Mr Loma Man...Spicy, Sexy Sichuan
Thursday 25th April:
Journey: Xiaojin > Mengbi > Barkam (Maerkang)
Birding: Mengbi
Overnight: Barkam (police visit)
Ah yes...Barkam...the town with no streets, no rooms at the inn and nervous teenage policemen...
But before that a day of travel punctuated by birding stops. Four lifers today: Himalayan Buzzard, Plain-backed Mountain Finch, White-winged Grosbeak and the main prize...Sichuan Jay...yay...
Otherwise repeat sightings of goodies such as Blood Pheasant, White Eared Pheasant, Snow Pigeon, Himalayan Griffon and Lammergeier; more redstarts and tits and those charismatic Giant Laughingthrushes...
Mengbi Pass and another high-altitude day, our birding consisted of stops on the ascent, at the summit and on the descent...Great Tit (of whichever variety) and White Wagtail were seen in picturesque settings; Himalayan Buzzards cruised about the tree-clad slopes...a lifer of some sort or another depending on taxonomy I think?
One pit-stop produce our first proper lifer of the day as a pair of White-winged Grosbeak dropped into roadside pine trees...
At the summit we spent time with Chinese Beautiful Rosefinch, Giant Laughingthrush, Kessler's Thrush and a lone Lammergeier. Eventually a single Plain Mountain Finch gave itself up quietly feeding in the grassy slopes below the summit...
Descending on the other side of the pass we stopped at a small settlement and began the search for our main target...hearing them first and, eventually, getting views of a perched bird lower down the road...Sichuan Jay gave itself up to mixed relief as Phil decided afterwards his views were of the UTV kind...displaying Crested Goshawk's soon after helped heal that pain a little
Descending from the high peaks a bend in the road offered a chance at some passerine action and we explored the valley...after spooking a roosting buzzard, White-capped Water and Plumbeous Redstarts and a White-throated Dipper were soon found and then some of those silent phylloscs...suggestions welcome...
Less expected were two or three White Eared Pheasants that we disturbed...they weren't for hanging around sadly and the excitement took it's toll on two members of the team...
A final stop delivered Chinese Song Thrush and a confiding Grey-backed Shrike before...
So...a day of travel, quality birding and then came...Barkham...a city of change and most of that change involving digging up the streets...but not in a genteel fashion...no the road was dug down to its bare bones...one way about a metre lower (or higher, depends which way you travel) than t'other...a recipe for traffic chaos that delivered in spades!
Add to this our favoured hotel being full and the next one open to us round eyes likewise unable to provide for us we found a reasonable one and checked in...no problems with the little cutey on reception duties...wash and scrub up and off to eat...success on that front although quite what we ate now escapes me...
Returning to our rooms at c.2100 we settled down to do the daily log whence comes a tapping on the door...Roland opens it and we are faced with our dear friends...PC Plod...two nervous young constabules obviously sent to find out why we were in this hotel (who told someone then we wondered after...)...
Passports pliss and much writing and scrutinising and a call for reinforcements...these young lads were not up to the job and Roland skilfully arguing our case in Chinese helped their nerves not one bit...
Bossman duly arrives and the discussion to'd and fro'd while the juniors continued their examination of our paperwork...writing less information down with each of us in turn...
So it seemed we shouldn't be in the hotel as it wasn't for non-Chinese. Trouble was none of the hotels for non-Chinese could accommodate us...what to do? What to do?? A compromise! That's what. We promised only to stay one night and they could have a copy of our passport...Roland disappeared downstairs with them and our poassports to the copier machine...where he proceeded to photocopy the front page of our documents...you know...the one that says this person is the bearer of...all the pictures and details being, generally, towards the rear of the document...
Finally, honours even and face retained we were able to finish the log and get to kip in preparation for the all too quickly arriving next day...
Barkam...you should go there...
Pictures: Scenery first, birds after...