That is not true with the Nikon HG 8x42. It has a big 42mm aperture, but only weighs 23.5 oz. and is quite compact for a 42mm.Yes!! Everything is better with more aperture. Except of course the size & weight
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That is not true with the Nikon HG 8x42. It has a big 42mm aperture, but only weighs 23.5 oz. and is quite compact for a 42mm.Yes!! Everything is better with more aperture. Except of course the size & weight
Nah, a lot of birders have a 8x32 and a 10x42. It makes a good combination. The 8x32 for close in birding and the 10x42 for more distant shore birds. Plus, with the 10x42 you wouldn't necessarily have to use on a tripod and a 12x42 you would. A 10x42 is a more versatile binocular than a 12x42 because you can hold it steadier, it has a bigger FOV and better DOF.If you want to use a tripod anyway, you might want to get a scope instead of a 10x binocular. With a good scope you can watch the the people on the ships you're watching pick their noses ...
Seriously: Getting a 10x binocular when you already have a decent 8x32 makes no sense IMO. None whatsoever.
Hermann
Thanks for your advice, however, I have demoed a few scopes, both angled and straight, and I just can’t get on viewing through one eye, and even when I demoed the BTX, I found it wasn’t as ‘natural’ as using a good bino, so that’s why I want to stay with binos.If you want to use a tripod anyway, you might want to get a scope instead of a 10x binocular. With a good scope you can watch the the people on the ships you're watching pick their noses ...
Seriously: Getting a 10x binocular when you already have a decent 8x32 makes no sense IMO. None whatsoever.
Hermann
(Following the comments from Hermann)I currently own pair of NL Pure 8x32’s, which I use hand held, mainly for viewing shipping at distances of 0.5 to 1.5 miles.
I would now like to increase the magnification a little and, as I’m very impressed with the performance of my current NL’s, I’m considering to purchase either the NL Pure 10x42 or 10x52’s, which would mainly be used mounted on a tripod, but would also need to be fairly stable when hand held viewing for shorter periods.
Therefore, I would welcome comments/suggestions from users of these two binos, as to which they would go for, and why?
Many thanks,
Allan
Makes sense. But don't forget scopes need some time getting used to. Most people I know got used to them quite quickly, and they do show a heck of a lot more detail.Thanks for your advice, however, I have demoed a few scopes, both angled and straight, and I just can’t get on viewing through one eye, and even when I demoed the BTX, I found it wasn’t as ‘natural’ as using a good bino, so that’s why I want to stay with binos.
Great advice there @AllanG , I have recently bought the Canon 15x50 IS and it is a superb bit of kit. Although I have the 14x52 NL Pure fitted with the forehead rest and the winged eyecups, the stability afforded by the Canon is unbelievably effective.If you want to stick to binoculars, I'd definitely go for higher magnification, at least 12x, probably 14-15x. Such binoculars can still be used handheld in a pinch, especially if you can support your arms on something like a wall. On a tripod they work exceptionally well. Or get a stabilised pair.
Of course it's true. How much does the 8x30 MHG weigh and how much does the 8x42 MGH weighThat is not true with the Nikon HG 8x42. It has a big 42mm aperture, but only weighs 23.5 oz. and is quite compact for a 42mm.
You missed my point. My point is the Nikon HG 8x42 is the lightest 42mm binoculars in its class. I don't know of any other 42mm binoculars that weigh only 23.5 oz. The Swarovski NL 8x32 with only a 32mm aperture weighs almost as much at 22.8 oz. Also, the Nikon HG 8x30 at 15.8 oz. is one of the lightest binoculars in the 30mm class, with even the Zeiss SFL 8x30 being heavier at 16.2 oz. Both Nikon HG's the HG 8x42 and the HG 8x30 are very compact and light for their aperture.Of course it's true. How much does the 8x30 MHG weigh and how much does the 8x42 MGH weigh
Your comment on the BTX is because it's angled?...and even when I demoed the BTX, I found it wasn’t as ‘natural’ as using a good bino, so that’s why I want to stay with binos.
Yes, I demoed an angled BTX, but still found it harder to focus on an object than a bino…..I think part of the problem is the different way to focus a scope, which doesn’t feel as natural to do as on a bino.Your comment on the BTX is because it's angled?
Having a 7x binocular, going to sell the 8x binocular, and going to use the new binocular on a tripod, I would go for the 14x52... But this comes from a person that used 15x56 binoculars for many years and is using now a 18x50 IS binocular...![]()
Give us some insight about that 18x50 IS.Your comment on the BTX is because it's angled?
Having a 7x binocular, going to sell the 8x binocular, and going to use the new binocular on a tripod, I would go for the 14x52... But this comes from a person that used 15x56 binoculars for many years and is using now a 18x50 IS binocular...![]()
Ok, I thought you would prefer a BTX straight version that would zoom, as I do...Yes, I demoed an angled BTX, but still found it harder to focus on an object than a bino…..I think part of the problem is the different way to focus a scope, which doesn’t feel as natural to do as on a bino.
Yes, is the Canon. I still didn't wrote a real test text but you can read my opinion about its use at the end of the 15x56 test text.Give us some insight about that 18x50 IS.
Guess this is the one you are talking; Canon 18x50 IS All Weather - Image Stabilisation Binoculars
View attachment 1630544
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Yes, is the Canon. I still didn't wrote a real test text but you can read my opinion about its use at the end of the 15x56 test text.
I see this special "pop" in SLC 10x56 also. In daytime viewing the advantage isn't more light, due to your contracted pupil, but how it stops down that large objective to its central region with lesser aberrations.The 10x52, IMHO, were by far the best of the three, as the FOV felt almost as large as the 8x32, and the additional diameter of the eye pieces felt very comfortable, plus the enlarged ‘wasp’ barrel design was very comfortable to hold, which somehow disguised the extra weight. Overall, the views through them seemed to ‘pop’, compared to the others, but I don’t know if this is due to the larger objective lens allowing more light in.
Many thanks for this explanation 👍 Regarding the 12x42 FOV, my ‘reduced’ observation is when I compare it to my 8x32, however, I’m sure it’s FOV is as good as most 10x bins, but it just doesn’t do it for me 😁I see this special "pop" in SLC 10x56 also. In daytime viewing the advantage isn't more light, due to your contracted pupil, but how it stops down that large objective to its central region with lesser aberrations.
Odd that you would complain of "reduced FOV" in NL 12x42 which has as much as most 10x bins, but everything is relative.
That's typical: A binocular with a larger exit pupil will almost always "feel" more comfortable in use. I made a comparison a few years ago, with 8x binoculars (8x20, 8x30/32, 8x40, 8x50, 8x56), and the "easiest" in use was the 8x56.The 10x42 were easy to handle, with not too much weight, however, I didn’t feel they were that much better than the 8x32 to warrant changing them.
The 12x42 did give slightly more detail, but I really didn’t like the reduced FOV, plus I found them hard to hold steady for any length of time, which defeated the additional magnification, but I didn’t try them with the forehead rest.
The 10x52, IMHO, were by far the best of the three, as the FOV felt almost as large as the 8x32, and the additional diameter of the eye pieces felt very comfortable, plus the enlarged ‘wasp’ barrel design was very comfortable to hold, which somehow disguised the extra weight. Overall, the views through them seemed to ‘pop’, compared to the others, but I don’t know if this is due to the larger objective lens allowing more light in.