👍The ergonomics are the biggest drawbacks. Space between barrels, less weight and better materials and then I think these would sell like hot cakes.
👍The ergonomics are the biggest drawbacks. Space between barrels, less weight and better materials and then I think these would sell like hot cakes.
. . . When I use the Canon 10x42IS-L the 3D image is very noticeable to me. In fact, I see more stereopsis in the Canon than I do some conventional porro's.
It is subjective, for one is significant, for another it is not. My point is the binocular have offset. How strong the effect?However, while it’s true in an absolute sense, it’s not significant in terms of the optical effect
In the early Canons, when I first tried them more than decade ago, the effect you describe was more pronounced, i.e. the period it "was searching" for focus was somewhat longer. In addition it seemed to lose focus periodically when you were on the bird for a split second. I found this effect difficult to come to terms with at the time.How quickly the L stabilizes is a great question. I’m still playing around with it and having fun , I locate the object without IS engaged then hit the button. id say it’s almost as fast as you let go of the button, your in. Of course you can leave it on and as soon as you focused on the object it’s already stabilized. Same with birds in flight, but there is a slight focus lag (shift). It’s like it’s searching for focus , then finds it. It’s very slight, but it’s there. Is this one of the artifacts that some users talk about, I don’t know.
Thanks to all on the battery problem, I think I have it but would still like to know if anyone has a Kite APC and uses rechargeable.I collect flashlights as well ( torches for you guys over the great pond). 😂
I agree that SP and AK prisms can have an offset, especially AK. AK prisms are known for having more 3D stereopsis than an SP prism. There is something about the view through the Canon 10x42 IS-L that looks like stereopsis, but maybe it is something else I am seeing. I know one thing, I do like the view through them, especially with the IS engaged. I can see a LOT of detail that I can't see with any other unstabilized 10x42 binocular.Hi Ted (post #19),
Yes, that is a good point. However, while it’s true in an absolute sense, it’s not significant in terms of the optical effect
- when compared to the degree of offset typical to Porro prism binoculars in their usual configuration
e.g. as with a post-WWII version of the CZJ Deltrintem 8x30.
Additionally, while generally for convenience we think of roof prisms such as Schmidt-Pechan’s and Abbe-Koenig’s as having no offset,
that’s often not the case.
See the end of post #2 along with the links at: Roof Prisms Used in Binoculars
(and in terms of what’s possible, the last link shows how Pentax modified an S-P prism to produce a Porro prism like degree of offset!).
- - - -
Hi Dennis,
Is that really optically possible? Or perhaps a variation on the old saying 'Believing is seeing'
John
Very true. I change the IPD a considerable amount, so for me, I have quite a bit of offset. I get 3D from somewhere on the Canon.It is subjective, for one is significant, for another it is not. My point is the binocular have offset. How strong the effect?
"Power resides only where men believe it resides." (George R.R. Martin, A Clash of Kings)
I agree with that. I find the newer Canon 10x42IS-L has fewer artifacts than some of the older ones. It doesn't bother me much now.In the early Canons, when I first tried them more than decade ago, the effect you describe was more pronounced, i.e. the period it "was searching" for focus was somewhat longer. In addition it seemed to lose focus periodically when you were on the bird for a split second. I found this effect difficult to come to terms with at the time.
I think Canon tweaked the stabiliser over the years. I'm totally fine with the way the stabiliser works now.
Hermann
I suspect that it might have to do with the field flatteners. When a larger part of the image (or all of it) is in focus, you will also have more 3D-effect towards the edge. But that is only my theory without being any type of expert on this. I do have porros that seem to have a much better 3D-effect than others despite having the same distance between the barrels. Like my Komz 7x30 which has some of the strongest 3D-effect I ever saw and it is also the only porro with a flat field that I own, so I thought that might be the cause. Might be other factors, too however, like the popping greens I see with the Komz that other binos lack.There is something about the view through the Canon 10x42 IS-L that looks like stereopsis, but maybe it is something else I am seeing.
Also interested by this ones.I wonder if these newer rechargeable lithium batteries would work in the Canon. I use them in my telescope mount.
You could be correct about the flat field creating more 3D effect because the Fujinon 10x50 FMT-SX is a flat field porro, and it has more 3D than almost any porro I have seen.I suspect that it might have to do with the field flatteners. When a larger part of the image (or all of it) is in focus, you will also have more 3D-effect towards the edge. But that is only my theory without being any type of expert on this. I do have porros that seem to have a much better 3D-effect than others despite having the same distance between the barrels. Like my Komz 7x30 which has some of the strongest 3D-effect I ever saw and it is also the only porro with a flat field that I own, so I thought that might be the cause. Might be other factors, too however, like the popping greens I see with the Komz that other binos lack.
And another thought -- to change the IPD on the Canon should not change the 3D-effect as the objectives are fixed. So what you see through the left and right eyepiece will stay the same even when adjusting the IPD, opposed to a normal bino where you change the offset of the objective lenses when changing IPD.
I have to use rechargeable Lithium AA batteries in my telescope because the batteries have to be 1.5 v instead of 1.2 v like most rechargeables.Also interested by this ones.
But after reading the comments, I decided to stay with Eneloop Pro
I have never tried lithium AA rechargeable batteries. Not seen this make before either. Does the included charger, charge each cell independently / can a single cell be charged?I have to use rechargeable Lithium AA batteries in my telescope because the batteries have to be 1.5 v instead of 1.2 v like most rechargeables
They work in my telescope, and it has to have 1.5 v batteries. It comes with the charger and 4 batteries. You can charge a single cell. I think they might work well in the Canon.I have never tried lithium AA rechargeable batteries. Not seen this make before either. Does the included charger, charge each cell independently / can a single cell be charged?
The voltage profile and capacity both look good, if they are to be believed.
Edit: I don't believe this discharge curve......
Might be good and possibly better than NiMH, but not convinced they would hold up the voltage in the way (the marketing) shows
Yes, some of the Nexstars and AstroFi scopes can use AAs and need to hold up the voltage, as the electronics are sensitive to this. Another option could be a car jump starter (Lead acid or lithium).They work in my telescope, and it has to have 1.5 v batteries. It comes with the charger and 4 batteries. You can charge a single cell. I think they might work well in the Canon.