Olympus E-410 Disappointing (1 Viewer)

[erniehatt]

Have been trying out the E-410, but so far the results have been very disappointing. Connecting directly to the scope without the lens, and to the eyepiece also no lens, have produced very soft images. This happens even with adjusting the in camera sharpening up high. I have thought of camera shake but even setting the self timer to 12s doesn't improve matters, but it could still be the problem, it has been raining for the last few days, and I have been trying it out indoors, the shutter speeds are very low, so not good test conditions.
Has anyone any ideas on this, or has anyone using these models had the same problems. Ernie:C

 

[Jason Bugay Reyes]

hio erniehatt,

do u have samples with the olympus ?

 

[erniehatt]

hio erniehatt,

do u have samples with the olympus ?

Unfortunately, The ones I took I deleted, but as soon as this rain goes away, which it doesn't look promising for a few days yet, I will try again. Ernie

 

[Paul Corfield]

Not sure why you are getting poor results Ernie, especially with just connecting the camera to the scope. As you know I've used the ZS80 scope and then traded that in for my Skywatcher. Both scopes produce razor sharp images when used on their own with my Pentax/Samsung dslr. Also the shutter speeds are still up around 1/250 on a wet day or in the evening when the sun has just gone down and in the day they are around 1/1000 to 1/2000.

Can you post a photo of the camera connected to the scope so I can see how you've done it?

Trying to think what possible problems could be. Are all your connecting tubes good quality and painted matt black inside or internally baffled? Any internal reflections could cause problems. The Zenithstar is an easy scope to strip down so maybe check that front element is screwed up tight and that the internal baffles aren't loose. I used to do mine every couple of months as they always worked loose and that could affect the collmination of the scope and affect the image quality. As your weather has been bad are you photographing through glass windows as that will give soft images?

Apart from that I guess it must come down to the camera. I've seen photos from photographers using Pentax, Nikon and Canon dslr's with the Zenithstar and they all produce good results. When your weather improves be sure to post some images.

Connecting the camera to an eyepiece with no lens will pretty much guarantee poor results. It takes a special kind of eyepiece to be able to do the eyepiece projection method.

Paul.

 

[ostling41]

You are using manual focus. How do you check for accuracy?

 

[Paul Corfield]

You are using manual focus. How do you check for accuracy?

When you manually focus the scope you see the image come in and out of focus through the cameras TTL viewfinder. If the image is sharp in the viewfinder then the photo will be sharp.

Paul.

 

[ostling41]

When you manually focus the scope you see the image come in and out of focus through the cameras TTL viewfinder.
Paul.

That's my point. Could be the bad results are due to poor eyesight. We don't know.

 

[Paul Corfield]

That's possible and it's something Ernie can test for. The way I do it with my dslr/scope is to put an automatic lens on the camera and let the camera focus on a chosen subject. Then I set the diopter adjustment for the viewfinder so that the subject is sharp to my eye. Then the camera is calibrated and will work fine with the scope.

Paul.

 

[JGobeil]

I do like Paul for focusing. I had poor results with a P&S because I had to focus on the LCD and there is no way to make sure the focus of the scope is right when wearing progressive glasses. With a DSLR it much easier since I don't need glasses and I get better results.

By the way, my Nikon P5100 is for sale, ready for digiscoping with all the goodies. See the Classified section.

 

[erniehatt]

Not sure why you are getting poor results Ernie, especially with just connecting the camera to the scope. As you know I've used the ZS80 scope and then traded that in for my Skywatcher. Both scopes produce razor sharp images when used on their own with my Pentax/Samsung dslr. Also the shutter speeds are still up around 1/250 on a wet day or in the evening when the sun has just gone down and in the day they are around 1/1000 to 1/2000.

Can you post a photo of the camera connected to the scope so I can see how you've done it?

Trying to think what possible problems could be. Are all your connecting tubes good quality and painted matt black inside or internally baffled? Any internal reflections could cause problems. The Zenithstar is an easy scope to strip down so maybe check that front element is screwed up tight and that the internal baffles aren't loose. I used to do mine every couple of months as they always worked loose and that could affect the collmination of the scope and affect the image quality. As your weather has been bad are you photographing through glass windows as that will give soft images?

Apart from that I guess it must come down to the camera. I've seen photos from photographers using Pentax, Nikon and Canon dslr's with the Zenithstar and they all produce good results. When your weather improves be sure to post some images.

Connecting the camera to an eyepiece with no lens will pretty much guarantee poor results. It takes a special kind of eyepiece to be able to do the eyepiece projection method.

Paul.

First up, I agree it could be the old eyes, but surely if that was the case there would be at least some small area close by in focus.
The surfaces are all blackened.
The lenses of the scope were slightly loose.
I have just finished my shade magnifier so will test that out on the live view.
Attached the connections
I will pop off and try it out see you Shortly

 

[erniehatt]

Well as you will see from the image, I have managed to get some semblance fof ocus, but the DOF is so narrow it could cause a problem. this was on the wall but leaning out at the top.
I tried a couple through the window, (not a real good test) but found focus to be very difficult,have to wait for fine weather.
Couldn't determine the cause of the initial problem, as I changed a number of setting in camera as well as use the screen shade and magnifier. Ernie

 

[wings]

I would think that the right-angled finder adds another dimension to variables which could affect focus. My guess is that MF is a little dicey here, and you should experiment with Paul's suggestion.

 

[erniehatt]

The viewfinder does give me a magnified view and a much better diopter setting, that said it could be taking something away.
And I do take what Paul says very seriously. Ernie

 

[Paul Corfield]

Was the photo you posted taken through a window? To my eye it looks more than just a depth of focus issue. A good test to do will be to set the scope up so it's square to a nearby wall and take a photo of it. This will show up any possible optical problems and we can go from there.

The actual set up of the camera to the scope looks fine so no problems there.

Paul.

 

[JGobeil]

Ernie,

I have had serious focus problems and here is how I solved it.

First, I strongly suggest you try each component separately for focus.

How is the camera alone, without the scope and the right-angle finder ? Does it focus properly ? Then try it with the right-angle finder, no scope. Still OK ?

Then try the scope with an eyepiece. Focus OK ?

If both are ok, then the equipment is not at fault. It must be a procedure problem. Use only the T2, no extension tubes.

Next, make sure your connection between scope and camera is square and solid.

Then, how is your support ? Tripod and head. Use as big a tripod as possible, no extension arm, and keep the tripod as low as possible. Make sure the tripod is attached solidly - same with the scope/head connection. The scope/camera should be balanced on the head - for this you may have to use a long lensplate (I found a 18 cm plate on eBAY)

Finally, use a remote shutter or the timer and mirror lock-up if available on your camera.

Finally, take your test shots outside with good light, where there is no wind. Use low ISO and as high a speed as possible. Photograph a sturdy target as close as possible but far enough to get good focus, set at a 45 degree angle and aim at the middle. Focus the scope extremely carefully.

Then look at your shots on the computer - they should be similar. If not, something is wrong with your setup or your procedure.

Part of the target should be in perfect focus, hopefully in the middle. If the focus is not in the middle, correct the diopter adjustment on the camera viewfinder until you get it right. You should then be in business.

This is how I solved my problem. It is not perfect and still needs work but I get acceptable results. At close range it is quite easy but for longer distances it is more difficult because of the large magnification.

Regards and best of luck with your tests.
Jules

 

[Paul Corfield]

Ernie,
If both are ok, then the equipment is not at fault. It must be a procedure problem. Use only the T2, no extension tubes.
Jules

The extension tubes will have to be used to achieve focus otherwise you don't get enough back travel from the scopes focuser and you wont be able to focus on anything. From previous talks with Ernie I'm guessing they were sourced on ebay and they look the same as the ones I got on ebay so they should be fine.

The Zenithstar scope is an air spaced doublet and it's possible for the two elements to shift out of perfect alignment. I don't think there is any option for the end user to adjust (collimate) the elements with the Zenithstar so I hope that isn't where the problem lies. At the moment I'd like to see a photo of a wall or fence taken square on just to see what edge to edge sharpness is like and if there's any unwanted distortion in odd places.

I'm hoping Ernie says that the photo was just taken through glass or double glazing and that's what's causing the strange focus.

Paul.

 

[JGobeil]

Paul, scope problems should be visible with an eyepiece, isn't ?

Can your Sky-Watcher scope be collimated if need be ? My local astronomy dealer has one at a good price and I am tempted...

 

[Paul Corfield]

Paul, scope problems should be visible with an eyepiece, isn't ?

Can your Sky-Watcher scope be collimated if need be ? My local astronomy dealer has one at a good price and I am tempted...

Generally collimation issues show up when you look at things like fairly bright stars at high power. They will have big halos around them or the star will be elongated. Slight collimation issues wouldn't really show up with general use though and shouldn't cause any major visual problems.

My Skywatcher has a sealed lens cell that is factory collimated like Ernie's Zenithstar and they are assumed by the manufacturer to be permanently collimated . It's the much more expensive scopes that have the screws for adjustments to be made but saying that, the TeleVue's have to be returned to base to be collimated. For the money the Skywatcher is excellent optical quality and something that can be built on at a later date if needs be like changing the rack and pinion focuser for a nice 2 speed Crayford model for example.

Paul.

 

[Paul Corfield]

This is the sort of lens test I like to do. The photo below is the whole image resized to 800 pixels wide. With a good quality objective lens like that in the Skywatcher the image should be sharp from edge to edge. If it isn't then it could indicate a problem.

Paul.

 

[erniehatt]

This is the sort of lens test I like to do. The photo below is the whole image resized to 800 pixels wide. With a good quality objective lens like that in the Skywatcher the image should be sharp from edge to edge. If it isn't then it could indicate a problem.

Paul.

Thanks fella's for the good advice, the weather looks as though it could be on the turn, so will give these ideas a go either this afternoon or tomorrow.
Paul, the image has a plastic covering on it so that maybe what your seeing. Also it was leaning of the wall about an inch. Ernie