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Why does my Cannon 10x42's erratic IS work better inverted? (1 Viewer)

Rathaus

Well-known member
For the first two or three years my cannons IS was a sublime device with monstrous resolving power. I saw no IS artefact that others had whispered about - just handheld clarity that could easily compete with my other alpha binos when they were mounted.

Then the IS all went off a bit...quite a lot...enough to make it not worthwhile.

Recently I've been inverting the binocular (diopters at zero) and using the IS...and much of the time it works like the old days...ruthless resolution with no perceived downside. The IS button can be touchy upside down but is generally ok.

Sometimes the IS has a small fit where it appears to 'swim' and wooze about, then suddenly doesn't perform well.

Anyway, after some upside down viewing today they behaved much of the time...the little bricks don't feel that different upside down...but full consistence of function is still not there.

I'm reluctant to send them away for so called ham fisted repairs or checks, as many would consider their impaired state to be perfectly functional.

Does anybody have any ideas...or is the reality that I've had a good 5 year run with a very good but tricked up complex instrument and should just let it be?

Cheers
Rathaus
 
.Dear Rathaus,
It sounds as if there is some problem that has developed.
If you were to send the binocular to Canon and explain the problem, then I think they would resolve it professionally, but it may cost quite a bit. Canon used to have fixed-price repairs for their image stabilised binoculars, and with an expensive model like the 10×42 L, it may well be worthwhile having this done.

Having said this, try initially to keep the current going through the electronics for one hour, or at least for half an hour, by pressing the button every five minutes or so when it switches itself off. This may be able to fix the problem or maybe not, but it is worth a try. Just leave the binocular on the table the right way up i.e. horizontally while doing this.

P. S.
As people in Australia are upside down, at least from Northerners point of view, your trick of inverting the binocular may be a good fix :).

As you found it to be such a good binocular, it would seem to me that if you can afford it, you should buy another one, and also if possible have Canon repair the one you have. Although this is expensive, you cannot really put a price on a luxury item that gives so much pleasure.
 
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Don't know if it would help, but have you tried using lithium batteries in your Canons?
They provide a little more voltage than the alkaline AAs, which might help overcome the issue you have.
 
.Dear Rathaus,
It sounds as if there is some problem that has developed.
If you were to send the binocular to Canon and explain the problem, then I think they would resolve it professionally, but it may cost quite a bit. Canon used to have fixed-price repairs for their image stabilised binoculars, and with an expensive model like the 10×42 L, it may well be worthwhile having this done.

Having said this, try initially to keep the current going through the electronics for one hour, or at least for half an hour, by pressing the button every five minutes or so when it switches itself off. This may be able to fix the problem or maybe not, but it is worth a try. Just leave the binocular on the table the right way up i.e. horizontally while doing this.

P. S.
As people in Australia are upside down, at least from Northerners point of view, your trick of inverting the binocular may be a good fix :).

As you found it to be such a good binocular, it would seem to me that if you can afford it, you should buy another one, and also if possible have Canon repair the one you have. Although this is expensive, you cannot really put a price on a luxury item that gives so much pleasure.

Good idea...I'm going to try what you suggested....I'll give those IS circuits a good non stop workout with fresh lithium current.
 
For the first two or three years my cannons IS was a sublime device with monstrous resolving power. I saw no IS artefact that others had whispered about - just handheld clarity that could easily compete with my other alpha binos when they were mounted.

Then the IS all went off a bit...quite a lot...enough to make it not worthwhile.

Recently I've been inverting the binocular (diopters at zero) and using the IS...and much of the time it works like the old days...ruthless resolution with no perceived downside. The IS button can be touchy upside down but is generally ok.

Sometimes the IS has a small fit where it appears to 'swim' and wooze about, then suddenly doesn't perform well.

Anyway, after some upside down viewing today they behaved much of the time...the little bricks don't feel that different upside down...but full consistence of function is still not there.

I'm reluctant to send them away for so called ham fisted repairs or checks, as many would consider their impaired state to be perfectly functional.

Does anybody have any ideas...or is the reality that I've had a good 5 year run with a very good but tricked up complex instrument and should just let it be?

Cheers
Rathaus
Could it be that the Canons IS were designed for countries north of the equator and since you are "Down Under" they work in reverse? Kind of like the toilet flushing in reverse.
 
.Dear Rathaus,
It sounds as if there is some problem that has developed.
If you were to send the binocular to Canon and explain the problem, then I think they would resolve it professionally, but it may cost quite a bit. Canon used to have fixed-price repairs for their image stabilised binoculars, and with an expensive model like the 10×42 L, it may well be worthwhile having this done.

Having said this, try initially to keep the current going through the electronics for one hour, or at least for half an hour, by pressing the button every five minutes or so when it switches itself off. This may be able to fix the problem or maybe not, but it is worth a try. Just leave the binocular on the table the right way up i.e. horizontally while doing this.

P. S.
As people in Australia are upside down, at least from Northerners point of view, your trick of inverting the binocular may be a good fix :).

As you found it to be such a good binocular, it would seem to me that if you can afford it, you should buy another one, and also if possible have Canon repair the one you have. Although this is expensive, you cannot really put a price on a luxury item that gives so much pleasure.

Ok I've stretched the metal contacts inside the binos out for a nice tight contact. Also some fresh lithium batteries. I also gave the IS a solid workout...even shook the binos a bit in frustration at the inconsistent IS performance.

Something interesting which is standing out -
The IS will be slightly afuzz on axis at best focus....but move things off axis with the same focus and same subject the IS starts to kick in and work well. The lenses are clean. Nearer the edge it's getting nice and sharp! Bizarre.

Any ideas welcome.
 
Maybe the variable prisms are slightly adrift at the rest position? It may be 'wear and tear'. It is a complex instrument.
If you can use it like this, fine.
 
Ok I've stretched the metal contacts inside the binos out for a nice tight contact. Also some fresh lithium batteries. I also gave the IS a solid workout...even shook the binos a bit in frustration at the inconsistent IS performance.

Something interesting which is standing out -
The IS will be slightly afuzz on axis at best focus....but move things off axis with the same focus and same subject the IS starts to kick in and work well. The lenses are clean. Nearer the edge it's getting nice and sharp! Bizarre.

Any ideas welcome.
I would send them into Canon. There is something definitely amiss and they are too complicated to diagnose yourself. Be prepare for about a $500 bill though. I have heard Canon repair is expensive on the IS. You might be better off just buying a new pair. That is the problem with the IS. When they break they are expensive to fix and the warranty period is short.
 
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I would send them into Canon. There is something definitely amiss and they are too complicated to diagnose yourself. Be prepare for about a $500 bill though. I have heard Canon repair is expensive on the IS. You might be better off just buying a new pair. That is the problem with the IS. When they break they are expensive to fix and the warranty period is short.

I can't see myself throwing five hundred bucks or more after these.

I'm yet to do a thorough test on a tripod without the IS to see if the rest is up to scratch. They have a great standard mount on a flat section underneath.

Truth is I never used them that regularly (could be the problem?), however they were very handy as the one binocular that I could fetch to use handheld which could do crazy things.......eg: does that bird have a chipped or cracked beak? What species of lice is that crawling on its back? ;)

Another thought...a couple of years ago I put these 52mm lens filter protectors (no glass) because the canon objectives are almost flush with the exterior (actually the real objectives are well recessed, but canon put another protective glass filter/seal a couple of mm recessed from the front)...the addition of the glass less filter protectors recessed this maybe a further 10mm. I'll whip them off to make sure they're not bothering the IS.

Apologies for thinking out loud...but I know there is a great deal of collective knowledge on here.
 

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I can't see myself throwing five hundred bucks or more after these.
Another thought...a couple of years ago I put these 52mm lens filter protectors (no glass) because the canon objectives are almost flush with the exterior (actually the real objectives are well recessed, but canon put another protective glass filter/seal a couple of mm recessed from the front)...the addition of the glass less filter protectors recessed this maybe a further 10mm. I'll whip them off to make sure they're not bothering the IS.

Interesting idea about the filter protectors, but as they are just glassless rings, they should be innocuous. Real filters are another story, they do impact the image, not to mention that they trap condensation.
Based on your description of the problem, it seems an inconvenience rather than disabling damage. That also makes it more difficult to diagnose for the repair people, which reduces the odds of a cure. Maybe 'grin and bear it' is the best approach.
 
Just an update on this, I've been putting the cannons through some vigorous use (a touch of roughousing even) with lithium AA batteries and they definitely seem to be coming good. They had previously sat for quite a while unused....so perhaps they don't like this.

I had them at the airport today (heavy cross wind landings) and they were close to their best. This comes as a real boon as a good working 10x42mm canon is a nice thing.

Cheers
 
.......... They had previously sat for quite a while unused....so perhaps they don't like this.
........
Cheers

Just curious if they were stored for that long time in a vertical or a horizontal position?

There was a post, maybe a year ago, saying to store the Canon IS in the horizontal position. (I do not remember if it was model specific.) Storage in the vertical position had a negative impact on the IS, but it was not permanent, and it would work itself out in a few minutes of operation. Maybe it takes longer to correct itself over prolonged storage.

I wish I could provide more detail as to what happens, but I only remember the bottom line and that is to store them horizontally. If I find the post, I will come back and post a link. Maybe someone else remembers more than I do and can provide the specifics.
 
Just an update on this, I've been putting the cannons through some vigorous use (a touch of roughousing even) with lithium AA batteries and they definitely seem to be coming good. They had previously sat for quite a while unused....so perhaps they don't like this.

I had them at the airport today (heavy cross wind landings) and they were close to their best. This comes as a real boon as a good working 10x42mm canon is a nice thing.

Cheers

The fact that your Canons been sitting awhile suggests the possibility of a gremlin problem. Gremlins often inhabit abandoned metal boxes, particularly ones that have electronic components since the little buggers have an inclination to damage or dismantle electronic devices and machinery. Many unexplained plane crashes can be attributed to gremlins.

Nightmare at 20,000 Feet

Here's how to get rid of them:

Don’t bring them into the light.
Don’t get them wet.
And whatever you do, don’t ever, EVER, feed them after midnight.

Let us know if that helps. :smoke:

Brock
 
Just curious if they were stored for that long time in a vertical or a horizontal position?

There was a post, maybe a year ago, saying to store the Canon IS in the horizontal position. (I do not remember if it was model specific.) Storage in the vertical position had a negative impact on the IS, but it was not permanent, and it would work itself out in a few minutes of operation. Maybe it takes longer to correct itself over prolonged storage.

I wish I could provide more detail as to what happens, but I only remember the bottom line and that is to store them horizontally. If I find the post, I will come back and post a link. Maybe someone else remembers more than I do and can provide the specifics.

Indeed they were/are stored vertically. I'm onto it already! Thanks for that info and suggestion.

Rathaus
 
The fact that your Canons been sitting awhile suggests the possibility of a gremlin problem. Gremlins often inhabit abandoned metal boxes, particularly ones that have electronic components since the little buggers have an inclination to damage or dismantle electronic devices and machinery. Many unexplained plane crashes can be attributed to gremlins.

Nightmare at 20,000 Feet

Here's how to get rid of them:

Don’t bring them into the light.
Don’t get them wet.
And whatever you do, don’t ever, EVER, feed them after midnight.

Let us know if that helps. :smoke:

Brock

Brock, by elevating me to the possible horrors of 20,000 feet - you have also brought me back down to earth. A hideous hairy creature chewing on the wing at 20,000 feet would be a genuine concern and does make my 'canon snivelling session' seem a tad trite.
That episode scared the heck out of me when I was a kid. Truly ghastly lol. Is that a young William Shatner? Captain Kirk wouldn't take this nonsense, he'd
have jumped onto the wing and thumped that hideous gremlin into submission.
Rathaus
 
Rathaus ... This may be the post I was thinking of:

http://www.birdforum.net/showpost.php?p=2828599&postcount=24

Here is an older thread on the subject (among other things). I am not sure if the explanation applies to all models in the series or just some.

http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=190464

Let us know if storing them horizontally for a few days improves things.

Thanks a lot for the links Bruce. I'll read them shortly...

interestingly enough, last week the canons sat horizontally for the duration of a good 6 hour car drive, rough in places, and then worked wonderfully when I arrived at a farm stay location for various creature observing....as it did last year when I was at the same location. There might be something to this.
 
. The reason that I suggested putting electricity into the binocular for one hour non-stop is because I had a new Canon image stabilised binocular that didn't work properly and kept drifting from the central point to way off centre.
It may be that it had been stored in the shop vertically, in fact this may be likely, and it didn't work properly because of this.

I improved the binocular greatly by putting electricity through it for one hour when it was horizontally on the table. I did move it around a little bit each time I pressed the button every five minutes.

I realise now that these binoculars should probably not be stored vertically, and I hope that by storing the binocular and keeping it horizontal I will get further improvements. The binocular is already nearly perfect in this respect, whereas initially I had great misgivings even though it was bought new.

It should be noted that the 18x50 is always stored horizontally, but this is by chance.
 
Rathaus ... This may be the post I was thinking of:

http://www.birdforum.net/showpost.php?p=2828599&postcount=24

Here is an older thread on the subject (among other things). I am not sure if the explanation applies to all models in the series or just some.

http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=190464

Let us know if storing them horizontally for a few days improves things.


I read those threads with great interest. Many thanks for tracking them down. Well, for me so far, after mush button pressing and then 36 hours of storage flat on their belly, the IS is pretty much perfect. This is too early to tell if my particular case will be cured by this bizarre remedy but it is working so far.

Astonishing stuff. I'd virtually written these things off as a door stop, but now there is new hope! The resolution was back to its devastating best. Watching planes on the runway at perhaps 80-100mph, resolution was so relaxed and stunningly clear I could see through one passenger window and out the opposite passenger window at the trees passing by on the other side. When working, this binocular is an amazing instrument.
Fingers crossed. I'll keep you informed. So far so good.

Rathaus
 
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