very steep drop to the canopy of the forest. Very uncomfortable with the feeling of a drop all round me (except where the cliff towered above us at the base of the tiny ridge on which we stood) I crept uneasily to the bench and plonked my backside on it. I didn’t feel much better but knew I couldn’t fall off anything there.

One of the other two pointed out a Cliff Flycatcher hunting from a branch projecting from the cliff a little way above us: not so far as to make the horizon reel from looking up which by now was almost as bad as looking down. Concentrating on getting photos distracted me from our situation and I looked around for other possible targets: I also remembered the phone in my pocket and used it to photograph the approach path and peaks beyond: across the valley Rocky found and directed us to a couple of Military Macaws perched up and I took a couple of very long range shots of them.

The afternoon was progressing and it seemed the macaws made roosting flights early, with pairs and small flocks coming past us at varying distances quite frequently. As my equanimity returned I managed to stand up and follow some of them with the camera and get one or two acceptable pictures of the big parrots in flight in the sunshine, including the odd topside! Speaking of pairs it really was very noticeable how pairs of Military Macaws stuck closely together as they moved around their territories: typically only a few feet separated them at any time.

Eventually we returned down the spur track and turned onto the return part of the Loro Trail. Only it seemed there were still two options, one of which continued to another mirador while the other headed more immediately downwards into the forested stream valley. I chose down and Steve kindly assented.

The day wasn’t quite finished because in the depths of the valley, with what little light remained beginning to fade in the late afternoon, we had a good view but no chance of pictures of a Brown Tinamou firtling about in the streambed before stalking off into the undergrowth; and a Slaty Gnateater brought in by more playback to yield views.

Dinner was a tray-baked pizza and loads of wonderful vegetables both cooked and salad – we judged the hygiene was Western-standard and waded in after days in Santa Cruz of (admittedly very nice) menus with mainly carb-based meals lacking greens. We had no digestive emergencies throughout the trip, though the Imodium was always at hand in case of disaster.

Spotlighting the lawns and forest edge on the way back to the accommodation after going through the log we had our first Crab-eating Fox of the trip (my first ever of course). A very satisfying end to a good day, with much promise for the rest of this episode of the trip.

John

White-bellied Hummingbird
Bromeliads
Military Macaws perched
Cliff Flycatcher

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Congrats on the Brown Tinamou. We heard it many times at several sites, but never got a glimpse.

I'm jealous of the sunny weather. We had a lot of rain at Los Volcanes. The pictures of the view are much nicer with sun and not fog :p . Although it did wash all the smoke out of the air.

And a picture for you of Chachi the cat. She was actually a real sweetheart.

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We reached a slightly better place to stop and look, with a window in the tree canopy outwards and upwards towards the cliffs now looking much closer above us on the far side of the valley. A large black silhouette glided above the void and I asked Steve “What’s the vulture?” before getting my bins settled on it and realizing there was a white ruff at the base of its naked neck: “Condor!” was my answer to my own question and I gazed enthralled at the gigantic scavenger wheeling above us. With my own fear of heights having caused Steve to leave the high Andes off the itinerary I’d hoped but not been sure that the Refugio’s list stating “Uncommon and irregular, mostly in dry season” meant we were in with a shout for the absolutely iconic Andean Condor. Key target for me and megatick - woohoo!
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Loving the report so far John, especially this section which reminded me of the feelings I had seeing my lifer California Condor just over a year ago.
 
12 August: Sure you used enough exposure comp there, Butch?

First thing in the morning I found a flock of quite large birds in a flowering tree up one of the hills viewable from outside our room and Steve identified them as Blue-throated Piping Guans. He commented that they are quite cool-looking and we needed – and should get – better views in due course to really appreciate them. Purplish and Plush-crested Jays were on morning patrols scouring the Refugio clearing edge and a House Wren showed quite well in a nearby tree.

After breakfast Rocky met us and despite pleas for a bear hunt we ended up on an obviously pre-planned walk on a different trail that generally followed the river that ran past the Refugio with side trips into various bits of forest: all at low level, hardly any climbing on slopes and nowhere near where we’d been the day before. In a huddle while Rocky checked out something we agreed this was not our idea of customer service (although I was knocking out new birds at quite a rate).

Before that he had taken us on another circuit of the Refugio clearing during which we encountered a Yellow-olive Flatbill, Giant Cowbird and overhead a flock of about a dozen Andean Swifts that swept through calling but kept going.

Once into the walk proper we almost immediately encountered another thrilling new bird for me, a Sunbittern that quickly flushed from where it was foraging along the river’s edge but luckily landed not far upstream allowing me an open-wing shot and then some indifferent snaps of it walking along. The not-so-great photos didn’t take away anything from seeing a spectacular bird well at close range.

An even briefer encounter gave us Black-chested Buzzard-eagle with no pix and only just sufficient bins views to confirm the ID: sometimes you just have to take what you get. You can hope for another encounter later in the trip but sometimes that just doesn’t happen and unfortunately that turned out to be the case with this bird. While we paused in the clearing that had given us the flight view, a couple of Condors wheeled round overhead. Nice.

A Mitred Parakeet sat directly overhead eventually moving its head from behind the broken twig blocking it and giving good views. However, it was an example of the one issue with this morning’s birds: an awful lot of them were straight up, often underneath the canopy in the shade and always with bright sunlit sky beyond: I was kept busy dialling exposure comp in and out. Which I don’t practice enough so I occasionally whizzed the shutter speed dial round instead of the one I wanted….. the view through the electronic viewfinder gave me an immediate sense of having done something wrong which was very useful.

A Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner provided not only this issue but also that of focusing on small birds in among a lot of twigs and leaves, often with multiple layers in the way. A Sepia-capped Flycatcher escaped the lens for precisely this reason after giving reasonable bins views and a Black-goggled Tanager – which I really wanted a picture of – was just too quick especially given the difficulties. Latest in a line of Ocellated Woodcreepers sat up on a treetrunk while a Slate-throated Redstart just about yielded an identifiable picture, once again after the festures had been properly observed with bins.

Some of the birds were in the lower storeys of leafery, down to ground level, and with these just getting enough light to take pictures could be a challenge. Western Fire-eye escaped due to the camera just giving up on locking on but Olivaceous Woodcreeper on another open treetrunk was not so difficult (we saw a few more of these during the trip as well) while a Plain Antvireo got clean away without being clicked at (but was captured on a subsequent walk, aha!)

A quick word about Woodcreepers: to a South American tyro like me some pages of field guides can look immensely boring, a parade of almost identical birds often with few identifying or exciting features. Woodcreepers on first glance seem to be in this category but in practice in the field they turned out to be quite visible, interesting and distinctive birds – which probably means I missed all sorts of subtleties but meant I enjoyed them much more than I had expected to.

We got into a feeding flock and birds whirled past on every side and at every height. Rocky was calling the identifications quickly, enabling us to switch onto birds we actually needed and not those we’d already seen. Guira Tanager even allowed a few quick snaps in sunlight while a Slaty-capped Flycatcher also sat up. Sclater’s Tyrannulet did not, nor did Chestnut-eared Aracari a bit later although the pair moving loosely together through the woodland did give brief full views that I enjoyed.

Back at the riverbank Steve found a pair of Riverbank Warblers foraging in beached leaf-litter that gave us nice views for as long as we wished before the rather plain Palm Tanager and dagger-billed Streaked Xenops rounded out a bird-filled morning walk.

John

Beetle sp
Slaty-capped Flycatcher this time...
Slate-throated Redstart
Guira Tanager X 2

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After lunch as we met up again with Rocky I was facing the fact that my left ankle, which is inclined to give trouble occasionally but which I’d caused to flare up in a stupid accident the day before the start of the trip, was hurting enough to prevent me doing the uphill Loro Trail that afternoon to look for Spectacled Bear. Rather than hamper Steve I decided it would do me good to have an afternoon off, upload pictures via my tablet to a portable hard disk for safety’s sake, wash my long hair (doesn’t need doing very often but when its due it does let me know) and let him have a run off the lead with Rocky.

The other two headed off and I headed for our room to start the camera file transfer, which takes some time.

The next bit is definitely Steve’s tale and I’ll let him tell it his own way.

John
 
Hope the ankle is feeling better soon John
It's been a bit unreliable ever since I tried to jump on a mate's back during a drunken night in Manchester at the tender age of 19 and missed. It turns over readily and occasionally won't hold my weight causing a lurch to the left. That said I've trained for and run half-marathons and done sprint triathlons on it!

When I jumped across a small rivulet almost at the crag roost of the last Lammergeier I disturbed it and the walk back took four hours, arriving at the car moving like a dothery old man shuffling across his kitchen in tartan slippers. It was a year and a half before I could walk normally, pain free. Since then it had been fine - until I had to compete with a six-year old at jumping over the tip of a felled Leylandii the day before flying to Bolivia.....

It's fine at the moment.

John
 
11 August: You crazy – the fall will probably kill you!



The local long-haired domestic cat checked out the new arrivals and ignored our suggestion that it should go somewhere else. We soon afterwards found it playing with a lizard that was skidding about on the tiled outdoor area and no doubt annoyed it by shooing it away and removing the lizard to a safer place out on the lawn.
The lizard was a giant ameiva.

I may have missed it, as this is quick break from work and trying to sort a trip to Mongolia, but I don't think John mentioned that shortly after arrival I was chatting to a bloke who casually said, "If you don't mind getting up early, you can see bears." I stood there for a minute, wondering if I'd totally imagined what he'd said.
"Erm.... could you repeat that please?"
He did at which point my brain cared about one thing, and one thing only, and I suspect all conversation afterwards was interlaced with expletives. Such as ***k the early morning: we are trying this afternoon."
And when we met Rocky my conversation was all about los osos and emphasing that everything else was secondary.
 

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So a quick summary of the afternoon.
We still seemed to be going the wrong direction, but I didn’t trust my sense of direction and at least we seemed to be in an area where I could imagine seeing bears. After a while Rocky met another guide and a couple of tourists. It was clear they’d had a sighting! A fairly rapid walk/trot ensued. The thin ledge was rather worrying when you don’t know where bears are! Before long we were watching a young ANDEAN BEAR at less than 10m range. Superb. Sadly I didn’t get to see an adult but a fantastic experience and I thought I'd make up for that on another day. John was clearly going to be looking for them and. although part of me did think it would be a good excuse to be able to go off without a guide, my desire to see an adult trumped my desire to do unguided birding. Even Rocky said he was shaking - it was only his second sighting. Rocky was clearly excited as he then spent the time on his phone - probably telling people and didn’t notice the NINE-BANDED ARMADILLO that he nearly walked into. Luckily I did! The day was now even more amazing. It was right in front of us and dithered for some time before trotting off. Nine-banded armadillo is a wide-spread species but it was one I'd never connected with so amazingly I'd had three mammals ticks on a part of the trip that I thought there was no chance of any. The main 'attraction' was still to come and I was feeling very chuffed.

We then saw a thrush that Rocky admitted he had no real idea about. We pondered Merlin and an imm. ANDEAN SLATY THRUSH seemed the best bet. On return to the UK my research revealed something of a lack of information on this species, when not adult, but what there was matched as did the one person to offer an opinion. I am happy to have any opinions in this.

Video of the bear here.
 

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When Steve and Rocky returned I was having a wander round the Refugio clearing picking off pictures of some birds that I felt could be improved. Obviously they had to break the news which Steve did with a warning I was going to be severely gripped. Equally obviously I was, but against that I had to set the fact that every mammal we saw was new for me whereas Steve, who had set up the trip and was very much taking the lead on the ground, was only on for a few new mammals if he was lucky: so I was very glad for him while hopeful that over the next couple of days I could get it back.

While we discussed this Rocky spotted Channel-billed Toucan in the trees beyond the dining room and cookhouse and I got some quite long-distance images of this additional new bird. Rocky pointed out Blue-headed Parrots flying to roost overhead but we’d both seen orange flashes on the wings and some work with the field guide a little later proved to us we’d been looking at Turquoise-fronted Parrots and not Blue-headed. Moral: always confirm your own sightings and don’t just take the guide’s word for it no matter how good they are or you think they are. Rocky went off to his evening activities but Steve was keen to do a dusk walk up the entrance track and it was apparent that part of this was getting away from the idea of calling in every bird with playback – and maybe from people too – so since my ankle wasn’t yet under control pain-wise I decided not to accompany him, just warned him not to get eaten. He returned a while later having got great views of Short-tailed Ant-thrush in the open on the track just by normal birding: sneaking along quietly looking at anything that moved.

That concluded a remarkable day apart from dinner: the world’s toughest beef, sweetcorn with cream cheese, loads of veg. We called the log over a couple of beers and got an early night.

John

Chestnut-bellied Thrush
Two-banded Warbler X 3
Amazonian Motmot

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13 August: More Loro Ledge

First thing while waiting for breakfast to start Steve and I had a couple of Blue-headed Parrots fly past, presumably coming out of roost and heading off to their feeding areas. So they were in the area: but we saw a heck of a lot more Turquoise-fronted Parrots during our stay. Blue-headed were very much in the minority.

There wasn’t any argument from Rocky after breakfast (which was scrambled eggs, salami and cheese rather like mild Wensleydale) about where we were going and we wanted to get on the road before anyone else. My ankle was now well under control with the combined effect of paracetamol and ibuprofen so I was fit to set off up the hill. However it seemed Rocky still hadn’t really appreciated the importance of the Spectacled Bear (despite repeated insistence in Steve’s slow but understandable Spanish that our real mission was mammals and everything else was secondary to getting me that bear as well as him) and he not only kept stopping to try to attract some of the Loro track residents we hadn’t yet seen but not going as fast as I was now capable of doing. The result was that other groups caught us up and went past us on upwards, which we found really annoying despite picking up Moustached Wren on the way up.

Up at the base of the cliffs and in the bear area we were able to watch, some way below us in the canopy, White-winged Tanagers like unbent-billed Two-barred Crossbills and a male plus two females of Blue Dacnis which despite the distance glowed with colour, even the females which were an amazing and surprising intense bluish-green.

We spent some time working our way through the area below the cliffs, without finding the bears. Then we went up to the mirador (incidentally this morning I had no issues with crossing the narrow ledge at all, which perhaps surprised the other two and gratified me) where a Dusky-green Oropendola was foraging through the tops of the trees not far below us and very nice to see that well. It was one of those birds that just won’t quite pose the way you want but I managed to get something on it with my camera before it disappeared round a corner.

A Mitred Parakeet sat up on the branches that in the next few days proved popular with the smaller parrots (smaller than the Military Macaws that were again flying above us frequently, that is!) enabling me to get pictures of Turquoise-fronted Parrot and Steve’s nemesis the Yellow-chevroned Parakeet at the same place.

On the way back down we had a second view of the Brown Tinamou in the streambed but it once again eluded our cameras after giving us brief excellent bins views in the open.

Back at the Refugio there was a Black Phoebe flycatching from a variety of low perches including a tap in the middle of the lawns presumably for a sprinkler to keep the lawns in condition: they didn’t need mowing due to the constant presence of four horses cropping it to an even short length. Black Phoebe was familiar to me from North America and Steve had seen loads all over the Americas. Rocky warned us that the white-blazed chestnut, Ninja, had a tendency to kick, but I didn’t need the warning, I don’t like horses anyway. I suspect they can tell, animals are good at reading body language.

Before the afternoon session we had a fair bit of downtime which Steve used to catch up his photo-back-up and have a shower while I spent much of it taking pictures of the local birdlife in nice bright sunlight. While sitting about waiting for thrushes to come my way I kept an eye on the sky and was rewarded with a great view of a King Vulture circling overhead for several minutes and more distant views of Andean Condors, with occasional flashes of topside wing panels that proved impossible to capture with the camera but were enjoyable through bins.

Another bird that circled overhead, luckily rather lower than the huge vultures, was a Bat Falcon that gave me plenty of time to both watch it and photograph it. There are a couple of confusion species but we were not in range for either and in any case the views were decisively in favour of Bat Falcon. Very nice indeed!

John

Flock of Blue-throated Piping Guans in a heavily blossoming tree
Lineated Woodpecker
Plush-crested Jay
Turquoise-fronted Parrots high on a cliff
White-winged Tanager across the valley

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