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Antarctica and South America cruise 18/12/25-09/01/26 (5 Viewers)

Andrew Whitehouse

Professor of Listening
Supporter
Scotland
I'm thinking fairly seriously about doing a cruise around southern South America and Antarctica over Christmas/ New Year. Specifically, the one I'm thinking of is this Holland America cruise:
The basic price is currently £3129 and the tour runs from Buenos Aires on 18th December to San Antonio (Santiago, Chile) on 9th January. I'm looking for one other person to share a room with (I guess they should probably be male!) to help keep the price down (price is almost double on my own). This will also help reduce the cost of any shore-based guiding/ car hire/ taxis that we arrange. If more than one person wants to join then this is okay too, as it could reduce the cost of shore-based stuff further. I realise that the dates might not be great for everyone but would emphasise that it's the only time I can do this kind of trip because of work.

The itinerary should produce a lot of seabirds. I reckon well over 100 species of seabird are possible: basically around a quarter of all the world's species. It should be very good for marine mammals too. There are quite a lot of stops in Argentina, Uruguay and Chile and a stop scheduled in Port Stanley. This should add quite a lot of terrestrial birds too. I'm also thinking of doing about 4-5 days in central Chile at the end of the trip to see the specialities there, which anyone would obviously be welcome to join in with.

If you're interested in joining, post here or send me a message.
 
I'm thinking fairly seriously about doing a cruise around southern South America and Antarctica over Christmas/ New Year. Specifically, the one I'm thinking of is this Holland America cruise:
The basic price is currently £3129 and the tour runs from Buenos Aires on 18th December to San Antonio (Santiago, Chile) on 9th January. I'm looking for one other person to share a room with (I guess they should probably be male!) to help keep the price down (price is almost double on my own). This will also help reduce the cost of any shore-based guiding/ car hire/ taxis that we arrange. If more than one person wants to join then this is okay too, as it could reduce the cost of shore-based stuff further. I realise that the dates might not be great for everyone but would emphasise that it's the only time I can do this kind of trip because of work.

The itinerary should produce a lot of seabirds. I reckon well over 100 species of seabird are possible: basically around a quarter of all the world's species. It should be very good for marine mammals too. There are quite a lot of stops in Argentina, Uruguay and Chile and a stop scheduled in Port Stanley. This should add quite a lot of terrestrial birds too. I'm also thinking of doing about 4-5 days in central Chile at the end of the trip to see the specialities there, which anyone would obviously be welcome to join in with.

If you're interested in joining, post here or send me a message.
Looking at something very similar for a year or two later so would be really keen to hear how you get on, particularly any logistics on the land-birding. Meantime, good luck!
 
Just to say that this looks like a cracking trip & it probably goes to show how good it would be that having just returned from something similar (without the Antarctic element), I would be tempted to replicate it:-


Two quick practical elements.

I see that a number of the landings are marked as "water tender". The speed of getting off the boat & the priorities will affect land-based birding opportunities so have Plan Bs & Plan Cs depending on the time available & make sure that your land-based operators are primed for that. They will be used to cruise ship logistics. You will also be affected by any delays in arriving at port & immigration checks or similar. Maybe worth asking about disembarkation in advance so you have a bit of leverage. It frustrated me that someone who needed an hour on shore to look at something would trump those for whom returns were directly proportionate to the time available - their priority was because their excursions were booked through the cruise operator. (The cruise operator will also leave some locations without you if you are travelling independently & you are late getting back. At some locations, the immigration authorities have more leverage.)

Secondly, have a think about the logistics of the boat & where will provide the best opportunities for seawatching from the boat. Preferably towards the front & with a decent view. Also understand in what weather conditions your preferred seawatching position will be closed for access & what back up arrangements are available.

Have fun.

All the best

Paul
 
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Just to say that this looks like a cracking trip & it probably goes to show how good it would be that having just returned from something similar (without the Antarctic element), I would be tempted to replicate it:-


Two quick practical elements.

I see that a number of the landings are marked as "water tender". The speed of getting off the boat & the priorities will affect land-based birding opportunities so have Plan Bs & Plan Cs depending on the time available & make sure that your land-based operators are primed for that. They will be used to cruise ship logistics. You will also be affected by any delays in arriving at port & immigration checks or similar. Maybe worth asking about disembarkation in advance so you have a bit of leverage. It frustrated me that someone who needed an hour on shore to look at something would trump those for whom returns were directly proportionate to the time available - their priority was because their excursions were booked through the cruise operator. (The cruise operator will also leave some locations without you if you are travelling independently & you are late getting back. At some locations, the immigration authorities have more leverage.)

Secondly, have a think about the logistics of the boat & where will provide the best opportunities for seawatching from the boat. Preferably towards the front & with a decent view. Also understand in what weather conditions your preferred seawatching position will be closed for access & what back up arrangements are available.

Have fun.

All the best

Paul
Thanks Paul. Very helpful, as I've not been on anything like this before.
 
Agree with Jos, this does look really tempting, although for me personally the Christmas / New Year period isn't possible. I'm wondering if something like this doesn't deliver a high proportion of what a birder wants from the Antarctic, without the £10-12k cost of a small ship 'expedition cruise', plus the chance of some great pelagic birding around South America - as amply attested by Paul's recent year list and trip report.

I've never been on a large cruise ship before (unless you count a converted troop ship sailing to Iceland and Norway with a load of school kids on board...a very frustrating experience for a 13 year old birder, not enough time in each place), and in normal circumstances it would be pretty close to a nightmare of a holiday, the antithesis of independent travel. But I guess it provides a stable observation platform, even compared to smaller ferries, and you can also go listen to tribute bands in the evening if that's your thing :rolleyes: ...

I guess the key - again as Paul says - is getting the shore trips lined up, and adding on some decent land birding at start and / or finish (Jujuy province for rufous-throated dipper would be high on my priority list).
 
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Apologies to Andrew for hijacking his thread I'm quite keen to do a similar trip to the one Paul did, and if anybody is interested, let me know!

Vacationstogo has a departure on the Sapphire Princess on Nov 16, 20 nights Los Angeles to San Antonio, Chile for $1,798, or LA to Buenos Aires 36 nights for $3,914.

My analysis is that these are the best bang-for-buck pelagics on the planet, basically combining 3 of the most bird-rich oceans in a single trip.

I've never been on a big cruise ship, and I suspect the experience is very different from a typical expedition ship cruise, but at the end of the day they are just a big seawatching platform with a hotel attached.

One thing I would say is that the expedition cruises are often very heavily discounted from the brochure price (50% or more), especially early and late season cruises. If you have some flexibility over dates, it's well worth checking for "bargains".
 
Hi,

Don’t know if this is any help but, if stopping in Stanley, Falkland Islands there will be taxis waiting at the dock. If you’ve got the time get them to drop you at Cape Pembroke lighthouse, you can then bird back into Stanley, or if short on time get the cab back. That’ll get you a lot of the land based species.

Mark
 
Apologies to Andrew for hijacking his thread I'm quite keen to do a similar trip to the one Paul did, and if anybody is interested, let me know!

Vacationstogo has a departure on the Sapphire Princess on Nov 16, 20 nights Los Angeles to San Antonio, Chile for $1,798, or LA to Buenos Aires 36 nights for $3,914.

My analysis is that these are the best bang-for-buck pelagics on the planet, basically combining 3 of the most bird-rich oceans in a single trip.

I've never been on a big cruise ship, and I suspect the experience is very different from a typical expedition ship cruise, but at the end of the day they are just a big seawatching platform with a hotel attached.

One thing I would say is that the expedition cruises are often very heavily discounted from the brochure price (50% or more), especially early and late season cruises. If you have some flexibility over dates, it's well worth checking for "bargains".

This is the Sapphire Princess. It has an open bow (Deck 8 accessed from the promenade Deck 7) which provides the best seawatching location. You can adjust to either port or starboard to get a bit more shelter depending on the weather conditions. It is the first area that is closed in poor conditions. In such circumstances, Deck 7 at the bottom of the stairs at the front becomes the second option. If/when Deck 7 is shut (& there is ordinarily a timing difference between the appearance of yellow tape to duck underneath & being removed from the area by the crew), Deck 15 being an open air smoking area on one side & another open air area on the other are the third choice. These were never closed.

Open areas can attract seabirds to the lights overnight. Personally, I found Buller's, Sooty & Wedge-tailed Shearwaters as well as Black & Ringed Storm-petrels & saw White-bellied, Band-rumped, Leach's, Elliott's, Wedge-rumped & Markham's Storm-petrels found by others.

As discussed upthread, I would get a clear view on the seawatching options of any vessel before booking a trip. I did over a 100 hours of seawatching & in addition to the seabirds from Buenos Aires to Los Angeles, I had c15 species of cetacean including 10 Whale species, Turtles, Hammerhead Sharks, various seals/sealions, Rays, Flying Fish, etc. A few selected personal seabird totals:-

SpeciesVernacular NameBuenos Aires to SantiagoSantiago to Los Angeles
6293​
Long-tailed Skua
1​
8​
6296​
Arctic Skua
10​
11​
6298​
Pomarine Skua
119​
6302​
Chilean Skua
35​
3​
6303​
Brown Skua
3​
6320​
Cassin's Auklet
4​
6372​
Scripps's Murrelet
2​
6375​
Craveri's Murrelet
1​
6555​
White Tern
2​
6592​
Sooty Tern
39​
6860​
King Penguin
400​
6863​
Gentoo Penguin
700​
6878​
Humboldt Penguin
27​
6880​
Magellanic Penguin
166​
6886​
Southern Rockhopper Penguin
4​
6894​
Northern Royal Albatross
56​
6895​
Southern Royal Albatross
62​
6897​
Snowy Albatross
6​
6900​
Antipodean Albatross
5​
6907​
Waved Albatross
22​
6908​
Laysan Albatross
4​
6909​
Black-footed Albatross
5​
6914​
Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatross
64​
6917​
Grey-headed Albatross
3​
6918​
Buller's Albatross
3​
6924​
Salvin's Albatross
37​
1​
6925​
Chatham Albatross
4​
6927​
Black-browed Albatross
842​
6934​
Wilson's Storm-Petrel (including Fuegian & other cryptics)
583​
6939​
Pincoya Storm-Petrel
52​
6941​
Elliot's Storm-Petrel
105​
6945​
Grey-backed Storm-Petrel
1​
6946​
White-faced Storm-Petrel
27​
6953​
White-bellied Storm-Petrel
26​
6973​
Ringed Storm-Petrel
88​
6974​
Leach's Storm-Petrel
111​
6977​
Townsend's Storm-Petrel
2​
6985​
Band-rumped Storm-Petrel
23​
6992​
Wedge-rumped Storm-Petrel
61​
6995​
Black Storm-Petrel
39​
6997​
Markham's Storm-Petrel
125​
7002​
Least Storm-Petrel
1​
7008​
Southern Giant-Petrel
76​
7009​
Northern Giant-Petrel
11​
7016​
Southern Fulmar
6​
7029​
Kermadec Petrel
7​
7044​
Soft-plumaged Petrel
43​
7056​
Juan Fernandez Petrel
294​
7058​
Galapagos Petrel
38​
7066​
Cook's Petrel
451​
7067​
Masatierra Petrel
15​
501​
7074​
Stejneger's Petrel
19​
7092​
Slender-billed Prion
63​
7105​
Tahiti Petrel
43​
7113​
White-chinned Petrel
424​
86​
7115​
Parkinson's Petrel
21​
7116​
Westland Petrel
6​
7124​
Pink-footed Shearwater
593​
201​
7126​
Great Shearwater
233​
7128​
Wedge-tailed Shearwater
376​
7131​
Buller's Shearwater
2​
7132​
Sooty Shearwater
22,506​
58​
7135​
Christmas Shearwater
7​
7136​
Galapagos Shearwater
5​
7139​
Manx Shearwater
741​
1​
7153​
Black-vented Shearwater
2​
7182​
Peruvian Diving-Petrel
7​
16​
7193​
Magellanic Diving-Petrel
3​
7233​
Magnificent Frigatebird
112​
7241​
Great Frigatebird
1​
7254​
Red-footed Booby
25​
7261​
Cocos Booby
111​
7265​
Masked Booby
10​
7271​
Nazca Booby
80​
7274​
Blue-footed Booby
84​
7278​
Peruvian Booby
1,247​

Full details at the eBird trip reports listed elsewhere already. These are personal tallies. I missed various birds & a few aggregates in addition to these species totals.

All the best

Paul
 

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