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Leica, Zeiss & Swarovski binoculars compared: A personal report (3 Viewers)

Glad you're enjoying some very good binoculars! Your grandfather's binocular sounds like a "Nobilem" (the top-end product from the former East German Zeiss factory in Jena). If you still have it in your family, it'd be really interesting to hear about some comparisons between it and your 10x42 SF.
Yes I still have it. To be precise it's labelled as "Jenoptem 10x50 W" it has also engraved "DDR", "Carl Zeiss Jena" and "multi-coated". I think it's from around 1980. Maybe earlier. I can check a table with the serial number, somewhere?

It's still in a good condition after the years. No fungus in it. The purple color of the coatings is still there, but not that pronounced as on the SFs. There are no scratches on the optical surfaces and also it has no dust in it. But I think it got some time ago a shock, or some other reason to get the barrels misaligned a bit, because when I look through it, then it stresses my eyes. But I cannot remember a single time that it fell down a single centimeter. Maybe I send it to Zeiss for service to get it right again.

The field is smaller as on my VP 8x25. But it's still considered "wide". It seems around almost 60 degrees AFOV, but I don't know how to measure the exact value.

The sharpness in the center of the field is very good for that old piece of art.

The color rendition is not that good as on my modern binos, which have fluoride elements in. I cannot compare different fruits.
The CA is easily noticeable. I cannot compare to a normal modern ED glass, because I don't have one.

Yes, the more I think about it I should sent it to service to show respect to that piece of history and art. I hope they will keep it original.
 
Yes I still have it. To be precise it's labelled as "Jenoptem 10x50 W" it has also engraved "DDR", "Carl Zeiss Jena" and "multi-coated". I think it's from around 1980. Maybe earlier. I can check a table with the serial number, somewhere?

It's still in a good condition after the years. No fungus in it. The purple color of the coatings is still there, but not that pronounced as on the SFs. There are no scratches on the optical surfaces and also it has no dust in it. But I think it got some time ago a shock, or some other reason to get the barrels misaligned a bit, because when I look through it, then it stresses my eyes. But I cannot remember a single time that it fell down a single centimeter. Maybe I send it to Zeiss for service to get it right again.

The field is smaller as on my VP 8x25. But it's still considered "wide". It seems around almost 60 degrees AFOV, but I don't know how to measure the exact value.

The sharpness in the center of the field is very good for that old piece of art.

The color rendition is not that good as on my modern binos, which have fluoride elements in. I cannot compare different fruits.
The CA is easily noticeable. I cannot compare to a normal modern ED glass, because I don't have one.

Yes, the more I think about it I should sent it to service to show respect to that piece of history and art. I hope they will keep it original.
Na stupid, am I? I fixed the diopter setting. It's on the right eye piece it was not at zero. Now the Jenoptem is more sharper than before. It puts less stress on the eyes, but looking through them is not that comfortable as with the SFs, what a surprise ;) It's not needed to send it to the service :cool:
 
Na stupid, am I? I fixed the diopter setting. It's on the right eye piece it was not at zero. Now the Jenoptem is more sharper than before. It puts less stress on the eyes, but looking through them is not that comfortable as with the SFs, what a surprise ;) It's not needed to send it to the service :cool:
Zero on the diopter doesn’t mean that it’s perfectly set for your eyes. First thing to take into consideration is that the numbers on the diopter dial may not be accurate, and in many of these classic vintage binoculars they are not. Therefore, I wouldn’t worry about the specific number as much as getting the settings right for both your eyes.

Another thing to consider that is very important to comfort, and the performance of the Binoculars is the collimation (alignment of the optical train). A well serviced, collimated binocular with your IPD set make these wonderful performing optics. Good luck.

Paul
 

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Hello together,

I just want to share my experience with premium binoculars.
My first one was an old bulky Zeiss 10x50, multi-coated, I got from my grandpa. He bought it long time ago in former East-Germany (GDR), at that time pricey around 600,-DM. I felt in love with binoculars and nature observing as a child.

When I got older and could afford binoculars on my own, the first one I got was a SF 10x42. Later I got gifted a Victory Pocket 8x25. Later I also bought a SF 10x32, which I have since 2 months now.

What I love about the SFs, in general
I love the crisp, sharp, natural colored images and the very high resolution. Zeiss knows how to build high quality optics. (Sure Leica and Swarowski, too.)
The wide field of view contributes to the immersion, and Zeiss knows how to, let´s say, create a "3D-Effect" that let you feel that you are really there. You forget that you look through a binocular. They are superb balanced, you forget that you use a binocular, when looking through them. The focuser is also smooth.

The 10x magnification with the very wide AFOV, increases the immersion for me.

Differences SF 10x42 and SF 10x32
My former primary the 42, is still lightweight for a 42, but when you carry it on a long hike, you notice that you have "something" on your neck or in the harness. But when you take it to the eyes, you immediately have a perfect image. The 32 needs to be setup precisely (IPD and eye cups) to get a similar experience. Now I use my 42 when I am explicitly looking for wild animals (like deers) during twilight, there is no real other benefit with the 42 for me in comparison to the 32, at day and also until sundown. The SF 10x32 works for me until around 10-20 minutes after sundown (depends on the weather condition). I am not a hunter so that's ok for me. It's designed as a high-end instrument for the day.

Well I compared them side by side, multiple times, during sun goes down. And the SF 10x32 works remarkably well. As long as your eye's pupil did not exceed the 3.2mm, then the 32 is just slightly darker than the 42, I assume this is not because of the exit pupil, it's most likely because of the +2% light transmission. Well these 2% I occasionally notice also during dull dim days. but it does not bother me, you can see all details via the SF 10x32, clearly and crisp. I love it. It's so super lightweight, and fits for my big hands like a natural plug able extension of my eyes.

I read that some users experience "blackouts" with it, well you need to setup it for your eyes and eye socket shape, correctly.

What I love with the small VP 8x25
It's even lighter and used when I normally would not take a binocular with me. It's a "you always have with you" binocular. I use it also in urban areas, where 8x is usually enough. But when I use it in nature, I often think "would have been nice to have 10x now, damn". But the general rule is "the best bino is that that you have with you".

The 8x is more stable, it's like I would use a tripod. But I got comfortable with my 10x bins to hold steady with bare hands. It's just a matter of training. The wide field of view which my 10x offer does not require for my needs a 8x32 or 8x42.

Comparison to NL Pures I tried at the dealer
Sure, they are also awesome but they are heavier, less balanced for me and the view is like a flat screen TV. If I want to watch a movie of nature, I watch it on my flat screen TV. If I want to experience nature as it is, I use my SF 10x32. If I want to search for wild animals at twilight I use my SF 10x42. If I go biking I use my VP 8x32....

If I would ever go to a long expedition, I would take the 32 at standby on my neck or in a harness AND probably would take also the 42 in the backpack with me, just in case for late twilight.
Very helpful review, thank you!
 
Interesting comment on eye placement and glare with Swaro’s. I bury eyecups into my eye sockets and Swaros have been amongst the worst for glare of all glasses I have used or examined. I’ve always been amazed at how poorly they handle glare given their price point. Otherwise the optics have been great but excessive glare is unacceptable to me.
 
This thread has several posts that demonstrate a deep misunderstanding of the fundamental cause of veiling glare.

Much has been written on the subject and any reader wishing to better understand could do much worse than using the 'Search' function and entering the search term 'glare' filtered by author 'henry link'.

It can be mitigated by some users with some binoculars by careful setup and use. An understanding of the actual - as opposed to highly speculative - cause(s) helps.
 
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Very helpful review, thank you!
It was a pleasure to write it, too.

PS: I realized that my pupils dilate more when I am excited or fully focused on a new task, like when I was comparing two optics side by side for the first time, at day time. (SF 42/32)
I think this explains my initial perceived slight difference in brightness. When I compare them right now, when I am normal and relaxed, then I realize no difference in brightness.
Interesting, so I think my pupils dilated more than 3.2mm at a bright day on my first exited tests.
So what about the „exitement“-effect when you see a special bird or animal the first time in wild nature with the 32s?
 
I think I saw "veiling glare" for the first time yesterday. I was birding & comparing 8x42 SF with my new 8x42 EDG. A bird landed in a tree with the sun just outside the FOV. I could see that milky glow in the lower 1/3rd of the SF's view, none in the EDG. So that's it! So it's only a problem when you look toward the sun? It's unusual I"m looking that close to the sun - the light on the bird is generally not good when you look towards the sun anyway.

It was an American robin so it didn't matter much in the end :)
 

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