Birding Cairns - My Cassowary House Adventure (2 Viewers)

[John Cantelo]

Saturday 18th December
Cassowary House – Cairns Esplanade & Centenary Park (Saltwater Creek) – Barron River

As usual the day started with a potter around Cassowary House which produced all the usual birds. It also produced all the usual butterflies which I've thus far neglected to mention; the impossibly bright electric blue Ulysses Swallowtail (Papilio ulysses) – understandably the symbol of Queensland tourism, the even larger (if more slender) fluorescent green and black Cairns Birdwing (Ornithoptera euphorion) and several more that escaped identification. These large insects brought an unexpected novelty to my rainforest birding, that is the danger of mistaking butterflies flitting around the canopy for small birds. I had also managed to photograph a large cicada the night before which subsequently turned out to be a Green Baron (Psaltoda maginifca) which was only named as recently as 1984. (All the cicadas hereabouts seem to rejoice in exotic names – Red Roarer, Forest Demon, Golden Knight & Black Friday being examples).

Then it was off to Cairns to show Herb and Bobbie the Papuan Frogmouths before they had to catch their flight (Herb & Bobbie that is, not the frogmouths!). The frogmouths performed well, but once again the Lovely Fairy-wrens refused to ‘play ball’. They called well enough, but views were limited to an almost subliminal glance of a small long tailed bird white below and with a bluish head. Good to see them at last, but was it a tickable view?

Another look at the esplanade found the tide to be again rather high. Even so all the expected waders were present (see 9/12), but Phil quickly spotted a small group of small plovers feeding along the near shore – Red-capped Plover. These Kentish-like plovers were something I’d completely forgotten about! A look at the mouth of the Barron River produced a few crested terns (of both species), but little else. Probably the quietest day yet, but perhaps after all the excitement I needed it.

 

[antshrike69]

Where were the Lovely FWs John?

 

[John Cantelo]

I glimpsed the Lovely Fairy-wrens in the Botanic Gardens. Take the path running NNW from Greenslopes Street and to the east of Centenary lake for c300m to cross Saltwater Creek (pausing only to check the nearby trees for Papuan Frogmouth). Turn right along the creek and the birds were in the mangroves between the bridge and where the scrub opens out (on your right),

 

[John Cantelo]

Sunday 19th December
Cassowary House – Emerald Creek – Herberton

Having been kept awake by a heavy overnight rainstorm, I was up late today so the only unusual bird was the female Cassowary which put in an appearance before breakfast. Then Phil and I had to nip off the Mareeba dump with some household rubbish. Oddly enough, this happened to be en route to some excellent new birding sites!

Our first stop was the attractive picnic spot at Emerald Creek. This was a site for two good lifers – Rufous Owl and White-browed Robin. The first often roosts in trees along the creek, but not today. Unfortunately, fording the river and looking on the far side of the creek away from any disturbance was a little problematical as the recent rain had sharply raised the water levels. (I suspect Phil, always more intrepid, would have waded across, but sensed I wasn’t keen!). Happily, the White-browed Robin ‘did the right thing’ and showed very well (something a Koel calling nearby failed to do).

As it happened crossing the stream would have probably cost me my next two lifers. Driving up away from the creek and into the open eucalypt woodland, I spotted a raptor soaring high in the sky in the distance. With no guide to its size, even the extraordinary amount of dihedral to the wings and what seemed a curiously twisted tail, were no help in reaching an idea of its ID. Naturally, Phil knew better and instantly identified it as a Wedge-tailed Eagle – another iconic Australian bird under the belt! That twisted tail was, in fact, an optical illusion created by its astonishingly long diamond shaped tail. As it circled I managed to get good scope views of its upperparts before it drifted away. This whole process was, however, punctuated by the sudden appearance of another BoP. An Accipiter had flown over as I got out the car, briefly perched on a nearby bough and then continued on its way. Both in flight and when perched I saw enough to know it was either a Collared Sparrowhawk or Brown Goshawk, but which? Well it had a broad and complete brown collar, a distinctly glowering mien when perched, an obvious bulkiness (both perched and in flight) plus a distinctly rounded tail. This one I didn’t need Phil to confirm – a Brown Goshawk! The next stop, another arm of Lake Tinaroo, was entirely a matter of Phil’s determination to show me at least one of the missing wildfowl (this trait had occasioned quick stops at every available bit of open water). This time it paid off with “old hawkeye” spotting a couple very distant Australian Wood Duck – I daren’t tell him that they looked just like the many dozens I’d seen in captivity over the years!

Having slain one of my waterborne bogies, it was time to explore somewhere entirely different. Accordingly, we set off to drive to the far side of Herberton where Phil knew of a very special area of woodland. As we drove in a couple of Noisy Miners (no, not loud pitmen, but birds) flew up into the surrounding woodland. The said woodland was interesting too as it represented a type of open dry eucalypt forest that I’d not seen before. The extraordinary diversity of habitats in this small area of tropical Queensland remains a matter of astonishment to me. Parking up by a good stand of trees we instantly heard some Fuscous Honeyeaters (a distinctive rattle), but before we could track them down a small bird perched high on a bare tree caught my attention. I’d have known it had it flown, but Phil didn’t need that luxury – it was a Dusky Woodswallow. A Yellow-faced Honeyeater briefly called but failed to show. Interestingly the Cicadabird here had quite a different call to that around Cassowary House. Distraction over we soon had excellent views (with many more during our stay) of the Fuscous Honeyeaters. A little further along the track Phil stopped again and we plunged into the woodland where Phil had previously seen a Rufous Owl (which probably explains why he didn’t drag me over that river earlier in the day!). It didn’t show, but somehow Phil located a roosting Barking Owl through a narrow tunnel of foliage. Quickly retreating so as not to disturb it we had excellent scope views of this attractive saucer-eyed owl.

Further into the wood it opened up a little so Phil and I got out to search for some of the other potential lifers. Scaly-breasted Lorikeet, White-throated Treecreeper, Eastern Yellow Robin and still more Fuscous Honeyeaters all obliged, but none of the ‘wanted’ birds responded. Then Phil picked up the merest tendril of a call – Eastern Shrike-tit – but would the blighter show? Not a bit of it. I was ready to give up when Phil spotted our reluctant hero which then promptly showed as if it hadn’t been hiding at all! Large billed, bull-headed and bedecked with yellow, white and black head markings this was one very handsome bird. Walking around the edge of the wood another bird, a male Red-backed Fairy-wren, hopped up into view. A pity that I got such a good view of the female a few days back that I can’t de-list it in favour of this stunner! (See my truly dreadful photo!) Here I was somewhat surprised to see a Monarch (Danaus plexippus) butterfly, but evidently they are well established in Australia. A Brush Cuckoo then got in on the act, but was promptly relegated into second place when a Grey Butcherbird called from nearby.

Unfortunately, despite our best efforts this bird remained obdurately hidden in cover even though it seemed very close. Leaving this excellent little tract of woodland was hard so Phil stopped for one last try for the butcherbird. Our attention was quickly distracted by the delightful scene of a small party of White-naped Honeyeaters bathing in a small puddle of rainwater high in the crook of a tree. Silhouetted against the light , as these birds bathed they shook brilliant dancing corona of sparkling droplets into the air around tem. Fantastic! But thre were no more butcherbirds. However a Yellow-faced Honeyeater suddenly materialised from nowhere so any feelings of disappointment quickly evaporated! And, yes, to me that face pattern really did remind me of the Cirl Buntings we’d watched on Southampton Common in our youth!

En route back to Cassowary House we had Nankeen Kestrel and a few more odds-and-sods. That evening Phil, Murray (who’d driven down from Daintree for the occasion) and I went to a concert by Xavier Rudd (a home grown Oz musician/environmentalist) an event remarkable only in the fact that the last time Phil and I went to a concert together it was to see “Hawkwind” almost 40 years ago!

 

[chowchilla]

The high altitude dry woodland around Herberton and Ravenshoe has specialities not found anywhere else in FNQ. The Shrike-Tit, Fuscous Honey and Little Lorikeet (were they not around?) are birds normally associated with further south. I think Yellow Thornbills are found around there as well. A little bit of temperate woodland in the tropics.

 

[John Cantelo]

The high altitude dry woodland around Herberton and Ravenshoe has specialities not found anywhere else in FNQ. The Shrike-Tit, Fuscous Honey and Little Lorikeet (were they not around?) are birds normally associated with further south. I think Yellow Thornbills are found around there as well. A little bit of temperate woodland in the tropics.

It was certainly an interesting area with a distinct avifauna - I'd liked to have spent more time there. We had a parrot shoot over between the trees at a rate of knots that might have been a Little Lorikeet, but it was simply too quick,

 

[rockfowl]

A great read John, brings back fond memories, and platypus, well you said it better than I could, incredible things, the experience of the trip for me.

 

[John Cantelo]

Monday 20th December
Cassowary House – Cairns Esplanade & Botanic Gardens (Centenary Lake & Saltwater Creek) - Cattana Wetlands

With my departure scheduled for Tuesday, this was to be my last full day in Australia. Phil, Murray and I went down to Cairns to pick up a client who’d booked Phil for the morning and got three for the price of one! By his waterfront hotel a Striated and dark morph Pacific Reef Heron posed superbly for the camera. To my great annoyance when I jumped out of the car I found mine badly misted up so I missed those award winning snaps.

Botanic gardens (Centenary Lake & Saltwater Creek) (Saltwater Creek) failed to produce the customary views of Papuan Frogmouth but, at long last, the Lovely Fairy-wrens took pity and a fine adult male showed well, if briefly, in the tree above me. Then, having, to Phil’s total mystification, eluded all fortnight Brahminy Kite (an imm.) then floated over! There must have been other birds in the park, in my state of post-tick euphoria I’ve entirely forgotten what they were! Back at the car, a fine Pacific Baza flew over resembling nothing less than a huge orange arm pitted accipter! A look around the Yorkeys Knob area netted Yellow Oriole, Chestnut-breasted Mannikin and Australian Pipit, but not much else. A visit to the mouth of the Barron River produced a flock of a few Crested and Lesser Crested Terns, but not the longed for Beach Stone-curlew. Along the road a flock of 150+ Pacific Fork-tailed Swift (plus 30+ Australian Swiftlets) gave me some of my best views of these avian rockets.

At Cairns esplanade we were to grill the waders, something Phil’s client had asked for specifically. Unfortunately, the tide was again rather high, but despite this handicap we still managed to have a decent tutorial on wader ID (both sandplovers, Terek Sandpiper, Red-necked Stint, Grey-tailed Tattler, Great Knot, etc.). A quick peregrination round the nearby cemetery had already got us a hatful of Bush Stone-curlews so we were doing quite well for waders. Then Phil suddenly shouted something unintelligible and promptly grabbed my shoulders to forcibly swivel me round – had I somehow offended him? No, not at all. It was merely a forgivable reaction to the sight of two magnificent Beach Stone-curlews flying past! These were the last of the birds I really wanted to see and a species we’d already looked for in vain. Oddly reminiscent of bustards, they steadily flew down along the esplanade, banked as if to land, but then flew on and out of sight. Wonderful! Naturally we also got both Mangrove Robin and Collared Kingfisher without the slightest hassle!

From here it was off to Cattana Wetlands. Having seen Varied Triller, Pheasant Coucal, Spangled Drongo and a few other birds, the heat and humidity finally got to me so I walked back to the car whilst Phil and his client went in search of crakes. At the entrance to the reserve Murray and I were entertained by an obliging Little Bronze Cuckoo and a number of butterflies. Driving away from the reserve we paused by a marshy backwater to look at the white herons – Little, (Eastern) Great White and Intermediate Egrets. Having expected Great/Intermediate Egrets to present a real ID problem requiring observation of the birds’ gape, I found the structure and shape of the two species obviously different and distinct. In fact, the latter looked structurally much more like a Cattle Egret. It was interesting too to note that whilst the widely ‘split’ ‘Eastern’ Great White Egret looked pretty much exactly like ‘our’ version, the unsplit Little Egrets, with dark feet and differently coloured lores, looked different! The afternoon was spent at Cassowary House where I saw all the expected species.

 

[Mike Richardson]

A great read John, brings back fond memories, and platypus, well you said it better than I could, incredible things, the experience of the trip for me.

Agree with all the above. When I first saw a Platypus I couldn't get over how small they are. I was lucky enough to see them in two areas of Queensland but not in Tasmania where I understand they reach a larger size.

Look forward to the rest of the report.

 

[John Cantelo]

Tuesday 21st December
Cassowary House – Cairns Esplanade

My last day and so I had to be at the airport by 8:30 or so for my flight. Hence I was up early for my swan song and I pottered down the Black Mountain Road more in the expectation of saying some farewells to the now familiar birds than grabbing a last minute lifer. And so it was with all the expected honeyeaters, doves and even the Grey Goshawk putting in an appearance. Phil then appeared and, such is the mesmeric effect he seems to have on the birds here, a lifer, White-headed Pigeon, promptly flew over! Walking back along the track to the house, a Noisy Pitta called close-by and then flew over the track. Not a bad finale.

So it was off to the airport and home. As we approached the airport buildings a fine adult Brahminy Kite flew over – it seemed almost a pity I’d ticked it the previous morning. And so on to the check-in where, after an hour’s hiatus, I discovered my onward flight from HK to London had been cancelled due to snow at Heathrow! This was a worry as I wanted to get home for Christmas, but it did mean more time for birding. So, after an intermission at Cassowary House, it was back to Cairns Esplanade where, mirabile dictu , the tide was actually out! A number of Pacific Reef Herons were dotted about and distant waders patrolled the mud, but there, like an old stager trying to steal the show, was a Pied Oystercatcher! Just as everyone had told me, these blighters only turned up on a low tide – they were right! Heavy rain during the day limited birding, but in the evening the Red-necked Crake called.

 

[John Cantelo]

Wednesday 22nd December
Cassowary House

So a day late, this was actually going to be my last day. Since I knew Phil had to be off by 6:00 AM to rendezvous with his client (who needed picking up some way away from Cairns) I was up particularly early to say good-bye. Happily, I was helped by a novel alarm clock, Chowchillas. I’d heard them every morning but today they were particularly close and allowed fabulous views from my little veranda. The enthusiastic ‘shouty’ flourish of their “chow-chow, chow-chow, chow-chow, chow-CHOW-CHILLA” performed to a background of fugue like bubbling was a characteristic audio backdrop to my stay. The strikingly dapper black-and-white males accompanied by the females (which sport a dash of chestnut on the breast), weaved about the undergrowth scrabbling away with one foot whilst leaning heavily on the other foot and its tail for support. These smart little birds had a certain presence that other more gaudy birds lacked. On my morning walk I picked up a couple of Dusky and Graceful Honeyeater, a Little Shrike-thrush, Mistletoebird and Yellow-bellied Sunbird. Funny how mere 'names' can so quickly become familiar, captivating birds.

At breakfast all five Cassowaries turned up to see me off as did more Brush Turkeys than previously and even one of the Orange-footed Scrubfowls appeared. Around the veranda I had the usual birds Yellow-spotted and Macleay’s Honeyeaters and Emerald Dove. As I went to fetch my stuff from the cottage an Eastern Whipbird called loudly and, for the first time in my stay actually showed itself! This was my first day without a tick, but given my run of luck this wasn’t something I was about to complain about as I’d had an absolutely fabulous holiday that exceeded all expectations. So it was that a very ‘happy bunny’ caught the afternoon plane to Hong Kong and continued on to a snow bound London,

 

[hampers]

John, great report, thank you very much. Brought back sone great memories for me.

Regards


Phil

 

[StuartReeves]

Agree with all the above. When I first saw a Platypus I couldn't get over how small they are. I was lucky enough to see them in two areas of Queensland but not in Tasmania where I understand they reach a larger size.

Look forward to the rest of the report.

Platypus was just about my number one target species on my Aus trip and I was lucky enough to score on my first attempt in Tasmania - see attached. I subsequently saw another one near Cairns and was amazed at how small it was - maybe only half as long as the ones in Tassie.

 

[John Cantelo]

Overview

My final tally of species (including a few ‘heard only’) was, tantalisingly, one short of the 250 mark. Irritatingly, in the few days that followed my departure Phil picked up 6-7 species (all in areas that we’d visited) that had eluded us. I’m not quite sure, given the questionable status of some species I saw, exactly how many lifers I got, but I think that final rush over the last few days just put me over 200. All-in-all not bad, in fact pretty damn good, considering we hadn’t done any really frantic tick-o-manic birding, just very enjoyable steady low key birding interspersed with bursts of activity and followed by pleasant ‘rest days’. A more driven approach might have netted more birds, but I would have enjoyed it far less. Clearly, though, with a more manic approach then 260 should be a realistic target for visiting birders in the Cairns area who are willing to put in a bit of effort (more than me!). Mind you, they might not have a local guide of Phil’s quality! There were, of course, many ornithological highlights, but without doubt the outstanding one was seeing both Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfisher and Noisy Pitta within a few minutes of one another. It should have been impossible to trump such a moment of sheer birding delight, but the truly gob smacking moment when I saw the Duck-billed Platypus managed it.

What really astonished me was variety of distinctly different habitats within an hour, or less, from Kuranda. Equally impressive was that each habitat had its own unique array of birds with surprisingly little overlap. Scenically I found the area around Cairns far more attractive than I’d expected. However, on a personal level the stand out experience was birding with Phil again after a lapse of several decades. Certainly from a purely utilitarian perspective having his skill, knowledge and expertise ‘on tap’ made the birding much easier and meant I saw far more birds than I could have done alone. It was great too to discover how quickly, despite scarcely seeing one another for over thirty years, we slipped into the comfortable routines of close friendship. Thanks are also due to Sue for her warm hospitality and wonderful food (those breakfasts ……).

This had been a fantastic trip to a part of the world that exceeded, and by a wide margin, all my expectations. For me it was also something of a sentimental and emotional journey so please forgive me for ending this account on a very personal note. My late mother, who was very fond of Phil and Sue, had firmly instructed me in her final illness to do two things with any proceeds from her will; to buy a house in Spain and to visit Phil in Australia. I managed the first years ago, but this December was my first opportunity to get to Oz and I hope it won’t be my last. Thanks, Mum, I think you’d have been very pleased!

.... and thanks too to those who have followed this thread and in particular those who have made kind and positive comments. It's a fantastic area and do go if you can and, of course, try to stay at Phil & Sue's place!

 

[Larry Sweetland]

Thoroughly enjoyable evocative report John of a wonderful place, thanks.

 

[joannec]

A very enjoyable read, John and nicely illustrated too. Is that a new species, the two headed egret, I see? I have to admit to never being particularly drawn to Australia but your account has pushed it up on my list of birding destinations.

 

[chowchilla]

Overview

My final tally of species (including a few ‘heard only’) was, tantalisingly, one short of the 250 mark. Irritatingly, in the few days that followed my departure Phil picked up 6-7 species (all in areas that we’d visited) that had eluded us. I’m not quite sure, given the questionable status of some species I saw, exactly how many lifers I got, but I think that final rush over the last few days just put me over 200. All-in-all not bad, in fact pretty damn good, considering we hadn’t done any really frantic tick-o-manic birding, just very enjoyable steady low key birding interspersed with bursts of activity and followed by pleasant ‘rest days’. A more driven approach might have netted more birds, but I would have enjoyed it far less. Clearly, though, with a more manic approach then 260 should be a realistic target for visiting birders in the Cairns area who are willing to put in a bit of effort (more than me!). Mind you, they might not have a local guide of Phil’s quality! There were, of course, many ornithological highlights, but without doubt the outstanding one was seeing both Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfisher and Noisy Pitta within a few minutes of one another. It should have been impossible to trump such a moment of sheer birding delight, but the truly gob smacking moment when I saw the Duck-billed Platypus managed it.

What really astonished me was variety of distinctly different habitats within an hour, or less, from Kuranda. Equally impressive was that each habitat had its own unique array of birds with surprisingly little overlap. Scenically I found the area around Cairns far more attractive than I’d expected. However, on a personal level the stand out experience was birding with Phil again after a lapse of several decades. Certainly from a purely utilitarian perspective having his skill, knowledge and expertise ‘on tap’ made the birding much easier and meant I saw far more birds than I could have done alone. It was great too to discover how quickly, despite scarcely seeing one another for over thirty years, we slipped into the comfortable routines of close friendship. Thanks are also due to Sue for her warm hospitality and wonderful food (those breakfasts ……).

This had been a fantastic trip to a part of the world that exceeded, and by a wide margin, all my expectations. For me it was also something of a sentimental and emotional journey so please forgive me for ending this account on a very personal note. My late mother, who was very fond of Phil and Sue, had firmly instructed me in her final illness to do two things with any proceeds from her will; to buy a house in Spain and to visit Phil in Australia. I managed the first years ago, but this December was my first opportunity to get to Oz and I hope it won’t be my last. Thanks, Mum, I think you’d have been very pleased!

.... and thanks too to those who have followed this thread and in particular those who have made kind and positive comments. It's a fantastic area and do go if you can and, of course, try to stay at Phil & Sue's place!

I live right at the foot of the mountain (Mt Whitfield) in the middle of that photo.:t:

 

[antshrike69]

A great report and memories of some great birds and mammals. As always, reading this had proved a double-edged sword by reminding me of those I need to go back for! :t:

 

[John Cantelo]

Chowchilla, rest assured that if I get out there again I'll be calling on you! Is it seasy to access the habitat on Mt Whitfield? If so what do you get there?

 

[Chris D]

Great stuff. Thanks for your efforts and fine writing. Brings back memories of a visit to the 'Cairns' area to see friends and do some 'hardcore' birding. Australia is the 'best' in many ways.....