Gambia; practical help (1 Viewer)

[John Gibson2]

Gambia

Please keep the information coming. We will visit in January for a fortnight and while not looking for particular species and not planning a long inland trip, as my wife is not fit enough, we are excited at the prospects of seeing the widlife at a variety of fairly accessible locations. We are staying at the Kairaba Hotel on Kololi beach. Any and all wildlife location recommendations will be gratefully received. I have many questions as we have never been to Gambia. Here are the main ones.
If we use a guide is it worth taking a scope/tripod. If so, is it a hassle getting it through the airports/flight/customs/immigration hurdles.
Following previous informed suggestions we contacted Modou who responded quickly and positively. However, I feel I need to confirm which days and where we want to visit. But, not knowing the country I have no idea how to arrange a schedule that I can give to him. We do not feel the need to spend every waking moment birding, but we do not find spending time resting on the beach rewarding. River trips and ferries that took only a few hours would be OK for my wife. Any help would be appreciated.
Do we need to take any local currency or is it best to take sterling and change it as we go along?
Thanks for all the info so far.
Cheers,
John

 

[Robert L Jarvis]

Hi John my wife and I are planning a January visit but not booked yet. This will be our secong visit, last tome was in 1997 with Vaughan Ashby and we had a great time. Always wanted to go back, so upto date info very valuable. When exactly are you going?

Regards

Robert

 

[Steve G]

Please keep the information coming. We will visit in January for a fortnight and while not looking for particular species and not planning a long inland trip, as my wife is not fit enough, we are excited at the prospects of seeing the widlife at a variety of fairly accessible locations. We are staying at the Kairaba Hotel on Kololi beach. Any and all wildlife location recommendations will be gratefully received. I have many questions as we have never been to Gambia. Here are the main ones.
If we use a guide is it worth taking a scope/tripod. If so, is it a hassle getting it through the airports/flight/customs/immigration hurdles.
Following previous informed suggestions we contacted Modou who responded quickly and positively. However, I feel I need to confirm which days and where we want to visit. But, not knowing the country I have no idea how to arrange a schedule that I can give to him. We do not feel the need to spend every waking moment birding, but we do not find spending time resting on the beach rewarding. River trips and ferries that took only a few hours would be OK for my wife. Any help would be appreciated.
Do we need to take any local currency or is it best to take sterling and change it as we go along?
Thanks for all the info so far.
Cheers,
John

Hi John,
A scope & tripod would be very useful as few of the Gambian bird guides have them. Take the scope as hand luggage & the tripod in a case -you will have no problems with customs/security.
Take sterling -there is a bureau de change in the entrance compound of the Kairaba (next to the ice-cream parlour) which offers reasonable exchange rates (roughly 48-50 dalasi to the pound). The highest denomination is the 100D note -worth £2 so changing £100 will produce a sizeable bulge in your trouser pocket! Traveller's cheques yield a poorer exchange rate -take a pile of £10-£20 notes & store your cash in the room safe changing as & when required.
The Kairaba is a fairly luxurious hotel however be prepared for some minor hassle from the staff on arrival -you are deemed fair game as you clearly must be very rich to be staying there!! We were pestered by some of the gardeners who kept bringing cut flowers to my wife in the hope of a tip, whilst we were also initially stalked by one of the junior management staff who wanted to be our friend & 'show us a good time' (perhaps the gardeners had this in mind also!). The threat of a complaint to the manager stops this nonsense. Strangely we've never had this problem in the Senegambia hotel.
Your first exposure to the local enterprise culture is on arrival at the airport where you will be adopted by an unofficial baggage-handler whether you like it or not -he will insist on carrying your bags once identified on the carousel (in their zeal they often grab any you happen to inspect), he will then accompany you to your coach expecting a £1 coin for each piece of luggage -so make sure you have a few £1 coins for your arrival.
The Senegambia strip outside the Kairaba hotel holds a number of good restaurants & indeed the range & quality of food is a bit of a revelation.

I appreciate that you do not wish to make the long dusty trip inland to Tendaba however there is another option. The Kairaba has a 'sister' lodge of excellent quality called Sindola lodge which is about 2 hours drive inland from the coastal hotels. It is very comfortable & is an ideal base for a 2-3 night stay. The area is excellent for raptors as well as many other birds including the huge & impressive Abyssinian Ground Hornbill. Kairaba can organise transport -the worst section of the trip can be very comfortably done by boat -see this: www.kairabahotel.com/startseite_sindola.htm

The Kairaba gardens offer up some good birds -check out the ornamental pool area & the area around the gardeners' sheds/plant nursery -the latter held (in march 2005) Shikra, Lesser Honeyguide, Splendid & Beautiful Sunbirds amongst others whilst the former had Striated Heron & Water Monitor lizards. The lawns held Senegal Coucals which were hunting small frogs & Broad-billed Rollers often drank on the wing from the swimming pool! The Senegambia hotel is immediately adjacent & has even better gardens with a massive birdlist.

The best sites for wetland birds are inland (Tendaba,etc) however for those unable to travel inland there are a few coastal alternatives -I'm posting this in the wee small hours -so please bear with me -I'll post some further details of sites, etc in the next day or two.
When in january are you going John & did you book through the Gambia Experience?
Cheers,
Steve

 

[Steve G]

African Darters, Goliath Herons, Sacred Ibis, African Spoonbill, Yellow-billed Stork, Mouse-brown Sunbird & various others can be difficult to see on the coast. However one option is to go on a suitable boat trip.

For those booked with the Gambia Experience a few guided birding packages are on offer -these include pirogue trips from the Tanbi wetlands leaving from Denton bridge or dugout canoe trips from Joyea camp (Mandina bolong). Trips can also be done from Lamin lodge but the lodge is a complete dump with somewhat dubious catering -you have been warned! See: www.gambia.co.uk/docs/why_the_gambia/holidays_with_a_difference/birdwatching.aspx -the Tanji package is probably the best bet.

If you don't fancy these organised group trips it may be possible to organise your own trip to Joyea camp -some of the birding guides might be able to help as may the Gambia Experience offices at the Senegambia hotel.

A pirogue can be rented from the Coconut Residence Hotel -their staff will collect you from your hotel & take you to Denton bridge in an air-conditioned vehicle from where you board the craft. These boats have a sundeck, a small bar with cold drinks, a toilet, a galley & a chef who will prepare a quality 3-course meal. The boat travels through the Tanbi wetlands passing muddy creeks & mudflats, mangrove forest & eventually reaches the junction with the river Gambia where the rusting remains of some of the fishing fleet lies -a good roosting site for pelicans, storks,etc. This luxurious journey will set you back about £120 but the birding is incredible & if you can find another couple to share it with then it doesn't work out too costly.

Below are a few images taken on the Tanbi pirogue trip:

 

[John Gibson2]

African Darters, Goliath Herons, Sacred Ibis, African Spoonbill, Yellow-billed Stork, Mouse-brown Sunbird & various others can be difficult to see on the coast. However one option is to go on a suitable boat trip.

For those booked with the Gambia Experience a few guided birding packages are on offer -these include pirogue trips from the Tanbi wetlands leaving from Denton bridge or dugout canoe trips from Joyea camp (Mandina bolong). Trips can also be done from Lamin lodge but the lodge is a complete dump with somewhat dubious catering -you have been warned! See: www.gambia.co.uk/docs/why_the_gambia/holidays_with_a_difference/birdwatching.aspx -the Tanji package is probably the best bet.

If you don't fancy these organised group trips it may be possible to organise your own trip to Joyea camp -some of the birding guides might be able to help as may the Gambia Experience offices at the Senegambia hotel.

A pirogue can be rented from the Coconut Residence Hotel -their staff will collect you from your hotel & take you to Denton bridge in an air-conditioned vehicle from where you board the craft. These boats have a sundeck, a small bar with cold drinks, a toilet, a galley & a chef who will prepare a quality 3-course meal. The boat travels through the Tanbi wetlands passing muddy creeks & mudflats, mangrove forest & eventually reaches the junction with the river Gambia where the rusting remains of some of the fishing fleet lies -a good roosting site for pelicans, storks,etc. This luxurious journey will set you back about £120 but the birding is incredible & if you can find another couple to share it with then it doesn't work out too costly.

Below are a few images taken on the Tanbi pirogue trip:

Good advice again Steve. Good pictures too. What camera do you lug around, along with your scope and bins and birdbook?
It will be interesting to read how the upcoming trips mentioned in this thread turn out - all the plusses and the things that should have been done differently. On a previous Gambia thread the visit report by Mark Hows was extraordinarily detailed and informative.
Thanks,
John

 

[Steve G]

Good advice again Steve. Good pictures too. What camera do you lug around, along with your scope and bins and birdbook?
It will be interesting to read how the upcoming trips mentioned in this thread turn out - all the plusses and the things that should have been done differently. On a previous Gambia thread the visit report by Mark Hows was extraordinarily detailed and informative.
Thanks,
John

The kit comprises of Canon 1D mkII + TCs + 70-200mm & 500mm f4 IS lenses -all carried in a Lowepro bag. It's pretty heavy going lugging this around.... but I need the exercise!!

 

[Birdbox]

Just gotta butt in to say the pirogue trip courtesy of the Coconut Residence is priceless gen. Nice one Steve. Do we need to book days or hours in advance?

 

[Birdbox]

African Darters, Goliath Herons, Sacred Ibis, African Spoonbill, Yellow-billed Stork, Mouse-brown Sunbird & various others can be difficult to see on the coast. However one option is to go on a suitable boat trip.

For those booked with the Gambia Experience a few guided birding packages are on offer -these include pirogue trips from the Tanbi wetlands leaving from Denton bridge or dugout canoe trips from Joyea camp (Mandina bolong). Trips can also be done from Lamin lodge but the lodge is a complete dump with somewhat dubious catering -you have been warned! See: www.gambia.co.uk/docs/why_the_gambia/holidays_with_a_difference/birdwatching.aspx -the Tanji package is probably the best bet.

If you don't fancy these organised group trips it may be possible to organise your own trip to Joyea camp -some of the birding guides might be able to help as may the Gambia Experience offices at the Senegambia hotel.

A pirogue can be rented from the Coconut Residence Hotel -their staff will collect you from your hotel & take you to Denton bridge in an air-conditioned vehicle from where you board the craft. These boats have a sundeck, a small bar with cold drinks, a toilet, a galley & a chef who will prepare a quality 3-course meal. The boat travels through the Tanbi wetlands passing muddy creeks & mudflats, mangrove forest & eventually reaches the junction with the river Gambia where the rusting remains of some of the fishing fleet lies -a good roosting site for pelicans, storks,etc. This luxurious journey will set you back about £120 but the birding is incredible & if you can find another couple to share it with then it doesn't work out too costly.

Below are a few images taken on the Tanbi pirogue trip:

Not sure if I posted this already but at the risk of repeating myself;

The pirogue trip courtesy of the Coconut Residence sounds the business. How far in advance do you need to book?

 

[bombacilla]

A quick interjection here guys, whatever you do avoid a character called Ebrima Sidibeh at all costs! I also had correspondence recently with someone who'd had an awful time with a Lamin Sidibeh. They may be one and the same.

 

[John Gibson2]

As the choice of guide is crucial to a birding holiday in a country like The Gambia does anyone else have the names of guides to avoid?
Regards,
John Gibson

 

[Bob Biggs]

Gambia

As the choice of guide is crucial to a birding holiday in a country like The Gambia does anyone else have the names of guides to avoid?
Regards,
John Gibson

John

Turning it around slightly, I can give you the name of someone I can recommend. Tijan Kanteh would be an excellent choice for most birders. I returned from a week in The Gambia on 4 December and used Tijan all the time, as I did in 2003. He's still the same cheerful chap and most people who come into contact with him are very pleased to have done so. He now has a different 9 seater van [ mainly paid for by myself and friends of mine!] and would be happy to take anyone around the area, which he knows like the back of his hand.

I noticed a few changes this time. Certainly, there were far fewer birds than in Feb 2003 and I thought the Senegambia Hotel was not quite at its best. On the plus side, I went upriver and saw Egyptian Plovers, Pygmy Goose and all the Bee eaters you are likely to see in Gambia. We even fluked the Cranes at Pirang!

Tijan charges £15 per day per person [about half of that for half a day],plus the Government set taxi rates which are posted outside the hotels. So, for example, Abuko would be 700 Dalasi [£14] on top. Some guides are cutting each other's throats, trying to pinch business. Some are now charging over £30 per day plus the taxi rate. Be very careful, some are not worth that kind of money. If you need to ID every Bird of Prey, Gull, Wader and migrant from 7 am to 7 pm, then it might be worth paying for one of the few "hot" guides. If you're happy with 99% for half the price, Tijan's your man.

PM me if you need to discuss further

Bob

 

[Steve G]

As the choice of guide is crucial to a birding holiday in a country like The Gambia does anyone else have the names of guides to avoid?
Regards,
John Gibson

One man's top guide can be another man's rogue -even Ebrima Sibideh named above has (a few) supporters!!

As Bob says Tijan is a nice guy & a good birding guide.

For my part my vote goes to Modou Colley who is also a highly competent Birdguide, hard-working & a very nice guy who is additionally involved in local gambian conservation work.

If you were to ask Nigel Blake I'm fairly sure he would suggest Ya Ya Barry.

The point is you are better going with somebody who has been positively recommended by other birders rather than just trying to avoid the bad guys. Once you've picked a guide then book him/her (yes there are a few female Birdguides) in advance & lay down your requirements in unequivocal terms.

Though it sounds corny, to most gambians we are looked upon as being supremely rich and so there is always a strong temptation to try and coax/squeeze as much out of us as possible. The better guides will try to resist this temptation & a few will stand out as incredible people who provide a great service whilst supporting large extended families as a result of their endeavours.

 

[Alf King]

A quick interjection here guys, whatever you do avoid a character called Ebrima Sidibeh at all costs! I also had correspondence recently with someone who'd had an awful time with a Lamin Sidibeh. They may be one and the same.

Just be aware that every first son in the Gambia is called Lamin, and that Sidibeh is quite a common surname.

Shame the SWABA guys fell out!

 

[James Lowther]

Just to round off this thread nicely,
I should say that I spent 3 days with Modou Colley on Steve's recommendation and was not disappointed. He's a fairly quiet but enthusiastic chap and his birding skills were excellent IMHO. However, even HE had a detractor in the form of a british guy I met who had used him in the past, who described Modou as a mardy git or something similar!! So I would echo Steve's suggestion to get a positive recommendation from someone whose judgement you trust (cheer Steve!!)

 

[Gordon Shaw]

A quick interjection here guys, whatever you do avoid a character called Ebrima Sidibeh at all costs! I also had correspondence recently with someone who'd had an awful time with a Lamin Sidibeh. They may be one and the same.

I've just come back from a trip to Gambia and found Ebrima Sidibeh to be a great guide.
Are you sure you have the right bloke?

 

[Andy Thatcher]

Guiding

I would recommend Mo, especially now as alas his old mentor Mass Cham passed away last year.

 

[John Fleet]

some more recommendations....

just received Mark Winter's newsletter yesterday in which he referred to his trip to the Gambia in November. I know that he won't mind me quoting:

BIRDWATCHING IN THE GAMBIA

My personal birdwatching highlight of 2006 was a one week birdwatching holiday in the Gambia in November. It would be tempting to wax lyrical about the superb array of colourful birds we saw including the 7 species of Kingfisher and 5 species of Roller, but a web search will quickly reveal just how wonderful this small West African country is for birds. The 3 of us saw 201 species in a week without travelling more than 15 miles from our coastal base, largely thanks to 2 excellent local guides whom I would strongly recommend. Our main guide, Masaneh Sanyang, had the amazing ability to lure birds by making a variety of bird calls which prompted inquisitive birds to call back or even to come close and look at us. What a technique, but unfortunately my inability to whistle prevents me from using the same approach on Holy Island!

If you want a winter sun holiday with a difference, try the Gambia. The birds are great, but make sure you hire a guide like Masaneh or Alagie Trawally. They can be contacted by email at [email protected] and at [email protected]. I intend to provide fuller details of both guides on the website before long, but in the meantime if you need more details about either guide or about the Gambia please phone me and I would be happy to offer advice. I intend to go back at the earliest opportunity!


His web site is www.birdwatchnorthumbria or email:
[email protected]

HtH

John

 

[Kalispera]

We (wife and me) spent a week in the Gambia in December 2006 (8th-15th), we had previously had two visits to the Gambia in 2003 and 2005. This last visit was by far the best ever purely because of the guide, namely Yaya Barry.
Yes, as stated earlier, guides are good and bad, in 2003 and 2005 we had 'average' guides, but Yaya exceeded everything we hoped for. We had 195 species in the week, we missed out on some, but saw other great birds. The trip included our first visit to Tendaba, very enjoyable, including a pirogue trip over the River Gambia, thre first bird we saw on the river trip was an African Fish Eagle and the last we saw was an African Finfoot, amazing.
Yaya is THE guide, but that is our opinion, pays yur money and takes yur chance!!!

Cheers, Donald

 

[John Gibson2]

Gambia

A cautionary note! We have booked a fortnight at Karaiba Hotel and have just been told that they have overbooked and do we want to cancel or switch to a lower grade hotel, The Ocean Bay. On confirming we would accept and go to the other hotel, one day later we were told that hotel has also overbooked and would we like to cancel or downgrade even further. It would seem that a booking in Gambia is not a guarantee, even though we paid well in advance. Communicating our changing plans to our long suffering guide is now bordering on the farcical. Am I just unlucky or is this a common occurrence.
John

 

[Kalispera]

John, sorry to hear about the circumstances surrounding your holiday.
The three times we have been to the Gambia, we have never experienced anything like this. 2005 and 2006 we booked with the Gambia Experience and have stayed both years at the Senegambia hotel, the second year we got £30 per person discount, and have never had problems as you highlight.
Hope you get sorted and I'm sure you will enjoy your holiday when you finally get out there.
Cheers, Donald