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Birding Bulgaria - Two weeks in the Balkans (1 Viewer)

Day 13 - Saturday 10th June

My last full day birding in Bulgaria.

Our first stop today was about 20 km north of Sandanski where the railway line crosses just beyond Dolna Gradeshnitsa. A track here took us up to a small sandpit with a thriving Bee-eater colony, but the target was Rock Sparrow – a very scarce bird in Bulgaria (a ‘write-in’ on my list and a lifer for Victor). After a short wait, we had excellent views of the sparrow plus Golden Oriole, Eastern Olivaceous & Sardinian Warblers, Black-headed Bunting and Black-eared Wheatear.
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The cliffs above Ilindentsi on a minor road to Ploski (about 10 km south from the previous stop) were another site for Rock Nuthatch. The scenery was very attractive, and the cliffs certainly looked the part. Here we found were Eastern Black-eared Wheatear, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Hoopoe, Calandra Lark, Crag Martin, Alpine Swift, etc. Unfortunately, our bad luck with Sittidae had returned and we didn't find the elusive nuthatch .... or was it just that this time we didn’t have a saint on our side? That said it was another of those sites where it would have been great to spend the whole day.

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Happily, although the birds didn't quite perform as hoped there were other attractions here. Checking a shady water trough near the road produced another Fire Salamander and a Yellow-bellied Toad (another ‘herp’ lifer).
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Back in Sandanski another siesta beckoned so I treated myself with a stroll along the town’s attractive tree-lined boulevards, through a pleasant park and then around a small archaeological museum celebrating the town’s Roman remains.

For our late afternoon/early evening birding, we returned to Rupite only this time Dimitar with a clearer plan of action; we’d drive down to the railway bridge and scan for raptors. It wasn’t long before I spotted a Buzzard being mobbed by an Eleonora’s Falcon. Dimitar quickly located another nine Eleonora’s Falcons roosting in a dead tree nearby. The birds showed the full range of plumage types from dark slate-grey birds to much paler Hobby-like individuals. The latter provided a welcome confirmation as to the bird I’d seen previously. The phenomenon of pre-breeding Eleonora’s Falcons gathering inland before heading for their coastal breeding colonies has been known for some years and at this site (where up to 20 birds gather) for about a decade. Beautiful, elegant falcons! Kestrel and Short-toed Eagle were also present. Frustratingly, I saw distant buteo-like birds high over the cliff several times but never well enough to know if they could have been Long-legged). Then it was back to Sandanski for our last evening meal together.

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Sunday 11th June

My last (half) day birding in Bulgaria.

It was about two hours from Sandanski to Aldomirovsti Marsh (our final birding destination) just north of Sofia. En route, we briefly stopped in the Kresna Gorge - an impressive place but we saw little more than very distant Blue Rockthrush. To be honest, being a regular visitor to Spain I wasn't overenthusiastic about seeing vultures, our target here.
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Aldomirovtsi Marsh proved to be a superb site with a marshy area c1.2 km x 1 km which is roughly the size of the main lake and reed beds at my regular haunt, Stodmarsh, Kent) but surrounded by open scrub and backed by low limestone hills. Despite my loyalty to a local patch I have to admit that Aldomirovsti had a far greater number of birds and a greater variety too. Herons featured well with Bittern (heard only), Little Bittern, Purple & Grey Heron and Great White Egret. Dimitar also heard Little Crake (which, naturally, I couldn’t hear at all). The bushes held a Lesser Grey Shrike, Stonechat, many Whinchat a nd a few Whitethroat plus the odd Black-headed Bunting. The limestone hillside was particularly good for Ortolan Bunting. Damper areas had Black-headed Wagtail and the reedbed vibrated with the calls of Great and Common Reed Warbler. Although I couldn’t hear them, two Savi’s Warbler showed well (despite my awful photo!) as did, after a struggle, Marsh Warbler. Marsh Harrier were numerous, a single Montagu’s Harrier ghosted over and several Common Buzzard put in an appearance but, once again, the only Long-legged Buzzard appeared briefly and distantly.

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However, good birding not withstanding, the highlight of my visit was seeing such an abundance of butterflies with two modest puddles each attracting numbers into three figures. It was a joy to see them even if I couldn't identify all of them (yet) and a salutary reminder of how nature depleted we are in the UK. Perhaps, it wasn't the avian finale I'd have liked (such as a showy Long-legged Buzzard or more obliging Little Crake) but having enjoyed a fortnight of excellent birding I'm not complaining!

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Summary

Apparently, in Medieval times Bulgaria was a byword for a far-off & mysterious country about which few knew anything at all. I'm not sure things have greatly improved since as I doubt that it's "on the radar" for nearly as many people as it should be. I confess that if I hadn’t edited the Crossbill Guide to the Rhodopes last year, it wouldn’t have crossed my mind to visit Bulgaria. Editing that book reminded me just how many new birds awaited me there. I also realised how many birds I might see there that I hadn’t seen this century (and some that I’d not seen for over 50 years). Checking the routes in the Crossbill Guide (via Google Streetview) also revealed to me that Bulgaria was a strikingly attractive country. What I hadn’t bargained for was how many new ‘herps’ I’d also see.

I ended up seeing 200 bird species on my jaunt despite late May/early June probably not being the optimal time to visit for a great diversity of species. I remain unsure of the precise number of avian lifers I had on this trip as when I visited Cyprus 25 years ago various warblers hadn’t then been ‘split’ and made such little impression that I can’t recall whether I saw them (and frustratingly I can't find my notebook) . I went with a hit list of 15 species (at least 10 of which were lifers) and saw them all except Yelkuoan Shearwater (which I didn’t mind missing particularly as it’s now been lumped with Balearic Shearwater). My undoubted lifers were Pygmy Owl, Hazelhen, Eastern Olivaceous, Olive-tree Warbler, Sombre Tit, Levant Sparrowhawk, Great White Pelican, Dalmatian Pelican, Rock Partridge and Rock Nuthatch. Whilst I may have seen all or some of the following in Cyprus - Chukar, Eastern Orphean, Eastern Subalpine and Eastern Bonelli’s Warblers – I have no memory of them, so they felt like ticks! In addition, if some taxonomists are to be believed, Black-headed Wagtail was also a lifer. I certainly didn’t expect to see all of my targets. Seeing two megas – Pygmy Owl & Hazelhen on the first two days was a relief. Finding & identifying my third and my final megas – Levant Sparrowhawk & Rock Nuthatch - for myself was extremely satisfying. It's good to know that I may be as deaf as a post and my eyesight not what it was but I can still find & ID birds! My “century ticks” included Long-legged Buzzard (real ones, not cirtensis!), Nutcracker, Pygmy Cormorant, Common Rosefinch (a scarlet one), Lesser-grey Shrike, Syrian, Grey-headed and Middle-spotted Woodpeckers, Black-headed Bunting, Semi-collared Flycatcher and Isabelline Wheatear. All good birds many of which, to be honest, felt like lifers.

I’m not really into snakes, lizards, amphibians, etc but I was very pleased to tick Fire Salamander, Yellow-bellied Toad, Schnidtler’s Newt, Eastern and Balkan Green Lizards, Glass Lizard, Snake-eyed Skink, Meadow Lizard and Worm Snake. The latter was a curious tiny snake that fully lived up to its name. I’ve always found it hard to believe wild tortoises really exist so seeing both Greek and Hermann’s Tortoise was probably the highlight of this aspect of my trip. I think Chamois was also a tick. I’ve not even started on the butterflies …

Finally, credit to Neophron Tours for organising and adapting the itinerary to maximise my chances of seeing all my lifers. Dimitar was an excellent guide with sharp ears and excellent eyesight who worked hard to find the birds for clients. Victor, the driver, was quite simply Herculean in his efforts driving me to where I needed to be to see the birds. It helped that he was also a birder (and he was also, I discovered, an assistant professor of zoology [I think] and an immensely talented wildlife artist). Recommended!
 
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Glad you found the Flycatchers (I was the one who gave Dimitar the location for the active nests). I have seen countless Snake-eyed Skinks and Meadow Lizards but never the newt. Do you have the scientific name please John, I can't find it in my book?

Chris
Apologies for the delay in getting back to you. I confess I wrote down the name & posted my account without checking it in the herps field guide. Apparently, it's often regarded as a race of Smooth Newt (Lissotriton vulgaris schmidtleri) although the field guide does note that it may be a full species. I've no idea how you distinguish it from the nominate form other than by distribution (it's found in NW Greece, SE Bulgaria, European Turkey and Anatolia).
 
Apologies for the delay in getting back to you. I confess I wrote down the name & posted my account without checking it in the herps field guide. Apparently, it's often regarded as a race of Smooth Newt (Lissotriton vulgaris schmidtleri) although the field guide does note that it may be a full species. I've no idea how you distinguish it from the nominate form other than by distribution (it's found in NW Greece, SE Bulgaria, European Turkey and Anatolia).
Many thanks John and no need to apologise, writing up this excellent report has obviously been time-consuming enough! Yes I have it now - we probably have the same field guide (Speybroeck, Beukema et al).

Chris
 
A great account and trip list, John. You did very well to get the Rock Partridge - I've tried for it three times at the same site and failed each time, and it remains my nemesis bird. Some other good species for Bulgaria too.
 
Sunday 11th June

My last (half) day birding in Bulgaria.

It was about two hours from Sandanski to Aldomirovsti Marsh (our final birding destination) just north of Sofia. En route, we briefly stopped in the Kresna Gorge - an impressive place but we saw little more than very distant Blue Rockthrush. To be honest, being a regular visitor to Spain I wasn't overenthusiastic about seeing vultures, our target here.
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Aldomirovtsi Marsh proved to be a superb site with a marshy area c1.2 km x 1 km which is roughly the size of the main lake and reed beds at my regular haunt, Stodmarsh, Kent) but surrounded by open scrub and backed by low limestone hills. Despite my loyalty to a local patch I have to admit that Aldomirovsti had a far greater number of birds and a greater variety too. Herons featured well with Bittern (heard only), Little Bittern, Purple & Grey Heron and Great White Egret. Dimitar also heard Little Crake (which, naturally, I couldn’t hear at all). The bushes held a Lesser Grey Shrike, Stonechat, many Whinchat a nd a few Whitethroat plus the odd Black-headed Bunting. The limestone hillside was particularly good for Ortolan Bunting. Damper areas had Black-headed Wagtail and the reedbed vibrated with the calls of Great and Common Reed Warbler. Although I couldn’t hear them, two Savi’s Warbler showed well (despite my awful photo!) as did, after a struggle, Marsh Warbler. Marsh Harrier were numerous, a single Montagu’s Harrier ghosted over and several Common Buzzard put in an appearance but, once again, the only Long-legged Buzzard appeared briefly and distantly.

View attachment 1518908 View attachment 1518909 View attachment 1518910

However, good birding not withstanding, the highlight of my visit was seeing such an abundance of butterflies with two modest puddles each attracting numbers into three figures. It was a joy to see them even if I couldn't identify all of them (yet) and a salutary reminder of how nature depleted we are in the UK. Perhaps, it wasn't the avian finale I'd have liked (such as a showy Long-legged Buzzard or more obliging Little Crake) but having enjoyed a fortnight of excellent birding I'm not complaining!

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Some Yellow-banded Skippers and two Black-veined Whites among others.
 
A great account and trip list, John. You did very well to get the Rock Partridge - I've tried for it three times at the same site and failed each time, and it remains my nemesis bird. Some other good species for Bulgaria too.
Thanks. It wasn't me who did well to get the Rock Partridge but the guide! We were there shortly after dawn and the guide, Dimiter, heard it calling as we emerged from the van and almost as quickly spotted it at the top of the cliff. Dimiter suggested we scramble up the scree slope for a better look but when he added that it had taken two hours to locate it the last time he'd tried it I opted to look for Corncrake, etc. A friend looked there a few days earlier in the week and went for the scramble but it again took several hours to find (and he missed Corncrake). I know that Rock Sparrow is a good species for Bulgaria as it was a lifer for Victor but out of curiosity which other species would you regards as 'good' for the country
 
Thanks. It wasn't me who did well to get the Rock Partridge but the guide! We were there shortly after dawn and the guide, Dimiter, heard it calling as we emerged from the van and almost as quickly spotted it at the top of the cliff. Dimiter suggested we scramble up the scree slope for a better look but when he added that it had taken two hours to locate it the last time he'd tried it I opted to look for Corncrake, etc. A friend looked there a few days earlier in the week and went for the scramble but it again took several hours to find (and he missed Corncrake). I know that Rock Sparrow is a good species for Bulgaria as it was a lifer for Victor but out of curiosity which other species would you regards as 'good' for the country
Definitely Rock Sparrow, which I didn't know occurred here; Eleonora's Falcon (I've only just found out about the Rupite site); and the other species like Chukar and Hazelhen that I haven't seen here yet!
 
I've been visiting SW Europe (more specifically Cadiz Province) for years for my fix of continental birding but editing the "Crossbill Guide to the Rhodope Mountains" (i.e. Bulgaria) made me realise how many European lifers awaited me in the east (plus as many 21st century ticks). So in late May, I found myself on a flight that turned left towards Sofia instead of right to Andalucia. My knowledge of the area being seriously lacking and my hearing seriously duff, I booked a two-week break with local specialists Neophron Tours. There were four customers for the first week – Quintin and Lauren, Peter and myself – but for the second week, I was the only client (expensive but cheaper than coming back for a second tour!). Late May-early June is probably later in the year than ideal to explore the area, but I’d already organised my annual spring jaunt to Spain when I booked.

Day 1 - Monday 29th May

The tour started on May 29th with a drive up from Sofia into the Rila National Park some two hours south of the capital. These attractive mountains have an alpine feel with birds to match. Our twin targets for the day were Pygmy Owl and Hazelhen. We climbed up through conifer woodland seeing Nutcrackers (a century tick) en route and stopping several times to look for the owl and other denizens of pine woodlands. Happily, after several stops, we found the owl and had excellent 'scope views of it as it called sitting atop a large pine tree (not that I could hear it myself!). Pygmy Owl and Hazelhen were my two top targets for the trip so it was a relief to seeone of them on the first day. It was a feisty little fellow and well worth the trip alone. However, Hazelhen eluded us.

Shortly thereafter we reached Belmeken Reservoir which was set in an entirely different landscape of open short grass, small bushes and alpine ‘porcupine’ vegetation beyond which snowy mountains loomed. This area had many Wheatears, our first Red-backed Shrikes, Crossbill, Whinchat, Black Redstart and, somewhat surprisingly given the altitude, Susliks. Further down there were more pine woodlands and alpine meadows where Ring Ousels abounded. After fruitlessly searching more woodlands around the Yundola Ski School for Hazelhen, we headed for the nearby Tourist Complex Andela for our overnight stay.View attachment 1518053View attachment 1518055View attachment 1518052
Its nice to read that you got a century tick in the form of a Nutcracker. Don't forget a century tick is also a millenium tick!
 
A terrific report that somehow I'd missed until today John.

Some cracking habitat shots as well as some great birds AND an impromptu history lesson - great stuff!

Cheers
Mike
 
Thanks, Mike. As you will have realised, I was quite taken with Bulgaria. Next time I'd like to take in more of the history & antiquities of the country with a visit to the historic city of Plovdiv being high on my list. It's also a top country for seeing Brown Bears ...
 
Very nice read, thanks for sharing. I was honestly shocked reading about your misfortune regarding the rock nuthatch, I've always found them to be the most prominent species (sometimes annoyingly so) in their habitat.
Also, your 'Pied Wheatear' in post #29 shows white going some way down the back, which I believe would be very unusual for a pure Pied. I guess it's one of the apparently common hybrids between EBEW and Pied? Did your guide notice this by any chance?
 
Also, your 'Pied Wheatear' in post #29 shows white going some way down the back, which I believe would be very unusual for a pure Pied. I guess it's one of the apparently common hybrids between EBEW and Pied? Did your guide notice this by any chance?
Yes, hybrids are quite common at that location.

Chris
 
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