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Everything you always wanted to know about IS binoculars but were afraid to ask (Q&A) (1 Viewer)

No need to buy lithium batteries since the LSD NiMH rechargeables like the Eneloops came onto the market more than a decade ago. Buy a couple of sets and a decent charger and you're done. BTW, I got my first Eneloops before they became widely available in the US and Europe as part of a group buy on Candlepower forums. They're still going strong.

All those complaints about the price of batteries are ... well, "unfounded". The exception are the Canon 8x20 and 10x20 IS that indeed use lithium batteries (CR123).

They all do that, it's how the mechanical stabilizer works.

You know the Canons ARE porros, do you?

Hermann
Hi Herman,
I do know 10x42L IS Canon is a porro. Can’t speak for the others in the lineup.

Paul
 
Then let me rephrase that - everything degrades over time.
Besides there are not only electronics involved that degrade but also moving parts, fluid filled prisms, etc. So, yes, a device like a Canon 18x50IS will definitely degrade and there is just many more parts that can fail than in a normal bino.
Edit: the question is often also - if it fails, will it be serviceable. And how expensive will such a service be?
I am amazed about how long stuff that must contain sealed lubrication lasts without any servicing, but I'd agree there must be a limit somewhere...

For lenses Canon are usually good for some time after they stop selling it, then things drop off the serviceable list as parts run out. Although they may service something if they have the failed part (they will say they won't service it when they don't have all the parts). Some 3rd parties will also service stuff Canon no longer will, but I suspect they don't have binocular parts.

My Nikon Coolpix 950 (from 1999) still powers up :) - I wonder what the oldest working thing containing electronics I have is? I suspect some old computers will still work... the hard drives maybe not...
 
@Jon555
Of course I hope my 18x50IS will last a long time - hopefully as long as my dad's old stereo (a Wega with electronics from Sony) - BTW the first thing that failed in the stereo was the cassette player, probably because of the rubber bands that transmit power from the motors to the spindles failed. But since it was all separate components I used the amplifier for far longer. Even the over 40 year old LEDs in it still worked even though they got somewhat dimmer over time.
In another hobby of mine (wristwatches) the question of 'how long will it last and can I get it serviced?' frequently pops up. And some people own quartz watches from the 70s that are still going strong. Even with an old normal bino it's not always sure you can still get a service for it. Therefore the excellent little pre-WW2 Hensoldt 6x24 of my grandad is still not serviced. I thought about learning enough on cheap used ones and then servicing it myself. But let's say a brittle cast-metal part snaps off, then it's doomed probably. So I still didn't have the nerve to take it apart. The optics are excellent - almost zero distortion (they were made before pincushion distortion became standard) and sharp to the edge.
 
@Jon555
Of course I hope my 18x50IS will last a long time - hopefully as long as my dad's old stereo (a Wega with electronics from Sony) - BTW the first thing that failed in the stereo was the cassette player, probably because of the rubber bands that transmit power from the motors to the spindles failed. But since it was all separate components I used the amplifier for far longer. Even the over 40 year old LEDs in it still worked even though they got somewhat dimmer over time.
In another hobby of mine (wristwatches) the question of 'how long will it last and can I get it serviced?' frequently pops up. And some people own quartz watches from the 70s that are still going strong. Even with an old normal bino it's not always sure you can still get a service for it. Therefore the excellent little pre-WW2 Hensoldt 6x24 of my grandad is still not serviced. I thought about learning enough on cheap used ones and then servicing it myself. But let's say a brittle cast-metal part snaps off, then it's doomed probably. So I still didn't have the nerve to take it apart. The optics are excellent - almost zero distortion (they were made before pincushion distortion became standard) and sharp to the edge.
I still have a working sansui tuner and amp from the 1960’s , with american made Fisher speakers, a marantz tuner from the 1970’s , still works, and an Onkyo tuner with Denon CD player from the mid 1980’s all functioning. The matching cassette and turntables do not. Amazing if you ask me.

Something that’s been on my mind in the last two to three years that I’ve been more serious into collecting high priced optics, is the potential for longevity. I wonder will the latest and greatest (and most expensive) last as long and maintain their optical quality as the decades go by.

I have a few very well maintained high quality binoculars from the 60’s and 70’s that the coatings look perfect. Although I don’t know how much if any they’ve lost optically from new. Their very good but don’t compare to even the mid level options today. I also had a few Zeiss telescopes and spotting scopes from the 1950’s that were superb , with absolutely no discernible degradation in the coatings. The question is , will NL’s, Noctvoids, FL’s and SF’s still maintain there quality 40-50 years from now. Will the newer coatings and mechanical focus gearing last as long as earlier generations of the top quality optics?

I won’t be around anymore but it’s interesting to think if my grandkids or great grandkids will be looking over a vista or standing on a peak of a Mountain (near where they have there personal hover craft, hovering, waiting for there command for pickup 🤪) and enjoying the incredible optics of a time gone by.

Paul



Paul
 
Allbinos lastest test is of Fujinon TechnoStabi TS-X 14x40


Transmission seem to suffer a bit (73%).

Is that typical for IS bins?

Porro prisms usually transmit a little more light than Roofs, and Canon has good coatings, so I'd assume it's much of a muchness vs. unstabilised, but it's hard finding tests so I can't say for sure. Anyone see anything? Also transmission will vary with light colour, so a single number can be misleading (I've never seen anyone factor in how well human eyes respond to colours though, as more transmission in the green would work better than in the red for brightness, if not colour-fidelity).
 
Porro prisms usually transmit a little more light than Roofs, and Canon has good coatings, so I'd assume it's much of a muchness vs. unstabilised, but it's hard finding tests so I can't say for sure. Anyone see anything? Also transmission will vary with light colour, so a single number can be misleading (I've never seen anyone factor in how well human eyes respond to colours though, as more transmission in the green would work better than in the red for brightness, if not colour-fidelity).
The Allbinos article has a graph plotting transmission against wavelength. The Fuji performs poorly across the spectrum (literally) in this respect given its modern vintage and price point. Allbinos transmission graphs often show 85-90% for modern mid-market non-IS binos, while premium units reach/exceed 90%.
 
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