Tiraya
San Diego CA
Wow, that long ago huh. Well it's now October 2022 and I've made a total of 5 Hawaii trips (2 to the Big Island, 2 to O'ahu, 1 to Kauai). I thought my commentary here might help anyone thinking of going in future based on current conditions.
O'ahu has two endemic species, the 'elepaio and the amakihi. Aiea Loop Trail is the common choice, but 'elepaio is a tougher bird as there are few individuals in this area, it's not as easy as the 'elepaio species on other islands. Check eBird for recent locations of individuals hanging around, they keep territories. Bristle-thighed curlew is seasonally persistent at the far north of the island, I saw one on the golf course which it felt like I was trespassing to get onto, but people seem to do it and access the beach this way. Mariana swiftlet is on the Aiea Ridge Trail, not Loop Trail, though very rarely they are seen on the Loop too. Taking the Loop trail, midway there is an overlook connecting to the Aiea Ridge Trail. You can see the swiftlets here either in the sky or coursing over the forest slopes below you, but I'm told the further you go on the Ridge Trail the higher your odds as it brings you closer to their remote roosting cave. You'd think it would be straightforward to spot them since they roost nearby but they are actually not that easy. 'Elepaio also occurs at this overlook, but it does not really persist further as the ridge trail is too exposed for their preferences. Generally you'll be taking the north half of the Aiea Loop to the overlook, and retracing your steps, rather than making the whole loop (especially to maximize chances of 'elepaio). 'i'iwi is thought to be extirpated from this island presently.
Kauai is a tricky case and that's only worsened now mosquitos have invaded the prime habitat. Anianiau prefers the drier slopes and you can find it with luck around the uppermost overlook in Koke'e State Park (Pu’u O Kila Lookout). My advice is to then walk back down the main road about half a mile and enter into the dry forest overlooking the ocean, that's where I saw mine and others have too. I heard mine calling down the cliff and thankfully it eventually flew up with amakihi and white-eyes. The other three, akeke'e, akikiki, and puaiohi are real trouble especially now they are declining rapidly. All 3 are within the Alakai Wilderness and access is limited, most birders will fail to find any of these three. There are two ways to access the Wilderness. The first is from the Pu’u O Kila Lookout, and hiking 2 miles into the wilderness (it's not flat, and often muddy, beware). The second is driving a side road from opposite the Koke'e State Park Campground, however this requires 4wd but it is the easier hike. All 3 of these birds need shady, well-sheltered native forest and the more remote you can get (either to the NE or SE), the better your odds, so hiking fitness is very useful. 'Apapane, Kauai Amakihi and 'Elepaio I have not specified as they are common all over up there. 'i'iwi is possible but very rare and declining here, that one is best on the Big Island.
Big Island is effectively two categories: Hakalau Forest and Dry Forest. Hakalau is a private forest and you must sign up for a tour (either with Jack Jeffrey, Gary w/ Hawaii Forest & Trail, or Mandy. The tours run about $250 per person but minimum 2, so you pay $500 if it is just you -- however Jack and Gary will usually have multiple people scheduled on the same day so usually you won't be paying the solo price. They are all excellent guides and I do recommend them, besides that it is the only way to see some of the species due to the private reserve. You have a very high chance of seeing all the endemic birds in this area (oma'o, amakihi, akepa, akiapola'au, io (hawk), alawi (creeper), nene (goose)). The toughest one is akiapola'au which only has a few breeding pairs left, akepa can be tough to see but they are heard often. You will see many 'i'iwi as well, this is the best place in the archipelago to see them. Dry Forest is home to just one bird, but it's a very interesting one, palila. Many people have found this species at the namesake Palila Discovery Center, which is a rough drive through dry forest. Know your birds before going as many people mistake them for amakihi or red-billed leiothrix. It does not require a 4wd most of the time but if the storms have been brutal, it can tear the road up. Unfortunately this bird seems to be on its way out, I've made multiple attempts and this year none of the tours have found one, nor have the recent surveys. The drought this summer hit it very hard and it may already be gone, which is unfortunate as there are no mosquito or habitat threats like the other species.
Hope this helps anyone else planning these trips! I haven't covered any non-natives besides the swiftlet, feel free to ask and I can answer for those. There is one other thing to note, which is that learning songs and calls is very tough for these islands. A lot of the endemic birds have multiple songs (some like 'apapane have nearly 300 known song variants), and often times each species has a common call that nearly overlaps with that of another species. So it's very tough to just listen and chase a sound, and more patience than usual is required!
O'ahu has two endemic species, the 'elepaio and the amakihi. Aiea Loop Trail is the common choice, but 'elepaio is a tougher bird as there are few individuals in this area, it's not as easy as the 'elepaio species on other islands. Check eBird for recent locations of individuals hanging around, they keep territories. Bristle-thighed curlew is seasonally persistent at the far north of the island, I saw one on the golf course which it felt like I was trespassing to get onto, but people seem to do it and access the beach this way. Mariana swiftlet is on the Aiea Ridge Trail, not Loop Trail, though very rarely they are seen on the Loop too. Taking the Loop trail, midway there is an overlook connecting to the Aiea Ridge Trail. You can see the swiftlets here either in the sky or coursing over the forest slopes below you, but I'm told the further you go on the Ridge Trail the higher your odds as it brings you closer to their remote roosting cave. You'd think it would be straightforward to spot them since they roost nearby but they are actually not that easy. 'Elepaio also occurs at this overlook, but it does not really persist further as the ridge trail is too exposed for their preferences. Generally you'll be taking the north half of the Aiea Loop to the overlook, and retracing your steps, rather than making the whole loop (especially to maximize chances of 'elepaio). 'i'iwi is thought to be extirpated from this island presently.
Kauai is a tricky case and that's only worsened now mosquitos have invaded the prime habitat. Anianiau prefers the drier slopes and you can find it with luck around the uppermost overlook in Koke'e State Park (Pu’u O Kila Lookout). My advice is to then walk back down the main road about half a mile and enter into the dry forest overlooking the ocean, that's where I saw mine and others have too. I heard mine calling down the cliff and thankfully it eventually flew up with amakihi and white-eyes. The other three, akeke'e, akikiki, and puaiohi are real trouble especially now they are declining rapidly. All 3 are within the Alakai Wilderness and access is limited, most birders will fail to find any of these three. There are two ways to access the Wilderness. The first is from the Pu’u O Kila Lookout, and hiking 2 miles into the wilderness (it's not flat, and often muddy, beware). The second is driving a side road from opposite the Koke'e State Park Campground, however this requires 4wd but it is the easier hike. All 3 of these birds need shady, well-sheltered native forest and the more remote you can get (either to the NE or SE), the better your odds, so hiking fitness is very useful. 'Apapane, Kauai Amakihi and 'Elepaio I have not specified as they are common all over up there. 'i'iwi is possible but very rare and declining here, that one is best on the Big Island.
Big Island is effectively two categories: Hakalau Forest and Dry Forest. Hakalau is a private forest and you must sign up for a tour (either with Jack Jeffrey, Gary w/ Hawaii Forest & Trail, or Mandy. The tours run about $250 per person but minimum 2, so you pay $500 if it is just you -- however Jack and Gary will usually have multiple people scheduled on the same day so usually you won't be paying the solo price. They are all excellent guides and I do recommend them, besides that it is the only way to see some of the species due to the private reserve. You have a very high chance of seeing all the endemic birds in this area (oma'o, amakihi, akepa, akiapola'au, io (hawk), alawi (creeper), nene (goose)). The toughest one is akiapola'au which only has a few breeding pairs left, akepa can be tough to see but they are heard often. You will see many 'i'iwi as well, this is the best place in the archipelago to see them. Dry Forest is home to just one bird, but it's a very interesting one, palila. Many people have found this species at the namesake Palila Discovery Center, which is a rough drive through dry forest. Know your birds before going as many people mistake them for amakihi or red-billed leiothrix. It does not require a 4wd most of the time but if the storms have been brutal, it can tear the road up. Unfortunately this bird seems to be on its way out, I've made multiple attempts and this year none of the tours have found one, nor have the recent surveys. The drought this summer hit it very hard and it may already be gone, which is unfortunate as there are no mosquito or habitat threats like the other species.
Hope this helps anyone else planning these trips! I haven't covered any non-natives besides the swiftlet, feel free to ask and I can answer for those. There is one other thing to note, which is that learning songs and calls is very tough for these islands. A lot of the endemic birds have multiple songs (some like 'apapane have nearly 300 known song variants), and often times each species has a common call that nearly overlaps with that of another species. So it's very tough to just listen and chase a sound, and more patience than usual is required!
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