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Where premium quality meets exceptional value. ZEISS Conquest HDX.

Oberwerk 8x40 Mariner binocular (1 Viewer)

ksbird/foxranch

Well-known member
In porro prism binoculars I've always liked 8x30s and used them whenever possible for bird viewing and spectacle events. The 8x30 isn't for astronomy and it might even be a bit dim for early morning/late-evening viewing but overall it is handy, lightweight (usually and can be made very sharp over a very wide field of view.

I have many favorites. My Nikon 8x30 Es are excellent and very sharp, though not waterproof. The Zeiss Jena Deltrintem 1Q 8x30 is also very sharp and has a very wide field of view but also is not waterproof. I have various military Hensoldts with waterproofed bodies and wide fields, sharp images and good contrast, but they are individual eyepiece focus (which is fine when viewing from a fixed location, watching birds that are skittish) and they are often heavy (although not the Steiners). The Zeiss Oberkochen 8x30s are truly great as well but again they are not waterproof. My 8x30 Swarovskis are also exceptional although not waterproof. The Fujinon FMTR 8x30 is sharp, waterproof and has high contrast but it is IF again and weighty.

I find almost all the 8x30 roofers to be much dimmer than the 8x30 porros In fact 8x32 or even 8x36 roofers have a hard time being as bright as 8x30 porros. The Nikon 8x32 IIs and the Nikon 8x32 Superior Es are about as good as they get for sharpness and brightness in a binocular of this size. The center focus feature of the non-waterproof 8x30s allows for fast acquisition and tracking of birds in flight. I didn't know why there weren't more waterproof center focus 8x30s on the market.

There was a time when I thought the 8x40 format would be the way to go. Various 8x40s/42s/44s were usually very heavy (though not always), but they always seemed much larger than the 8x30s (stating the obvious I know). This was an area where roofers seemed better. The 8x40 roofers weren't really that much larger than the 8x30 porros but the 8x40/42 roofers weren't really that much brighter and usually they weren't sharper either. But most 8x40/42 roofers were waterproof. So I had a dilemma.

Well when one of my friends moved up to the awesome 10x42 Nikon Premier SE porros he asked if I would keep one of his other binoculars in case someone wanted them. The binoculars were the Oberwerk 8x40 Mariners. I tried them myself while showing them to someone else and I liked them allot. At a currently available retail price of about US$150 they seem to be an outstanding bargain. I had read that the Oberwerk 8x40 Mariner had a field stop/or/baffle that restricted the exit pupil to less than 5 mm. I measured this binocular myself and found that the objective lenses were a tiny bit larger than 41.5 mm in diameter and when measure with the bins set to infinity (their only really 8x position) the exit pupil was a full 5mm.

There is a baffle position back behind the objective lens, but it seems far enough back that it really doesn’t obstruct the full light collecting of the objective. Perhaps this is a technique Oberwerk uses to “use” the sharpest portion of the objective lens while allowing a wide field of view. One thing is for certain on this pair of bins, the view is exceptionally sharp. I use the 8x30 Es and the 8x30 Oberkochens as my non-waterproof standards for this test (+ the Swarovski 8x30 Habichts although they might have been produced a year or 2 before the West German Zeiss’s). The Fujinon FMTR 8x30s are my waterproof standards and the Oberwerk 8x40 Mariners are about as sharp as any of them (although the contrast on the Zeiss Obers and the sharpness fully across the field of the Nikon Es or the Fujis may be slightly better, but the field is wider on the Oberwerks by far). I looked everywhere for a country of origin and couldn’t find any marks, so I’m guessing the little foil tag saying “China” has fallen off. All in all a very fine, if heavy binocular at a very low price.

The Oberwerks are heavy and kind of chunky but handle very well. Since they are waterproof and nitrogen purged, they will work well in winter here as well as summer. The eye cups are interesting because they are purely either-or. In the locked-down position the eye lenses are 22 mm wide and a snap to use with eyeglasses to see most, if not all of the wide field. In the locked-up position 12mm higher, the eyecups provide good shading while allowing full access to the large exit pupil. The eye relief is 18mm and it is a real 18mm. The right eye lens adjustment has a thumb tab/protrusion to assist in adjusting while focusing.

I do have a few issues with this item. The objective covers are about the easiest to lose I’ve ever seen. They fit into the deep baffled area in front of the objective lenses which are recessed fully 10mm from the front lip edges. The objective covers remind me of the type most bin makers permanently attach, but these are removable with a small tab. They come out on their own quite easily. The eye lens covers are the opposite and the rubber they are made of has such low strength and integrity that both side strap loops on mine were ripped open during normal use. So now the lens covers are just another piece of removable hardware waiting to be lost.

I’m used to big heavy binoculars because my Hensoldt/Zeiss 10x50s are nearly 1400 grams and the Zeiss Marine T* 7x50s or Steiner 7x50 Marines are nearly as heavy so a bin weighing more than 1100 grams isn’t a problem since these chunky bins fit my hands and focus so well. But it is the sharpness that is impressive. The contrast is excellent also. And they are SO INEXPENSIVE it’s ridiculous for this quality. I do not know if they utilize a field flattener like the Fujis or Nikons but they are very sharp across most of the filed. I compared them to Monarch 8x42 and the Monarchs were not as sharp, although possibly as bright, and allot more expensive.
 
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Interesting comments on the Mariner 8x42. I've been testing the same binocular recently. Some of my comments for comparison are:
I agree it has a fairly sharp image, for instance, far better than the Nikon Action Extreme 8x40. This is one of its best attributes. While boosted 6x normal on-axis resolution held up extremely well, normal on-axis res was beaten out by several other 8x40s, including the Nikon Action Extreme 8x40 and the Pentax PCF WP II 8x40. I measured usable eye relief at 16mm, more than ample. At 33 ounces, it is second heaviest of a dozen 8x binoculars I have, exceeded only by an 8x56.

However, our measurement of aperture differs considerably. First I measured magnification so I could determine if exit pupil was affected by a too high magnification. At 8.05x, it's not having any considerable affect. But the exit pupil measures 4mm. This I measured by projection on a translucent plane at the eye relief distance and diameter is checked with a caliper that measures to divisions of 0.02mm. Several measures were obtained from 3.9mm to 4.0 to 4.1mm. avg 4.0mm. Also I checked clear aperture by reading a clear mm scale taped to a window, with the binocular placed directly on it, and taking readings thru the eyepiece with a 4x loupe. I get readings of 32mm of clear aperture. This reduction can come from two sources, either the prism shelf opening is too small or there is a mis-sized baffle. If it is the prism shelf, nothing you do will change the reading. But, if it is a baffle, you can move your eye off-axis to see around the baffle. Turns out in the Mariner it is a baffle. This exact same condition exists also in the Mariner 7x50 and the Mariner 10x60, I have all three. So in this case, to measure clear aperture, it is very important to carefully keep eye on axis to measure the effective aperture due to a baffle. My measurement of clear aperture with this method agrees with my measurement of exit pupil, in all three sizes. The 8x40 has the most vignette of the three. Several other people have also reported this same reduction of aperture in the 8x40 by simpler measurement of exit pupil.

So perhaps there is very inconsistent production that there could possibly be yours with 5mm exit pupil and the one I'm testing with 4mm exit pupil. But the inconsistency must be wide-spread since I know at least 3 others who have also measured 4mm exit pupil.

edz
 
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"While boosted 6x normal on-axis resolution held up extremely well, normal on-axis res was beaten out by several other 8x40s, including the Nikon Action Extreme 8x40 and the Pentax PCF WP II 8x40. "

Hi Edz

Just a question i kept meaning to ask on the Cloudy Nights Forum but will ask on BF now its been mentioned again
I realise you have/are conducting many tests on various binoculars but i note that sometimes figures regarding "boosted" resoloution are quoted
Forgive the question if this has been answered elsewhere but why does the "boosted" figure particularly matter for a lowish power hand held binocular
Is it to do with astronomy users rather than say bird/nature watchers or is it to do with tripod mounting ?
The other query i have is how come at standard resoloution an instrument can be "less sharper" on axis than another model but then fare better at "boosted " measurement
I dont quite understand how this "boosted" resoloution figure can emerge if the instrument is not as "sharp" under standard viewing

Of course not for the first time in the optics world i may well be missing a basic point but nonetheless i am intrigued over this "boosted" measurement value

Regards
RichT
 
Rich,

I'll leave it to Ed to answer for the binoculars he mentioned, but I can give you several reasons why resolution measured with "boosted" magnification and resolutuon measured at normal magnification might not show the expected relationship.

First, remember that resolution measured at boosted magnification is the resolution of the entire objective. It may be degraded by defects that affect just the outer part of the objective, and it will certainly be reduced if there is a stopdown somewhere in the binocular that effectively reduces the true aperture (like the Oberwerk "8x40" that's really an 8x32). Astronomers try to be certain they are using the entire objective aperture, but those of us who mostly use binoculars in daylight seldom use the full objective.

"Resolution" measurements at normal magnification are usually done in daylight or at least with enough light to make the resolution chart easy to read. That means the eye is acting as stopdown so that only the center 20-30mm of the objective of any 8x binocular is actually in use. That part of the objective may be quite free of defects even if the outer part of the objective is deformed by pinching or astigmatism. The center of the lens will also have lower chromatic and spherical aberrations than the full aperture because of the higher effective focal ratio of the stopped down optics. So a binocular that has poor measured resolution at boosted magnification because of objective edge defects, excessive aberrations or a stopdown might look fine at normal magnification. Add to those variables the eyesight acuity of the tester and variations in true magnification and the "resolution" figure at normal magnification becomes somewhat unpredictable from the true resolution of the instrument.

I think boosted magnification resolution tells you one useful thing among many you need to know for a full picture of a particular binocular's optical performance. That's why I also measure boosted resolution at stopped down apertures and also star test with boosted magnification to identify and evaluate particular defects and aberrations. Over the years, after measuring many binoculars, I've found boosted resolution to be a pretty good indicator of overall quality. If boosted resolution is poor that raises a red flag. I know something is wrong even if the raw resolution figure is still better than the eye can see. For instance I expect "good" 42mm binoculars to have resolution between 3 and 4 arcseconds. If a 8x42mm binocular measures 5 or 6 arcseconds that is still much better than the 12 or so arcseconds my eye can see through an 8x instrument, but it is very probable that particular binocular is defective in some way that a star test will reveal. It may seem odd, but I find someone else's simple measurement of "resolution" at normal magnification, taken alone, to be relatively useless.

Henry
 
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Hi Henry

Thanks for that very informative reply which has "enlightened" me somewhat
In fairness i had thought about this after my post to Edz and in a far less "technically" understood way realised there is value in boosted resoloution
I asked the question mainly to try to work out whether one binocular was perhaps a bit better than another ie Nikon Ae 8 x 40 or Oberwerk Mariner 8 x 40 and Edz findings initially threw me a little into thinking the Oberwerk may not be quite the binocular i have seen as suggested by some folk
But i based this on the "on axis " normal resoloution sharpness and can at least partially now see this comparison has many other factors
I am still somewhat intrigued by the Oberwerk Mariner 8 x 40 though and would be interested in any owner or test comments on this model as boosted or normal resoloution tests are only a small part of the equation in deciding if a binocular is of decent "quality"
Edz i know they are certainly heavy brutes but i'm getting the feeling they may also be strongly built
I am always a little baffled about "waterproof" stated porros but perhaps they are well sealed ?

Regards
RichT
 
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