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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

New OM-1 (1 Viewer)

The focus ring issue with the 300mm is something that has been mentioned in just about every test report of that lens. I usually just check it every time I lift the camera up to take a photo (the lack of a focus-point in the viewfinder is also a quick reminder that it needs pushing forward).
 
I have just been playing with the settings on my E-M1 II with the 300mm f4. I have disabled the MF Clutch in the menu and then assigned the Function button on the lens to 'Manual Focus'. Pressing the Lens Function button repeatedly then toggles between Manual Focus and Autofocus. You have to do this for each custom setting and save the settings to its custom setting. I hope that makes sense.

Ron
 
I don't have an OM-1 but according to page 104 of the manual you can disable the MF Clutch in the menu. MENU > AF > 6. MF > MF Clutch. I have the same problem on my E-M1 II with the 300mm f4 but now if the camera refuses to focus I immediately check the clutch ring. I think the problem is that I tend to support the lens by the clutch ring without meaning to.

Ron
Thanks Ron, not sure how I missed that but yes that has done the trick !

Have been taking photos of Dartford Warblers and red squirrels on the Isle of Wight today and have to say the quality of the images has blown me away compared to what I'd have got with the heavy 7Dii/300/2x combo.
 
Any suggestions for a top loading case/bag for the OM 1 and Zuiko 100-400 lens ?????
I've used a Think Tank Digital Holster 50 V20 for the last few years: fits with either the 300 or 100-400 with or without either TC if used. I used it for a few years with my previous 7D2/400 combination & still "works" as new. Has a couple of external pockets for spare batteries/cards etc.
 
I use a Think Tank Digital Holster 30 v. 2 with my E-M1 II. I think it is about the same dimensions as the 50 apart from the top. The 50 is really designed to accommodate a body with a grip attached or a larger body such as the E-M1X. It is worth looking at both versions though.

Ron
 
Is there a quick way to disable the L-Fn button on the 300m Pro lens ? It's proforma function is to stop AF and it keeps getting accidentally set when the lens brushes against my leg whilst walking. I then can't focus until I've realised what's happened and re-set it, and by then the bird is gone or distant. I believe it's possible to re-programme it to perform a different function, but frankly if it's going to keep accidentally setting, I'd prefer to just disable it. I've googled, and searched the OM1 pdf manual for "L-Fn" but can't find any reference to it.
Thanks.
Tony
 
Doesn't it just disable autofocus while you are holding it down, so it doesn't matter if it brushes against your leg while walking?
Ok thanks, I must have accidentally pressed it while raising the lens to shoot. Will just have to be more careful ! Sorry only got this a week ago so this trip is a bit of a crash course ! Fortunately nothing too rare on the IoW, just red squirrels, dartford warblers and wall lizards !
 
Not sure about the menu on the OM1 - I've got an EM1 II and in the menu under 'Button Functions' I have scrolled it round to 'OFF' for the Lens Function as I was accidentally catching it sometimes when lifting the camera up to shoot.
 
Not sure about the menu on the OM1 - I've got an EM1 II and in the menu under 'Button Functions' I have scrolled it round to 'OFF' for the Lens Function as I was accidentally catching it sometimes when lifting the camera up to shoot.
Yes that's exactly the option I'm looking for in the OM1. Under the AF menu there is an option to "reset lens" which is currently "off" but can be switched to "on". Guess I need to select "on" and then find out how to reassign the function of that button elsewhere in the menus (I've not tried to change the function of any camera buttons yet as still finding out how the flippin' thing works in default mode :).
 
As Adey said, you can switch off the L-Fn in the Button Function menu with the following sequence:
MENU > Cog Symbol > 1. Operations > Button Settings > Camera Symbol Button Function. You should then be able to scroll to and highlight the L-Fn symbol. You can then scroll to and select the Off setting. It should be easier to do than to explain. It's in the manual on pages 208-214.

The default setting for the L-Fn button is AF Stop. 'Reset Lens' determines whether the current focus resets or not when you switch the camera off. I have mine turned Off as I find it useful as it allows me to pre-focus on a chosen spot (a Kingfisher perch for example) and turn the camera off. When I turn the camera on again it should already be focused on the subject.

Ron
 
A couple of quick questions;

Does anyone else have an issue with the 300 lens manual focus ring continually slipping down so that when you go to take a picture, no auto-focusing happens, as manual focus has been selected on the lens ? Can't believe it's just me - presume when i walk it rubs against my leg and moves. Is there a way of locking the MF off on the lens ?

Having programmed C1 and C2 with appropriate settings, whenever i switch between the 2, the exposure switches to -0.7. I correct this to +0 (or whatever I need) but as soon as I switch to C1 or C2 it goes back to -0.7. I must have set this somewhere in the C1 and C2 settings but can't see where to set exposure levels in the preferences ....... help !

EDIT - both issues now resolved !

Thanks
Tony
only had it when i put the camouflage lens coat. it also made the focus with the fn button a bit slow. guess i have to take it out.
 
One frustration I have using the 300mm and 2x is that the camera seems unable to quickly change focus when I switch from close (say 20 feet away) to distant (say 120 feet away) or vice versa. When I point and half press the shutter the "white dot" in the central box searches across the box and white lines on either side of the box move up and down but no focusing takes place ......at all....no matter how long I wait. The only way I can get it to focus at a very different distance is to focus at 2 or 3 different distances inbetween, after which it can then find its way the final jump to 120 feet or 20 feet from there. Do I have a crazy setting somewhere which is making this happen ? Or a faulty camera ? Or it just unreasonable to expect the camera to switch to 120 quickly from 20 feet in decent light with 300mm and 2x connected ? I have the 4m-infinity focussing range set on the lens.....
Chris, if you are reading, I think you use the 300 and 2x, do you have this issue ??

I guess it's just a function of the limited light getting to the sensor given the magnification.
 
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One frustration I have using the 300mm and 2x is that the camera seems unable to quickly change focus when I switch from close (say 20 feet away) to distant (say 120 feet away) or vice versa. When I point and half press the shutter the "white dot" in the central box searches across the box and white lines on either side of the box move up and down but no focusing takes place ......at all....no matter how long I wait. The only way I can get it to focus at a very different distance is to focus at 2 or 3 different distances inbetween, after which it can then find its way the final jump to 120 feet or 20 feet from there. Do I have a crazy setting somewhere which is making this happen ? Or a faulty camera ? Or it just unreasonable to expect the camera to switch to 120 quickly from 20 feet in decent light with 300mm and 2x connected ? I have the 4m-infinity focussing range set on the lens.....
Chris, if you are reading, I think you use the 300 and 2x, do you have this issue ??

I guess it's just a function of the limited light getting to the sensor given the magnification.
First thing would be to query if you see the same thing using the bare 300mm with the same settings. If not it sounds like it could be a limitation of the reduced light (just my thoughts...).

Not sure if this is the same but I'm currently using the 300mm with the 1.4x converter while visiting Canada almost exclusively shooting fall warblers & sparrows. I'm basically using 2 set ups. In most cases I have bird detect set on, C-AF using the small "square" focus point target: with this set up I don't experience what you're seeing.

This works great for most cases but where I need to pick out a partially obscured bird (where the bird detect sometimes struggles) I turn bird detect off and use S-AF with a single focus point. With this set up - even with the 1.4x - the focus will often hunt and "zoom" right in and/or out before grabbing focus - but it does get there! Just testing this out indoors in poor light right now I can see the focus hunting in & out multiple times before eventually hitting focus.

TBH I can't remember the last time I used the 300mm + 2x with S-AF (always C-AF & bird detect etc.) so maybe that combination just needs more light? From memory - and certainly with the 1.4x - using C-AF I get no problems going from 120 to 20 feet quickly & without hunting. Not sure if any of that helps.
 
First thing would be to query if you see the same thing using the bare 300mm with the same settings. If not it sounds like it could be a limitation of the reduced light (just my thoughts...).

Not sure if this is the same but I'm currently using the 300mm with the 1.4x converter while visiting Canada almost exclusively shooting fall warblers & sparrows. I'm basically using 2 set ups. In most cases I have bird detect set on, C-AF using the small "square" focus point target: with this set up I don't experience what you're seeing.

This works great for most cases but where I need to pick out a partially obscured bird (where the bird detect sometimes struggles) I turn bird detect off and use S-AF with a single focus point. With this set up - even with the 1.4x - the focus will often hunt and "zoom" right in and/or out before grabbing focus - but it does get there! Just testing this out indoors in poor light right now I can see the focus hunting in & out multiple times before eventually hitting focus.

TBH I can't remember the last time I used the 300mm + 2x with S-AF (always C-AF & bird detect etc.) so maybe that combination just needs more light? From memory - and certainly with the 1.4x - using C-AF I get no problems going from 120 to 20 feet quickly & without hunting. Not sure if any of that helps.
Thanks Chris. Yes I'm using C-AF and small square. I don't have the issue with just the 300mm so it must be the light. I'm surprised I don't see the camera attempt focussing, passing the target as it attempts to focus too near to too far and back without picking the target up - rather it just seems to "give up" and not change focal length. It seems to help if I move the lens around over the area I'm trying to photo rather than just holding still, as an alternative to focussing on something half way. I guess I will just have to take the 2x off in better light conditions that I was anticipating. Trial and error, still early days.
 
One frustration I have using the 300mm and 2x is that the camera seems unable to quickly change focus when I switch from close (say 20 feet away) to distant (say 120 feet away) or vice versa. When I point and half press the shutter the "white dot" in the central box searches across the box and white lines on either side of the box move up and down but no focusing takes place ......at all....no matter how long I wait. The only way I can get it to focus at a very different distance is to focus at 2 or 3 different distances inbetween, after which it can then find its way the final jump to 120 feet or 20 feet from there. Do I have a crazy setting somewhere which is making this happen ? Or a faulty camera ? Or it just unreasonable to expect the camera to switch to 120 quickly from 20 feet in decent light with 300mm and 2x connected ? I have the 4m-infinity focussing range set on the lens.....
Chris, if you are reading, I think you use the 300 and 2x, do you have this issue ??

I guess it's just a function of the limited light getting to the sensor given the magnification.
My OM1 + 300mm + 2x is the same: at least in poorish light it won't autofocus from close to distant in one jump without a nudge (ie by quickly helping it to the right ball park with manual focus or focussing on an intermediate distance first). Once in the right ball park - close or far - it does autofocus quickly though. I haven't yet tried the 1.4x instead, but I still like the 2x and haven't yet found it to be a major problem in use.
 
My OM1 + 300mm + 2x is the same: at least in poorish light it won't autofocus from close to distant in one jump without a nudge (ie by quickly helping it to the right ball park with manual focus or focussing on an intermediate distance first). Once in the right ball park - close or far - it does autofocus quickly though. I haven't yet tried the 1.4x instead, but I still like the 2x and haven't yet found it to be a major problem in use.
I’m using the 100—400 with 1.4x converter in good light and have a similar thing with bird detect on, it isn’t as bad without the converter but does struggle if the bird is quite hidden or in bushes. I have set the top front button to object detection so can quickly press it to switch to single point focus, the lens then looks for focus on anything, a quick press again switches it back to object detection and it will then find the bird.
If you press and hold the front button you can wheel through the different settings but a quick press and let go switches it on or off, once off choose the focus size you want and if you are using the custom settings remember to save the setting BUT with object (bird) detect switched back on.
I haven’t got the 300 f4 or x2 converter yet but they are on my list.
 
First thing would be to query if you see the same thing using the bare 300mm with the same settings. If not it sounds like it could be a limitation of the reduced light (just my thoughts...).

Not sure if this is the same but I'm currently using the 300mm with the 1.4x converter while visiting Canada almost exclusively shooting fall warblers & sparrows. I'm basically using 2 set ups. In most cases I have bird detect set on, C-AF using the small "square" focus point target: with this set up I don't experience what you're seeing.

This works great for most cases but where I need to pick out a partially obscured bird (where the bird detect sometimes struggles) I turn bird detect off and use S-AF with a single focus point. With this set up - even with the 1.4x - the focus will often hunt and "zoom" right in and/or out before grabbing focus - but it does get there! Just testing this out indoors in poor light right now I can see the focus hunting in & out multiple times before eventually hitting focus.

TBH I can't remember the last time I used the 300mm + 2x with S-AF (always C-AF & bird detect etc.) so maybe that combination just needs more light? From memory - and certainly with the 1.4x - using C-AF I get no problems going from 120 to 20 feet quickly & without hunting. Not sure if any of that helps.
Final question I promise :). So i've set up C1 for perched bird and C2 for BIF. Front cogwheel changes exposure, back cogwheel changes aperture (rare I will use that). I think the only thing missing is the quick single button press to switch to single focus point/S-AF quickly for part hidden subjects. Presume you programme the "Home-AF" or "AF-On" buttons for this and once programmed you just press to switch and then press again to switch back to standard C1 or C2 ? Thanks.
 
First thing would be to query if you see the same thing using the bare 300mm with the same settings. If not it sounds like it could be a limitation of the reduced light (just my thoughts...).

Not sure if this is the same but I'm currently using the 300mm with the 1.4x converter while visiting Canada almost exclusively shooting fall warblers & sparrows. I'm basically using 2 set ups. In most cases I have bird detect set on, C-AF using the small "square" focus point target: with this set up I don't experience what you're seeing.

This works great for most cases but where I need to pick out a partially obscured bird (where the bird detect sometimes struggles) I turn bird detect off and use S-AF with a single focus point. With this set up - even with the 1.4x - the focus will often hunt and "zoom" right in and/or out before grabbing focus - but it does get there! Just testing this out indoors in poor light right now I can see the focus hunting in & out multiple times before eventually hitting focus.

TBH I can't remember the last time I used the 300mm + 2x with S-AF (always C-AF & bird detect etc.) so maybe that combination just needs more light? From memory - and certainly with the 1.4x - using C-AF I get no problems going from 120 to 20 feet quickly & without hunting. Not sure if any of that helps.
Well, I've found I get more or less the same without either converter, ie with the bare 300mm and the OM1 set to C-AF, 4m-infinity, smallest focusing square and bird recognition on or off, it won't autofocus from close to far in one go and it's reluctant to focus from far to close in one go, so marginally better than with the 2x converter added, but not by much.
 

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