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Ross steptron question. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter squidge
- Start date
No the objective lenses (lens and cel) are not cemented in place. They are held in place by retaining rings which also secure the eccentric rings once collimation has been adjusted. There may also be a small screw in the side of the objective housing which tightens against the eccentric rings. There may be a lot of hardened grease covering the retaining rings and eccentric rings which might look like glue but it isn't.
squidge
Wha Whassssat
There seems to be a couple of specks of it internally at the edges. The focussing wheel is a bit stiff, the hinge is on the loose side, the diopter eyepiece works but the incremental markings are the other side of the eyepiece when the focus is correct and the eypiece is not flush with the body.
However I will be keeping these ones as I think an hour or two with a professional bino repair specialist and they will be excellent bins. The view is nice and wide and the glass looks to be good. For some reason they seem to fit my hands like my old pair of nikon e2. Despite the few negatives which are not biggies when actually felt and seen, they are a good bin and after a bit of work by a professional an excellent bin.
Ger.
However I will be keeping these ones as I think an hour or two with a professional bino repair specialist and they will be excellent bins. The view is nice and wide and the glass looks to be good. For some reason they seem to fit my hands like my old pair of nikon e2. Despite the few negatives which are not biggies when actually felt and seen, they are a good bin and after a bit of work by a professional an excellent bin.
Ger.
Nixterdemus
Well-known member
My Stepray has a grub screw holding each endcap in place. Mine were clean, but the right side locking ring didn't wish to budge, so I put the cap & screw back on & adjusted the prism. Works like a champ and when backing away from the eyepiece I no longer have the image separating.
Least ways not as near as I can tell.
Least ways not as near as I can tell.
Collimating binoculars can be a lot easier than you expect. Sometimes they're only mis-collimated because somebody didn't screw in an objective barrel tight enough or reversed the barrels left to right side and right to left side or as in your case took out the prisms for cleaning and didn't put them back in exactly as they were before. Check these sorts of things before moving eccentric rings. It can save a lot of time and effort.
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Nixterdemus
Well-known member
Thanks, I've learned to try the various options first. These were out of collimation & I usually prefer to adjust concentric rings on one side, but these were tight & I didn't wish to force the issue.
After determining the right side was the problem I unscrewed the locking screw turned the adjustment 1/4 turn & reassembled. Closer than it was, but I could still see the separation as I backed away from the ocular.
Took the cover off & continued 1/8 turn. That did the trick. I also marked the original position of the adjustment screw and made notes of the direction & travel.
I'm no collimation machine & not very experienced, yet I've managed to bring several close enough that my eyes do not see anything but a merged image at arms length.
Plus, I've learned to use a couple of targets, 77 & 125 yards, train the bins and then lift them whilst maintaining the same view w/eyes. I can recognize immediate double image and slighter misalignment that doesn't show double, yet requires various levels of focus lag, for my eyes, to adjust. I'm somewhat surprised how well the body can be read & adjustments made w/o proper diagnostic equipment.
Still, I cannot claim to adjust basket cases or situations where both barrels/prisms are out of whack. Bringing a few back is rewarding and adds to the overall enjoyment. As well it helps me further understand some of the nuts & bolts/various ways of accomplishing the same goal.
Kind of as a whodunnit in determining which side is out by inspection/viewing and which concentric ring to move or prism screw to turn. Especially when you have no reference material to consult. I ground my grub screwdriver w/dual texture whetrock & a 10X loupe. I should've used a better metal driver, but it's all part of the experience.
After determining the right side was the problem I unscrewed the locking screw turned the adjustment 1/4 turn & reassembled. Closer than it was, but I could still see the separation as I backed away from the ocular.
Took the cover off & continued 1/8 turn. That did the trick. I also marked the original position of the adjustment screw and made notes of the direction & travel.
I'm no collimation machine & not very experienced, yet I've managed to bring several close enough that my eyes do not see anything but a merged image at arms length.
Plus, I've learned to use a couple of targets, 77 & 125 yards, train the bins and then lift them whilst maintaining the same view w/eyes. I can recognize immediate double image and slighter misalignment that doesn't show double, yet requires various levels of focus lag, for my eyes, to adjust. I'm somewhat surprised how well the body can be read & adjustments made w/o proper diagnostic equipment.
Still, I cannot claim to adjust basket cases or situations where both barrels/prisms are out of whack. Bringing a few back is rewarding and adds to the overall enjoyment. As well it helps me further understand some of the nuts & bolts/various ways of accomplishing the same goal.
Kind of as a whodunnit in determining which side is out by inspection/viewing and which concentric ring to move or prism screw to turn. Especially when you have no reference material to consult. I ground my grub screwdriver w/dual texture whetrock & a 10X loupe. I should've used a better metal driver, but it's all part of the experience.
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