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Bearly Believable – Birding Bolivia (4 Viewers)

Again my recollection is shaky but I think we left for an evening into night drive with a late dinner to be ready on our return. This second drive started in daylight and added to our experience yard-long Blue-and-Yellow Macaws, Speckled Chachalacas (Nicolas said they were Chaco but Hugo later said not at Jaguarland they aren’t, they are Speckled) and a couple of familiar migrant shorebirds from North America (and for that matter vagrants to Britain): Solitary Sandpiper and Greater Yellowlegs.

One particular bit of wetland seemed a magnet for Rufescent Tiger-Herons: not just today but every time we passed, multiple adults and juveniles launched themselves from the pools below our embanked roadway. Southern Screamers were another new shape to me as an embryonic South American birder: large and boldly patterned, often found as closely associating pairs. Another species we frequently saw as couples was Whistling Heron: by contrast the Black-collared Hawks sitting up over the channels were invariably on solo patrols, as were individuals of the next species to drop onto the list, the mighty Ringed Kingfisher.

Least Bitterns also leapt up from the river channels as we passed and the odd Striated Heron glanced up but returned to fishing. Why do these two behave differently?

As the light failed we switched from bins to spotlights and thermal imagers. A couple of hours roaming the tracks through reserve’s wetlands, woods and fields produced quirte a lot of Crab-eating Foxes including one that posed for pictures, a distant Marsh Deer and numerous male Scissor-tailed Nightjars, easily identifiable by their long split tails: for tonight we didn’t bother with trying to sort out what was evidently more than one species present.

Back at camp we encountered a massive toad that sat unconcernedly as cameras flashed around it (incidentally the order of photos on my camera confirms we had an evening drive and a short night drive with the toad between the two). We began to get into the habit of going through and closing doors after dark quickly so the insects attracted by lights wouldn’t get in. We were warned to always use torches moving around at night in case of snakes, scorpions and any other nasties that might be about (photos of e.g. Coral Snake in the camp area reinforced this, quite unnecessarily in my case at least!) Dinner was washed down with a couple of small cans of Bolivian beer – drinkable but when we agreed a couple of beers a night was OK we hadn’t realized they would be 330 ml cans or even smaller! We scooted through the log and turned in to be ready for an early start in the morning.

John

Blue-and-yellow Macaw X 2
Bolivian Red Howler Monkey
Jaguar tracks
Toad sp
Crab-eating Fox X 2


20240816 (16)_Blue-and_Yellow_Macaw.JPG20240816 (17)_Blue-and_Yellow_Macaw.JPG20240816 (19)_Bolivian_Red_Howler_Monkey.JPG20240816 (20)_Jaguar_tracks.JPG20240816 (21)_Toad_sp.JPG20240816 (22)_Crab-eating_Fox.JPG20240816 (25)_Crab-eating_Fox.JPG
 
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15 August: Back to Santa Cruz

After a round of finishing off photos of the common birds round the Refugio we headed up the Loro Trail again. It was still windy but not as bad as the last time: we spent a full hour scouring the canopy for perched Harpy Eagle and the cliffs and surrounding bushes for Spectacled Bears, without success on either count.

We enjoyed further views of Military Macaws and some good local birds like Red-necked Woodpecker and Mitred Parakeet, but returned to the Refugio for the last time without a major score. We enjoyed a good lunch and then clambered into the establishment’s 4WD bus for the ride to the top mirador to meet our driver back to Santa Cruz.

I was not too scared by the up-track drive, except when the driver stopped near the top for no apparent reason – I thought the bus had overheated or something – and showed Steve something on his phone: unfortunately Steve couldn’t follow his Spanish and only got the sense that there was a nest of something. Going down the far side with a different driver from our inward journey was also not scary: I was very happy to be back on main road though! The drive back to the city was not too bad with still no sign of any citizen protests blocking our way. So it was back to Room 107 at the Hotel 7 Calle, dinner at the El al Jibe and wine in our room before an early night.

John

Creamy-bellied Thrush
Chestnut-bellied Thrush
Purplish Jay
Mitred Parakeet
Loro Ledge
Refugio Room

View attachment 1608463View attachment 1608465View attachment 1608466View attachment 1608467View attachment 1608468View attachment 1608469
...Rufous-bellied thrush...
 
Again my recollection is shaky but I think we left for an evening into night drive with a late dinner to be ready on our return. This second drive started in daylight and added to our experience yard-long Blue-and-Yellow Macaws, Speckled Chachalacas (Nicolas said they were Chaco but Hugo later said not at Jaguarland they aren’t, they are Speckled) and a couple of familiar migrant shorebirds from North America (and for that matter vagrants to Britain): Solitary Sandpiper and Greater Yellowlegs.

One particular bit of wetland seemed a magnet for Rufescent Tiger-Herons: not just today but every time we passed, multiple adults and juveniles launched themselves from the pools below our embanked roadway. Southern Screamers were another new shape to me as an embryonic South American birder: large and boldly patterned, often found as closely associating pairs. Another species we frequently saw as couples was Whistling Heron: by contrast the Black-collared Hawks sitting up over the channels were invariably on solo patrols, as were individuals of the next species to drop onto the list, the mighty Ringed Kingfisher.

Least Bitterns also leapt up from the river channels as we passed and the odd Striated Heron glanced up but returned to fishing. Why do these two behave differently?

As the light failed we switched from bins to spotlights and thermal imagers. A couple of hours roaming the tracks through reserve’s wetlands, woods and fields produced quirte a lot of Crab-eating Foxes including one that posed for pictures, a distant Marsh Deer and numerous male Scissor-tailed Nightjars, easily identifiable by their long split tails: for tonight we didn’t bother with trying to sort out what was evidently more than one species present.

Back at camp we encountered a massive toad that sat unconcernedly as cameras flashed around it (incidentally the order of photos on my camera confirms we had an evening drive and a short night drive with the toad between the two). We began to get into the habit of going through and closing doors after dark quickly so the insects attracted by lights wouldn’t get in. We were warned to always use torches moving around at night in case of snakes, scorpions and any other nasties that might be about (photos of e.g. Coral Snake in the camp area reinforced this, quite unnecessarily in my case at least!) Dinner was washed down with a couple of small cans of Bolivian beer – drinkable but when we agreed a couple of beers a night was OK we hadn’t realized they would be 330 ml cans or even smaller! We scooted through the log and turned in to be ready for an early start in the morning.

John

Blue-and-yellow Macaw X 2
Bolivian Red Howler Monkey
Jaguar tracks
Toad sp
Crab-eating Fox X 2


View attachment 1608626View attachment 1608627View attachment 1608628View attachment 1608629View attachment 1608630View attachment 1608631View attachment 1608632
Toad looks like Rhinella (Bufo) marinus (cane toad) ono
 
17 August: Heat and Dust

Breakfast was before our first drive of the day (unusually) and the main event was eggs, poached in beans and tomatoes fried up into a beany sauce. Very nice. I’ve seen Indian variations of this as well. Mind you I love eggs, but after this holiday even I took a couple of days off.

An early start meant being in the car about an hour before daybreak so as to get the last of the real dark plus the growing light on the road looking for cats heading for their day-beds. So far as cameras were concerned this meant leaving the night rig set up overnight but being ready to remove flash, torch etc as soon as there was enough light for normal photography.

The vehicle was a 4WD with a very solid roof-rack that Nicolas occasionally went up to spot from as we went along. Steve also tried it at least once but the dry dusty tracks threw up enormous clouds that didn’t just trail behind us but seeped in through the open windows and absolutely covered anyone sitting on top. We were recovered from the colds we’d both had soon after arriving in Bolivia but at Jaguarland we developed persistent coughs that were mostly about the dust. It got everywhere, on lenses, on and in clothing, mouth (gritty, yeuch), nose, ears….

Early in the morning we sat inside the vehicle: it wasn’t cold but it wasn’t yet hot either. Later in the day it certainly was – Jaguarland was by some way the hottest phase of the trip. Our pre-dawn efforts yielded only more Crab-eating Foxes, but once the light came up we encountered a group of Chestnut-fronted Macaws for my first tick of the day. These were (relatively) small macaws, much bigger than the parrots we’d seen but not near the size of Blue-and-Yellow Macaws.

We photographed Roseate Spoonbills and some Blue-and-Yellow Macaws feeding on palm nuts before finding an Amazon Kingfisher sitting up on a dead branch on our side of a wide channel and not in a hurry to go anywhere: until we’d grabbed some pictures and waited for it to turn its head into a good pose neither were we. After a colourful sunrise we also got photos of Capybaras and ticked as well as photographing an adult Great Black Hawk sitting up close to the track and a Spix’s Guan perched on a leafy branch before disappearing into woodland.

Despite the size of the reserve and only two vehicles being in it we eventually encountered the Americans with their guide by the biggest wetland we’d seen the previous day, dotted with dead trees and crisscrossed with low bunds and chains of islands. In addition to the hordes of waterbirds of the species we’d been seeing there were Black Skimmers doing their thing with lower mandibles trawling the water surface ready to snap shut on any fish they encountered, White-tailed Kite briefly and Snail Kites everywhere, plus flocks of Black-bellied Whistling Ducks (tick) and a Black-necked Stilt.

Moving on we found a pair of Brazilian Teal hanging out by a small pool at the foot of the track’s embankment and stopped to grab some quick pix: we proceeded to see the same birds in the same place very day throughout our stay. I noted them down saying the name aloud as I wrote and mentioning to the open air that they were recognizable by the dark stripe down the middle: a couple of minutes later Steve’s brain caught up….

Stopping at a crossroads with views over a weed-covered channel so loaded with fish that the weeds heaved constantly, we had flyovers from macaws and also wild Muscovy Ducks! It was nice to be excited by these things for once – grisly farmyard things at home but small groups going over flying as powerfully as Eider. Hunting from small twigs above the channel a Black-backed Water Tyrant was also new but too quick and too inclined to perch behind more twiggage to let me get pictures on this occasion.

We moved on but soon came to another halt to look at two more large macaws: this time Red-and-Green, yard-long splashes of colour on exposed branches showing well.

After this we spent some time driving through open fields, a drier habitat even where crops were growing. We encountered monkeys traversing the fields between areas of woodland and the first one was a Black Spider Monkey halfway across a low broad-leaved crop. It wasn’t a great view (and certainly not typical Spider Monkey habitat!) but we got reasonable bins views and some record shots of it walking erect with tail held up. Although it was moving away from us it helpfully looked round to show its face.

A deep but dry irrigation ditch between field-edge hedges held a Marsh Deer a little closer than the last one and more record shots were taken: a Vermilion Flycatcher supplied eye-searing colour but only for a few seconds.

Lunch was an invasive river fish breadcrumbed and fried – ecotourism conservation action and quite tasty!

John

Chestnut-fronted Macaw
Whistling Heron
Amazon Kingfisher
Jaguarland Sunrise
Greater Capybara X 2
Great Black Hawk
Jaguarland typical view

20240817 (1)_Chestnut-fronted_Macaw.JPG20240817 (3)_Whistling_Heron.JPG20240817 (6)_Amazon_Kingfisher.JPG20240817 (7)_Jaguarland_Sunrise.JPG20240817 (8)_Greater_Capybara.JPG20240817 (10)_Greater_Capybara.JPG20240817 (12)_Great_Black_Hawk.JPG20240817 (13)_Jaguarland.JPG
 
As we left camp after lunch there was a Black Vulture sitting at eye level on a fence by the track, so I asked to stop and photograph it. This seemed to surprise the guide and driver but they complied. I explained that I hadn’t got a decent picture of one and photos of birds were also a target of the trip notwithstanding that the main object was finding cats.

Then it was back to driving the tracks, through fields and woodlands, along embankments flanked by wetlands or water channels, hoping for a cat sighting. And we got one – an Ocelot! It wasn’t in all honesty much of a view but it was better than a couple that the guide had called but moved so fast we saw only a disappearing blur. This one I was prepared to tick.

We encountered a troop of about ten Azara’s Horned Capuchins strung out in a long line crossing a field as the Spider Monkey had been during the morning. They weren’t close but again it was interesting to see the behaviour including the fact that they moved on all fours but when stopped stood erect to get a better view of their surroundings.

At a very bare wetland of lakes and sand we saw a large group of turtles stacked like plates in a drying rack. They were there every day from quiet early in the morning so presumably fed at night. I wondered whether they would always be in the same order. Could be a PhD in researching it. Elsewhere, in a more jungly bit, we finally had really nice views of a Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture in flight, close to and with the light behind us so we could see every detail and so could our cameras.

The final field-crossing troop we saw was of South American Coatis, mostly dark but with at least one really russet individual among them.

It was during this afternoon’s drive that I realised that the ibises I was looking at weren’t the Green Ibis we’d ticked in Santa Cruz. They had pinkish/reddish skin on their faces and a quick look in the book revealed they were Bare-faced Ibis. I then had qualms about Green Ibis but quickly discovered I had pictures that definitely showed Green. Phew.

Dinner was pork belly which was as tender as you could want with the rind just stickily chewy. Great stuff.

On the night drive we majored on Nightjars and confirmed we were seeing Common Pauraques as well the easily identifiable Scissor-tailed. We also encountered a Great Potoo hunting from a vertical bare branch: it just sat there while we drove up and photographed it from as close as the vehicle could get! Mind you, so did the next one, and the next…. We didn’t bother after that. We had ten Crab-eating Foxes and another Marsh Deer as well.

Still waiting for the cat bonanza though….

John

Black Vulture
Large-billed Tern
Azara's Horned Capuchin X 2
Stacking Turtles
Nicolas and our vehicle

20240817 (49)_Black_Vulture.JPG20240817 (50)_Large-billed_Tern.JPG20240817 (53)_Azaras_Horned_Capuchin.JPG20240817 (54)_Azaras_Horned_Capuchin.JPG20240817 (56)_Stacking_Turtles.JPG20240817 (57)_Nicolas_and_our_vehicle.JPG
 
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Interested if you took your/a thermal imager John/Steve and how it performed.
We both took and used them. It was not the ideal habitat for them. In particularly the vegetation being thick and close to the car made things tricky. I swapped between the imager and a torch. Sometimes it about what your used to and not what is best in the right hands. In contrast, I used one almost constantly at night in Sri Lanka.
 

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