Swarovski eye candy... (1 Viewer)

[Paultricounty]

Well, after the EL 10x50 I bought a SLC 8x42 to be used by my girlfriend, ATX 85, SLC 15x56, EL 8x32 (best allround bino for me) and a Habicht 10x40 WGA.
I also found an unused CT 75 which I personally brought in for cleaning and inspection at Absam by coincedence. I was filling up my car when my girlfriend mentioned something about Swarovski...I was thinking about the shiny stones and such but we were just 500 meter from the Swarovski plant away and we went for a visit.
Unfortunately It was covid in 2020 and we couldn't get a works visit. We could check out all bino's and goodies together with the NL's which were just released.

That is about the Swarovski stuff...in the meantime I also found a few nice Swift Audubon's (one for less then lunchmoney but needed some work), an ednar and other vintage, also military stuff, all with good views.
As I have a technical profession I also started cleaning and repairing the vintage stuff, with some trails and errors. About 25 in total ready for use, project box still full with pieces waiting for some TLC.

Currently looking for a NL10x42 but was not as overwhelmed as 5 years ago with the EL10x50, still in doubt.
The 10x50 feel like your trusted pair of shoes, put them on and they are good to go. The NL needs more to feel good, at least some time to get used to, that is also what I read here from other forummembers

Also looking around for a habicht 8x30 (I like old style or vintage) or maybe SFL, unfortunately both not availabe in GA.

I thought I was done when buying the EL10x50, will we ever...??

Oh you got it bad brother, welcome to the group. Hello my name is Paul, I’m a binocularholic 😆.

NL’s do melt in your hands , but I’m not sure if they really have anything over the EL50 , which really feel good in the hands. I think all the Swaros feel great in the hands. I’m with you with the Audubons and the vintage options. If you haven’t already , check out some of the high end 7x35 SWA’s.

Post some pictures when inclined.

Paul

 

[safaridreaming]

this is our humble collection. Unimaginatively boring as the binos are all 8x. The EL’s are 8x32 SV FP’s, and the CL Pockets (1 is with Swaro for service) are both 8x25’s…..

CL Pockets for our kids and the EL’s for my wife and I plus a spare…. I hv been considering getting 1 more EL (in Traveler brown if possible) so kids can move into a larger bino when they are ready but at the moment being 10 and 13, the CL’s fit them well - both find the eyecup on the 32’s a bit larger to tuck into their eye sockets and a bit heavy around the neck after an hr or so….

the BTX unfortunately probably doesnt get the use it deserves but I’m wondering if i was too ambitious in getting the 115mm objective. Ive been considering dropping to 85mm for the larger exit pupil and easier portability / packability. The 115mm fully assembled is quite large. The ATX objective has never been used due my lack of interest in using spotting scopes..

 

[ReinierB]

I can see how the 10x32 NL could be a little more finicky. You could try some rubber extenders like I use with my Habicht’s (see picture) don’t look so pretty but very functional.

The NL 10x32 is just fine. I use the eyecups one setting down, like you. It is the EL 10x50 i was talking about. If use the eyecups one setting down it is ok, but I must not press the eyecups too hard on my sockets, otherwise I get blackouts. Eyecups fully extended and I do not see the whole FOV.
So one setting in between would be ideal. A extender or o rings would be worth a try.

 

[Paultricounty]

The NL 10x32 is just fine. I use the eyecups one setting down, like you. It is the EL 10x50 i was talking about. If use the eyecups one setting down it is ok, but I must not press the eyecups too hard on my sockets, otherwise I get blackouts. Eyecups fully extended and I do not see the whole FOV.
So one setting in between would be ideal. A extender or o rings would be worth a try.

Interesting 🤔. I don’t have the 10x50, and don’t remember how I adjusted it when I had tried them. i wonder if it could have something to do with collimation , or possibly some misalignment with the eyepieces. I had something like this happen with a Nikon 8x32SE, had very uncomfortable kidney beaning in the first one I bought, it almost made me move on from the SE’s. In any event collimation was slightly out but not in the amount that would bother anybody, I had sent it in to Nikon for service and when it came back I had no issues with the blackouts.

Definitely try the O-ring. There were a few people here who posted that the NL multiple settings (more range) than the EL had solve similar issues with them.

Good luck

Paul

 

[chill6x6]

I use one or two 0-rings on several binoculars.

 

[Iceberg slim]

Just Why?????, lol

 

[Will K]

I’m wondering if i was too ambitious in getting the 115mm objective. Ive been considering dropping to 85mm for the larger exit pupil and easier portability / packability. The 115mm fully assembled is quite large.

That's my main worry about the 115. I'd love to own and use one, but I'm imagining it would be such a chore to carry it into the field.

The BTX is such an innovative and exciting idea, but the viewing position is also very limited (based on the one time I tested a model).

I'm hoping that Swarovski make several improvements to the next gen BTX, such as:

1. including variable zoom beyond 30x (although the booster takes it up to 60x, as I understand)
2. improving the light and 'plasticy' feel of the chunky optical module
3. finding some way to have more flexibility in the viewing position

They've got over the hard part - single objective to double optic - now they can continue the refining process. I might wait for gen 2.

 

[Will K]

Swaro ATX 'eye candy' from a store testing day, in comparison with Zeiss Harpia.

 

[The BulbMogul]

Swaro ATX 'eye candy' from a store testing day, in comparison with Zeiss Harpia.

View attachment 1527305View attachment 1527306View attachment 1527307View attachment 1527308

Oh heck just go and snag one of each with a nice Gitzo 5543 Tripod....

 

[Will K]

Oh heck just go and snag one of each with a nice Gitzo 5543 Tripod....

I’d love to 😆but i need a promotion first. It might be the way I celebrate if I get a new job.

 

[Birdister]

That's my main worry about the 115. I'd love to own and use one, but I'm imagining it would be such a chore to carry it into the field.

The BTX is such an innovative and exciting idea, but the viewing position is also very limited (based on the one time I tested a model).

I'm hoping that Swarovski make several improvements to the next gen BTX, such as:

1. including variable zoom beyond 30x (although the booster takes it up to 60x, as I understand)
2. improving the light and 'plasticy' feel of the chunky optical module
3. finding some way to have more flexibility in the viewing position

They've got over the hard part - single objective to double optic - now they can continue the refining process. I might wait for gen 2.

My current set up weighs about 12kg which is just about portable using a tripod carrier. I don't mind the weight - it reminds me of when I used to walk everywhere with a Bergen - but others may have a different view.

I do think the BTX lends itself to the whole package being very heavy. The BTX splits the light in two, so you need a 115mm objective to gather what would be the light of two 80mm objectives. You then need the balance rail (although you could get away with not using it). The tripod needs to be very substantial and I ended up choosing the Gitzo 5543XLS. This was a bit of an error as it ended up being too long (but the saving grace is that you usually only need to use two leg locks rather than three). You then need a solid gimbal head, and the only one that has a handle suitable for spotting scope use is seemingly the Gitzo fluid head. Then you have the tripod carrier, and it all gets a bit heavy.

The BTX with the 115mm objective certainly gives you a very sharp and relaxed view. I haven't used anything which was remotely comparable.

I actually don't mind the lack of a zoom. I found with my old scope that I was forever fiddling with the zoom instead of looking at the bird. I also find that the conditions really need to be good to give you useful extra detail when you go beyond 40x or so.

The field of view is wide but not as wide as in an NL Pure, and I also think they will eventually come out with an 'BTX Pure' (I want royalties, Swarovski!) with a wider field of view. The headrest on mine feels a bit wonky as well and could do with a redesign.

 

[Birdister]

Another shot from the same trip. The 35x zoom was perfect for getting up close with the waders on the water's edge.

 

[Tringa45]

the BTX unfortunately probably doesnt get the use it deserves but I’m wondering if i was too ambitious in getting the 115mm objective. Ive been considering dropping to 85mm for the larger exit pupil and easier portability / packability. The 115mm fully assembled is quite large. The ATX objective has never been used due my lack of interest in using spotting scopes..

The BTX 115 has 35x magnification and an effective aperture of 110 mm for 3,1 mm exit pupils.
The BTX 85 has 30x magnification for smaller 2,8 mm exit pupils. They will, however, both be dimmer than with the ATX ocular module due to the beam splitter.

John

 

[The BulbMogul]

I’d love to 😆but i need a promotion first. It might be the way I celebrate if I get a new job.

I own both the 95 & 115 Spotters with each one with a ATX Eye Piece plus 2 of the Gitzo 5543 Tripods........

 

[Will K]

I have no idea if Zeiss will come up with something to compete with the ATX/BTX/STX modular design and 115 objective. Perhaps Zeiss will not be be motivated to go further with their R&D in that area. The one major thing the Harpia has over the Swarovski line-up is the amazing constant AFOV, making for much wider views at low magnification.

 

[safaridreaming]

I was hoping the 115mm would replace my APM 70mm binoviewer which i use with the Kowa 32x eyepiece (yes i also had the Kowa Highlander FL but sold that given its weight), but the length is probably the concern. As it stands the 115mm is an effective replacement for 2 x 70mm objectives from a light gathering perspective and the single focus mechanism vs individual focus for each eye piece make it a lot easier to use with kids when looking at the moon etc.

 

[safaridreaming]

The field of view is wide but not as wide as in an NL Pure, and I also think they will eventually come out with an 'BTX Pure' (I want royalties, Swarovski!) with a wider field of view. The headrest on mine feels a bit wonky as well and could do with a redesign.

I hate to think of the price this would be given Swaro’s recent price increases the jump of the NL’s over the EL’s

 

[safaridreaming]

The BTX 115 has 35x magnification and an effective aperture of 110 mm for 3,1 mm exit pupils.
The BTX 85 has 30x magnification for smaller 2,8 mm exit pupils. They will, however, both be dimmer than with the ATX ocular module due to the beam splitter.

John

i should hv clarified i was thinking of the 85mm over the 95mm due to marginally larger EP due to the change in magnification for the 85mm vs the 95mm….

Also i think the 85mm is also quite a bit more compact and i might travel with it more frequently…
but yes both are dimmer than the ATX configurations however the relaxing views without straining more than make up for this. I seem to observe more detail with the BTX than i can with the ATX…

 

[ReinierB]

I use one or two 0-rings on several binoculars.

How does that work exactly? Just put one ring at each eyecup and the eyecups will stay in place on the postion where the o ring is? The o ring doesn't move?

 

[chill6x6]

How does that work exactly? Just put one ring at each eyecup and the eyecups will stay in place on the postion where the o ring is? The o ring doesn't move?

So no. So this is mostly useful for eyeglass wearers. Let's look at the Meopta B.1 in the picture. It has LOTS of ER. When using the binoculars in the eyecup position one normal would with eyeglasses(all the way down), it has too much ER. So much so that blackouts occur and the binocular needs to move away from the user. So let's add an o-ring on the eyecup. So now the eyecup can't be pushed in as far, the width of the eyecup less. In the case of the B.1 it needed two o-rings(may even add another) to get the binoculars far enough away from the eye to where blackouts don't occur.

For me, o-rings are the way to go for binoculars with too much ER for eyeglass wearers. So much better than "stops" on the eyecup. The eyecup won't collapse and stays right there which is now the all the way down setting.

I hope I explained the good enough...