• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
Where premium quality meets exceptional value. ZEISS Conquest HDX.

Fuji HS20 (1 Viewer)

I thinks so ;) what kind of a question is that ? 'is it worth it '? its such a ridiculous question I just had to answer it with an equally silly answer.:-O

surely you were not being serious ;)

and if you had been bothered to read the question,i said, "are they worth it",not is it worth it.get back to your drink.
 
i acquired my fuji HS20 last week and here are just a few pictures taken through my patio window of some birds at the feeders.
 

Attachments

  • 051.jpg
    051.jpg
    88.6 KB · Views: 221
  • 009.jpg
    009.jpg
    229.9 KB · Views: 212
  • 038.jpg
    038.jpg
    99.1 KB · Views: 155
  • 040.jpg
    040.jpg
    105.6 KB · Views: 154
  • 050.jpg
    050.jpg
    115.9 KB · Views: 184
good first effort.
You'll find with the HS10 & HS20 that the cameras spot focusing cannot focus on anything as small as a bird when using telephoto above 400 or so.

Because the bird is such a small part of the picture the camera is constantly trying to focus at several objects at once ie the bird the feeder and the background which is why your birds are so blurred and the feeder so well in focus. There is also too little depth of field at high magnification for the whole depth of the bird to be in focus.

i would suggest that you place some food on something fairly large and interesting like an old log or watering can etc and then pre-focus on a part of an adjacent larger object thats an equal dostance away (by holding the button down half way) then re-position the camera and compose your shot then take the picture. Think about what the background is going to be in your final image and try and use something green like foliage rather than a dark brown fence.


The more magnification you use the smaller the depth of field (what is in sharp focus) and the more blurred your background will be which will thow your subject into sharp relief.
Heres a good tutorial.
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

Here is an absolutely brilliant photography tutorial completely free consisting of 14x video demonstrations and pdf files .
http://www.karltaylorphotography.co.uk/free-photography-tips-tutorials.htm

For tips on setting the HS10 and HS20 up and general advice you cannot beat this forum.

http://www.cameratips.com/hs10/fuji-hs10-forum

The HS10 and HS20 are essentially the same camera in all important respects so most of the advice on there will be helpful and relevant.
Enjoy your HS20 :t:
 
Last edited:
i am thinking about getting one of these cameras,are they worth it?
thank you

I've had mine a few months now and worked it pretty hard in that time. It does everything I expect of it (quite a lot) but I'm disappointed with the noise and smearing that the fancy shot settings generally show if I view the pics at 100%. I find it best to just use Aperture/Shutter priority or Manual for least noise. Autofocus is not always on target and manual focus is awkward. For the versatile lens, rapid shoot and HD video, I think its worth it if you can't afford an SLR. I don't know if there are better cameras in its range.
 
Last edited:
good first effort.
You'll find with the HS10 & HS20 that the cameras spot focusing cannot focus on anything as small as a bird when using telephoto above 400 or so.

That certainly sounds like a good reason to look at other brands if bird photos are what you want!

Niels
 
fine detailing is very hard to achieve with the HS10 /20 isn't it.
I was very disapointed with many of my initial images. They would seem ok until you cropped them when they became either pixelated or slightly blurred particularly feathers.

There are numerous reasons for this and they can be largely overcome with a little practice.
The first thing to do is to get off Auto ;)

Birds move quickly so you need to make sure that your speed setting is adequate before anything else.
For bird shots I tend to use S mode and set the speed as high as I can, say 200 or 250 if there is sufficient light ,no less than 125 or you'll get blurred shots if there is the slightest movement or twitch.

Then I make sure that the subject is not next to other objects at similar distance or the cameras focusing will be hunting between the objects and not settling on your subject. A typical example would be a bird on a bird feeder. The camera is always going to focus on the larger object and because they are typically round it makes focusing even more difficult.

if there is a golden rule about bird photography it must surely be 'don't take a picture of a bird on a bird feeder'!;)
Best to set up exactly where you want to picture and entice the birds there with peanut butter and dried mealworms or cake etc . Set up the camera on a tripod and try a few test shots then wait patiently until a bird lands . That way you'll end up with professional looking images.

After much experimenting i have found various settings on the camera which cuts down on the amount of post image processing which the Fuji does which results in loss of fine detail. Essentially the camera's software is trying to compensate for camera shake by blending the edges of the image.

Two things that will reduce this is using a tripod or monopod or even bracing against a door frame or tree etc and the other thing is to not use the maximum telephoto magnification. A cropped image taken at 400mm is likely to be a better image that one taken at 720mm
 
That certainly sounds like a good reason to look at other brands if bird photos are what you want!

Niels
not at all. All bridge cameras suffer with this problem .

If you want huge magnification with image stabilisation then you are going to have to put up with some post image software processing. all bridge cameras have it.

The trick is to understand why and avoid it.

Try sticking a 720mm lens on your digital SLR camera and taking a bird picture at 30 feet hand held !
 
Last edited:
not at all. All bridge cameras suffer with this problem .

If you want huge magnification with image stabilisation then you are going to have to put up with some post image software processing. all bridge cameras have it.

The trick is to understand why and avoid it.

Try sticking a 720mm lens on your digital SLR camera and taking a bird picture at 30 feet hand held !

My comment came from you saying that the camera could not focus beyond about 400mm. The FZ18 did not have added trouble focusing at 500 eq mm (its max native reach) and neither did it have trouble focusing if extended zoom was turned on (644 mm eq reach). My current setup is the GH2 w 100-300 which has a 600mm eq reach.

I don't know where the relevance of post processing is in this?

Niels
 
My comment came from you saying that the camera could not focus beyond about 400mm. The FZ18 did not have added trouble focusing at 500 eq mm (its max native reach) and neither did it have trouble focusing if extended zoom was turned on (644 mm eq reach). My current setup is the GH2 w 100-300 which has a 600mm eq reach.

I don't know where the relevance of post processing is in this?

Niels

I didn't say that the camera cannot focus beyond 400mm at all. You're reading what you want to read wihout any understanding .
There is also a lot of difference between 500mm and 720mm ;)

If you take the time and trouble to read what I wrote and understand what I was trying to say about spot focusing on small objects with a bridge camera then you would understand waht I was trying to get at.Clearly you have never used a HS10 or HS20 but still feel you know all about them

I can see that this is going to be a complete waste of time and to be frank my help was not directed at you who clearly knows everything about photography already ...right !?;)

ps by post processing I am talking about the cameras built in anti stabilisation process ....oh jesus why do I waste my time wiith these argumentative timewasters?
 
Last edited:
fine detailing is very hard to achieve with the HS10 /20 isn't it.
I was very disapointed with many of my initial images. They would seem ok until you cropped them when they became either pixelated or slightly blurred particularly feathers.

There are numerous reasons for this and they can be largely overcome with a little practice.
The first thing to do is to get off Auto ;)

Birds move quickly so you need to make sure that your speed setting is adequate before anything else.
For bird shots I tend to use S mode and set the speed as high as I can, say 200 or 250 if there is sufficient light ,no less than 125 or you'll get blurred shots if there is the slightest movement or twitch.

Then I make sure that the subject is not next to other objects at similar distance or the cameras focusing will be hunting between the objects and not settling on your subject. A typical example would be a bird on a bird feeder. The camera is always going to focus on the larger object and because they are typically round it makes focusing even more difficult.

if there is a golden rule about bird photography it must surely be 'don't take a picture of a bird on a bird feeder'!;)
Best to set up exactly where you want to picture and entice the birds there with peanut butter and dried mealworms or cake etc . Set up the camera on a tripod and try a few test shots then wait patiently until a bird lands . That way you'll end up with professional looking images.

After much experimenting i have found various settings on the camera which cuts down on the amount of post image processing which the Fuji does which results in loss of fine detail. Essentially the camera's software is trying to compensate for camera shake by blending the edges of the image.

Two things that will reduce this is using a tripod or monopod or even bracing against a door frame or tree etc and the other thing is to not use the maximum telephoto magnification. A cropped image taken at 400mm is likely to be a better image that one taken at 720mm

some excellent points there earlybird:t:eek:nes that i will take up:t:
cheers
 
Thankyou for that explanation Earleybird, I have a Fuji S4000, which has the same zoom range as the HS10 and HS20, and was experiencing similar problems. Things are a lot better since I started using shutter priority a lot more, I still need to invest in a tripod though |=)|
 
Last edited:
My HS20 certainly focusses right up to 720

Mine does at 1600mm (Raynox converter)

I shot this Little Egret hand held in a terrible hurry as when I saw it in the gloom through the drizzle I thought it was the Spoonbill we have visiting.

Not much of a picture but I was surprised that the camera captured it at all as i was leaning over a wall in a gale and I've only had the camera for two days.

So far I'm very impressed - I also own a Samsung WB650, Canon SX1IS, Nikon D70 (ton of lenses) and a Fuji S8000fd.

What I don't like are....the plastic tripod thread, the dreadful electronic view finder, the obtuse menu system, face detection, dog detection - bird detection would have been nice - not necessarily a database of them but a stab at a bird shape to help focusing.
What I like is the manual zoom, the EXR modes, the weight, AA batteries (I'm on Eneloops), front thread, Provia & Velvia modes (how cute).

When I read the review and saw EVF/LCD switching I didn't think I'd like it but it works just like my Smartphone proximity sensor and is quite useful.

When I bought the camera I was prepared for the usual - it's got amazing zoom but the noise is horrendous - when got the SX1IS I was more amazed by it's video quality than it's stills performance and despite it's longer reach than the S8000 it's typical slow motor zoom made it frustrating for birding when the little darlings are flitting around.

The HS20 has terrific reach, great useability, low noise but is a bit 'cheap' - however it doesn't cost a lot for what it does.

If we get any fine weather I wan't to find a Bumble Bee (or anything that flaps quickly) and shoot it in slo-mo video as that's something quite new to me.
 

Attachments

  • egret 1600.jpg
    egret 1600.jpg
    102.8 KB · Views: 153
Last edited:
I am a little with Chris here: I have had a FZ18 for years and cannot remember last time it was on a tripod ...

Niels
 
Warning! This thread is more than 13 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top