Keeping binoculars steady (1 Viewer)

[Peter 255]

I have recently bought canon 10x30is binoculars, because I have quite shaky hands, but I am not overly satisfied with the optics. Can anyone give me tips on how to hold my binoculars steady, if I were to buy another pair of non IS binoculars?

 

[Tero]

Actually, there is not much you can do. Some models place your hands such that there is the least support, elbows way out. Try a few pairs. A standard 10x42 roof is pretty easy to hold.

Heavier pairs, wel balanced, work hest, at up to 700f, then it gets too much work to hold them long above 700g.

 

[matt green]

Maybe try a lightweight pair of 7x42's?

I've handled a few 10x bins, some of them have superb optics but all suffer from handshake ..coming down to a 7x makes a lot of difference, though unfortunely some of the better ones are also quite heavy (swarovski SLC, leica trinovid etc)

A compact 8x32 might make a good compromise?

Matt

 

[Tero]

Right, sure. I assumed he wanted 10x, but in truth, 8x is nearly as good, and 8,5x is almost the same as 8x. Not worth the extra money for the purpose of getting 8,5x. That is, they are OK, but the 8,5x is not needed. An 8x32 is pretty good for a second pair.

 

[John P]

Can anyone give me tips on how to hold my binoculars steady, if I were to buy another pair of non IS binoculars?

Finn stick?

 

[KorHaan]

Finn stick?

I agree; a Finn stick should give ample support with 8x or even 10x mag.
A smooth focus wheel is important to set as little pressure as possible on the bins when used on a Finn stick.

Greetings, Ronald

 

[Chris Oates]

I use 8.5 x 44 and put my hands as far forward as I can on the barrels.
I often see people with very large bins holding them with their hands quite close to their eyes leaving a lot of unsupported weight.
Now that all camera lenses are auto focus I also see people with long telephotos' with both hands on the camera body and nothing supporting the lens.
Also people stand with their elbows out like wings when they should have them close together in front of their chest.
You can buy a chest-pod but that, for me, would be to slow - if I want really good steady views I take a tripod & scope.
8.5 bins are a good compromise and more useable in woodland.

 

[Barred Wobbler]

The last time I was in wooded land where I needed to hold my bins to my eyes for long periods (long enough to make my arms ache) watching a particular place for a rarity that had been frequenting the place to pass a gap in a walled garden (it never appeared), I took a stick from a nearby dead bush. I chose one straight enough and long enough so that when I rested the tip on the ground at my feet I could stand supporting my left hand on the staff and the weight of the bins at eye level.

It made a hell of a difference to both steadiness and arm fatigue.

It didn't make the bird materialise.

 

[oathkeeper]

The last time I was in wooded land where I needed to hold my bins to my eyes for long periods (long enough to make my arms ache) watching a particular place for a rarity that had been frequenting the place to pass a gap in a walled garden (it never appeared), I took a stick from a nearby dead bush. I chose one straight enough and long enough so that when I rested the tip on the ground at my feet I could stand supporting my left hand on the staff and the weight of the bins at eye level.

It made a hell of a difference to both steadiness and arm fatigue.

It didn't make the bird materialise.

Basically, a make-do monopod, eh? I guess a monopod would provide the best support in the field if one needs to observe for extended periods of time... Yes?

 

[Peter 255]

Thanks for all your answers, I think I'll settle for some low magnification. I think a monopod would be quite annoying.

 

[John Cantelo]

I've seen a gizmo for just this problem in one of the latest 'popular' monthly birding magazines here in the UK ('Birdwatch' or 'Birdwatching' - I forget which). Essentially it was a T-shaped monopod allowing you to rest your elbows on the crossbar. Looked damn silly to me and more of an encumberance than a help, but who knows it might actually work! Personally I solved this problem a few years back by opting for 8x bins rather than x10s,

John

 

[black lark]

forget IS bionoculairs, its is not the way to go, for birding is 10x42 best , 10x50 also and at least 8x42. I have not any problem with the weight .

 

[NWBirder]

get a tripod adapter?

 

[KorHaan]

Thanks for all your answers, I think I'll settle for some low magnification. I think a monopod would be quite annoying.

When I want to go out birding with just a pair of bins, I always take a collapsable stool as well, lightweight and easy to carry in a small rucksack or on a long strap, the way you'd carry a bino case; it's useable in two positions, in the lowest position I can sit down and comfortably rest my elbows on my knees, and thus get shakefree images using my bins. Very comfortable for prolonged viewing as well.
In the upmost position ( legs fully extended ) it's a comfortable sitting position in case I want prolonged viewing with my scope.
They call it The Walkstool, it's made in Sweden and very sturdy though small and lightweight.

Just another thought:

if you're after a pair of non-IS bins, a good balance/handholding may make a lot of difference in providing a shakefree image. For example, when I tried both Swarovski EL 8,5 x 42 and EL 10 x 32, the 10x gave me less shake than the 8,5. It's a personal thing but to me the grip on the 10x was better.
I've had low-mag porro's like 7x50 which gave me more shake than the slender, lightweight ( 700 grams ) 10x roofs I'm currently using, just because the big porro's were too much to hold.
My former FL's 7x42 with their rather bloated and forward-heavy barrels were more difficult to steady than my 10x roofs; small hands, big hands, it really matters, I think.

Greetings, Ronald

 

[Tvc15_2000]

Monopod, leaning on something or against something, and while standing keeping my elbows forward and tucking them into my waist for support.

I found with practice I can get better at "seeing" detail even if there is some motion.

I see better views with my 10x and love them!