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Difference between Kenko DGX and DG converters? (1 Viewer)

Hor Kee

Penang birder
Dear all,

I have a Canon EOS 600D with an EF 400mm F5.6L USM lens. I'm planning to get a Kenko TC for the extra reach. Would like to retain AF, as always.

What are the differences between the Kenko TCs with DGX and DG designations? I have noticed that the Pro 300 1.4x series has both DG and DGX on its label.

Further, I have noticed that some of the older make TCs e.g. the MC7 have the designation "AF" while the (newer?) TCs with the DGX label don't have the AF designation. Is this of any significance?

Would appreciatesome help here.

Thanks,

Hor Kee
 
There may be others who know more, and to be honest I am not an expert on Kenko, but I believe the green dot is on the DGX series, not the DG series. The DGX allows the EXIF to record the correct "new" focal length unlike the DG that does not BUT otherwise is optically very similar if not identical.

There was a problem with some DGX's and Kenko adapted the design and issued the new version of the DGX with a green dot on it. There may even be a blue dot version out there...."

Hope it helps.

Michael
 
The DGX fools the camera AF into thinking that the TC is not there.

This allows the camera to try to AF at over f5.6 thus the 600D will try to AF (and will succeed in good light) with the 1.4x DGX.

With the 1.4x DG autofocus will not work at all.
 
Anyone care to share how they get the best performance using a DGX on a 5.6 lens with a non pro body? I just got one. I think people mentioned they will get better focus by using a non centered one.

My first trials (admittedly just for 15 minutes in the backyard) were not so positive. I could get some sharp focus but several time I had to bump the focus button and slightly change what I was focusing on to get it to lock. Is that how it works for most?

I was using it on a 7D with the 400 f5.6 lens.

Thanks
Doug
 
Kenko DGX is the new series, it consists of DGX Pro 1.4X (5 elements) and 2X MC7, and DGX (non-pro) 1.4 MC4, 2XMC4 and 2X MC7
I don't have all the Kenko TCs, but I have the 1.4DG Pro, and the 2XDGX MC7 (Not pro version). (and also a Tamron 1.4XSP, which is very similar to the DG Pro).
I found the DG 1.4 Pro (and Tamron 1.4 SP) acts the same as my Canon EFII and will only AF with lens of f4 or brighter.
The short menu of my DGX MC7 2X states that it will AF with Lens of f4 or brighter too, ie. will AF at a combine F number of 8, and it does with my 300 f4, but I find the AF is jumpy, and the IQ is not too good. I have no idea whether the Pro version 2X will do the same. On a closer look, the non-pro version 2XMC7 has 5+3 pins on the lens reception site, and equal numbers on the camera connecting end. But looking at the pro version in the link below, (the 1.4X) has clearly 8+3 on the lens connecting end (same as my Canon 1.4 and 2X. So I really doubt if the Pro version can AF at a combined minimal f number of 8.
I need to get hold of one and try it out, but have to wait till Oct when I go back to Hong Kong as I have a familiar photo dealer there.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002C6QC3E
 
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The DGX Pro WILL AF at f8 on most cameras:
1. xxxD series (500D, 550D etc.) using all AF points
2. older xxD cameras (10D, 20D, 30D) using all AF points
3. 40D, 50D, 7D using peripheral points (on the 40D it would be all points except the central one, on the 7D it would be all except the central 5 ones). What I do is to select one point manually, except the ones that will not AF, and use that one.

All of the above are from personal testing and not speculation or reading things online.
 
The DGX Pro WILL AF at f8 on most cameras:
1. xxxD series (500D, 550D etc.) using all AF points
2. older xxD cameras (10D, 20D, 30D) using all AF points
3. 40D, 50D, 7D using peripheral points (on the 40D it would be all points except the central one, on the 7D it would be all except the central 5 ones). What I do is to select one point manually, except the ones that will not AF, and use that one.

All of the above are from personal testing and not speculation or reading things online.

Good news! This is what I want to know, thanks. And then how do you find the Image quality?
 
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Thanks guys! I've ordered a Kenko Pro 300 1.4x DGX for my lens today.

Just for curiosity's sake, is there any perceivable difference between the Pro 300 2x DGX and the MC7 DGX? I did not like the washed-out results of the Pro 2x with poor contrast. It still managed to AF at F11 though! Any idea how these compare with the MC4 DGX series?

Kenko TCs are really diverse and sometimes confusing indeed!
 
Thanks guys! I've ordered a Kenko Pro 300 1.4x DGX for my lens today.

Just for curiosity's sake, is there any perceivable difference between the Pro 300 2x DGX and the MC7 DGX? I did not like the washed-out results of the Pro 2x with poor contrast. It still managed to AF at F11 though! Any idea how these compare with the MC4 DGX series?

Kenko TCs are really diverse and sometimes confusing indeed!

The PRO DG and DGX give better results than the MC4 and MC7

The PRO versions will work very well IF you have a lens that is sharp to start with.

For example, I get excellent results with the Kenko 2x PRO DG and the new Sigma 120-300mm OS
 
The PRO DG and DGX give better results than the MC4 and MC7

The PRO versions will work very well IF you have a lens that is sharp to start with.

For example, I get excellent results with the Kenko 2x PRO DG and the new Sigma 120-300mm OS

Thanks for the feedback. I found the Pro 300 2x DGX to result in rather 'washed-out' colours on my 400mm F5.6L. Did not compare it to the Canon 2X TC though. I guess with this lens aperture it would be best to use the 1.4x.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I found the Pro 300 2x DGX to result in rather 'washed-out' colours on my 400mm F5.6L. Did not compare it to the Canon 2X TC though. I guess with this lens aperture it would be best to use the 1.4x.

It is the lens that causes the 'washed-out' colours and not the TC.
A 2x TC is a bit too much for the 400mm 5.6 IMHO
 
Any idea of the 2X Pro DGX with the Canon 300 f4?. I don't want to carry along the 300 2.8 all the time. Too heavy for me.

I tried it on 2 versions of the 300mm f4.

The 300mm f4 NON-IS was very sharp at 600mm even open wide (f8)
The 300mm f4 IS was quite sharp when stopped down to f9 or f10.
 
I tried it on 2 versions of the 300mm f4.

The 300mm f4 NON-IS was very sharp at 600mm even open wide (f8)
The 300mm f4 IS was quite sharp when stopped down to f9 or f10.

That's quite consistent with the non Pro 2X MC7, I found it somewhat better if I turn the IS of my 300f4 off.
 
That's quite consistent with the non Pro 2X MC7, I found it somewhat better if I turn the IS of my 300f4 off.

I actually meant using the older 300mm f/4 that did not have IS but I am sure that what you did also works, especially on a tripod.
 
Took two more serious test on the non-pro MC7.
I found the "wash out" mentioned by HK may well be due to over-exposure, so I set to -1.0 to -2.0 EV and tried, and the exposure is actually equivalent to 0EV with my Canon EF2X!
So I figured it out may be because Kenko has to keep the Canon non-1 series's AF work at F8, they have to do some manipulations in the firmware in their Teleplus.
Photo 1 was taken with -1.7 and
photo 2 with -2. a few days ago.
Photo 3 -1.3EV, taken today with object at over 100 foot away.
 

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Took too more serious test on the non-pro MC7.
I found the "wash out" mentioned by HK may well be due to over-exposure, so I set to -1.0 to -2.0 EV and tried, and the exposure is actually equivalent to 0EV with my Canon EF2X!
So I figured it out may be because Kenko has to keep the Canon non-1 series's AF work at F8, they have to do some manipulations in the firmware in their Teleplus.
Photo 1 was taken with -1.7 and
photo 2 with -2. a few days ago.
Photo 3 -1.3EV, taken today with object at over 100 foot away.

I think you have hit the nail squarely on the head. The results that I described earlier as "washed out" were taken with -0.67 to -1 underexposure. Looks like that is not enough!

I'll go back for more tests of the Pro DGX 2x with this underexposure. Honestly I did not compare it against the Canon 2X that you use (is it a Mark II or III?). It is tempting indeed to get a 2X as it can allow your setup to be used as an emergency system with the reach of a digiscoping rig :t:
 
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