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Zen Ray ZRS HD (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Steve C
- Start date
MichelleOhio
Well-known member
Hi, everyone. I ordered a pair of 8x42 ZRS HD's due to the reviews on this thread. I'm a beginning birder and needed something smaller than my Celestron 10x50's I use for astronomy.
The binocular arrived today, and I have one question so far...how do I make the objective lens caps fit tighter? They fall out VERY easily.
The binocular arrived today, and I have one question so far...how do I make the objective lens caps fit tighter? They fall out VERY easily.
Michelle, I have the same problem with my 10x, it's because the armoring protrudes too far beyond the metal barrels.
After a good long trial, I've decided to rate mine as decent bins FOR THE MONEY. No better, no worse. I don't know just what the problem is, but they simply refuse to get that last bit of focus.
Rather than fight them or mess with returning them for another pair or opting for an upgrade to ED's, I'll keep them until I can afford some Alpha's and then have them as a backup.
As Frank said, I think it's just that the bins and my expectations just don't jibe.
After a good long trial, I've decided to rate mine as decent bins FOR THE MONEY. No better, no worse. I don't know just what the problem is, but they simply refuse to get that last bit of focus.
Rather than fight them or mess with returning them for another pair or opting for an upgrade to ED's, I'll keep them until I can afford some Alpha's and then have them as a backup.
As Frank said, I think it's just that the bins and my expectations just don't jibe.
MichelleOhio
Well-known member
Thanks, guys. Zen-Ray is sending a "cup" for the objective lens (it goes on the outside of the barrel) instead of the kind you insert. We'll see how they work.
MichelleOhio
Well-known member
After using the new objective lens covers for a few days, I think I do like them better than the originals, but they aren't perfect, either. The entire thing likes to fall off at times when they are hanging around my neck (getting caught on clothing or hands). Still, they do seem to stay on when I want them to.
One other thing about the ZRS, when I lay the bins flat on a table the "ZR" of the tripod adapter cover is upside down. May be a small thing, but it drives me crazy.
One other thing about the ZRS, when I lay the bins flat on a table the "ZR" of the tripod adapter cover is upside down. May be a small thing, but it drives me crazy.
MichelleOhio
Well-known member
I have. 
Then the "ZR's" on the new lens covers are upside down. Can't win.
Then the "ZR's" on the new lens covers are upside down. Can't win.Zen Ray Summit 10x42
The eye lens is only 2.2mm below the outer edge of the eyecups with the eye cups down. This is approaching the danger zone for eyeglasses wearers, being very close to allow eyeglasses to come in contact with the binocular eye lens. Although I will note, my eyeglasses did not contact the eye lens with the eye cup fully retracted.
Viewing with my eyeglasses on, I need to extend the eyecups out one click for proper placement. That would indicate an eye relief of about 15-16mm, since in almost all cases I can see the full field of view in any binocular with my glasses and with a minimum of about 13mm usable eye relief.
I read some comments that these are fast focus. I thought also I read some comments that these are slow focus. Well both may be right and both may be wrong.
From closest focus (about 6ft) to 30M (100ft) focus is very slow, requiring more than 360° turn of the focus wheel.
From 30m to 100m, focus is very fast, requiring less than 45° turn of the focus wheel.
What's with the focus lock on the right diopter? I've used more than 70 binoculars and have never needed a focus lock on any diopter. It would be nice to have on the main center wheel, but that's not where they put it. Not sure what they were thinking here, but I consider this function superfluous.
Didn't measure IPD, but it is quite a wide range, and does get fairly narrow.
Loupe/ruler test seems to show full aperture.
Didn't yet measure resolution, but these come to a very fine focus. Resolution on 10mm lettering at 100 feet showed clear and sharp edged letters. All indications seem to point that these will achieve fine resolution when tested on USAF charts.
No problems at all with rubber armour or front objective stick in caps. yes rubber armour sticks out front a bit. Seems to be by design, so it can capture the lens caps in the front ridges. I couldn't shake the front lens caps loose no matter how hard I tried.
Yes, the ZR on the eyepiece straps cap is sideways. Just not a big deal for me. But, if it bothers you, since the orientation of this cap would be controlled by the depth that it screws into the bracket hole, just add a tiny thin washer and that plastic cap screw will turn in slightly less and maybe you'll get an upright ZR.
edz
The eye lens is only 2.2mm below the outer edge of the eyecups with the eye cups down. This is approaching the danger zone for eyeglasses wearers, being very close to allow eyeglasses to come in contact with the binocular eye lens. Although I will note, my eyeglasses did not contact the eye lens with the eye cup fully retracted.
Viewing with my eyeglasses on, I need to extend the eyecups out one click for proper placement. That would indicate an eye relief of about 15-16mm, since in almost all cases I can see the full field of view in any binocular with my glasses and with a minimum of about 13mm usable eye relief.
I read some comments that these are fast focus. I thought also I read some comments that these are slow focus. Well both may be right and both may be wrong.
From closest focus (about 6ft) to 30M (100ft) focus is very slow, requiring more than 360° turn of the focus wheel.
From 30m to 100m, focus is very fast, requiring less than 45° turn of the focus wheel.
What's with the focus lock on the right diopter? I've used more than 70 binoculars and have never needed a focus lock on any diopter. It would be nice to have on the main center wheel, but that's not where they put it. Not sure what they were thinking here, but I consider this function superfluous.
Didn't measure IPD, but it is quite a wide range, and does get fairly narrow.
Loupe/ruler test seems to show full aperture.
Didn't yet measure resolution, but these come to a very fine focus. Resolution on 10mm lettering at 100 feet showed clear and sharp edged letters. All indications seem to point that these will achieve fine resolution when tested on USAF charts.
No problems at all with rubber armour or front objective stick in caps. yes rubber armour sticks out front a bit. Seems to be by design, so it can capture the lens caps in the front ridges. I couldn't shake the front lens caps loose no matter how hard I tried.
Yes, the ZR on the eyepiece straps cap is sideways. Just not a big deal for me. But, if it bothers you, since the orientation of this cap would be controlled by the depth that it screws into the bracket hole, just add a tiny thin washer and that plastic cap screw will turn in slightly less and maybe you'll get an upright ZR.
edz
MichelleOhio
Well-known member
The 10x42 must have better fitting caps for some reason. One of my caps falls out when just lifting them off the table. And, if your ZR is sideways, and mine is upside down, it makes me think they just don't pay close attention to detail when installing the bracket threads. NOT the end of the world, just something I notice all the time now that it caught my attention. These are both things that do not affect the performance of the binocular...just a couple things that could be easily fixed on the next model.
Steve C
Well-known member
You can also use a rubber washer or o-ring under the adapter too.
This is a sub $200 binocular. There is other details that require attention first. If this cost twice as much maybe. Personally I don't know how the badge on the tripod adapter lines up on any of my binoculars. Never have even thought to look.
This is a sub $200 binocular. There is other details that require attention first. If this cost twice as much maybe. Personally I don't know how the badge on the tripod adapter lines up on any of my binoculars. Never have even thought to look
.
MichelleOhio
Well-known member
Well, I guess it's just me. I don't care if they cost $25.00...it's an easy thing to QC. Two more seconds on the assembly line wouldn't kill anyone, IMO. Again, though, it's not the end of the world...and I do like the binoculars for the most part.
I don't care if they cost $25.00...it's an easy thing to QC. Two more seconds on the assembly line wouldn't kill anyone, IMO. Again, though, it's not the end of the world...and I do like the binoculars for the most part.
Kevin Purcell
Well-known member
I have seen eyepiece with less than 3mm depth from eyeguard come in contact with the frontmost curvature of eyeglasses. The advantage here with the ZRS is the need (at least for me) to turn the eyecup out one notch for use with glasses.
I have rejected some binoculars for reason of insufficient depth to eyelens below edge of eyeguard. Less than 3mm needs attention. It is very much dependant on the curvature of your eyeglasses combined in conjunction with the width of the binocular eyelens. In addition to the depth to eyelens, it is important to note the potential for any exposed metal ring around the eyelens to contact eyeglasses. Some binocuars eyeguard rubber covers such metal rings. The ZRS has an exposed metal ring.
My review of various details and aspects of the ZRS 10x42 is on the Cloudy Nights binocular forum.
edz
I have rejected some binoculars for reason of insufficient depth to eyelens below edge of eyeguard. Less than 3mm needs attention. It is very much dependant on the curvature of your eyeglasses combined in conjunction with the width of the binocular eyelens. In addition to the depth to eyelens, it is important to note the potential for any exposed metal ring around the eyelens to contact eyeglasses. Some binocuars eyeguard rubber covers such metal rings. The ZRS has an exposed metal ring.
My review of various details and aspects of the ZRS 10x42 is on the Cloudy Nights binocular forum.
edz
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