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Eyeglasses - a few unqualified remarks (1 Viewer)

Really I think it's simplistic to say one before the other. Of course if you have crap un-corrected vision, no alpha bins are going to deliver. It's all about tweaking each link in the optical chain (in which I would include eyes, ergonomics and optics).
 
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Thank you.

I still believe that moderate refractive errors (only) do not need correcting in order to permit or improve use of binoculars.

Other significant aberrations, defects, and distortions, must be fixed first, of course.
 
Thank you.

I still believe that moderate refractive errors (only) do not need correcting in order to permit or improve use of binoculars.

Other significant aberrations, defects, and distortions, must be fixed first, of course.
I'm repeating myself, but for me - i'm near-sighted (myopic) - it's necessary that I wear specs birding since I'm locating birds with naked eye first. I've toyed with slipping (tethered) glasses off before grabbing bins, but that gets totally crazy. Thus my interest in subject of how to optimize correction lenses...
 
Thank you.

I still believe that moderate refractive errors (only) do not need correcting in order to permit or improve use of binoculars.

Other significant aberrations, defects, and distortions, must be fixed first, of course.
I'm repeating myself, but for me - i'm near-sighted (myopic) - it's necessary that I wear specs birding since I'm locating birds with naked eye first. I've toyed with slipping (tethered) glasses off before grabbing bins, but that gets totally crazy. Thus my interest in subject of how to optimize correction lenses...
Richard,
Can I assume you are saying moderate refractive errors do not need fixing first, as a binocular has sufficient focus adjustment to correct/adapt?

An admitted quibble, but during the events described in 31, I mostly birded 3-5 days a week, to include the 2 surgeries and the subsequent visits to Opthalmologist, Optometrist and Optician. In that case, those other issues weren't and did not have to be fixed first. It might be argued chasing birds, staring through binos, informed the process of getting to better overall vision.

Middleriver,
Completely agree with your experience with tethered glasses. Ive tried. Its a drag, especially with Rick Young harness in place and competing. One way or the other we need access to both near and far vision to bird, at least I do. I get your exploration of varifocal eyeglasses. Look forward to how that comes out.

Tom
 
I'm repeating myself, but for me - i'm near-sighted (myopic) - it's necessary that I wear specs birding since I'm locating birds with naked eye first. I've toyed with slipping (tethered) glasses off before grabbing bins, but that gets totally crazy. Thus my interest in subject of how to optimize correction lenses...
Understood.
 
Buying frames is a discouraging process. From threads such as this, I know I want ANSI Z87 safety frames, spring loaded hinges, a wide lens therefore a bit curved, Trivex lenses, curved nose piece to bring the lens closer, etc. But my most recent experience is that NONE of the frames offered had spring loaded hinges (seems like they are not FASHIONABLE anymore), they don't carry safety frames because of the hassle of getting reimbursement from the employer, etc etc.

I went to another eyeglass place and bought the ANSI frames for $200. Still no spring loaded hinges. My usual place had their Zeiss lenses made to fit them. Not sure of the lens material.

I have a similar pair thats about 6 years old now and the coatings have worn off, they are hard to keep "clean." I also had to find new frames because the old "fashion brand" frames broke - several times. I had to drill, pin, & epoxy them until it got futile. Again, my usual place said they don't have any frames to fit the lenses (changing FASHION again), but I went shopping to other places & found one, which they snapped in for me.

And there are no more aviator style metal wire earpieces, with the wrapped Nichrome curved metal ear pieces that are "springy."

And even the new single vision glasses have the Astigmatism wrong, stars all have "rays" as do lights at night. Maybe some of that is cataract...
 
Well, I didn't noticed this thread until recently...
Read all posts fast and seems that no one mentioned that, unless you have astigmatism, binoculars/scopes usually can correct your focusing problems i.e. you don't need to use eye-glasses! Yes, it depends also on your type of birding but I usually use binos to find birds and than change to scopes...
Unfortunately I have astigmatism and I choose eye-glass frames that minimises the distance of the lenses to my eyes - to see all AFOV. However, isn't easy to find these frames when I need to change eye-glass lenses - I use "plastic" lenses due to safety reasons (can have accidents and glass break...), and due to UV protection - I do field work with sunny conditions. So, usually have to replace lenses each 2 years due to lenses scratches and coatings degradation...
I think at least Zeiss and Nikon should produce birding eye-glass frames that would minimise ER loss! I know that there are lots of variation within face structure and user preferences (as shown along this thread), but 2 models could cover most cases.
Since some years, due to fashion availability, I use smaller frames and made of thin "plastic" since prefer complete "bridge" pads, since I push my binos/scopes to the eye-glasses - individual pads don't last much time on the correct position, with me...
And yes, since couldn't see all AFOV of Swaro 15x56 (first generation...) and with 100º astro-eps, I considered to do surgery to correct my astigmatism. I gave up, when I asked a doctor of the surgery clinic why she was using eye-glasses and her reply didn't convinced me... Latter found that eye-surgeries cut some nerves that never recover and will affect you for life. Unless you are "blind" without eye-glasses or need to do eye-surgery due to other problems (e.g. cataracts), avoid to do these!
 
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