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digiscoping with Olympus E-PL3 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter aratinga
- Start date
It should be.
Ammadoux,
The equivalent focal length would depend on which eyepiece you were using on your scope. If, say, you were using a 30x then the efl you'd get would be 30 x (28-84), ie 840-2520mm. At least that's the way I understand it.
Be aware though that 4/3 size sensors are quite light-hungry when it comes to digiscoping. Some people get excellent results on scopes with large (80mm and upwards) objective lenses but even then they generally need to bump up the ISO to achieve decent shutter speeds. In this respect the Oly Pens are let down by the fact that they use a now rather outdated Panasonic sensor, not known for its high ISO capabilities.
David
The equivalent focal length would depend on which eyepiece you were using on your scope. If, say, you were using a 30x then the efl you'd get would be 30 x (28-84), ie 840-2520mm. At least that's the way I understand it.
Be aware though that 4/3 size sensors are quite light-hungry when it comes to digiscoping. Some people get excellent results on scopes with large (80mm and upwards) objective lenses but even then they generally need to bump up the ISO to achieve decent shutter speeds. In this respect the Oly Pens are let down by the fact that they use a now rather outdated Panasonic sensor, not known for its high ISO capabilities.
David
Bowerbird1
Member
Hi everyone,
It would be nice to see a shootout comparison between such a 4/3 digiscoping setup at 840mm equivalent and the new Canon superzoom SX40HS also 840mm equivalent on full zoom and perhaps with a raynox converter added for extra zoom.
Would the digiscoping setup come out on top in terms of image sharpness? as it gives up a lot in terms of cost, weight and flexibility.
Perhaps Neil can provide an answer as he has already played with the SX40.
Cheers
Mark
It would be nice to see a shootout comparison between such a 4/3 digiscoping setup at 840mm equivalent and the new Canon superzoom SX40HS also 840mm equivalent on full zoom and perhaps with a raynox converter added for extra zoom.
Would the digiscoping setup come out on top in terms of image sharpness? as it gives up a lot in terms of cost, weight and flexibility.
Perhaps Neil can provide an answer as he has already played with the SX40.
Cheers
Mark
Mark,
I wish you wouldn't put so much pressure on me when I have a sore knee.
As it happens I had the Panasonic G1 Plus 100 - 300 zoom and the SX40HS out in the field yesterday. I also took out the Nikon V1 but I wasn't digiscoping as I was on crutches so had to travel light.
Everyone can see the results from the various cameras by looking at the reviews (eg DPReview ) but operating out in the field for bird photography is a different story, and digiscoping is another level of complexity.
The Panasonic G1 is getting a bit long in the tooth now. It was never that great for bird photography as the frame rate wasn't fast enough for action shots and the buffering was too slow. The SX40HS , while not quite as good quality wise ( small sensor ) has an 8 frames per second burst speed which is great for catching Kentish Plovers and Peregrines in flight ( see video here http://www.flickr.com/photos/7892550@N03/6288335611/in/photostream/ ).
The Nikon 1 V1 is even faster , with 10,30,60 fps burst rates. I tested the 10 and 30 yesterday and it was amazing. AF was fast too and the Electronic Viewfinder is great. I wouldn't bother any more with a camera which doesn't have a hi rez EVF.
It's still a bit early to make definitive decisions as I haven't digiscoped in the field with the V1 and the Fuji X10 could be a good contender. To be fair to Micro Four Thirds the newer cameras should be a lot better than the G1 too.
Here are a few from yesterday. The wagtail was a grab shot and he was only there for 3 seconds. I would'nt have got the the wagtail and Peregrine flight shot ( it's only 4.5 seconds but I slowed it down ) without the SX40HS. Egrets and herons were shot from the hide at distances or 80 to 120 meters.
The IS on the SX40HS is so good that you can take videos at 840 mm hand held.
Neil
Hong Kong,
China.
Oct 2011
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7892550@N03/
Photos from Yesterday
The photos didn't load in my previous answer. The G1 Grey Heron image (4th) says 634 mm in the exif. The second photo is with the G1 also at 634 mm. The first was taken with the V1 and the third and fifth with the SX40HS.
Neil.
The photos didn't load in my previous answer. The G1 Grey Heron image (4th) says 634 mm in the exif. The second photo is with the G1 also at 634 mm. The first was taken with the V1 and the third and fifth with the SX40HS.
Neil.
Attachments
One thing that is forgotten when looking at shots and comparing cameras is 'locale'.... Not cameras . Locale dictates 'sun and light' and as stated by many concerning digiscoping....it helps tremendously to have light. Keep that in mind.... One person in one sunny locale will have super shots with a camera / digiscoping set-up while another will have completely opposite results.
Not to say the sun doesn't shine everywhere but how much and when it shines varies. So as we test these cameras and practice the art of digiscoping....keep that in mind when looking at your personal results.
Not to say the sun doesn't shine everywhere but how much and when it shines varies. So as we test these cameras and practice the art of digiscoping....keep that in mind when looking at your personal results.
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agree. Years ago when trying to learn the 3dsmax software, I came across some numbers, not sure it was in Lumen (or candela)(measured the intensity of the sunlight I think) but it said that northen europe had approx. 2500/3000 lumen, southern europe about 5000 and the equator approx 8000 or so.
Jens,
It was the Panasonic 100 - 300/4 - 5.6 zoom http://www.dpreview.com/products/panasonic/lenses/panasonic_100-300_4-5p6
Neil.
I looked that up but couldn't find any source to back up those figures but from my understanding you are on the right track. I would think that lumens would be related to solar intensity---similar to what is needed to generate solar power etc... Makes sense.
if that is the case..simply google Solar Intensity Resource Map and you will find several maps showing the best places in the world for solar energy, and I am guessing light in general.
Anyhow...all science and beyond me in that scale but what I do know is that if I leave Washington State in the Pacific Northwest of USA...and go down to California...or Baja or Florida...it is a heck of a lot easier to take photos, camera + lens or...I am sure digiscoping. Thus my point is that when reviewing cameras and scopes etc... Not only does the camera have to match the scope but in order to see how a camera will react with your scope and in your locale, it is best to test it...can't rely on someone else in another 'far sunnier or far less sunny' locale as results will differ.
I never travel to digiscope, mainly because I haven't enjoyed the plane ride with all my gear.... but I should try digiscoping in California, Arizona or Florida (to name a few in the US)...to see how light in those areas effects photo performance compared to that here in Washington State. .....
The second law of digiscoping states that " the better the birds the worse the light".
The best light I've found travelling around has been Arizona in winter in the early morning and late afternoon. You can digiscope up to several hundred yards and get good record shots. The worse light I've had digiscoping is here in Hong Kong in late winter/early Spring with mists/pollution and drizzle. Similar to Pacific NW if you added pollution.
The first law of digiscoping compounds the second law. It states " The better the bird the further away it is" .
If I could digiscope in only one place every year I would go to Florida in Springtime.
Buy the lightest tripod that Gitzo make with the Manfrotto 701 head and check it in. Carry your scope and camera in a backpack with your ipad and you'll have no problems.
For more on the laws of Digiscoping , you can get my book " Digiscoping - a more frustrating hobby than golf"
Neil
Love it Neil.... And I hate golf-
.... But yes.... You are true. Digiscoping or camera/lens usually implies great birds equal either distance or a ton of foliage in the way.
I am going to try traveling with it though....like you...I find digiscoping the best....jim
.... But yes.... You are true. Digiscoping or camera/lens usually implies great birds equal either distance or a ton of foliage in the way.I am going to try traveling with it though....like you...I find digiscoping the best....jim
Bowerbird1
Member
Hi Neil
Thanks for trying out the SX40 (& converter) vs digiscoping options despite your gammy knee. Looks like the SX40 holds up well.
I think I might have hijacked this thread somewhat, I haven't tried digiscoping despite owning a Leica Apo77, so I am a lurker on this forum. I was more looking at lightweight options when travelling to lugging scope, tripod, bins, slr & long lenses especially when visiting the tropics.
Of course I am looking for that camera that breaks through your laws on digiscoping.
I just noticed over on Dpreview (Canon Talk) Stephen Ingraham has an interesting post on using the SX40 photographing small forest birds in Delaware http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1010&thread=39708896
Some nice results there.
Cheers
Mark
Thanks for trying out the SX40 (& converter) vs digiscoping options despite your gammy knee. Looks like the SX40 holds up well.
I think I might have hijacked this thread somewhat, I haven't tried digiscoping despite owning a Leica Apo77, so I am a lurker on this forum. I was more looking at lightweight options when travelling to lugging scope, tripod, bins, slr & long lenses especially when visiting the tropics.
Of course I am looking for that camera that breaks through your laws on digiscoping.
I just noticed over on Dpreview (Canon Talk) Stephen Ingraham has an interesting post on using the SX40 photographing small forest birds in Delaware http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1010&thread=39708896
Some nice results there.
Cheers
Mark
