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Problems with Nikon EDG (1 Viewer)

andy.h

Member
I've had a pair of Nikon EDG 10 x 42 for just over a year so far. Although very pleased with the images they give, mine has developed a very annoying problem which I call the 'binocular droop'.

Sadly they do not hold they position when set to match the distance between my eyes, so that each time I wish to view something I have to keep readjusting them. If you hold them by one side you can watch the other slowly close down. Needless to say very frustrating.

I've had them back in for repair once already and was told that it had been an issue on previous versions of Nikon binoculars. Was wondering if anyone else had a similar issue and whether it was resolved!

Keep birding!

AndyH
 
That should be a very simple repair unless something is stripped internally. Most binoculars have a screw-off cap at the objective end of the main hinge. It is typically where the tripod adapter hole is placed. Around the hole there usually is a slot or groove that allows you to tighten or loosen central hinge tension. It has been some time since I handled the EDG so I am not sure if this is the case with them.
 
That should be a very simple repair unless something is stripped internally. Most binoculars have a screw-off cap at the objective end of the main hinge. It is typically where the tripod adapter hole is placed. Around the hole there usually is a slot or groove that allows you to tighten or loosen central hinge tension. It has been some time since I handled the EDG so I am not sure if this is the case with them.

Hi Frank,

Thanks for such a prompt reply. Have just removed the cap as you suggested. The central hole is surrounded bt 8 very small (2mm) holes in one of which I can see a head slot of a screw. If I had a small enough screwdriver could this be the screw that needs altering to improve the tension?

Many thanks,
Andy
 
That screw is likely just a set screw. It would need to be removed or loosened significantly before you tighten the central hinge. That series of 8 holes requires a spanner wrench to tighten or loosen the central hinge tension.
 
Hi Andy.

I've tightened my EDG II 10x42's hinge tension (I found it as a bit easy to move as they come from factory - at least the mine I mean) using a spanner wrench just after unscrewing those small screw there, it's very easy to do - after all I just tightned the small screw back and they are now according to my "hinge tension taste", much better!

Pedro
 
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Andy,

Do you have the older EDG I with the two hinges or the current EDG II with the one larger hinge? Being from the UK, I assume it is an EDG II since I do not think the EDG I was imported to Europe. Knowing the model may be helpful to some of the readers.

Here is a picture of the tripod screw on a Nikon EDG II 10X42, as described by Frank. It is somewhat hard to tell in the picture, but the set screw is in the top hole on the right. I thought this photo may be helpful to some responding to your issue.

Spanner: Does anyone have any specific suggestions on where to get a spanner mentioned by Shpeter (US or UK)?

Also, does the set screw have to be fully removed or just loosened?
 

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Any reason a simple double pin wrench wouldn't work after loosening the set screw? These are not costly. Hardware store might have one. Here is one from a popular american catalog.

http://www.garrettwade.com/adjustable-pin-wrench/p/29J03.03/

Bob

Bob,

I think that the distance between the two barrels is too narrow to allow that type of pin wrench to fit.

It would be possible to make a simple tool using a length of narrow steel bar, drilling 2 appropriately spaced holes (looks like 10.5mm) of the slightly smaller diameter than the holes in the fitting, then inserting round steel pins through the holes so that they stick out like the pin wrench. Its a smaller version of a power tool boss removing wrench.

Who's going to be the first one to do it?

Stan
 
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NMO Antenna Mount Spanner Wrench

I did order this inexpensive spanner wrench off eBay (US) from Dave's Hobby Shop (Davefant). One order contains four of the wrenches for $3.69, including shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221012400261?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

These wrenches are normally used to secure antenna mounts on vehicle roofs. NMO is the type of mount, also called a Motorola mount. It is a low mount with a retainer ring containing two holes. The wrench points fit in the holes to tighten the ring. I actually needed this wrench because I have a NMO mount on my truck that has come loose and I cannot find my original wrench.

The diameter of the points may be two large for the Nikon, If that is the case, I will see if I can grind the points down on one of the wrenches with a dremel tool. I will post back in a couple of weeks on how it fits.
 

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Many thanks everyone for your advice and tips. I'll certainly give it a go rather than be parted from them while in for repair!

Thanks again,

Andy
 
Hi Andy, This seems strange that this problem was not sorted out when you sent this binocular in, esp. with it only being about a year old.
 
I've had a pair of Nikon EDG 10 x 42 for just over a year so far. Although very pleased with the images they give, mine has developed a very annoying problem which I call the 'binocular droop'.

Sadly they do not hold they position when set to match the distance between my eyes, so that each time I wish to view something I have to keep readjusting them. If you hold them by one side you can watch the other slowly close down. Needless to say very frustrating.

I've had them back in for repair once already and was told that it had been an issue on previous versions of Nikon binoculars. Was wondering if anyone else had a similar issue and whether it was resolved!

Keep birding!

AndyH
If it's an EDG I sent it in to Nikon and get an EDG II at no cost to you!
 
Steve Prost makes a good point. But assuming that Andy's sample is an EDG II (he didn't say) and that Pedro also got an EDG II with a loose hinge, this is apparently a QC issue.

I tried an EDG I quite a while ago, but I don't recall any problems with the center hinge tension, but it did have a loose focuser knob. Unfortunately, no spanner could cure that ill, although Mike did say that Nikon "tightened down" on the focusers on subsequent EDG I production runs, so there must be some mechanism to tighten with the focuser, but it must be internal.

Personally, I'd rather the center hinge be factory set a bit tight rather than loose, particularly with porros since you need to change the IPD setting when moving from close to far to keep a perfect circle in the view. If you start out loose, it's going to get Toulouse after a while.

I wonder why Nikon switched from ye olde and simple slot hinge housings that could be adjusted with a simple screw driver to more complicated and specialized tool set up? What's the advantage of the latter?

<B>
 
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Hi Brock

The Mine was actually not too loose, I mean, not moving by itself as described by Andy, but as I normally like the central hinge with a good amont of tension as for example Swarovski or Leica, then I found the EDG II hinge a bit easy to move in comparison. As I have a spanner wrench here I decided to tight it a little to put it as I prefer.
The one you tried had a similar hinge tension as some Leica or Swarovski ?

Pedro
 
Hi Brock

The Mine was actually not too loose, I mean, not moving by itself as described by Andy, but as I normally like the central hinge with a good amont of tension as for example Swarovski or Leica, then I found the EDG II hinge a bit easy to move in comparison. As I have a spanner wrench here I decided to tight it a little to put it as I prefer.
The one you tried had a similar hinge tension as some Leica or Swarovski ?

Pedro

Pedro,

It was a few years ago, I don't remember how the hinge tension compared to the Swaros I've used, but if it were too lose or too tight, I would probably have remembered, because as Steve says, I'm "picky". :)

What I did notice in comparing the EDG to the 8x32 LX and what I wrote about in my mini-review was how blues were brighter in the EDG. Now that I can compare the two light graphs on allbinos, it's easy to see why:

http://www.allbinos.com/187-binoculars_review-Nikon_HG_L_8x32_DCF.html

http://www.allbinos.com/215-binoculars_review-Nikon_10x42_EDG.html

There was also a noticeable difference in CA control, although I had expected the EDG to be better in that regard than it was. I had a 10x50 ED porro that had the "cleanest" image I've seen in a 10x bin. No color fringing on crows against gray cloudy skies. With the EDG, the "sweet spot" for CA was a bit off center (top) and smaller. But the FOV was 1.5* larger, so the EP must be more complex than the 5* Celestron 10x50.

I've always seen more CA in non-ED roofs than I have in porros of equal quality, so I suspect it's harder to control CA in roofs, which is why I think ED glass was introduced to roofs whereas in porros it was overkill until you get to higher powers. The 10x42 SE, for example, is pretty "clean" for a 10x bin.

I think manufacturers were responding to the many complaints of CA in roofs. Not sure if was the introduction of internal focusers or more complex EPs or what, but not long after roofs caught on fire, so did discussions about CA in them.

I'd like to try an EDG II to see how it handles. I liked the open bridge design of the "I", but I'm not sure about the redesign. I'm still amazed that Swaro made Nikon stop production on the EDG I. With all the other brands making open bridge designs, it's still mysterious why they singled out Nikon.

<B>
 
I'd like to try an EDG II to see how it handles. I liked the open bridge design of the "I", but I'm not sure about the redesign. I'm still amazed that Swaro made Nikon stop production on the EDG I. With all the other brands making open bridge designs, it's still mysterious why they singled out Nikon.

<B>

Funny that I've never seen one mention anywhere on the internet of Swaro forcing Nikon to stop making open bridge binos - except here on BF. I remember months back of one person saying he "heard", and now it seems to have a life of it's own, and is as firmly entrenched in some peoples data base of facts, as the fact that the earth is almost round.
I guess if we say certain things often enough then certainly they can't be anything but true.
Can you point me in the direction of some news articles that confirm the rift and lawsuit???
 
In any case, Nikon's open bridge design is inferior to Swarovski's. It has a thick tripod cover jutting out from the bottom of the top bridge and a thick metal cover on the interior of the front hinge. There is less room for fingers inside. It also has metal on the objective tubes inside of the bridge opening and around the tops by the oculars whereas the Swarovski objective tubes are surrounded by leather. This could make the leather on the Nikon more susceptible to peeling.

Swarovski here:

http://www.eagleoptics.com/external/media/images/478/bin-sk-34110-m_original.jpg?1316172775

Nikon EDG I here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIKON-10-X-...CS%2BUFI%2BIIUM&otn=2&pmod=280952873059&ps=54

Bob
 
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