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Madagascar 2010 – an island apart (1 Viewer)

Nice Iain. My camera was on the wrong settings for that flock!

Wednesday 29th September. Part 1.
I woke after a less satisfactory night’s sleep to find a change in the weather, with overnight rain leading to overcast conditions and wispy cloud on the ridges. I ticked Chabert’s vanga, one of the commoner species, in the hotel grounds, whilst Iain was recovering from a nose bleed. The timetable was the same as the previous day except we were heading to the higher altitude trails at Vohiparara. Somehow on the drive up Fidi managed to spot a perched Madagascar buzzard. Being at higher altitude the forest at Vohiparara is rather lower and contains a somewhat different selection of species. Before we left the road a Chabert’s vanga appeared, so Iain got that one back very quickly. Not far along the trail a marshy area gave us another chance at Madagascar flufftail. This time the vegetation was less thick and with a combination of mp3 player and Iain’s voice recorder the little gem was coaxed into view. More new species swiftly followed including long-billed bernieria (greenbul), tylas vanga, grey-crowned tetraka (greenbul), Nelicourvi weaver, and white-throated oxylabes (the only one of this species I was to get a good look at). Madagascar wood rail remained skulking in the undergrowth however. As we reached a camp area, the recently described cryptic warbler was singing vigorously from a treetop perch. Not long after this, and just after encountering wedge-tailed jery, the heavens opened. This sent a Wings/Sunbird group heading for shelter, we were made of sterner stuff and pressed on. Fortunately the rain soon eased to a steady drizzle, making birding more feasible.
One of the main targets for the day was rufous-headed ground-roller – one of the more challenging members of the family to get to grips with. In the dark and dripping forest one began calling, which we lured in close to the trail. However the dense ground cover at that point didn’t do us any favours as Iain had a brief view and I got on to it just as it hopped out of view. It then retreated down the slope so we pressed on. Madagascar yellowbrow was the next Ranomafana speciality to fall, parading round us at close range (though often too fast to get the bins on!). Soon after this another ground-roller began calling and this time, after a bit of effort, brief views were obtained, followed by unobscured binocular-filling views of a calling bird! Iain suspects that he saw 2 individuals on this occasion. Rufous-headed ground-roller also occurs in Mantadia, but is perhaps harder there than at Ranomafana, so it was good to get this one on the list.
Next we climbed a narrow side trail up a ridge – our objective sunbird-asities. Fortunately the rain had stopped by this time as we stood around waiting for them to visit their favoured trees. In due course a superb male common sunbird-asity came and paid us a visit, but of the rarer yellow-bellied sunbird-asity there was not a sign. We were clearly not helped by the fact that none of their favoured flowers were blooming. On the way down we had our first tussle with brown emutail, an avian mouse. We had brief views as it scuttled and fluttered about before disappearing. Another ridge, another common sunbird-asity, but no yellow-bellied. Other birds seen included crested drongo and a vanga which Iain and I realised later was a female white-headed vanga; there were also some nice orchids. Descending towards the camp area another brown emutail performed rather better and we saw a close blue coua. The area around the camp harboured a mixed flock including blue and tylas vangas and Madagascar cuckooshrike. Fidi, in his enthusiasm to show Iain a white-headed vanga, actually pushed him off the bird! We were now on our way back to the road, and this time our attempts to see Madagascar wood rail met with success, the curious-looking beast scuttling to and fro in the undergrowth.

Rob
 

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What, you want more?
Oh, go on then ...

Wednesday 29th September. Part 2.

Back at the road it was lunchtime and the sun came out, prompting a fine Madagascar harrier-hawk to take to the air. Venue for the afternoon was further along the road than the Akaka trail, beyond the end of the metalled surface. Here there was a marsh favoured by the increasingly rare Madagascar snipe. The habitat was an area of fields and paddies with a small sedgy lake. Tiana and Fidi went in opposite directions around the latter but drew a blank. However we did have our first encounters with the open country species Madagascar lark and Madagascar cisticola before moving on to try the paddies. A flock of Madagascar mannikins was new for the list and there were plenty of Madagascar stonechats around. Finally we found a bulky Madagascar snipe in a channel at the edge of a paddy, showing well. Unfortunately Tiana, who was in front of us, had not seen in it and it flushed before photos could be taken. Other new species for the trip seen here included three-banded plover and Madagascar swamp warbler.
With our main objective secured, we returned to the start of the Akaka trail for another crack at Meller’s duck. This proved somewhat unproductive, with only rather fewer red-billed teal than the previous day seen. We returned to the main road and had a stop in a roadside field, where Fidi rustled up two of the amazing giraffe-necked weevils and an impressive-looking cricket. By now it was late in the afternoon and we had an appointment on the trails at Vohiparara. Fidi said that a few hundred metres along the trail rufous-headed ground rollers come out to feed at dusk. It was true, they did, with at least 2 birds involved, showing what a difference good local knowledge can make. The views were excellent, though by the time we had birds close enough to photograph the light was too poor for either camera or operator to focus properly, so record shots only. Amazing stuff, I reckon I had seen 4 ground-rollers in the day, Iain thinks he had 6 - of what is supposed to be a difficult bird. White-throated rails called in the gloaming – it would be some time, and in unusual circumstances, before this species would be seen. We then headed back to the Centrest, past the hordes of mouse lemur watchers. As before, we ordered dinner and the next day’s breakfast and lunch. Tiana then presented us with a choice: next morning we had about three hours at Ranomafana before moving on towards Isalo. We could either have another crack at yellow-bellied sunbird-asity at Vohiparara or try and connect with some of Ranomafana’s lemurs. In view of how few of the latter we had seen (1 brown mouse lemur!) and the absence of suitable flowers for the asity, instinct favoured the latter option but we would sleep on it before making a final decision. Another much-needed shower was followed by a good meal (avec THB), with the added diversion of a Phelsuma gecko on the wall of the restaurant. We then settled our drinks/lunch bill. Impressively, and this was almost universal for the trip, they were absolutely spot on.

Rob
 

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Just curious. Did you experience any local music there? I've never been but love many of the styles from Madagascar.
 
Wednesday 29th September. Part 1.

"My camera was on the wrong settings for that flock!" That's my line! Here's one I did manage to capture, male (Common) Sunbird Asity
 

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I was hoping you'd post that pic Iain!

Thursday 30th September. Part 1

Same routine: 5:30 breakfast, this time with fresh pineapple, 6:00 departure but with the added need to have our bags packed for departure. It was another overcast morning but with a few breaks in the cloud and no low cloud, hinting at a sunny day in prospect. Having opted to go for lemurs we picked up an additional young local guide to help in the search. We never found out his name and so just referred to him as “lemur boy”. Overall his contribution to the morning’s proceedings was somewhat limited: number of lemurs found = 0, tip = 0. However that was in the future. At the park entrance we encountered Madagascar starling again, with another chameleon on the way down to the bridge. A hook-billed vanga came in to the tape, but remained out of my view when perched! Once we reached the bamboo zone the hunt for bamboo lemurs began in earnest, but a steep climb to a ridge revealed nothing. Our guides went off in different directions and it was Tiana who found a group of golden bamboo lemurs only a short distance away. This rare species, the signature species for the park with a population of around 1000 individuals, showed very nicely in the trees beside the path. As their name suggests they feed on bamboo, consuming ten times the amount of cyanide needed to kill a human on a daily basis.
Our lemur duck for the day broken, the next excitement was avian, with a close red-fronted coua then a very obliging party of 3 brown mesites, viewable and photographable from the trail. A pair of pitta-like ground-rollers then gave great views; one of them surprisingly turned out to be colour-ringed. It was Fidi who found our next lemurs, a small group of red-fronted brown lemurs moving through the canopy. He then found us another – a male red-bellied lemur, which required some serious off-piste hiking to reach. A descent to a stream, across the stream and a steep well-vegetated climb up the other side had us gazing up at a very fluffy lemur – at least once the sweat was wiped away from the eyes! Next came lemur boy’s only contribution to the morning’s activities – he took us to see two sensational leaf-tailed geckos. This species Uroplatus phantasticus, the Satanic leaf-tailed gecko, looks like a miniature dragon as it hangs down perfectly camouflaged among dead leaves. By now it was time to start heading back to the park entrance but a break in the canopy enabled us to catch up with a calling male cuckoo roller as it flew over the forest. We had been hearing their strange and evocative calls since we arrived at Ranomafana – indeed even more than Madagascar cuckoo they are a characteristic sound of Madagascar’s forests since their range also includes drier areas such as Zombitse or Ampijoroa. This sexually dimorphic species is in its own family (possibly with a second species from the Comoros if you split it). Ranomafana had one final treat in store – we were asked if we wanted to see greater bamboo lemur, so after yet another steep descent we were stood underneath this critically endangered species. With a population as low as 250, this species is even rarer than golden bamboo lemur and Ranomafana is vital to its survival. This individual (presumably there were others around) was being closely monitored by researchers. We emerged at the car park around 9:30 and said our farewells to Fidi with a generous tip. He had been an excellent guide – all without binoculars, in common with all the guides we encountered except those in Ampijoroa. After the rigours of Ranomafana’s steep slopes a few hours in the vehicle didn’t seem like such a bad idea…

Rob
 

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Good to see some non-bird treats featuring. The birds are remarkable but clearly Madagascar has many more natural riches to enjoy too.:t:
 
Here are a couple more non-avian pics to finish off at Ranomafana.

Rob
 

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Madagascar is somewhere I've always had a hankering to go to and this thread isn't doing much to assuage that desire! It doesn't seem like a very easy place to travel around birding as an independant traveller though. Excellent thread nonetheless.
 
Saw one at the Curtain Fig by eyeshine, but this one is really wacky.

Thursday 30th September. Part 2.

As we drove back up to RN7 we encountered several herds of zebu being driven along the road, something that became a feature of the day. Apparently the previous day had been market day across the region and they were all being driven back home. In the large town of Fianarantsoa we stopped to buy water and were tempted by some tasty looking pastries. A momentary panic occurred when we came out of the shop with no sign of Sisi and the vehicle. However we realised that Tiana was still in the shop and Sisi soon appeared. Beyond Fianarantsoa the landscape began to change with an increasing prevalence of granite outcrops. Some of these were very spectacular with sheer cliffs – Madagascar’s answer to Yosemite! In fact this area has become popular for climbing, but the lack of cracks means the routes are bolted.

Around lunchtime we reached our next stopping point, the community reserve at Anja, situated beneath more spectacular granite cliffs. Since we were not visiting Berenty, this represented our only opportunity to see perhaps Madagascar’s most iconic species – the ring-tailed lemur. Accompanied by a fluctuating number of local guides, one of whom was actually rather good, we entered the reserve and were soon diverted by fine views of our first Madagascar hoopoe. Visually very similar to Eurasian hoopoe this species is slightly larger and sounds completely different. It was quite a short walk to the lemurs but there was a further distraction before we got there in the shape of a magnificent Oustalet’s chameleon. This species (along with Parson’s chameleon) is one of the candidates for world’s largest. This one was fairly large (perhaps 40cm) and attractively patterned in black and grey. Once it had been photographed from all angles it was finally time for the lemurs. As an animal one has seen so often in zoos and on wildlife documentaries, I guess we had fairly low expectations of ring-tailed lemur. However they were great – really charismatic – and being a habituated group they went about their business as if we weren’t there. I have read that the animals at Anja have thicker fur than those in the hotter climate of Berenty – perhaps this enhanced their appeal. This is the most terrestrial of the lemur species and perhaps half of this group of 20 or so individuals were on the ground. There was an amazing vocal response when a Madagascar harrier-hawk flew low overhead. The young are born in early September and there was a particularly appealing youngster clinging to its mother’s back. Heading back we were surprised to encounter another troop only a short distance away – neighbouring groups will fight if they meet. This party included a mother with twins – one on the back, one on the front. We added 2 further bird species to the list at Anja – grey-headed lovebird and Malagasy coucal. It had been a very rewarding hour and we had a new “furry of the trip”.

Beyond Anja the granite massifs continued for a while before the country began to open out. Ihosy, where we stopped for petrol, was a town of some personal significance. My mobile phone would connect to more than one of the local networks and I could send texts home. However I was not receiving anything from Sue on the dominant network at Ranomafana. At Ihosy we finally had two-way traffic and Sue even phoned me (once I texted that that neither network would let me dial home). It was good to talk! A couple of days later I worked out how to keep the right network and normal communications were restored. Beyond Ihosy the road climbed on to the Horombe plateau, a wide expanse of grassland dotted with termite mounds and our best chance for finding Malagasy harrier. We scanned the rather desolate landscape but there was little to see bird wise except pied crows and Madagascar larks. As we crossed the plateau we neared the mountainous backdrop of Isalo national park, reaching our hotel on the outskirts of Ranohira, the Motel d’Isalo, around sunset. The Isalo area has a number of plush hotels, notably the Relais de la Reine popular with tour groups, of which this was not one! However it was perfectly adequate once we had worked out how to turn the lights on in the room! It even boasted a swimming pool. The rooms were a bit spartan with bare stone walls but the bathroom was rather good with smart blue and white tiles and a somewhat bizarre toilet seat with dolphins all over it! The whole place had a Wild West feel– you expected tumbleweed to blow past the door!

As we had at Ranomafana we ordered dinner in advance and sandwiches for the next day before having a shower and writing up notes. At dinner we had another go at denting the local zebu population – it was only fair after the hold-ups they had caused on the road – and consumed more THB.

Rob
 

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Top furry!

Rob
 

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Friday 1st October. Part 1.

Another early start and after breakfast we loaded up and set off down the road for our first stop on the edge of the national park. This is one of the most scenic parts of Madagascar with eroded sandstone canyons, looking particularly fine in the early morning sunshine. We stopped at an interpretive centre for the park, tucked under some impressive cliffs – a site for Benson’s rock thrush. Cue taxonomic digression. The status of rock thrush species of Madagascar is in a state of flux. Many authorities recognise 4 species: littoral on the south coast, Amber Mountain in the far north, forest in the rainforests of the east and Benson’s in the canyons of Isalo. However a genetic study suggested that forest and Benson’s rock thrushes were identical, but it has been reported that they actually failed to examine any genuine Benson’s specimens! More recently another study has gone further by claiming that Amber Mountain rock thrush is identical to forest and Benson’s and there are only 2 valid species in Madagascar. The latest IOC list follows this recommendation. However forest and Benson’s, although they look very similar, have very different habitat preferences and also sound different. Amber Mountain rock thrush even looks different, so I suspect there is still some mileage in this one… Anyway, back to the birding and after a few minutes the custodian called us over to one of the buildings where there was a very confiding pair of Benson’s rock thrushes. There were plenty of military personnel around, apparently associated with a visit by the country’s first lady to the Relais de la Reine. A short distance down the road we made the first of several stops to search the grassland and scrub for Madagascar partridge. Birds seen included Namaqua dove, Madagascar kestrel and Malagasy coucal and a brief moment of excitement was provided when a covey of gamebirds flushed. However they were introduced helmeted guineafowl – our only ones of the trip. Abandoning our search we carried on southwest through rather barren country, gradually losing altitude. We passed through Ilakaka, the first of a series of towns that have sprung up around sapphire mines. So rich are the deposits that people just fish the stones from the river and virtually every building has the word sapphire on it. These were definitely places where one would not want to spend any time, where the rule of law counts for little.

Zombitse-Vohibasia national park is an oasis of green in the barren landscape with our first baobab trees visible from the road as we approached. Zombitse is a key birding location, being the only site for the rare Appert’s tetraka (greenbul) as well as holding a number of other important species. The day was warming up as we arrived at 9:30 and, whilst Tiana sorted out local guides and permits, we were able to admire the flashy Souimanga sunbirds and a host of butterflies – far more than we had encountered so far on the trip. Two Madagascar spinetails flying over the forest were our first of the holiday. Guides (two of them) and permits sorted we set off on the trails. Initially things were quite slow with bird species including long-billed bernieria and red-tailed vanga seen. Verreaux’s sifaka was heard calling, but this was a close as we got to this charismatic lemur. One new lemur was seen however – the recently described Hubbard’s sportive lemur – two of which were seen at their day roosts in tree holes. Everything kicked off at once on the bird front with a Coquerel’s coua stalking across the forest floor, a flashy male Madagascar paradise flycatcher inviting photography and then a party of Appert’s tetrakas appearing almost simultaneously, with the tetrakas taking precedence. They are largely terrestrial and a subtly attractive bird with olive back, a grey head and lemon yellow underparts. They were also rather restless so I was unable to duplicate some of the fine photos that are to be found online! Further down the trail, as the cuckoo rollers called invisibly, another group of tetrakas crossed the path giving better views – but I still fluffed the photos. Our furthest point was at the roost site of a delightful torotoroka scops owl, which was much admired as we are both very keen on night birds.

The walk back featured another Coquerel’s coua as well as the distinctive Standing’s day gecko – a speciality of the area. As we neared the car park we had still to find our other main target – giant coua, though a pair of crested couas broke cover. Tiana fell over a termite mound (!), we saw our first three-eyed lizard (Chalaradon madagascariensis) and were then shown a massive (and lethargic) Oustalet’s chameleon around 60cm long. At the eleventh hour a pair of giant couas appeared, walking past us one way and then coming back again. Like a Coquerel’s coua on steroids, this impressive bird is very easy to see at Berenty but can be tricky at Zombitse, so having signed the visitors’ book, we left the park well-satisfied.

Rob
 

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More pics from Zombitse.

Rob
 

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Very enjoyable and fascinating report, Rob. There's no television in our house but with reports like yours, we're not missing out on nature or travel fun. Thanks for posting all those pictures on birds, landscape and reptiles.

Steve
 
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