Canon 350D settings (3 Viewers)

[Geoff Pain]

I am currently using a Canon 350D with a Sigma 170 - 500mm 1:5 - 6.3 APO zoom lens.
My problem is, compared to others who are using this camera or lens my results seem to be lacking in clarity and sharpness.
I am using the following settings
AV Mode
Quality L
AF Mode AI Servo
Metering Mode Spot
ISO 400
White Balance AWB
are these settings okay or do some need changing?
Is there a simple test I can do to see if
A.The camera is functioning properly
B.the lens is functioning properly


Forgot to mention,use the lens on a tripod and some time use a remote cable.
Thanks Geoff

 

[Roy C]

I am currently using a Canon 350D with a Sigma 170 - 500mm 1:5 - 6.3 APO zoom lens.
My problem is, compared to others who are using this camera or lens my results seem to be lacking in clarity and sharpness.
I am using the following settings
AV Mode
Quality L
AF Mode AI Servo
Metering Mode Spot
ISO 400
White Balance AWB
are these settings okay or do some need changing?
Is there a simple test I can do to see if
A.The camera is functioning properly
B.the lens is functioning properly


Forgot to mention,use the lens on a tripod and some time use a remote cable.
Thanks Geoff

Geoff, Not sure what metering mode you are using as the 350D has not got 'spot'. For birds I almost always use 'Partial'

For AF mode I use one shot for pearching birds and A1 servo for flyers.

I always use Raw.

For focusing it is best to use just the centre point only for most situations.

I would go along with AV, ISO 400 and AWB

 

[Quacker]

I am currently using a Canon 350D with a Sigma 170 - 500mm 1:5 - 6.3 APO zoom lens.
My problem is, compared to others who are using this camera or lens my results seem to be lacking in clarity and sharpness.
I am using the following settings
AV Mode
Quality L
AF Mode AI Servo
Metering Mode Spot
ISO 400
White Balance AWB
are these settings okay or do some need changing?
Is there a simple test I can do to see if
A.The camera is functioning properly
B.the lens is functioning properly


Forgot to mention,use the lens on a tripod and some time use a remote cable.
Thanks Geoff

Hi Geoff

You say you use AV mode, which I believe is aperture priority. Apparently this lens is not the greatest but certainly one of the most affordable for 500mm reach. I assume it depends on what you step down to. As 6.3 is fast but not as sharp.

Then again, there is 400 iso which can become 800 or even 1600 in the Canon without noticeable difference. (some will argue)

I don't have a gallery on here. To be honest I don't think my shots are good enough. Secondly and this is the crux, I don't use any post-processing. I have PS Elements somewhere but can't find it. When I had SLR gear, the pics were what they were. If I pay £1000 for a 350d & 170-500 then I'd expect decent shots. Not having to apply mask unsharp and possible amend exposure.

Just my pennorth worth.

Assuming you are happy to use photoshop (please note nothing wrong with that by the way) then I'd advise you to follow the old slr adage.

500(mm) * 1.6 (ccd factor) = 800 so 1/800 or 1/000 as Shutter Priority.

at 400 iso - you could reduce to 1/250 equivalent or even drop a couple of f stops @ 1/1000. All depending on available light, technique and your ability to keep the lens "rock steady"

Well that's the theory lol. I'll leave you to ask the pratical users to add any other relevant bits.

Steve

 

[Geoff Pain]

Looking in the manual,what I'm calling spot is actually Evaluative metering.

 

[Quacker]

Still suspect the lens is possibly the weak link Geoff. I fully appreciate it is probably me with mine as there are some good shots out there - especially in the galleries.

 

[Roy C]

Looking in the manual,what I'm calling spot is actually Evaluative metering.

Nearest thing to spot on the 350D is Partial (covers 9% of the image)
If you use evaluative you are metering for the whole scene, but what you are looking for is correct exposure of the bird - thats why I use Partial.

Cheers
Roy C

 

[Saphire]

Geoff I have the 170-500 and the 80-400 both really need to be around f8 or f10 to get the sharpest image. I am pretty good at hand holding so don't have any problems with a slow shutter speed. If you look in my gallery most of the photo's were taken with that combination.

 

[bob hastie]

With my 30d I find that if I use AI servo for a stationary subject it doesn't have the sharpness I'm looking for. I always use one shot for stationary with the centre focusing spot only.

 

[nigelblake]

The lack of sharpness on this example is subject movement due to slow shutter speed, the bird is scratching and moving quite fast.
Another issue that can cause lack of sharpness in wind vibrating the feathers, this will also require a faster shutter speed.
Generally though your settings should produce pleasing results.

All DSLR images will require some application of Unsharp mask, unless you set the sharpness values in camera, this however is not desirable as it cannot be undone (unless shooting RAW) USM should be applied as the last action when post processing your images.

 

[paul goode]

I am currently using a Canon 350D with a Sigma 170 - 500mm 1:5 - 6.3 APO zoom lens.
My problem is, compared to others who are using this camera or lens my results seem to be lacking in clarity and sharpness.
I am using the following settings
AV Mode
Quality L
AF Mode AI Servo
Metering Mode Spot
ISO 400
White Balance AWB
are these settings okay or do some need changing?
Is there a simple test I can do to see if
A.The camera is functioning properly
B.the lens is functioning properly


Forgot to mention,use the lens on a tripod and some time use a remote cable.
Thanks Geoff

Hi Geoff,

The settings look fine to me apart from the metering which Roy's already mentioned and that ISO 400 is OK so long as the shutter speed is high enough.
The remote cable is a very good idea but is the tripod up to the task? Just the movement of the mirror can cause camera shake. I prefer my setup on a beanbag whenever possible
The grey wag image is difficult to draw conclusions from, its a very 'busy' scene with a bird thats notorious for never being still.
In general your camera and lens can take cracking images, a quick look at Psilo's gallery (pre 400 f5.6) proves that, so....
Post processing is essential. Spending a grand won't get you the best image out of the camera, post processing will improve it.
In a previous thread (sorry not a clue when it was) Nigel Blake explained in length why digital images are SO improved by sharpening etc. You don't mention what PP you do, so that maybe an area to look at.
To test my lens and camera I use a static subject ( very static, a stuffed little owl!) plonked halfway down the garden. If I can get a good shot of that the kits fine and the cock-ups are down to me. Not remotely scientific but it basically works, and with the camera's and lenses I've owned any doubts have been proven pilot error!
You don't mention how long you've had the kit for and how much you've used it. Its took me ages to get a decent shot out of my 50-500 and then things sort of dropped into place. I don't think anything can replace time behind the viewfinder learning from the last sessions mistakes.

All the best, and above all, keep shooting!

Paul

edit: OOPs, Mr Blake got here first!

 

[bpw]

500(mm) * 1.6 (ccd factor) = 800 so 1/800 or 1/000 as Shutter Priority.

I've seen the crop-factor used in this calculation before, but does it really apply? The focal length of the camera is 500mm, so the shutter speed needs to be >= 1/500 (assumes no IS)?

 

[baillieswells]

I've seen the crop-factor used in this calculation before, but does it really apply? The focal length of the camera is 500mm, so the shutter speed needs to be >= 1/500 (assumes no IS)?

The size of the image on the sensor is the same whether the sensor is full frame or cropped.

 

[hollis_f]

The size of the image on the sensor is the same whether the sensor is full frame or cropped.

Exactly! And the amount of shake-induced blur is the same size. But as a proportion of image size it's not the same.

Compare a sensor that's 20mm high with one that's 10mm high. Camera shake that causes the image to move 1mm over the sensor will give blurring over 5% of the large sensor, but 10% over the small sensor. So the small sensor will require a faster shutter speed to give the same amount of blur.

 

[nigelblake]

Exactly! And the amount of shake-induced blur is the same size. But as a proportion of image size it's not the same.

Compare a sensor that's 20mm high with one that's 10mm high. Camera shake that causes the image to move 1mm over the sensor will give blurring over 5% of the large sensor, but 10% over the small sensor. So the small sensor will require a faster shutter speed to give the same amount of blur.

This, as I explained at length on a previous thread on the subject, is incorrect, camera shake is a constant irrespective of sensor size, the subject itself will be the same size on sensor from any given focal length lens.
What you are mistaking as increased camera shake is a product of enlargement.
By your view on this there would be a differing camera shake component on different pixel count sensors of the same size, i.e. the 12Mp EOS 5D and the 16.7 MP EOS 1Ds MkII due to pixel pitch, this simply does not occur.

 

[mjmw]

and here is that thread about camera shake and sensor size.

http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=50295

Cheers

Mark.

 

[Geoff Pain]

The remote cable is a very good idea but is the tripod up to the task?

I use a Manfrotto 055BWB tripod with a 128RC head.Of to Norfolk for a week on Saturday so should be able to get some practise in.
Thanks for all the replies and advice :t:

 

[paul goode]

I use a Manfrotto 055BWB tripod with a 128RC head.Of to Norfolk for a week on Saturday so should be able to get some practise in.
Thanks for all the replies and advice :t:

The kits fine!

Norfolk should give you a bucketful of opportunities, so enjoy yourself and fill a few memory cards. Barn Owl images are compulsory!!
8-P

Paul

 

[eastwood]

Hi, Geoff,
I am using the same camera with Canon 100-400 L IS. I use the AV Mode and same metering mode as you do too. I prefer AI servo for tracking flying objects, but revert to AI Focus for birds in perching position because I can lock the focus for composition. I use ISO 200 most of the time, thanks to the IS. But in dim condition, I will use 400/800, or add a flash. (but thenyou will have 1/200 max shutter speed.)
Eastwood

 

[Stranger]

Geoff, Not sure what metering mode you are using as the 350D has not got 'spot'. For birds I almost always use 'Partial'

For AF mode I use one shot for pearching birds and A1 servo for flyers.

I always use Raw.

For focusing it is best to use just the centre point only for most situations.

I would go along with AV, ISO 400 and AWB

Took my new 350d out for the first time today and used the above settings.
Amazed at the difference.
It was also the first time I have used raw instead of Jpeg.
Will post a few later for comments

 

[Stranger]

3 shots using Geoff`s settings