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Dropped Binoculars out of collimation? (1 Viewer)

I once repaired some slight discollimation by hitting the object lens with a heavy book! Good as new!

At 20 quid you're not going to much worse off!

I wouldn't do it to a decent pair!

The "Mayberry RFD" approach
(an old TV show, where the electronics reapair guy charged you to
bump your radio just right).

I start off with a few experimental hand-bumps when it looks like
one was dropped. It doesn't always work, but most dropped pairs
need the prisms seated OK or the eccentrics can't do enough.
Re-seating mechanically (open surgery) usually helps a lot, if there are clues.
If the prisms don't settle in with a little friendly bumping, it doesn't
work to force things. You can chip prisms.
 
Hi, I am not familiar with tento's, but have looked at a photo, it appears to me that the long barrels should just unscrew from the body, they may as Simon said, just have come unseated. Try unscrewing the barrels and swapping them over, use a strap wrench if they are stubborn, be careful not to cross thread when screwing them back, I know it sounds odd, but it has worked for me on more than one pair of binoculars which were slightly out of alignment. Nothing to lose just trying that.
 
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The cleaning folks have talked about is not a big issue. However, you should learn the difference between Collimation and Conditional Alignment before starting the project.

Conditional Alignment is what virtually all observers are calling "collimation" when they do it. Sadly, this holds true for MOST professional techs as well.

If YOU will be the only one using the bino, and YOUR IPD is the selected target, Conditional Alignment will work just fine. If, however, the instrument is to be used be others it MAY not be good enough.

When it comes to collimation, many professionals are wannabes. The knowledge is no big deal. Getting people to sit still and learn, well, that's another story.

Bill
 
Dear all,

I have a pair of 20x60 Tento binoculars, which we've had for some years.

Unfortunately, my partner dropped them onto concrete. They now have double images. I'm not knowledgeable about the workings of binoculars, but figure that it won't be worth the cost of getting them professionally fixed.

Is there anything I can try to fix them. I found this page on collumating binoculars http://www.cloudynights.com/item.php?item_id=416 but I don't know how to open up the binoculars to access the prism adjusting screws.

Any advice?

Careless,

Maybe if your partner dropped them again, but positioned in them in the opposite direction, they will snap back into collimation. ;)

Not sure if Tentos work the same as Oberwerks but here are some video files from Oberwerk (bigbinoculars.com) that you can view on collimation and conditional alignment that might help (scroll down to "Technical Support"):

Collimation videos

Good Luck!

Brock
 
Hi Carless:

Sadly, after I mentioned Conditional Alignment, Brock points out Kevin’s Oberwerk page, in which you may order two videos relating to, “The Myth of Conditional Alignment.” I have always liked Kevin but, in this case, he is one of those who—although selling thousands of binoculars—doesn’t know what he doesn’t know.

I am glad to see he has invested in some collimation equipment, as Cory and I used to see him claiming he “didn’t need” a collimator because he could “eyeball collimation to 100 power” and just look at each other and shake our heads.

I think if what he says is true, he should easily convince the folks at SPIE to give him seat at a conference at which he could make his case and have his words placed in Proceedings and the SPIE archives, as was my offering, Collimation vs Conditional Alignment, 8491-14, August 12, 2012.

Those who thought my overlooked concept important enough to discuss before the body and invite me to do so included:

Dr. Jose Sasian—2012’s Conference Chair and facility member at UA,
Dr. John Greivenkamp—Optical Sciences Center faculty and curator of UA’s optical museum, and
Dr. Daniel Vokubratovich—SPIE Fellow, a senior engineer at Raytheon, and faculty member and the University of Arizona’s Optical Sciences Center.

Make no mistake; I still like Kevin. However, I like the truth and learning more. Sadly, as long as he insists on trying to undermine that which I know is true, these little reminders are destined to pop up, periodically.

Bill
 
In terms of arc-seconds, how would a full collimation (done and tested well)
and a conditional collimation (done and tested well) differ?

But wait....
This says conditional collimation can be perfect for one interpupillary distance (IPD),
but it will not hold for a different person if it isn't done along the axis of the hinge:

http://spie.org/Publications/Proceedings/Paper/10.1117/12.931108

That seems to be the gist of it.

So, a more informed question would be:

----If I collimate for my eyes at an IPD of 63mm, how far off could they be
(if the collimation moved both axes off the hinge) at an IPD of 55mm or 75mm ?

Assuming the axes were properly set up before a 'bumping' incident, it seems
that trying to fix that with something like eccentric objectives alone would
be the worst possible approach (since that directly disturbs the axes), but
aligning the prisms to find the original axes would fare much better.
 
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In terms of arc-seconds, how would a full collimation (done and tested well)
and a conditional collimation (done and tested well) differ?

But wait....
This says conditional collimation can be perfect for one interpupillary distance (IPD),
but it will not hold for a different person if it isn't done along the axis of the hinge:

http://spie.org/Publications/Proceedings/Paper/10.1117/12.931108

That seems to be the gist of it.

So, a more informed question would be:

----If I collimate for my eyes at an IPD of 63mm, how far off could they be
(if the collimation moved both axes off the hinge) at an IPD of 55mm or 75mm ?

Assuming the axes were properly set up before a 'bumping' incident, it seems
that trying to fix that with something like eccentric objectives alone would
be the worst possible approach (since that directly disturbs the axes), but
aligning the prisms to find the original axes would fare much better.

O_N:

You said: “In terms of arc-seconds, how would a full collimation (done and tested well)
and a conditional collimation (done and tested well) differ?”

First, the term is “conditional alignment.” I deliberately didn’t use “collimation” because some people work ever so hard at being confused and I wanted to remove the temptation to confuse the terms. It’s technically accurate, I just chose not to go there.

In terms of arc-seconds … there is no way to know. That is dependent on if ONE or BOTH prisms are out of alignment, by how much, and in which direction(s).

You also said: “But wait....
This says conditional collimation can be perfect for one interpupillary distance (IPD),
but it will not hold for a different person if it isn't done along the axis of the hinge:

http://spie.org/Publications/Proceed...1117/12.931108”

Wrong! The words “collimation” and “perfect” only go into sentences proffered by the inexperienced. You will note the “perfect” I used was surrounded by quotation marks. An alignment may be perfect for practical purposes, but nothing in optics is “perfect.”

You go on:

“That seems to be the gist of it.

So, a more informed question would be:

----If I collimate for my eyes at an IPD of 63mm, how far off could they be
(if the collimation moved both axes off the hinge) at an IPD of 55mm or 75mm ?

Assuming the axes were properly set up before a 'bumping' incident, it seems
that trying to fix that with something like eccentric objectives alone would
be the worst possible approach (since that directly disturbs the axes), but
aligning the prisms to find the original axes would fare much better.”

Nope! O_N, when I first went “head-to-head” with you, it was because you had a propensity for jumping to conclusions that didn’t exist, and often made pronouncements better left unstated. For example, wouldn’t your:

“… but aligning the prisms to find the original axes would fare much better”

have been stated better as:

“… but WOULDN’T aligning the prisms to find the original axes fare much better?” :t:

In the first statement, you seem to be taking on a concrete position of authority that you really haven’t the experience to take on. Was I offended? NOT IN THE LEAST! Being a little too human, I just get frustrated when I see the tail trying to wag the dog.

Your assessment of the situation is pretty good from the standpoint of a kitchen table technician. I’m not a kitchen table technician.

In the Navy, I was NEVER tasked to repair one small problem of the binocular. When a binocular came to the shop, it was to be COMPLETELY—as in every screw—cleaned, painted, lubed, and, finally, collimated. The prisms were exactly where the needed to be before an eccentric ring was touched! The tilt prism method became popular as a repair shortcut allowing the technician’s firm to pocket more profit. If the prisms are where they should be, the eccentric-ring convention is superior in rigidity, and in moving the LOS laterally.

Attached, you will find a subset of the article which was created well before the article.

I hope it helps.

Bill
 

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"

In the first statement, you seem to be taking on a concrete position of authority that you really haven’t the experience to take on. Was I offended? NOT IN THE LEAST! Being a little too human, I just get frustrated when I see the tail trying to wag the dog.

"

But I was clearly not taking on any position of authority whatsoever.
"Concrete Authority"....while asking a question? I don't know what you are saying.
Is 'tell me if and how I am wrong' authoritarian?
What are you thinking? I was asking you a question.

You say you were not in the least offended, then you carry on and on like you are quite offended.
I don't understand.

This is the nature of the language, and my question is a simple matter of trigonometry.




"
The prisms were exactly where the needed to be before an eccentric ring was touched!
"

Something is going very strange here. If the prisms are precisely where they "need" to be,
there is no need for eccentrics. That's the geometry...neither of us can change that.
Most pairs I have seen use prism setting and propping for rough aim, and eccentrics for fine.

I have only seen a few with prism screws, out of hundreds. Thus, I don't
have the terrible feelings about their use you are expressing.

Your carrying on seems to be addressed at all kinds of people and I appear to
represent them in your mind. I can't do much to re-align that problem..
 
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"

In the first statement, you seem to be taking on a concrete position of authority that you really haven’t the experience to take on. Was I offended? NOT IN THE LEAST! Being a little too human, I just get frustrated when I see the tail trying to wag the dog.

"

But I was clearly not taking on any position of authority whatsoever.
"Concrete Authority"....while asking a question? I don't know what you are saying.
Is 'tell me if and how I am wrong' authoritarian?
What are you thinking? I was asking you a question.

You say you were not in the least offended, then you carry on and on like you are quite offended.
I don't understand.

This is the nature of the language, and my question is a simple matter of trigonometry.




"
The prisms were exactly where the needed to be before an eccentric ring was touched!
"

Something is going very strange here. If the prisms are precisely where they "need" to be,
there is no need for eccentrics. That's the geometry...neither of us can change that.
Most pairs I have seen use prism setting and propping for rough aim, and eccentrics for fine.

I have only seen a few with prism screws, out of hundreds. Thus, I don't
have the terrible feelings about their use you are expressing.

Your carrying on seems to be addressed at all kinds of people and I appear to
represent them in your mind. I can't do much to re-align that problem..

150125

About the prisms:

If you draw two lines on a piece of paper and then start drawing lines HALF the distance between the first and last, you will quickly get to the point at which the width of a pencil mark will be massively more than the width between the first mark and the last. Still, the divisions can go on forever.

Your sticking to precise mathematical formulas is commendable and might work in a perfect world. I have never had the opportunity, however, to repair binoculars in a perfect world. Thus, the math is useful but is not the final consideration in making a repair. There is ALWAYS some degree of accommodation, however, tiny and imperceptible.

I didn’t mean to offend you with my assessment, but you asked me to tell you why I thought you were being authoritarian.” So, I will do so.

The line I pointed out for you was:

“… but aligning the prisms to find the original axes would fare much better.”

To me, that statement shouted of: “I know what I’m talking about and this is that … period.” Quite often, you leave no room for doubt or additional information where, in fact, additional information is needed. ‘Tell you what, after you have made a few thousand “A” type binocular repair customers happy, we should go out for a burger.

But, until then, and seeing this rapidly becoming a peeing match—again—for which I have neither the time nor inclination, I will do as so many have counselled me, and leave you to your perceived domain. There are a number of markers that indicate your reasons for being here are quite different from mine, to such a degree as to being reminiscent of mixing oil and water. Thus, wanting to keep the peace, I will bow out. If I don’t answer any more of your posts that’s the reason. It would be best if you didn’t try to verbally take advantage of my exodus.

Wishing you well, :flyaway:

Bill
 
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Good Lord...
Given the geometry, I strike a match to ask.
And....in a room jam-packed with somewhere over a decade of gasoline.
Estimating from the time of the purchase of equipment and other activities.
I'm not even "peeing" at all, to use your word.
But asking questions, even in a pleasant form, is clearly far too dangerous.
Psych. blunders can be hazards in this age of echo-chambers on the Internet.

I won't bother you again. It's far too dangerous ask questions,
and there is far too much to be learned elsewhere.
I have to rely more on my knowledge of Psychology at this point than on optics.

So....may God's love be with you.
 
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I recently picked up several used binoculars on ebay and have been fixing, cleaning, and collimating. While not exactly needed for screw collimation, I often pull the prisms if the screws are hard to get out. I am glad I found this, it has helped tons.

Serviceing a Porro binocular.: http://youtu.be/BpHtruwBjCo

Here are several pages on this, the first of which is on Siam Cat 20x60's. However, this has screws.


http://m.instructables.com/id/Binocular-Tune-Up-With-Collimation/


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...B2GWetmPZ7X_t3jDg&sig2=GKUYdNX3AfzsDo_NPebncA

http://www.oberwerk.com/support/collimate.htm

Might not hurt to look over these, though.

You might have a better pair, might be worth fixing. I don't know about that type of collimation but it might be better. I think screw collimation is the least good.

I'm getting nice views out of Mercury 7x50's, now that they're pretty close.

The tough part is that your eyes adjust to poor collimation, so try to relax them, move them 4 inches behind ep's, etc
 
Eventually I gave up on these. My partner claims they are still usable, but I just can't get on with one eye observation or bins out of collimation. I eventually decided I couldn't afford really good bins, so I've just bought a cheap pair of bins. Reading reviews and reading between the lines, I don't think I'm as fussy as some. A few weeks ago while part of a nature group I viewed a dog across a lake with both some Aldi zoom binoculars, and a £700 pair of Nikons belonging to someone who was guiding our group. No surprise that the Nikons were obviously better, but it made me think that I can still be satisfied with less than the best. Another in this group had an identical pair of Tentos to ours.

Tentos didn't turn up enough on ebay, and the ones that did sold for many times what I paid for ours. So, eventually I gave up and ordered a pair of these: http://www.picstop.co.uk/celestron-skymaster-binocular-25x70 The reviews on Amazon (where they cost £100 instead of £70) seem quite good, though they are a bit mixed - I hope I get a good pair. There is of course the distance selling regulations if I get a bad pair.

I'm not expecting the optics to be as good as the Tentos, but at least I'll have a pair of working large magnification binos to go with our Pentax Papillios. Thinking about it, the Papillios cost the same as the Celestrons I've just bought, and we've had years of enjoyable use out of those. So maybe it's not unreasonable to hope that the Celestrons will be as good for us as they have been for some of the amazon reviewers.

I have the Celestron 15x70's and 20x 80's. I would recommend sending them in to celestron if they're off when you get them. The reason is that the collimation screws ran out of travel on my 15x70's. I just unscrewed the objectives and pushed on the prisms in the right direction , seems to have worked :/ .

Definitely look at the screw collimation pages I posted. Very easy to get to the screws on mine.

Mine have been AMAZING for astronomy. Not top quality, but very lightweight. Very good view. The Lunt 70mm are 5 lbs, heavier than my 20x80's.

If you're tossing the Tentos, I want them :)
 
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I have the Celestron 15x70's and 20x 80's. I would recommend sending them in to celestron if they're off when you get them. The reason is that the collimation screws ran out of travel on my 15x70's. I just unscrewed the objectives and pushed on the prisms in the right direction , seems to have worked :/ .

Definitely look at the screw collimation pages I posted. Very easy to get to the screws on mine.

Mine have been AMAZING for astronomy. Not top quality, but very lightweight. Very good view. The Lunt 70mm are 5 lbs, heavier than my 20x80's.

If you're tossing the Tentos, I want them :)

Boy, I wish every observer understood how collimation issues are REALLY dealt with by the importer. But, I was in my 50s before I learned there was no Santa. :-C

Bill
 
Hello Bill,

Al least somebody who really knows what are talking about. Thanks!
A question: from all the top quality binoculars I have had only two were perfectly collimated: a Leica BA 10x42 and the Zeiss FL 10x42 I sold last year. I say this because looking with the binocular from 50 cm (~20") off my eyes, at a distant small and defined object, I saw exactly one image inside the small pupil. Then, is there a practical "limit" on the divergence, horizontal and/or vertical, if you can see two images instead of one perfectly formed, acceptable to consider the binocular collimated? I am aware I am not talking about perfect collimation. But trying that "test" with some friends with very different eyes position, those Leica BA and Zeiss FL repeat that compleat colimation.
I hope to have made a clear and an understandable question...!
Tank you!

PHA
 
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Hello Bill,

Al least somebody who really knows what are talking about. Thanks!
A question: from all the top quality binoculars I have had only two were perfectly collimated: a Leica BA 10x42 and the Zeiss FL 10x42 I sold last year. I say this because looking with the binocular from 50 cm (~20") off my eyes, at a distant small and defined object, I saw exactly one image inside the small pupil. Then, is there a practical "limit" on the divergence, horizontal and/or vertical, if you can see two images instead of one perfectly formed, acceptable to consider the binocular collimated? I am aware I am not talking about perfect collimation. But trying that "test" with some friends with very different eyes position, those Leica BA and Zeiss FL repeat that compleat colimation.
I hope to have made a clear and an understandable question...!
Tank you!

PHA

Hi PHA:

First, flattery will get you … everywhere!

Secondly, “Perfect” and “Collimation” don’t belong in the same sentence.

Third: be wary. At 20 inches you should be seeing the same image—if the spacing of the EPs match your IPD. Still, there is no guarantee. Sometimes, and at limited magnifications, I don’t even NEED a collimator (‘sounds like one of my detractors, huh?). At other times, I am off the mark by a good measure—it depends on several physiological factors. That’s why we need a collimator at all times. What most of the people are using when they talk about the binocular they just “collimated” is their personal spatial accommodation!

Yes, there are scales. However, they too, are open for accommodation. There was one I published in my 1997 S&T article.

But the one I like best is attached.

‘Hope this helps.

Bill
 

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Thank you Bill,

I need some help to understand the scale....

Regards,

PHA


PHA:

The left-most column is the magnification of the binocular.

Next is the AVERAGE (in minutes) acceptable separation for the two lines of sight, when those lines cross each other.

Next is the AVERAGE (in minutes) acceptable separation for the two lines of sight, when those lines of sight are divergent.

The right most column is the AVERAGE (in minutes) acceptable separation for the two lines of sight, when they differ in a vertical displacement. The Germans call this “dipvergence.”

I hope that helped. :t:

Bill
 
Yes, indeed! It helps, Bill.
I was not sure how to interpret "step".

Thank you again

PHA

We use it, the Brits use it, as well as the Australians and Canadians. The more Teutonic among is use dipvergence.

Bill
 
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