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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Panama - May 2010 (2 Viewers)

Day 9 - May 21st

Though it rained in the night, it was not raining by dawn. The ensuing fog and cloudy skies made for a dim morning, A $10 taxi ride arranged by Enrique got us up to the trailhead for the National Monument of Cerro Gaital at 8:45am where we paid the attendant another $10 for the two of us. We were the first of the day, he told us, so we anticipated surprising a flock of Black Guans or a covey of Wood Quails. The fog-shrouded dark forest didn't give us a lot to work with though; we did see some good mountain birds, like Silver-throated Tanagers and Chestnut-capped Brush-Finches. The trail led to a 8' tall, small, wooden platform where we stopped, completely enveloped in fog, straddling the crest of the volcanic rim. We weren't there long when a school group came up. It was quite a bit of shuffling with 10 of us either in the narrow trail or on the platform. Conversation began, a meeting-in-the-middle of two languages, and they quickly realized we were focused on birds. I tried some show and tell with my digital recorder, finding a White-breasted Wood Wren call, playing it and then showing the bird to them in my plates. One girl insisted she heard a reply so I played it a second time and sure enough, there was a bird coming in. They were excited then, so I continued playing the tape until the bird was 6 feet away but a master at hiding in the thick shrubbery so we all only got split second glimpses. At some point, I decided not to harass the bird further which they seemed to understand. Our birding skills somewhat frustrated, they began to leave, when coming up towards us out of the fog soared two Swallow-tailed Kites! The group came back alive, as we did; such distinctive and beautiful birds appearing so close overhead and in such an almost mystical manner. We pulled out the field guide, chattered on a few more minutes and parted company, smiles for all. Never mind the view that we never got - that experience was easily the highlight of the day.

So many flowers, especially orchids, that we got distracted from birding on the way down the circular trail. Near the trailhead was an open, bushy area around a small pond. The pond held nothing but there were quite a few hummingbirds, including one I'm hoping to be a Sapphire-throated Hummingbird (see picture attached). We saw many Green Hermits, or one who was many different places.

With the afternoon still ahead of us, we decided to walk back to town, a distance we figured to be 6-7 km and mostly downhill. Our walk led us through La Mesa, where we saw Grassquits but no hoped for Wedge-tailed Grass Finches, and past some chicken farms, the cackling noises lingering for some distance. Incidentally, we were able to hear them for much of the Cerro Gaital trail as well. Though there was a fair amount of open fields or pasture, only one cow was seen and very few houses. We sneaked a few steps into the Canopy Lodge entrance but it wasn't until after that, when we were closer to town, that we saw a Blue-throated Toucanet. It was a shame he was too shy for the camera, the light improved as the sun came out.

It took us the guesstimated 3 hours to end our walk at the Pananderia (we have not found much variety in baked goods in Central America and this place was no exception). We shopped a little at the open air market near the hotel before having some supper at the usual place. In the evening, you would think we would need to spend some time resting our feet in the hammocks on the patio, however, we walked the nearby neighborhoods, soaking up the tropical sights, sounds and smells as the sun set.

El Residencial:
Bananaquit
Blue and White Swallow

Cerro Gaital:
Smooth-billed Ani
Swallow-tailed Kite
Green Hermit
Silver-throated Tanager
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch
Chestnut-backed Antbird

Road to Town:
Common Bush-Tanager
Tawny-capped Euphonia
*Tawny-crested Tanager
Blue-throated Toucanet
 

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Gaital Trail distractions.
 

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Day 10 - May 22nd

Up early, as usual, hoping to find the Pananderia open for breakfast but it was not so we ate instead at a nearby streetside restaurant. Thick, corn tortillas, salty local cheese, hard-boiled eggs and hot drinks from a buffet were calories enough to hike to our target area today - the India Dormida Ridge, the western rim of El Valle.

Our travels didn't start all that well. Instead of following carefully our notes from "The Bird-Finding Guide to Panama", we turned at the new signs for India Dormida which apparently lead to a hiking trail at the opposite end of the ridge where our target birds were to be found. Retracing our steps, to Julianna's (sp?), we were soon at the red bus shelter mentioned in the guide, which has since been painted green. The road becomes steep just as the asphalt ends and also where there is a colony of Chestnut-headed Oropendulas in a tall stand of bamboo. We watched them for a few minutes, then attacked the rutted mountain road, reaching La Cruces at the top by 10am. A much appreciated light breeze greeted us and the promised grasslands stretched in all directions. Far off birds sounds pulled us first one way then another. Soon, we stopped in a sliver of shade to eat, getting up as the call of a Crested Bobwhite rang out. The bird was far enough away and we have enough experience with Northern Bobwhites where we live to think we had much of a chance to actually see it. Naturally, we headed straight for it, slowly trying to fix its position. In our line of sight, a small, brown bird flies up to a grass stalk and sings. Our other target bird, the Wedge-tailed Grassfinch, stays singing in place while we take multiple pictures, Bobwhite temporarily forgotten. So forgotten that it stops singing. We console ourselves with our Grassfinch and turn to leave the grasslands. Ten minutes later, near La Cruces, two Bobwhite explode out from the tall grasses 40 feet away, brief looks of flying birds but completely satisfactory.

It was much easier to look for birds going down. Grassquits and Euphonias made up the bulk of the species but we also saw a male White-lined Tanager and later what we thought was the female (see picture below). Black-chested Jays called close to the road but were not easily seen. Other birds were Crimson-backed Tanagers, Rufous and White Wrens, one Streaked Saltator and, of course, a second look at the Oropendulas. In town, we stopped for groceries and to explore the open air market, crowded with vendors and shoppers at midday Saturday. We were not happy to see the many orchids for sale, both cut flowers and whole plants. It wouldn't be likely that these were nursery grown. Near the hotel was a mid-sized tree, red, fluffy flowers, not necessarily where you'd expect to find hummingbirds but we did anyway, a Long-billed Starthroat.

The afternoon found us heading for the Los Zamias trail, which has probably seen better times for it to be included in the Bird-finding Guide. Except for the first 100 meters, the trail is difficult to find, with a poorly graded surface, waist high weeds and several tangles of fallen trees to navigate around. A sure-fire place to find snakes or chiggers, we retreated to the trailhead as the first rain of the day began to fall. It followed us to town, waiting until we reached the hotel before becoming a real downpour, continuing into the evening hours. The falling rain and the gecko chirping in our room sent us to dreamland.

El Residencial:
Lesser Elaenia
*Long-billed Starthroat

India Dormida:
*Wedge-tailed Grassfinch
*Crested Bobwhite

India Dormida road:
White-lined Tanager
 

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More from El Valle.
 

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Day 11 - May 23rd

First light found us walking the local streets again; we could never get enough of the tropical scenery. The houses, plants, foggy views of the mountains and even the common birds provided constant stimulation, scenarios that would pop into our daydreams months later. So, we loaded our inner hard drives with the all the memories we could store then returned to eat breakfast as we prepared to leave this beautiful town. There was time for some shopping at the open air market. Liz bought some toucan potholders and I, a "Canal de Panama" ball cap. Small souvenirs we could stow on our already bulging carry on's. Time also for a nice, long talk with Enrique, whose company we thoroughly enjoyed, then into the waiting van for the high speed, downhill run to the big city.

The taxi dropped us off at the Balboa Inn a few minutes after one pm. Total cost for transportation from El Valle - exactly $10 for both of us. Whether, Panama or Costa Rica, if you manage to live through traveling by bus, it's kind to the budget. Blue sky was waiting for us in Panama City so after checking our bags, we hiked up the paved road to nearby Ancon Hill. There we found the views of the canal, city and bay worth many pictures. Turkey and Black Vultures dominated the bird life; no other soaring birds were seen. Far below, among the many boats, we could make out some gulls or terns and cormorants. A group of Geoffery's Tamarins fed on palm fruits without concern for us nearby tourists. Somehow, we managed to flub our pictures of them but I posted a short video on YouTube titled "Ancon Tamarins".

Near the base of the hill, we were excited to find a pair of Fork-tailed Flycatchers flying from palm top to palm top. One stopped long enough for a overhead photo. As we returned to the inn, two small, yellow birds landed across the street. I had time to take a quick shot when a passing car sent them flying and we never saw them again. Saffron Finch would be the likely identification. Picture below.

That evening, we wandered down to Nikko's Cafeteria, just a few blocks away. It was fun to eat there; noisy, cheap and lots of food choices. We particularly liked a dish labeled "zapallo", a yam-like vegetable. We returned to Balboa Inn and arranged for a early breakfast and cleaned our lenses for our last birding day in Panama.

El Valle:
Ringed Kingfisher

Ancon Hill:
Boat-billed Flycatcher
*Fork-tailed Flycatcher
 

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Day 9 - May 21st

Though it rained in the night, it was not raining by dawn. The ensuing fog and cloudy skies made for a dim morning, A $10 taxi ride arranged by Enrique got us up to the trailhead for the National Monument of Cerro Gaital at 8:45am where we paid the attendant another $10 for the two of us. We were the first of the day, he told us, so we anticipated surprising a flock of Black Guans or a covey of Wood Quails. The fog-shrouded dark forest didn't give us a lot to work with though; we did see some good mountain birds, like Silver-throated Tanagers and Chestnut-capped Brush-Finches. The trail led to a 8' tall, small, wooden platform where we stopped, completely enveloped in fog, straddling the crest of the volcanic rim. We weren't there long when a school group came up. It was quite a bit of shuffling with 10 of us either in the narrow trail or on the platform. Conversation began, a meeting-in-the-middle of two languages, and they quickly realized we were focused on birds. I tried some show and tell with my digital recorder, finding a White-breasted Wood Wren call, playing it and then showing the bird to them in my plates. One girl insisted she heard a reply so I played it a second time and sure enough, there was a bird coming in. They were excited then, so I continued playing the tape until the bird was 6 feet away but a master at hiding in the thick shrubbery so we all only got split second glimpses. At some point, I decided not to harass the bird further which they seemed to understand. Our birding skills somewhat frustrated, they began to leave, when coming up towards us out of the fog soared two Swallow-tailed Kites! The group came back alive, as we did; such distinctive and beautiful birds appearing so close overhead and in such an almost mystical manner. We pulled out the field guide, chattered on a few more minutes and parted company, smiles for all. Never mind the view that we never got - that experience was easily the highlight of the day.

So many flowers, especially orchids, that we got distracted from birding on the way down the circular trail. Near the trailhead was an open, bushy area around a small pond. The pond held nothing but there were quite a few hummingbirds, including one I'm hoping to be a Sapphire-throated Hummingbird (see picture attached). We saw many Green Hermits, or one who was many different places.

With the afternoon still ahead of us, we decided to walk back to town, a distance we figured to be 6-7 km and mostly downhill. Our walk led us through La Mesa, where we saw Grassquits but no hoped for Wedge-tailed Grass Finches, and past some chicken farms, the cackling noises lingering for some distance. Incidentally, we were able to hear them for much of the Cerro Gaital trail as well. Though there was a fair amount of open fields or pasture, only one cow was seen and very few houses. We sneaked a few steps into the Canopy Lodge entrance but it wasn't until after that, when we were closer to town, that we saw a Blue-throated Toucanet. It was a shame he was too shy for the camera, the light improved as the sun came out.

It took us the guesstimated 3 hours to end our walk at the Pananderia (we have not found much variety in baked goods in Central America and this place was no exception). We shopped a little at the open air market near the hotel before having some supper at the usual place. In the evening, you would think we would need to spend some time resting our feet in the hammocks on the patio, however, we walked the nearby neighborhoods, soaking up the tropical sights, sounds and smells as the sun set.

El Residencial:
Bananaquit
Blue and White Swallow

Cerro Gaital:
Smooth-billed Ani
Swallow-tailed Kite
Green Hermit
Silver-throated Tanager
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch
Chestnut-backed Antbird

Road to Town:
Common Bush-Tanager
Tawny-capped Euphonia
*Tawny-crested Tanager
Blue-throated Toucanet

Glad you got the bobwhite and the grass-finch! Not sure if the mystery hummingbird is a Sapphire-throated- I just can't see enough to say for sure what it is!
 
Hi, Patrick -
That hike to India Dormida was a fun day. I like working for and getting target birds.
By the way, I'm following and enjoying your blog still. We're leaning towards yet another CR trip for a winter trip, thanks to your "teasers". See if you can get those roads fixed, will ya?

Steve
 
Day 12 - May 24th

Conveniently, the rain came down hard in the night and dawn light showed dark clouds with humidity that was off the charts. By 7am, we were dropped off at the headquarters of the Metropolitan Park we had heard so much about. $4 later, we were setting out on the El Roble trail, which parallels Juan Pablo Avenue.

The traffic noise didn't seem to bother our first bird, 20 feet inside the forest - a immature Tiny Hawk. It stayed posed on a low level branch for a few pictures in the still dim light. Hard to improve on a bird that good and it wasn't until we had reached the Mono Titi trail that we found another new bird for us, a Lance-tailed Manakin. After that, activity was pretty constant, though we were not picking up any more new birds. In a light shower, we finished the loop that includes the La Cienaguita trail, we crossed the avenue and did the Los Momotides trail and finally, to finish off the park's trail system, we walked Los Caobos. The highlight was a nice view of a Slate-colored Grosbeak passing in a mixed flock.

Our day ended revisiting the beginning of the Mono Titi trail, which leads to a defunct observation crane, used some time ago by biologists. We found a few good birds there, the last of our last day. A pair of Dot-winged Antwrens that charmed us with their flirtatious activity, an Orange-billed Sparrow, trying to lurk but having a tough time doing so with that outrageous bill and a Blue-crowned Motmot, whooping softly as he waved his magic wand.

We didn't leave until after 5pm, taking a $3 taxi ride back to the inn. Thorwald Westmaas, the owner of Balboa Inn, and I had a nice, long talk and then it was off to Nikko's again. I had to have another mora con leche (blackberry with milk) smoothie with our meal. We bought some sweet bread and retired to our rooms for a long session of packing our bags for plane travel.

Day list for Metro Park:

*Tiny Hawk
Orange-chinned Parakeet
Blue-gray Tanager
Clay-colored Thrush
Crested Caracara
Ruddy-ground Dove
Great-tailed Grackle
Variable Seedeater
Social Flycatcher
Red-legged Honeycreeper
*Lance-tailed Manakin
Black-chested Jay
Yellow-backed Oriole
Rufous-breasted Wren
Squirrel Cuckoo
Red-throated Ant-Tanager
Yellow-rumped Cacique
Plain Xenops
Black-throated Trogon
Long-billed Gnatwren
Rufous and White Wren
White-shouldered Tanager
Scarlet-rumped Cacique
Linneated Woodpecker
*Slate-colored Grosbeak
Plain-colored Tanager
Red-crowned Woodpecker
Slaty Antshrike
White-tipped Dove
Tawny-crowned Greenlet
Dot-winged Antwren
Blue-crowned Motmot
Gray-headed Tanager
Orange-billed Sparrow

Day 13 - May 25th

Extra early departure this morning. Amazingly, the staff at Balboa was up before us, with breakfast and food for the road. In the non-existent traffic, the taxi driver took less than 30 minutes to get to the airport. Traffic in the airport terminal was also very low. We paid our exit visa, went through customs, security and were at our gate in 25 minutes, which was all of 90 minutes early. With time on our hands, I got out my binoculars and found several Barn Swallows, new for the trip. In the distance, I imagine I was looking at Tocumen marsh, were several Great Egrets and the bird I thought would greet us when we arrived in Panama, turned out to be the last - the Talingo.

END
 

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Metro park birds
 

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Last pictures.
 

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Tiny Hawk & Lance-tailed Manakin, what a great way to finish the trip. :t:

Many thanks for posting this fabulous report, it's brought back some wonderful memories for me.
 
Thanks, Dave. We had a great time as always in Central America. I hope the report wasn't too wordy for everyone. But, I don't feel as if I covered half the details. Such a rich place to visit!

Motmot -
We carried the Garrigues and dean's Costa Rica book with us as well as Ridgely's Panama bird book. If you have both, check out the difference between drawings of the Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet. If you have Styles and Skutch's CR guide, throw that into the mix. My photographed bird has the belly of G&D's bird but the wing markings are yellow not white. It has the head of Ridgely's bird, i.e., no eye stripe. The bird we saw showed no yellow crown, never mind the short primaries.
I guess we need more experience with these birds. I know - we'll plan another trip! |:d|
 
Hamhed, thanks for taking me on a visit to some places I would love to go back to! Your writing is really good.

There are several of these photos you should upload to the gallery as well: for example, your Buff-breasted Wren, there is one picture in Opus and none in the gallery of this species !

You also saw some birds that make me green with envy :t:

Niels
 
Okay, Motmot, you've convinced me, especially with the pictures. I'm not getting the yellow crown, looks more like some light streaking but hey, I don't need a twisted arm to check off another life bird. Thanks for the i.d. You go to Costa Rica often, don't you?

Patrick - Liz spotted the hawk; I was well behind her, fiddling with the adjustments on my new pack. We did have some good birding on the last day and many of the other days. I'm bad for not keeping a day list but Liz is trying to do that. We keep it on a digital recorder and transfer the list to paper in the evening. Shouldn't be all that hard. And it looks better in the trip report.

Niels, thanks for the compliment on the writing. I hope I've provided some helpful information for other travelers while not boring anyone with too may details. Its a fine line!|:d|
and I will post some wren pics.
 
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