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Manfrotto plate problem (2 Viewers)

birdboybowley

Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
England
OK, so I basically hate my tripod....worse £300 I've ever spent. But the worst annoyance is the availability of the little 'screw peg' that stops the telescope rotating off the attachment plate. Does anyone know where I can buy these little bugger - or use something completely different - to stop this from continually happening?? Looking online i can only buy them as part of a new plate set? So frustrating
 
They used to be sold separately, are you talking about a black plastic push in peg or the earlier metal screw in type? Otherwise a spot of Araldite should suffice. Love that such a little thing ruins a £300 system.
Good luck.
 
Have to admit I find those plates more trouble than they are worth, have lost more than one and they don't appear to be standardized. I'd rather spend a few seconds turning the screw on the old-fashioned tripods.
 
I do not understand why people still buy this Manfrotto garbage. The company insists on going their own way as far as qr-plate compatibility goes, and I have voted with my wallet a long time ago. Anything tripod from Manfrotto is a no-go for me - arca-swiss compatibility or uniq/c are the way to go..
 
The plate isn't the issue, it's the way the scope itself untwists itself without the little locking pin that sits in it
It is very frustrating I agree, without the anti rotation pin. Fortunately, my Mangrotto plates have the earlier metal ones. Might be time to consider a different head.
 
I guess thinking about it it's a joint problem with manfrotto an Swaro. Below is the scope and attachment plate, the missing screw goes into scope and plate fits over it to stop it unlocking itself
 

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I do not understand why people still buy this Manfrotto garbage. The company insists on going their own way as far as qr-plate compatibility goes, and I have voted with my wallet a long time ago. Anything tripod from Manfrotto is a no-go for me - arca-swiss compatibility or uniq/c are the way to go..
Well, that's your opinion. I've been using the Manfrotto system forever, and it works just fine. Simple as that. Arca Swiss has got it's own set of problems. I'm sure you'll run into them at some stage.

Hermann
 
Try attaching your Swarovski ‘scope directly onto the tripod head, without the quick release head. I was shown this a couple of years ago and I’ve doing it for about a year and works superbly.
That said, I didn’t have any of the trouble you seem to be suffering, never lost the peg.
 
OK, so I basically hate my tripod....worse £300 I've ever spent. But the worst annoyance is the availability of the little 'screw peg' that stops the telescope rotating off the attachment plate. Does anyone know where I can buy these little bugger - or use something completely different - to stop this from continually happening?? Looking online i can only buy them as part of a new plate set? So frustrating
I tend to agree with the sentiments above that Manfrotto RC2 quick release system isn’t terribly good. Lots of people complain of plates twisting and not remaining tightly screwed on to cameras and scopes-and consequently leading to frustration!

Manfrotto dominated the birding tripod market from the 1980s here in the UK, and it seems most birders here still use their gear. Same in Europe and N America I presume?

Familiarity breeds familiarity and all that, but that’s changing now in favour of the Arca Swiss standard which is infinitely better IMO, though, as Hermann implies, there are issues there too e.g. with mis-matching of plates and clamps from different manufacturers! They don't all work together perfectly as you would expect, but in my experience the majority do.

Personally I don’t think the Manfrotto plates are inherently bad. It’s just that the method of preventing twisting once screwed onto the plate is flawed.

Also there is no way with the RC2 plates to slide the camera or scope forward or back in the clamp to balance the system - important if you digiscope, for example.

If you are determined to stick with Manfrotto plates, this is what I would do. I’ve done this to a number of camera plates (mainly Arca type). It works well and is really simple & cheap.

In a nutshell, you cut a 1/4” 20 UNC thread into the existing hole in the Manfrotto plate (not the central hole for the camera screw). In fact you could probably do the same to each of the 3 existing holes in the plate.

Then use a 1/4” 20 grub screw instead of your anti-twist pin (the one you’ve lost)

It’s that simple!

The benefits are that it should be possible to locate the cone points of the grub screws in the existing holes in the scope foot - in particular the two holes above and below the larger one for the camera screw.
I assume that the holes in the Q/R plate will match up with those in the scope’s foot? They should, but I’m not sure if they all exactly correspond? so worth measuring accurately before going ahead…

I personally bought a drill bit that also cuts a 1/4 20 UNC thread, so that any holes I drill will also accept threaded grub screws. 1/4” 20 UNC is the size of most camera screws, so they are the ones I bought (cost about £5 for a bag of 10 from everyone’s favorite online retailer!

The drill bit I own is a DeWalt, and is illustrated in the first and second pictures. You can see it standing upright in the existing un-threaded hole in the Manfrotto plate. The drill part of the bit at the tip fits quite snugly into the hole with just a tiny bit of movement to allow it to spin freely, and I assume as this is an older Manfrotto RC2 plate, that the diameter will be the same size as the 3 holes in your plate (but do check!).

If so then all you would need to do is put the drill bit in your cordless drill and follow through in order to cut threads into the hole. You could probably even do this by hand, by putting the hex-shaped shank of the drill bit into the handle of a screwdriver (the type that accept interchangeable driver bits).

The second picture shows the DeWalt drill bit with integrated thread cutter, alongside a grub screw that fits inside the hole it creates. These grub screws are about 5mm long. Ideally they should be able to locate within the hole in the plate and not protrude above it once installed. The ones I have require an imperial allen key to tighten them in place.

I paid £17 for the drill bit (again from Amazon UK) but cheaper ones were available. A cheaper alternative still, would be something like the 1/4” 20 threading tap in pic 3, which has a 5mm diameter shank so it might fit inside a cordless drill chuck. An important point is that the latter would only cut threads in an existing hole of suitable size, whereas the DeWalt can drill and cut new threaded holes in a camera plate-wherever you need them to be.
 

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Or use other modern Manfrotto heads with a built in sliding rail and better Q /R system, rather than re engineer a troublesome old system. Horses for courses, eg personally I wouldn't fit my Swaro scope foot directly into the Q/R shoe - I've seen a couple of snapped units but that was after the kit going over. Hope it's sorted for you soon.
 
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Or use other modern Manfrotto heads with a built in sliding rail and better Q /R system, rather than re engineer a troublesome old system. Horses for courses, eg personally I wouldn't fit my Swaro scope foot directly into the Q/R shoe - I've seen a couple of snapped units but that was after the kit going over. Hope it's sorted for you soon.
That's an option but I assume you mean the long plates used in the 500AH and 502 heads? Many people like them (or use them as they are seemingly unaware of better alternatives) but the rubber mounting surface glued onto the plates is a flawed design and it still leads to the same issue of gear unscrewing itself and becoming wobbly. Not to mention the wobbly bearings in the panning axis that seem impossible to adjust on the 500AH head, once they develop a little wear.

My personal issue too, is that the plates themselves are unnecessarily large, and in the examples I have seen, they don't allow you to drop plates in from the top as you can with most Arca clamps. This might be different in newer models though?

Manfrotto gear is far from perfect when other systems are available that are simply better.

Personally I wouldn't call it re-engineering a troublesome old system, as personally I don't think the RC2 system is inherently bad-just the inability of preventing unlocking/unscrewing lets it down.
My post above might seem a little long-winded but in practice the improvements involve spending under £10 on tools and around 10 mins of work to improve something that is almost good enough already - assuming a moderate level of experience with a drill or screwdriver.
 
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That's an option but I assume you mean the long plates used in the 500AH and 502 heads? Many people like them (or use them as they are seemingly unaware of better alternatives) but the rubber mounting surface glued onto the plates is a flawed design and it still leads to the same issue of gear unscrewing itself and becoming wobbly. Not to mention the wobbly bearings in the panning axis that seem impossible to adjust on the 500AH head, once they develop a little wear.

Manfrotto gear is far from perfect when other systems are available that are simply better.

Personally I wouldn't call it re-engineering an old 'flawed design', as personally I don't think the plates themselves are inherently bad. My post above might seem a little long-winded but in practice the improvements involve spending under £10 on tools and around 10 mins of work assuming a moderate level of experience with a drill or screwdriver.
Yes, the 500AH and I did have to glue the rubber back down which seems to have done the trick. I wasn't that good at tapping and die work hence my reluctance to concur with your handiwork.
Cheers.
 
Yes, the 500AH and I did have to glue the rubber back down which seems to have done the trick. I wasn't that good at tapping and die work hence my reluctance to concur with your handiwork.
Cheers.
Like you, I've never used a tap and die before, but was surprised how easy it was to cut new threads using the above gadget. Really simple to do!

Did you, having re-glued the rubber strips, find that the scope stays in place once screwed onto the plate on the 500AH? I know a few people who struggle with this, and have seen a few negative posts here on BF about the same issue. Metal to metal gives a far more secure connection.

You're correct, it is horses for courses, and I know some people prefer the direct connection into for e.g. the 128RC2 head, but with some newer scopes coming factory fitted with an Arca foot, that might not be an option-hence the continued need to use a plate. I think that's the case with Adam's new Swaro?
 
Like you, I've never used a tap and die before, but was surprised how easy it was to cut new threads using the above gadget. Really simple to do!

Did you, having re-glued the rubber strips, find that the scope stays in place once screwed onto the plate on the 500AH? I know a few people who struggle with this, and have seen a few negative posts here on BF about the same issue. Metal to metal gives a far more secure connection.

You're correct, it is horses for courses, and I know some people prefer the direct connection into for e.g. the 128RC2 head, but with some newer scopes coming factory fitted with an Arca foot, that might not be an option-hence the continued need to use a plate. I think that's the case with Adam's new Swaro?

Mmmm, honestly, I check it fairly regularly and it has moved very slightly on the rubber, a couple of times, so I just realign. Tried some of the Gitzo heads but couldn't get on with them so have stuck with the 500AH.
Cheers.
 
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