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Good grief, can someone tell me the secret to getting the little NLPure FP strap attachment back on? (4 Viewers)

dwever

Well-known member
Good grief, can someone tell me the secret to getting the little NLPure FP strap attachment back on? I press down and turn counterclockwise to get it off with ease; now, I can’t get it to take in the opposite direction.

On a positive note, the NL Pures fit in the cargo pocket of a large Sitka Parka.

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Don't ask me I had to go back to the shop I bought them from to get my strap attached .... and, despite being experienced Swarovski stockists, they took 20 minutes to do it. The NLs may be superb in many respects but the strap attachment is a needlessly over-engineered monstrosity. The only purpose it seems to serve is to make it more difficult to use alternative straps/harnesses. I thought that the alternative (as per the photo) seemed a bit too flimsy ....
 
It is difficult because you have to push it in hard and twist it at the same time and there isn't much surface area to grip unless you have the grip of a Gorilla. What worked for me was one of those silicone gripper jar openers because it allowed me to get a better grip on the strap attachment. Like this one.

 

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It is very easy when you do it right. Before you push the Pin tight in you have to see that the Pin is in the right Position!
Bring the Pin in the right position with turning them around until the Pin fits in the hole. Than push the Pin tight and turn it clockwise until you hear a click. It can be helpful to take a rubbery thing (rubber Gloves) that your Finger habe more grip on the pin. So it will work much easier.
When you do it at the first time it can be difficult. I change often between the Standard String and the Harness. It is no problem and will work in one Minute... This System is superb and very robust. It has to go stiff because it must be saftey in use!
 
Come on, Dennis, confess that you are getting paid by Zeiss, claiming that a JAR OPENER is needed to fix a Swarovski strap.
 
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1. Make sure the pin is pushed into the strap attachment all the way, before you attempt attaching the pin into the binocular. If it hasn't clicked into that strap attachment, then the pin is not far enough into the strap attachment and the strap is not ready to attach.
2. Then, look at the plastic head portion of the pin, the part you turn, and you will see some knurling consisting of small lines on the perimeter. When you push in and turn, place your index finger and thumb on opposite sides on those lines. To be exact, pinch together the inside of the end of your index finger's distal phalanx and the inside of your thumb as you grip just the knurling. By using the knurling, you shouldn't need a rubber gloves or a gripper. On the other hand, if you are applying pressure to the smooth center portion, it may slip or not turn. (If you look above at the beginning of Swarovski instructional video, you will see the correct position for the correct grip, which makes it much easier.
3. Push in first, then turn clockwise to tighten while maintaining the pressure inward, until it won't turn any more. At that point there is a bit of a click.
4. When removing the strap, you will use the knurling again in the same way to apply inward pressure, before turning counter clockwise. If, at first, it won't turn, apply more inward pressure on knurling before turning.
5. When you think you are done, release the inward pressure and try turning the pin. It shouldn't turn if you have done all this correctly. If it still turns, push in again and turn some more until it doesn't. My point with this step, is it is good idea to check that you have done it right to avoid any accidental detachment.

(It is sort of like a child-proof medicine bottle cap. However, until you get the hang of it, it is more of an adult-proof cap)

I should mention one other thing, which is probably obvious, but wasn't to me. When you first get your binoculars and figure out how to remove the pin, you must also remove the trim rings that are attached to the binoculars with the pins. I had tried attaching my strap over these rings, which obviously wasn't going to work.
 
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1. Make sure the pin is pushed into the strap attachment all the way, before you attempt attaching the pin into the binocular. If it hasn't clicked into that strap attachment, then the pin is not far enough into the strap attachment and the strap is not ready to attach.
2. Then, look at the plastic head portion of the pin, the part you turn, and you will see some knurling consisting of small lines on the perimeter. When you push in and turn, place your index finger and thumb on opposite sides on those lines. To be exact, pinch together the inside of the end of your index finger's distal phalanx and the inside of your thumb as you grip just the knurling. By using the knurling, you shouldn't need a rubber gloves or a gripper. On the other hand, if you are applying pressure to the smooth center portion, it may slip or not turn. (If you look above at the beginning of Swarovski instructional video, you will see the correct position for the correct grip, which makes it much easier.
3. Push in first, then turn clockwise to tighten while maintaining the pressure inward, until it won't turn any more. At that point there is a bit of a click.
4. When removing the strap, you will use the knurling again in the same way to apply inward pressure, before turning counter clockwise. If, at first, it won't turn, apply more inward pressure on knurling before turning.
5. When you think you are done, release the inward pressure and try turning the pin. It shouldn't turn if you have done all this correctly. If it still turns, push in again and turn some more until it doesn't. My point with this is step, is it is good idea to check that you have done it right to avoid any accidental detachment.

(It is sort of like a child-proof medicine bottle cap. However, until you get the hang of it, it is more of an adult-proof cap)

I should mention one other thing, which is probably obvious, but wasn't to me. When you first get your binoculars and figure out how to remove the pin, you must also remove the trim rings that are attached to the binoculars with the pins. I had tried attaching my strap over these rings, which obviously wasn't going to work.
Your well thought out instructions should be added to the Swarovski manual. It would help countless poor souls when they try to install the FP lugs.
 
On my first attempt working the FP attachment I could't get it to work. So I looked at the manual and the instructions couldn't be any simpler, some words and pictures.

The key is to snap the pin through the button first, then attach the strap to the binocular. If you put the button on the bino first, the pin won't go through the button. Pretty simple, when in doubt . . .check the manual?
 
On my first attempt working the FP attachment I could't get it to work. So I looked at the manual and the instructions couldn't be any simpler, some words and pictures.

The key is to snap the pin through the button first, then attach the strap to the binocular. If you put the button on the bino first, the pin won't go through the button. Pretty simple, when in doubt . . .check the manual?
That's only part of the solution. Some NL examples have very tight connectors and pushing in the pin with bare hands is close to impossible. As mentioned in a previous post, a pair of rubber gloves or similar would be useful, which Swaro should have included in the box, besides the brush and soap....Anyway I guess the main idea of all of this is that once you managed to mount the strap you are stuck with the binos, unless you are brave enough to reverse the process and try to remove the strap.
 
On my first attempt working the FP attachment I could't get it to work. So I looked at the manual and the instructions couldn't be any simpler, some words and pictures.

The key is to snap the pin through the button first, then attach the strap to the binocular. If you put the button on the bino first, the pin won't go through the button. Pretty simple, when in doubt . . .check the manual?
I agree that it isn't hard once you read and understand the instructions. But, it's all in the details, which makes this work easily or not. Pictures are worth a thousand words, they say. Sometimes, however, just a few additional words with the pictures would help one understand critical points in the picture. For example, we can all see the correct grip needed in their video and in the manual. However, the manual should mention that the knurling on the the pin is where you grip the pin when pushing and turning. Why explain the obvious? Most of us are accustomed to opening medicine bottles by pressing in on the center of the lid while turning. Therefore, we may fail to see the obvious in the picture, that it's not the quite the same with this pin. It needs to pointed out that with the pin , unlike a medicine bottle, you need to grip the outside knurling and not the center. Otherwise, you will likely struggle.
 
Interesting. I just tried both sides on my 8x32 FP. Off and on three times. Just pinch the piin between thumb and forefinger. First time off was pretty tight. After that no problem. It appears to be spring loaded so push, then twist, but as the instructions point, once turning there's no need to push anymore, just wait for the click. Kind of like a bayonet mount camera lens.
 
Interesting. I just tried both sides on my 8x32 FP. Off and on three times. Just pinch the piin between thumb and forefinger. First time off was pretty tight. After that no problem. It appears to be spring loaded so push, then twist, but as the instructions point, once turning there's no need to push anymore, just wait for the click. Kind of like a bayonet mount camera lens.
The FPs connectors are not as tight as those of the NLs. I have never had any problem with the pins of the FPs but Swaro has tried to prevent the twisting of the strap and made the connection much tighter for the NLs. But I should note that there is like always sample variation: I had an NL 10x42, possibly an earlier example, for which mounting the strap with bare hands was very difficult, but also an 8x42 for which the connection was not as tight as for the 10x42.
 
That's only part of the solution. Some NL examples have very tight connectors and pushing in the pin with bare hands is close to impossible. As mentioned in a previous post, a pair of rubber gloves or similar would be useful, which Swaro should have included in the box, besides the brush and soap....Anyway I guess the main idea of all of this is that once you managed to mount the strap you are stuck with the binos, unless you are brave enough to reverse the process and try to remove the strap.
It's definitely very possible to do this with bare hands. You don't need rubber gloves. In fact, it is quite easy if you just grip only the knurling on the perimeter of the pin connector. Try it, if you haven't. People with arthritis in their fingers, may, however, still have a problem. I would agree that the connectors on the NL are a bit tighter than those on the FP EL. With the FP EL Swaro included an extra set of pins, because some people reported losing theirs. No extra pins were included with my NLs, because they apparently fixed the issue.
 
It's definitely very possible to do this with bare hands. You don't need rubber gloves. In fact, it is quite easy if you just grip only the knurling on the perimeter of the pin connector. Try it, if you haven't. People with arthritis in their fingers, may, however, still have a problem. I would agree that the connectors on the NL are a bit tighter than those on the FP EL. With the FP EL Swaro included an extra set of pins, because some people reported losing theirs. No extra pins were included with my NLs, because they apparently fixed the issue.
You mean it was possible for your example of NLs; for mine it was not, and btw I have reasonably strong hands/fingers.
Manufacturing the connectors/pins of the NLs, which have stricter tolerances than the FP's, inevitably leads to sample variation and this not only from one pair to another but even between the tubes of the same binos! Here is an older post by
John Cantelo that illustrates the latter case:

"Having collected a pair of NL bins earlier today I've not had time to test them thoroughly but I have to say that (apparently like other models) the method by which the neck strap is attached is ridiculously over designed and hideously fiddly to attach. In fact, I couldn't attach the strap at all although, to be fair, my dexterity and grip is poor following several operations on both hands. So, to my embarrassment, I had to return to the shop where I bought them (happily only a 10 minute walk). However, any embarrassment I felt was largely dissipated when the staff in the shop, despite familiarity with Swarovski binoculars, spent over five minutes struggling to fix one attachment and then over 20 minutes to sort out the other. The lug just wouldn't click in place and required more force and a tighter grip than I could muster for it to behave. So my advice if you're in any doubt is to get the staff to attach the strap!"
 
Good grief, can someone tell me the secret to getting the little NLPure FP strap attachment back on? I press down and turn counterclockwise to get it off with ease; now, I can’t get it to take in the opposite direction.

On a positive note, the NL Pures fit in the cargo pocket of a large Sitka Parka.

View attachment 1375338 View attachment 1375339
If you can live with slightly looser connectors my advice is to ask Swaro to send you a pair of longer pins. They sent me 2 pins that are longer than those of the NLs by about 1mm, I cannot remember from which model but Swaro people should know. Mounting the NL strap using those longer pins is a walk in the park.
 
You mean it was possible for your example of NLs; for mine it was not, and btw I have reasonably strong hands/fingers.
Manufacturing the connectors/pins of the NLs, which have stricter tolerances than the FP's, inevitably leads to sample variation and this not only from one pair to another but even between the tubes of the same binos! Here is an older post by
John Cantelo that illustrates the latter case:

"Having collected a pair of NL bins earlier today I've not had time to test them thoroughly but I have to say that (apparently like other models) the method by which the neck strap is attached is ridiculously over designed and hideously fiddly to attach. In fact, I couldn't attach the strap at all although, to be fair, my dexterity and grip is poor following several operations on both hands. So, to my embarrassment, I had to return to the shop where I bought them (happily only a 10 minute walk). However, any embarrassment I felt was largely dissipated when the staff in the shop, despite familiarity with Swarovski binoculars, spent over five minutes struggling to fix one attachment and then over 20 minutes to sort out the other. The lug just wouldn't click in place and required more force and a tighter grip than I could muster for it to behave. So my advice if you're in any doubt is to get the staff to attach the strap!"
Actually I have attached straps to 3 different NLs. That's not a large enough sample, perhaps. However, they were all tighter than the FP El, but not all that different from each other. I am 77 years old without the grip strength I used to have. Yet, with the right grip, I did it. With the wrong grip, I couldn't.

As far as a Swarovski dealer struggling to attach the strap is not surprising. How many of them would even bother to first read the instructions, when they are supposed to know it all?
 

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