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Swift Audubon HR/5 question (1 Viewer)

pat mitchel

Well-known member
I noticed that the HR/5 version has what looks to be a unique arrangement - it has prisms trays/plates (as in a B&L frame), yet the grub screw that adjust the trays are external, similar to what is used on a Zeiss framed bino. But there a twist to the arrangement, the screw bear on the plates at an angle, which leaves my a bit uneasy as to the strength of such an arrangement.. Wouldn't that load the screw (and the thread in the hole) assymetrically? While I haven't heard of any problems with the HR/5, is that a potential problem? Pat
 
I noticed that the HR/5 version has what looks to be a unique arrangement - it has prisms trays/plates (as in a B&L frame), yet the grub screw that adjust the trays are external, similar to what is used on a Zeiss framed bino. But there a twist to the arrangement, the screw bear on the plates at an angle, which leaves my a bit uneasy as to the strength of such an arrangement.. Wouldn't that load the screw (and the thread in the hole) assymetrically? While I haven't heard of any problems with the HR/5, is that a potential problem? Pat
Yes, there is. I never had ANY trouble with mine and it saw much of America. Attached, around my neck at Crater Lake and Debbie's on top of Diamondhead. However, the unending of tweaking of the screws by inexperienced technicians can cause the flaps to come off OR half of the screw head to break off, usually requiring drilling and tapping. I've had to follow a couple of these guys with a pooper scooper!
 

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Hello Bill,

As I recall from your writing, the earlier models of the Swift 8.5x44 used the superior eccentrics on the objectives for collimation, rather than adjusting the prisms.

Stay safe,
Arthur
 
Hello Bill,

As I recall from your writing, the earlier models of the Swift 8.5x44 used the superior eccentrics on the objectives for collimation, rather than adjusting the prisms.

Stay safe,
Arthur
Yes, Arthur, There was more than one way to skin an Audubon.
 

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OK Bill and an addenda to the question: Is the HR/5 superior to a mkII version of the audubon? I 'm guessing that it is later model with better coatings, but the mkII appears to have larger eyepieces and larger prisms.... so which offers the superior view? Pat
 
OK Bill and an addenda to the question: Is the HR/5 superior to a mkII version of the audubon? I 'm guessing that it is later model with better coatings, but the mkII appears to have larger eyepieces and larger prisms.... so which offers the superior view? Pat
Hi, Pat, It takes a lifetime to build a great reputation and only one screw-up OR EVEN A PERCEIVED SCREW-UP to destroy it, and the wannabe experts are waiting in the wings.

Thus, I can’t say. There are way too many variables, most resting with the physiological differences between observers.

One thing I AM certain about is that too many observer get wrapped around the axle over things that advertiser have planted in their heads that have been driven home by expert wannabes ... who aren’t, and which in many cases can’t be recognized by the observer.

Pose your question another way and I might be able to help. What the observer doesn’t know about optics is monumental. Take the following for example. Today, the wannabe experts say the “old Porro prism binoculars" are obsolete a can prove it to people who know no better. See attached.
 

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Hi Bill; Perhaps I have laid too much at the door of "larger prism+ larger eyepieces = better view" but after going through a bunch of widefields, only a few for them comparable to rangemasters, I have come to the conclusion that broadly (heh) speaking in order to get a bright, contrasty, evenly illuminated wide field, tis better to have a beeeg prism and nicely sized EP's for an extrawide bino. Sure, you can get perhaps a 10 degree to work happily with a slightly smaller prism but there seems to be a point of no return for a BK7 prisms/ average size ep at 11 degrees and still have an adequate bright field of view. Sumpins gotta give.
So may I ask again, are the prisms and eyepieces larger on the mkII than the HR/5?? Regards, Pat
 
Hi Bill; Perhaps I have laid too much at the door of "larger prism+ larger eyepieces = better view" but after going through a bunch of widefields, only a few for them comparable to rangemasters, I have come to the conclusion that broadly (heh) speaking in order to get a bright, contrasty, evenly illuminated wide field, tis better to have a beeeg prism and nicely sized EP's for an extrawide bino. Sure, you can get perhaps a 10 degree to work happily with a slightly smaller prism but there seems to be a point of no return for a BK7 prisms/ average size ep at 11 degrees and still have an adequate bright field of view. Sumpins gotta give.
So may I ask again, are the prisms and eyepieces larger on the mkII than the HR/5?? Regards, Pat
Hi, Pat, I BELIEVE they are. However, it has been at least 20 years since I have been on the inside of one. You might consider asking Cory. I paid special attention to things I thought might be of use to my neighbor. However, I just repaired, restored, and collimated them; I didn't give them religious status or start a collection, as some do. I do find it foolish that some people get weak in the knees at the bragging rights they get for their ultra-wide field bino, even if the outer 60% of that field is of very poor quality. The world of "binocularism" is chock full of lies and legends that are so inextricably intertwined and misunderstood that finding the truth is nearly impossible.

I would like to give you more to work with, but I have never been one to pull my information out of the air.
 
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I have the HR/5 and several older versions with slightly wider fields.

The older ones may be tougher and heavier, but I use the HR/5.

The problem with several Porros is glare, which for me at night near street lights means I use something else with better glare control.
But where glare is not a problem I use the 8.5x44 HR/5.

However, many roof prism binoculars also have varying degrees of glare. Some are awful, some excellent.
So it is impossible to give a single answer.

Generally, I use a binocular most suited to the observation.

For comet observations, this means anything from a 2x opera glass to a 20x80.

For bird watching the range of suitable binoculars is smaller.

Regards,
B.
 
I have two Audubon HR/5, both of which I love the performance of. Yesterday I dropped the elder of the two from some height (about 4 ft) onto carpeted floor and the shock shifted the prism set-up to an unusable state, both linear and tilt errors of many degrees. Angry with myself I decided to try dropping them again! After about ten drops from 24 inches onto the same floor, at varying angles on different body parts, checking each time - sometimes better, sometimes worse - perfect alignment returned. No rattles, no damage to any other components, job done. Would I recommend this - not on your life :) Keith
 
I have two Audubon HR/5, both of which I love the performance of. Yesterday I dropped the elder of the two from some height (about 4 ft) onto carpeted floor and the shock shifted the prism set-up to an unusable state, both linear and tilt errors of many degrees. Angry with myself I decided to try dropping them again! After about ten drops from 24 inches onto the same floor, at varying angles on different body parts, checking each time - sometimes better, sometimes worse - perfect alignment returned. No rattles, no damage to any other components, job done. Would I recommend this - not on your life :) Keith
Top work Keith. A member for 19 years, constantly assimilating all the bird forum knowledge to be able to drop a binoculars 10 times from 2 foot up to successfully return them to a perfect state. The binoking has spoken and we should listen.

If Bill hadn't already retired from his 8 axis navy Dreadnaught collimator he'd be out of a job thanks to Keith and the carpet bomb method. If you don't mind excusing me for a moment i'm just off to sling my dobsonian into a fence as I think it might be slightly out of whack.
 
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I did this with my 12x40 Soviet binocular.

Unfortunately, after a while the prisms dropped back out of alignment.

Hopefully the HR/5 will be more permanent.

Regards,
B.
 
I noticed that the HR/5 version has what looks to be a unique arrangement - it has prisms trays/plates (as in a B&L frame), yet the grub screw that adjust the trays are external, similar to what is used on a Zeiss framed bino. But there a twist to the arrangement, the screw bear on the plates at an angle, which leaves my a bit uneasy as to the strength of such an arrangement.. Wouldn't that load the screw (and the thread in the hole) assymetrically? While I haven't heard of any problems with the HR/5, is that a potential problem? Pat
The prism assemblies have three screws each to secure them but two are sprung which allows the adjustment screws to change the angle/s of the plate that holds the prisms and aid collimation.
 
Is there any other brand other than swift that uses that technique with the 4 hidden flaps in the leatherette to access external adjust of the prism trays? The rest seem to go through the rear prism covers on the B&L type frame
 

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