Canary Islands virgins! (1 Viewer)

[Scridifer]

Now that I've got your attention let me elucidate! 3

I'm in the throes of planning a trip for this time next year to tie in with my birthday and a dose of winter sun for my long-suffering wife!

I have read a lot of the excellent trip reports on here but would like to clarify a few things.

My main targets would be the six endemics plus Houbara Bustard, CCC, Barbary Partridge and Lesser Short-toed Lark. Having never birded anywhere this part of the world there would be plenty of ancillary targets such as African Blue Tit, Cory's Shearwater etc.

I am thinking three or four days each on Tenerife and Fuertaventura, hiring a car on both islands. Does that sound feasible (I wouldn't want to be rushing around too much)?

I understand it would be better to stay in the north of Tenerife and possibly the Jandia area on FTV? Any suggestions for locations are welcome - we prefer quiet, small, perhaps family-run establishments over big, modern hotels.

Is the transfer from Tenerife to FTV (or vice versa) best by internal flight or is ferry a consideration?

Is the ferry trip to La Gomera worthwhile at this time of year? If so does one simply turn around and come back or is it worth exploring (I think I read that you can take cars hired from CI Car across)?

Guidebook-wise I am thinking Gosney and both Crossbill volumes, anything else I should be looking at?

Doubtless I will have plenty of other questions as thinks progress but that will do for now!

Thanks in advance,

Chris

 

[trw]

It's well worth a trip to La Gomera even if it's just to enjoy the awesome scenery and an unspoilt island.
To save the hassle of taking a car, take the ferry to La Gomera and catch the regular bus to Valle Gran Rey, which leaves from the capital and stops at Parajitos,slap bang in the middle of the island and the National Park. The bus terminal in the capital is about 10 minutes walk from the ferry.
There's plenty of tracks to walk from there and a lot of birdlife. There should be enough choices of buses to get back for the ferry in time.
You'll have no trouble seeing Cory Shearwater off La Gomera, close to the port.

Last time we were in Fuertaventura we headed to the Barranco De La Torre, where I saw' ...... an Egyptian Vulture circling overhead, 3 Common Buzzard, 6 Raven, 1 Merlin, 6 Trumpeter Finch, 5 Barbary Partridge, 2 Berthelot’s Pipit,4 Collared Dove and 2 Yellow-legged Gull.'
If you don't take your car, its easily reached by bus from the ferry port and could be fitted in with ferry times[ take the bus to Las Salinas, via Caleta De Fuste].
There's always a chance of seeing something at Las Salinas, and Berthalot Pipit, Spanish Sparrow and Great Grey Shrike are common here.
I did see Short Toed lark near the saltpans and the Fuetaventura Chat in Barranco De La Torre a few years ago

 

[James Lowther]

4 days is plenty for the endemic species/specialities on Tenerife if you are focussed.

Bear in mind that blue chaffinches from Tenerife and Gran Canaria have been split so you need to include that island if you want the grand slam (blue tits on la palma and hierro also potentially in the future!!)

Cheers
James

 

[Larry Sweetland]

4 days is plenty for the endemic species/specialities on Tenerife if you are focussed.

Bear in mind that blue chaffinches from Tenerife and Gran Canaria have been split so you need to include that island if you want the grand slam (blue tits on la palma and hierro also potentially in the future!!)

Cheers
James

Indeed, I'm not even sure what the OP might have meant by the '6 endemics'. Definitely worth seeing as many of the island forms of everything you can, as who knows which will be considered species in a few years time. IIRC, when I first went to Tenerife the Goldcrest was split whereas the Firecrest on Madeira wasn't. Now it's the other way round. At the moment the shrikes are (again) Great Grey, but last year they were Southern Grey. Later this year they may well be something else. Prioritise everything!

 

[Scridifer]

Many thanks pratincol, James and Larry!

La Gomera duly added to the itinerary!

Larry I was counting the two Laurel Pigeons. Fuertaventura Chat, Blue Chaffinch, Tenerife Firecrest and CI chiffchaff but I see I'm mistaken!

As this trip is partly for my wife (although mainly about me!) I don't want to do too much island hopping (this time)!

Thanks again,

Chris

 

[John Cantelo]

You should find the two Crossbill guides on the Canary islands useful in planning your trip and whilst there (see https://crossbillguides.nl/bookstore/canary-islands-I also available from NHBS & Wildsounds). They are particularly useful if your interests extend beyond birds. (Note - I'm one of the editorial team for the series so I'm biased!)

 

[Scridifer]

You should find the two Crossbill guides on the Canary islands useful in planning your trip and whilst there (see https://crossbillguides.nl/bookstore/canary-islands-I also available from NHBS & Wildsounds). They are particularly useful if your interests extend beyond birds. (Note - I'm one of the editorial team for the series so I'm biased!)

Don't worry John, your reputation precedes you - I'm well aware of your connection with Crossbill! In fact your edudite posts on all matters Hispanic are a big part of my decision to get these books!

Chris

 

[Barred Wobbler]

Just back from a relaxed two week break in Tenerife last weekend and we went to Gomera on a day trip.

When we first arrived in Tenerife the light wind was south-east to east and both Gomera and the northern slopes of Tenerife were cloud-free. On 17th January I decided to take the plunge and go to Gomera on the following day. Unfortunately by then the breeze had backed north-east, which is the prevailing wind and that brought problems, but the forecast had the wind staying there for the duration of the trip so it was a matter of making the best of a bad job.

The problem with the north-easterly is that it is responsible for bringing the moisture laden air that provides the water for the cloud forests where the pigeons live on both islands. For ten days or so the northern side of Tenerife was under the typical cloud, with a cloud-base at about 1100m, just low enough to put the laurel forest at Erjos and elsewhere in cloud, with the occasional short break. It also shrouded the upper slopes of Gomera. The cloud tops were at about 1800m, so it was easy to drive out into sunshine on Tenerife, but on Gomera that wasn't an option.

We took the 08.45 Armas ferry from Los Cristianos, booked online the day before. The cover price on the tickets was 25 Euro each way per person, but there was another 16 euros commision with the booking company on top of that. Sailing time is booked as one hour, but we were about 15 minutes late in setting off. Loads of room inside, but I went up to the lifeboat deck for uninterrupted views. The birds on the crossing were a let down. Only a few yellow-legged gulls. Cory's shearwaters weren't quite back yet and we saw none. I did hope for little shearwater, having seen them from my hotel room on two mornings in January 2010, but there were none of those either. A trip in mid-February or slightly later would have at least had the Cory's (when I was staying in Fuerteventura one February the Cory's were returning then) and probably other stuff too.

There were loads of spotted dolphins that homed in on the ship and gave us a great display in the middle of the crossing.

I'd pre-booked a car through Cicar the day before for collection at San Sabastian. 30.70 Euros for the day (10.00 to 16.00) including insurance. Fuel extra, full to full for a compact Opel.

I realised that we would be under cloud for the day, but I hoped that we would be clear of the cloudbase and that the clouds would be high enough to allow views. I was wrong. At the first stop for pigeons, the closed-down Bar la Carbonera, we were right on the cloud base, but we could see the forest below (1st photo). We gave it an unproductive hour before moving on to the other spots I'd planned for pigeons. The problem was that within a few hundred metres we were climbing into the cloud with visibility down to 50m or less and even rain at the western end of the circuit I planned. Eventually I gave up on these spots and went back to la Carbonera for the rest of the stay. We managed one Bolle's pigeon. By contrast I had over 20 of them in three visits to Erjos (Monte del Agua) at ranges too close to photograph as they passed us like bullets.

I appreciate that on another day I'd have had better views, but that's the chances you take. If I'd gone a couple of days earlier it would have been so different with the forests in unbroken sunshine.

The last Armas ferry of the day was the 16.30 and I'd booked on that. The return trip was even less eventful that the outward one. The dolphins failed to show up and a group of five or so apparent regulars who were scanning the waves with binoculars for large whales were disappointed also.

What was doubly frustrating was that as we left San Sabastian and I looked back at the island, the cloud that had blighted us all day was lifting, leaving the slopes clear for the evening. By dawn the next day, as I could see from our apartment at Puerto del Santiago, it was back.

I appreciate that on a different day both the trips and the visit could be very different, but it's as well to be aware of what can happen.

 

[John Cantelo]

Don't worry John, your reputation precedes you - I'm well aware of your connection with Crossbill! In fact your erudite posts on all matters Hispanic are a big part of my decision to get these books!

Chris

That's a very kind and generous, if in my view misguided , thing to say! Thank you,

 

[Patudo]

Last year when I was there in March, conditions on the north coast of Tenerife could be quite mixed - good spells alternating with greyer cloudy conditions and the higher you got the more cloud there was, especially in the early mornings and evenings. That area does get some poor weather in the winter. I stayed at Los Silos but would base myself further east next time - Garachico maybe.

The whole north coast is pretty quiet compared to the tourist-ridden stretch along the south-west - although Nanday parakeets (which might be of interest) flew by a couple of times when I was in the Adeje area. Sea conditions are normally quite calm and a trip on a whale watching boat should let you spot Coreys as well as assorted cetaceans, spotted dolphins and pilot whales being most commonly encountered.

Inter-island ferries are pretty decent, but you'll likely have to go from Fuerteventura to Las Palmas, Gran Canaria, get across GC to Agaete, and from there across to Santa Cruz, Tenerife. I've travelled from Gomera to GC in the past and I think I'd prefer to fly if going from Tenerife to Fuerte.

 

[Scridifer]

Just back from a relaxed two week break in Tenerife last weekend and we went to Gomera on a day trip.

When we first arrived in Tenerife the light wind was south-east to east and both Gomera and the northern slopes of Tenerife were cloud-free. On 17th January I decided to take the plunge and go to Gomera on the following day. Unfortunately by then the breeze had backed north-east, which is the prevailing wind and that brought problems, but the forecast had the wind staying there for the duration of the trip so it was a matter of making the best of a bad job.

The problem with the north-easterly is that it is responsible for bringing the moisture laden air that provides the water for the cloud forests where the pigeons live on both islands. For ten days or so the northern side of Tenerife was under the typical cloud, with a cloud-base at about 1100m, just low enough to put the laurel forest at Erjos and elsewhere in cloud, with the occasional short break. It also shrouded the upper slopes of Gomera. The cloud tops were at about 1800m, so it was easy to drive out into sunshine on Tenerife, but on Gomera that wasn't an option.

We took the 08.45 Armas ferry from Los Cristianos, booked online the day before. The cover price on the tickets was 25 Euro each way per person, but there was another 16 euros commision with the booking company on top of that. Sailing time is booked as one hour, but we were about 15 minutes late in setting off. Loads of room inside, but I went up to the lifeboat deck for uninterrupted views. The birds on the crossing were a let down. Only a few yellow-legged gulls. Cory's shearwaters weren't quite back yet and we saw none. I did hope for little shearwater, having seen them from my hotel room on two mornings in January 2010, but there were none of those either. A trip in mid-February or slightly later would have at least had the Cory's (when I was staying in Fuerteventura one February the Cory's were returning then) and probably other stuff too.

There were loads of spotted dolphins that homed in on the ship and gave us a great display in the middle of the crossing.

I'd pre-booked a car through Cicar the day before for collection at San Sabastian. 30.70 Euros for the day (10.00 to 16.00) including insurance. Fuel extra, full to full for a compact Opel.

I realised that we would be under cloud for the day, but I hoped that we would be clear of the cloudbase and that the clouds would be high enough to allow views. I was wrong. At the first stop for pigeons, the closed-down Bar la Carbonera, we were right on the cloud base, but we could see the forest below (1st photo). We gave it an unproductive hour before moving on to the other spots I'd planned for pigeons. The problem was that within a few hundred metres we were climbing into the cloud with visibility down to 50m or less and even rain at the western end of the circuit I planned. Eventually I gave up on these spots and went back to la Carbonera for the rest of the stay. We managed one Bolle's pigeon. By contrast I had over 20 of them in three visits to Erjos (Monte del Agua) at ranges too close to photograph as they passed us like bullets.

I appreciate that on another day I'd have had better views, but that's the chances you take. If I'd gone a couple of days earlier it would have been so different with the forests in unbroken sunshine.

The last Armas ferry of the day was the 16.30 and I'd booked on that. The return trip was even less eventful that the outward one. The dolphins failed to show up and a group of five or so apparent regulars who were scanning the waves with binoculars for large whales were disappointed also.

What was doubly frustrating was that as we left San Sabastian and I looked back at the island, the cloud that had blighted us all day was lifting, leaving the slopes clear for the evening. By dawn the next day, as I could see from our apartment at Puerto del Santiago, it was back.

I appreciate that on a different day both the trips and the visit could be very different, but it's as well to be aware of what can happen.

A terrible shame your trip was disappointing BW but I really appreciate the information!

Many thanks,

Chris

 

[Scridifer]

Last year when I was there in March, conditions on the north coast of Tenerife could be quite mixed - good spells alternating with greyer cloudy conditions and the higher you got the more cloud there was, especially in the early mornings and evenings. That area does get some poor weather in the winter. I stayed at Los Silos but would base myself further east next time - Garachico maybe.

The whole north coast is pretty quiet compared to the tourist-ridden stretch along the south-west - although Nanday parakeets (which might be of interest) flew by a couple of times when I was in the Adeje area. Sea conditions are normally quite calm and a trip on a whale watching boat should let you spot Coreys as well as assorted cetaceans, spotted dolphins and pilot whales being most commonly encountered.

Inter-island ferries are pretty decent, but you'll likely have to go from Fuerteventura to Las Palmas, Gran Canaria, get across GC to Agaete, and from there across to Santa Cruz, Tenerife. I've travelled from Gomera to GC in the past and I think I'd prefer to fly if going from Tenerife to Fuerte.

Much appreciated Dustin, Garachico looks very promising I must say!

Chris

 

[Larry Sweetland]

Feb last year I found Laural Pigeon fairy easy at mirador La Grimona. Blue Chaffinch round the tables at Las Lajas picnic site, where Canary and Blue Tit in good numbers. Plain Swift south side of the pass south of Erjos, and once over Costa Adeje. Chiffchaff more common in south, where we stayed at Costa Adeje, where there were Barbary Partridge and Stone Curlew on rocky hills behind town. Canary quite common in north. Berthelot's Pipit on stony areas high up my Teide. Cory's off Las gigantes.

Didn't try for Bolle's Pigeon. A Laughing Dove was a surprise near the golf course at Costa Adeje.

 

[Scridifer]

Feb last year I found Laural Pigeon fairy easy at mirador La Grimona. Blue Chaffinch round the tables at Las Lajas picnic site, where Canary and Blue Tit in good numbers. Plain Swift south side of the pass south of Erjos, and once over Costa Adeje. Chiffchaff more common in south, where we stayed at Costa Adeje, where there were Barbary Partridge and Stone Curlew on rocky hills behind town. Canary quite common in north. Berthelot's Pipit on stony areas high up my Teide. Cory's off Las gigantes.

Didn't try for Bolle's Pigeon. A Laughing Dove was a surprise near the golf course at Costa Adeje.

Great info Larry, much appreciated! Laughing Doves - we used to have a pair visit our bird table a while back!

Chris

 

[wolfbirder]

I did a 24-hour visit to Tenerife a year or two ago Chris, its on Vacational Trip Reports. Main target was the 'easy' Blue Chaffinch which I ended up seeing 15 of at 3 locations on the island including easy at Las Lajas and Chio picnic site. Dipped on Tenerife Goldcrest though the Chiffchaff, Blue Tit and Canary was easy as were the local-race Greater Spotted Woodpeckers. Plain Swift also easy at the time of year I went. La Grimona isn't the nicest place being beside main dual-carriageway but with time you should see at least one of Laurel or Bolle's in flight from there.

On Fuerteventura, the location of the Dwarf Bittern is excellent for the Stonechat, and then of course the Tropicbirds will hopefully be back.

 

[Scridifer]

I did a 24-hour visit to Tenerife a year or two ago Chris, its on Vacational Trip Reports. Main target was the 'easy' Blue Chaffinch which I ended up seeing 15 of at 3 locations on the island including easy at Las Lajas and Chio picnic site. Dipped on Tenerife Goldcrest though the Chiffchaff, Blue Tit and Canary was easy as were the local-race Greater Spotted Woodpeckers. Plain Swift also easy at the time of year I went. La Grimona isn't the nicest place being beside main dual-carriageway but with time you should see at least one of Laurel or Bolle's in flight from there.

On Fuerteventura, the location of the Dwarf Bittern is excellent for the Stonechat, and then of course the Tropicbirds will hopefully be back.

Hi Nick,
I read your report! Many thanks for the info, most welcome!

Chris

 

[Paul Chapman]

Chris

Enjoy your trip. I've done two Canaries trips and on both occasions, I did a two centre trip with Tenerife and Fuerteventura and internal flights. I did the ferry to La Gomera on the first trip but I have not been to El Hierro or La Palma (for the Blue Tit races) or Gran Canaria (for the recently split Blue Chaffinch race). Three to four days on each with an internal flight should be comfortable to target what you want to see on Tenerife & Fuerteventura.

All the best

 

[Scridifer]

Chris

Enjoy your trip. I've done two Canaries trips and on both occasions, I did a two centre trip with Tenerife and Fuerteventura and internal flights. I did the ferry to La Gomera on the first trip but I have not been to El Hierro or La Palma (for the Blue Tit races) or Gran Canaria (for the recently split Blue Chaffinch race). Three to four days on each with an internal flight should be comfortable to target what you want to see on Tenerife & Fuerteventura.

All the best

Many thanks Paul, much appreciated!

Chris

 

[foresttwitcher]

Hi Chris, just to throw a bit of a spanner in the works, I found it easier to find the two pigeons on La Palma & the desert species on Lanzarote! But then you'd have to also do Tenerife for the Blue Chaffinch & Kinglet plus Fuerteventura for the chat, as I did a few years ago (see: https://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=305123&highlight=Canary+Islands) - a good excuse to visit a few more islands & more ferry journeys; although some crossings are in sea-cat type craft that are not good for viewing.

 

[Scridifer]

Hi Pete, yup, I read your (excellent!) report, many thanks! As I will have my better half in tow I plan to limit the island hopping this time around, but would certainly like to visit Lanzarote (and La Palma) in the future. Your input is much valued, thanks again!

Chris