Madagascar 2010 – an island apart (1 Viewer)

[edenwatcher]

Wednesday 6th October. Part 1.

It wasn’t a very comfortable night with only a floor fan to keep the room cool and a strange and lumpy pillow. After a short drive back along the road past Lac Ravelobe we had a pre-breakfast walk on the trails of the Jardin Botanique B. The trees here were rather taller and lusher than those of Jardin Botanique A. At this early hour the temperature was a very pleasant 20 °C, but it wouldn’t last! Madagascar green pigeons gave us nice perched views feeding on fruit in the canopy, before our attention turned to the forest floor with calling white-breasted mesite. It responded to playback but was only seen as it dashed across a narrow side trail. One of our main targets was the stunning Schlegel’s asity, very much an Ampijoroa speciality. Jacky picked up a male high in the treetops, which was soon joined by a female. Madagascan birds go in for remarkable facial wattles – particularly the couas and asities. Schlegel’s asity has perhaps the most remarkable adornment with a bicoloured wattle of green and cobalt blue – check out Pete Morris’s photos on Surfbirds as mine were poor record shots. A Coquerel’s coua flushed from the path in front and perched up at close range.
I had still not seen hook-billed vanga and, since Ampijoroa is perhaps the easiest place to see the species, we spent a bit of time searching. Finally a pair was located and proved to be yet another vanga that responded well to playback. Jacky detected a bird walking through the undergrowth walking towards a side trail so we waited to see what would appear. We were expecting a coua, possibly red-capped which we still needed, and were rather surprised when a superb white-breasted mesite came into view! Sadly it was gone before we could grab a photo. In the trees by Lac Ravelobe Jacky went off to look (unsuccessfully) for Madagascar pygmy kingfisher whilst we had a go at taping out white-throated rail. It called back vigorously for a while but then lost interest so we headed back to the car. On the way a Henst’s goshawk called and a cuckoo roller could be seen flying over the forest.

Rob

 

[antshrike69]

Great report Rob - wish I could take photos of that quality!

 

[edenwatcher]

Wish I'd seen recurve-billed bushbird!
Interesting how we're producing trip reports at the same time, just as we did last year ...

Rob

 

[antshrike69]

Wish I'd seen recurve-billed bushbird!
Interesting how we're producing trip reports at the same time, just as we did last year ...

Rob

So many places, so little time :t:

 

[edenwatcher]

Wednesday 6th October. Part 2.

No sooner had we sat down to breakfast than a pair of hook-billed vangas paraded themselves just outside the restaurant! After we had eaten we headed out on to the trails of Jardin Botanique A with one main target – red-capped coua. This is generally regarded as conspecific with the green-capped coua that had eluded us in the southwest – were we going to dip both subspecies? By now it was very hot once again and the forest had gone rather quiet. We kept encountering couas however – very nice views of Coquerel’s and crested couas were obtained, but no red-capped (not usually that hard to find). A scuffling on the forest floor came from 2 Madagascar buttonquails which gave superb views, although always slightly obscured. We occasionally encountered Coquerel’s sifakas, just about the only lemur we bumped into serendipitously. Finally a calling red-capped coua was heard and Jacky went off-piste to track it down. Before long we were summoned and were treated to great views of 2 very handsome red-capped couas stalking across the forest floor. Obtaining decent photos was another matter as they were very close and walked pretty rapidly. We had now seen all the forest specialities and made our way back to HQ, pausing on the way for stunning views of a white male Madagascar paradise flycatcher. Jacky also pointed out a western avahi (or woolly lemur) having a day time snooze. We then got rather a surprise as we were invited to peer into some of the Durrell enclosures and found ourselves looking at some Madagascar pochards! Apparently they have 21 birds here, the nucleus for a captive breeding program for this recently rediscovered and critically endangered species. Walking across the camp area it took Jacky very little time to find a roosting Mauritian tomb bat.
We still had one very important species left to find – Madagascar fish eagle (also critically endangered) which breeds around Lac Ravelobe. We visited the viewing platform near our bungalow where most of the species were the same as the previous day – the Madagascar cuckoo-hawk was even perched in the same place! White-headed vangas pursued each other through the trees near the platform and Madagascar jacana gave somewhat better views, before I picked out a Madagascar fish eagle perched in a tall tree. Success! We had managed to see all that we had hoped for at Ampijoroa in less than 24 hours. Tiana and Jacky then left us to our own devices. We had until check-out time at noon and so decided to walk down to the lakeshore, crocodiles notwithstanding. Since a guide was already down there with some clients and grazed grass goes down to the lake edge at that point, the risk was not exactly a large one. We didn’t see anything new but did have much closer views of Madagascar jacana and significantly better ones of the eagle. Finally the blazing sun drove first Iain, then me, back to the bungalow to pack. I made a slight diversion and had cracking views of grey-headed lovebirds feeding at the roadside.

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

More pics ...

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

Wednesday 6th October. Part 3.

Having lugged our bags over the road and tipped Jacky suitably generously, we repaired to the restaurant for a well-earned THB and lunch. Even now Ampijoroa had things to offer, with the impressive skink-like Zonosaurus laticaudatus and the largest of the day geckos, Phelsuma madagascariensis, both seen from the restaurant. Common brown lemurs, presumably the same group as we had seen the previous evening, showed well as we ate lunch. I had a look in the reception building to see if they had any nice souvenirs (a T-shirt like Jacky’s with a fish eagle on it would have been good) but found nothing of interest. Before we left for Mahajanga I fancied a nice leisurely look at some Coquerel’s sifakas and soon found some hanging out in a large tree above the reception building. I would say chilling out, but since it was 36 °C when we left it doesn’t seem appropriate. They did manage to look up when a Madagascar buzzard flew over however. The views of this highly charismatic and beautiful lemur were superb – it was now undoubtedly top furry!
We departed at 1:15; agreed that Ampijoroa was a fantastic place, meriting a longer stay than we had managed. It doesn’t usually feature on 2 week birding itineraries but it had been well worth fitting it in – if only it had been 10 degrees cooler! Speaking of cooler, this was one thing Lac Amboromalandy was not – 39 °C when we got there, scorchio! Our birding stop here with no shade was understandably brief (the best site is round the other side anyhow). The lake was covered in red-billed teal but no other duck species were seen and there must have been at least 150 black egrets in the paddies. Back at the Coco Lodge Tiana gave us bad news about our flight to Tana next day. Air Mad had changed its schedules, meaning we would have a long wait on the holiday island of Nosy Be which would cost us our first afternoon of birding at Périnet. Allocated the same room, we cranked up the air conditioning and began an assault on the local mosquito population. We really had very few problems with mosquitos in Madagascar – I averaged about a bite a day – but Mahajanga was probably the worst place for them. With the room habitable, and after a very necessary shower, it was time to go down to the bar for some THB. We spent some time reflecting on what we had seen and what we might see in the days ahead. Somehow on our second visit it was much easier to communicate with the staff (I think I was putting in more effort to speak French, which probably helped). We were able to amend the set dinner menu without difficulty, which was a pleasant change.

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

Thursday 7th October

It’s safe to say that this was never likely to be the best day of the trip – and so it proved. Our flight was around 7:15 so we had our usual early start. The hotel gave us omelettes as well as continental breakfast this time. At the airport we checked-in, having said goodbye to Maurice – another first rate driver. Once more the bags were given a transfer label, not that we believed it would mean anything! The flight to Nosy Be, which lies just off the northwest coast, took 40 minutes, leaving us with the prospect of around 5 hours in transit – what fun! As expected, our luggage was delivered with the rest and so we queued at the adjacent check-in desk to offload it once more and get our boarding cards for the flight to Tana. With time to kill we crossed the road to a café for a drink (soft, not THB!). As a tourist airport, complete with international flights, I was expecting the opportunity to use some time up by souvenir shopping – I had a commission to buy toy lemurs for Andrew and Daniel! Nosy Be airport was to prove a sore disappointment, with only a few stalls outside the entrance. Since these were selling nothing of interest they did not detain me for long.
We ordered a meal to be ready for 11:00 and Iain went off to bird the surrounding area of second growth – I thought about going with him but decided it wasn’t worth the effort in hot sticky conditions. I contented myself with birding from the relative cool of the café, seeing Madagascar green pigeon, numerous crested drongos and a pair of Madagascar kestrels amongst other species. Iain returned in subdued mood – he had been photographing a Madagascar kingfisher which had attracted the attention of two small boys who proceeded to catch, torment and ultimately kill the bird. All a bit shocking and upsetting, and not surprisingly Iain felt himself responsible for the bird’s death. Tiana suggested we draw up a hit list of species to give the local guide at what, for the sake of brevity, I shall call Périnet. There are two protected areas here, the smaller one being Analamazaotra special reserve (known by the colonial name Périnet). Together with the much larger Mantadia national park, it forms the Andasibe-Mantadia protected area, named after the town between Analamazaotra and Mantadia. Simples! Well not really, but the area forms the finest wildlife site in Madagascar. With about 15 bird species and a few mammals on the hit list, the value of visiting Périnet last was very apparent – we could really focus our energies on a few key species. Had we gone there first it would have been distinctly bewildering.
Our meal duly arrived – I stayed off the zebu steak by having spaghetti bolognaise! Suitably fed we crossed the road to the terminal building and went through to the departure area. Around noon the inbound plane appeared and we boarded at the specified time. The flight to Tana took about an hour and we landed just after 2:00 on a warm and sunny afternoon. We walked to the terminal building and then had an interminable wait for the bags. Occasionally some bags for the flight were delivered but it took just over an hour for ours to appear – unbelievable at not a very busy airport and very frustrating when we had a journey that would take up to 4 hours ahead of us. It was good to emerge from the terminal building and be met by a smiling Sisi. Once we got out of the car park we had to negotiate our way around Tana to reach RN2 which passes through Périnet on its way to Madagacar’s largest port of Toamasina. The road climbed gradually to about 1700m before a rather steep descent. By the time we reached the Mangoro river crossing it was nearly dark, so we had no opportunity to look for Madagascar pratincole. After a stop for petrol in Moramanga, where we twigged that Sisi’s petrol gauge didn’t work(!), we finally reached the Hotel Feon’ny Ala around 6:45. This is a fairly large Chinese-owned hotel, made up of separate bungalows and is very popular with groups. It was drizzling and cool and there was a rumble or two of thunder as we walked to our bungalow. The accommodation here is best described as rustic, although it was perfectly comfortable. Iain had the first shower – a disadvantage as it took some time for the water to warm up! We then (I discovered later) broke the rules by doing some laundry! At dinner, which Iain declined (though he still had a THB!), I was back on the zebu steak. We went to bed full of expectation for the following day’s birding.

Rob

 

[chowchilla]

I'm probably being thick, but I keep seeing you using the acronym 'THB' and have no idea what it means....:h?:

Very sad to read about the kingfisher...

 

[delia todd]

I'm probably being thick, but I keep seeing you using the acronym 'THB' and have no idea what it means....:h?:

Very sad to read about the kingfisher...

Three Horses Beer - explained in Post #6:

D

 

[chowchilla]

Thanks Delia. That's weird.... i've read the whole thread and don't remember that bit!B

 

[edenwatcher]

Friday 8th October. Part1 (of many!)

The day dawned grey with low cloud after further overnight rain. We had breakfast at 5:40 before meeting our local guide in the car park. As he strode forward I recognised him as Patrice, renowned as the foremost local guide in any national park in Madagascar. Born in 1962, he looks at least 10 years younger and has boundless energy and enthusiasm. Rather than drive a kilometre along the road to the park headquarters (where we needed to acquire permits) he suggested we walk instead. Striding out at a brisk rate he pointed out calling birds, some visible (e.g. Rand’s warbler) others not. In common with most other guides he had no binoculars; though his brother Maurice does use a pair and he has other guiding aids such as a laser pointer. Just after crossing a bridge a fruiting tree attracted Madagascar green pigeon and one of our targets, Madagascar blue pigeon, although sadly they did not hang about.
At the park headquarters we got into the vehicle and set off up the road towards Mantadia, Patrice soon rustling up some more blue pigeons in a bare tree for us to look at. The road was surfaced as far as Andasibe, where it crosses the railway, and then became quite a good track. However round about the upmarket Vakona lodge the surface deteriorates rapidly and remains poor all the way to Mantadia. Apparently until 2 years ago there was a graphite factory beyond Mantadia and they maintained the track. However the factory is now closed and the surface has deteriorated rapidly, such that soon Mantadia may well be virtually inaccessible. We stopped at a site for Madagascar pygmy kingfisher, which nests in the roadside banks, but there was no sign. However, further up the road, a small chestnut bullet shot across in front of us – a Madagascar pygmy kingfisher. We piled out of the vehicle and were soon enjoying great views of this exquisite forest jewel in a roadside tree. With its coral red beak and chestnut and white plumage this tiny kingfisher is an absolute stunner. It was quite active, zipping from perch to perch but we went on our way well-satisfied with superb views. Further on we finally had good perched views of cuckoo roller – a female. Patrice called another halt at a spot where he had seen a large chameleon the previous day. Sure enough after a little searching there was a huge green Parson’s chameleon – the other contender for world’s largest.

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

Friday 8th October. Part 2.

We lurched onwards towards Mantadia, a journey that typically took us about an hour and a half. Mantadia is ground-roller heaven, with 4 species present, and seeing the remaining 2 was our top priority for the day. We stopped at a known short-legged ground-roller territory and got out of the car to hear a bird calling close at hand. Patrice led us a short distance up a steep narrow trail, before further calling revealed the bird to be further downhill and close to the road. Back we went, before a period of chaos ensued as two vehicles tried to come past, one of which was a sizeable minibus containing a group of Americans. Next thing we knew the Americans were getting out – one of them had spotted the short-legged ground-roller from the bus! Sure enough, there it was perched at eye-level giving superb views. It came as a bit of a shock to be birding alongside other people, especially when one of them kept repeating “Ah just saw that big white collar” at regular intervals! At least we got to have a look through their leader’s scope. Short-legged ground-roller is just that – short-legged – and is much less terrestrial than the other members of the family. It spends a lot of time perched motionless like a large and beautifully marked puffbird. The Americans had Maurice as their local guide and we learned later that they had tried to poach Patrice from us, but being a man of honour (and Tiana’s friend) had stayed with us. Four ground-rollers down, one to go…

Moving on, we found the track covered in amazing emerald-green pill millipedes – glistening green and about the size of a thumb. They were a feature of the Mantadia track and we never saw them anywhere else. A bit further up the track and Patrice spotted another Madagascar pygmy kingfisher at the roadside. This one also gave great views, albeit more briefly. Also brief were the views of our first eastern grey bamboo lemur. We stopped at the entrance to the Tsakoka trail (Malagasy for ground-roller) and walked up a side track to view a small forest lake. Here Maurice had found some Meller’s ducks a few days previously. At first all we saw was a moorhen and a nice breeding plumage Madagascar grebe before Patrice located a pair of Meller’s ducks. This was an unexpected bonus after our dip at Ranomafana. A Madagascar spinetail flew over the forest and our first Ward’s flycatcher was high in the treetops. This species resembles a slimline Chabert’s vanga, which recent studies suggest is basically what it is!

Rob

 

[Jos Stratford]

Juicy photos appearing, what a cracker that Pygmy Kingfisher! And drool, the Ground Roller...

 

[Birdingcraft]

Yes, that ground roller looks very much like a puffbird species! The kingfisher on the other hand, resembles some fantastic little plush toy.

 

[edenwatcher]

Friday 8th October. Part 3.

We then embarked on the Tsakoka trail, reached by an interesting stream crossing, and immediately had nice views of a male forest fody, a species we had forgotten to include on our hit list. Forest fody is apparently declining due to competition from, and hybridisation with, red fody as its forest habitat deteriorates. Another Ward’s flycatcher hawked insects from high branches. We had not gone far when we diverted from the main trail on to a narrow “guides trail” and headed for a patch of bamboo. The superb habitat here meant that there was lots of opportunity to trip as we walked along! Once we reached the bamboo patch, Patrice instructed us to stand still while he scoured the forest floor. Even he was unable to locate a roosting collared nightjar, which had been present the day before. It was back to the main trail then on to another favoured roost site, involving a steep climb up another narrow trail. Once again Patrice searched the forest floor without success.
Back on the trail we then had another diversion along the stream bank, with our last remaining ground-roller (scaly) and coua (red-breasted) the targets. As we got back to the trail a red-breasted coua began calling – a very regular song, almost like one of the ground-rollers – and Patrice was off at speed in pursuit. A short walk along one side trail and he decided (correctly) that another trail would be better. This trail brought us directly to the calling bird, although seeing it through the vegetation and sweat was not very straightforward. Although it was still cloudy and not hot, the humidity was extremely high. Iain, as a spectacle wearer, was worse off than I was. In the end the views were superb, of what is a tricky bird to see at Mantadia. It is far easier at Masoala where they are said to be common and very approachable. Distant indris called, giving a frisson of excitement, but we were not to see them that day. With another major target secured we returned to the hunt for ground-rollers along the stream – much of it off-piste. Pitta-like ground-rollers were seen, along with their fresh nest hole in the bank, but not scaly. Emerging on to the track a few leeches were found – Iain being a popular host, though this was the only time we encountered them.

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

Friday 8th October. Part 4

We returned to the start of the Tsakoka trail, where there is another scaly ground-roller territory. Patrice picked one up on the ground but Iain only saw it as it flew, not to reappear, and I failed to manage even that. Further on a mixed flock provided a diversion and in addition to blue and tylas vangas there were a number of the curious nuthatch vanga, likely to be our final family member for the trip. This curious bird with its slate blue plumage and red beak used to be classed as a nuthatch (and was known as coral-billed nuthatch). In behaviour it seemed more like a woodcreeper or a furnarid. Crossing a bridge back to the track and an area with a car park and shelter by now the sun was out and it was time for lunch. We sat down to eat our omelette sandwiches and in due course Patrice wandered off with an agenda of his own. In a few minutes he called us over – SCALY GROUND-ROLLER! I suddenly developed cheek pouches rather like my younger son (!) as I stuffed the last bit of sandwich into my mouth in undignified fashion and hurried over. After a few moments of blind panic we were on to a pair of scaly ground-rollers moving through the bamboo. Other people were lunching at the same place and a young Australian woman was heard to utter “was that the one we had flying round our heads this morning?” in disinterested tones. Worthy of a clout round the ear with a tripod in my book! As they moved through the vegetation Iain and I moved to follow them, then all of a sudden what was presumably the male, flew down and landed at our feet! Various people have nominated different members of the family as “top ground-roller”, no doubt dependent on the quality of views obtained, As far as we were concerned, now there was no possible doubt – Scaly is the one – what an unbelievable bird. The beauty and intricacy of the plumage was something to behold, with amazing features like the sky-blue tail corners. Compact flash cards took a hammering as it fed happily in front of us before moving off down the stream bank. Further great views were had from the bridge before it disappeared.

Suitably elated we were fortified to face the drive back down to Périnet. Iain somehow spotted a perched male Frances’s sparrowhawk from the vehicle and it posed nicely – another of the hit list in the bag. In Andasibe Patrice leapt out, returning after a few minutes with a large spotlight. Once we got to the special reserve Patrice was a man on a mission as he led us on a forced march along the trails. Past the old fish ponds, then up the hill and on to a narrow pseudo-trail which descended steeply and then Patrice could relax for a moment – a superb pair of collared nightjars were at their favoured roost site. This spectacular large nightjar was very high on our list of priorities and it was great to see them roosting in their approved “Siamese-twin” fashion. Oddly the call of this species has never been recorded and it may be an improbable thing – a silent night bird. Photos taken, we were on our way once again. Back up to the hilltop and down the other side and soon we were gazing up at another roosting night bird – a pair of rainforest scops owls, one rufous phase and one grey phase. We then made our way back to the reserve entrance (closes at 4pm) and it began to rain just as we neared the car park at 4:15. It rained quite hard for a while so we returned to the Feon’ny Ala, arranging to go out again at 5:15.

Rob

Lots of gratuitous scaly ground roller shots!

 

[edenwatcher]

Friday 8th October. Part 5.

After such an amazing day (and with more to come) Iain and I felt inspired to toast completing the set of ground-rollers with a celebratory THB. What followed was somewhat surreal. As we sat there on the restaurant balcony overlooking the lake, which separates the hotel from the special reserve, a white-throated rail began calling. Patrice began imitating it and Iain, who had the calls loaded on his voice recorder, played the recording. In due course a white-throated rail came into view – the hit list was taking a real pasting! It subsequently came right out into the open. By now the rain had eased to intermittent drizzle and we set off as planned at 5:15. We drove along to a hotel/restaurant between the special reserve and Andasibe and got out, Patrice equipped with his powerful spotlight. We had waited for only a few minutes when there was a movement and a Madagascar long-eared owl appeared! This is the largest owl in Madagascar and is significantly bigger than long-eared owl – sort of a cross between LEO and eagle owl. It is also a difficult bird to see, but this one came very close to us giving fantastic views. It had just flown across the road when Maurice and the Americans turned up – they would have to look for it.
It was now getting dark so we drove down the road as far as the bridge between the reserve and the Feon’ny Ala. Here we failed to find roosting Madagascar ibis and so began a night walk along the road back in the direction we had just come. Andasibe-Mantadia does not allow people in after dark so everyone does their night walks along the same stretch of road. It wasn’t too busy at first as it had just got dark, but there were lots of groups by the time we had finished. A pair of common brown lemurs started things off. There was plenty to hold our interest, including tree frogs such as the beautiful Boophis viridis, and some tiny Calumma nasutum (the smallest arboreal chameleon). Goodman’s mouse lemur, which we saw in a roadside bush, is a Périnet speciality and we finished off with a dwarf lemur. The identity of the dwarf lemurs here is the subject of some debate, they are probably furry-eared dwarf lemur. We said farewell to Patrice for the day and went back to the hotel after what was one of the best day’s birding I have had anywhere. There were virtually no birds left on the hit list – next day mammals would be the focus of attention. As I took my boots off a tell-tale patch of blood on my socks revealed that I had not escaped the morning’s leeches unscathed. At dinner I went across to another group having recognised Graham Cooper – secretary of the SOC Grampian branch. He was on a private tour with Tropical Birding – it’s a small world!

Rob

Last pics for a few days until I process some more!

 

[edenwatcher]

Saturday 9th October. Part 1.

Another grey start to the day (good birding conditions!). First birds seen were Madagascar blue pigeons seen from the balcony of the bungalow. We set off at 6:00, heading up to Mantadia once again. Just past Vakona Lodge we stopped at a marshy area to try for Madagascar rail. A flufftail was calling close at hand, so Patrice tried to tape it in. However a moving of grass stems was all that could be seen. Our first attempt for the rail produced no response, and the distracting sight of a ring-railed lemur in the distance. Vakona Lodge has a touristy safari park type attraction called Lemur Island, and this is what we were seeing! About 50m further on and the tape produced success – a Madagascar rail showing nicely for several minutes.
Resuming our boneshaker of a journey, our next stop was just the short-legged ground-roller site, when Patrice spotted a (very) distant perched raptor. We then walked down the track for a while, Patrice playing a tape at intervals (we weren’t entirely sure what he was playing). A large raptor flew over the forest for a few minutes, quite distant all the while. I grabbed a couple of record shots before it disappeared. Patrice had seen and heard Madagascar serpent eagle in this area a few days previously and he and Tiana were clearly happy that this is what the bird was. Elated we walked on down the track and the bird reappeared, coming almost overhead, enabling me to get several more photos. Although it gave the impression of being a big bird, examination of those photos suggests that the bird was actually a Madagascar cuckoo-hawk. The pill millipedes were out in force again and we had much better views of eastern grey bamboo lemur than the previous day.
Before embarking on the Tsakoka trail again, we walked a bit further down the track on the lookout for Madagascar sparrowhawk – one of the few species that we still needed. Two broad-billed rollers flew over, bizarrely the first of the trip for this breeding visitor to Madagascar. After we had gone short distance along the trail, Patrice made us wait while he went off on a guides’ trail. A few minutes later and we were summoned to follow. Up in the treetops were two black-and-white ruffed lemurs, sadly mostly obscured. It was a case of assembling a picture of the animal from the views of the different parts! However a loud bark revealed the presence of another a short distance away, which gave much more satisfactory views. This is one of the most arboreal of lemurs (despite having seen zoo animals on the ground) and it came as quite a shock, given its familiarity from zoos, to discover that it is critically endangered. It is certainly one of the harder lemurs to find, so it was good to have seen such a charismatic mammal. Whilst we were watching the lemurs a blue coua passed through.

Rob

 

[Birdingcraft]

The unbelievable Scaly Ground Roller just made it onto my top ten most wanted birds.