B,
Very nice photos.
Your camera problem sounds like a technical fault. I've never had this with a Nikon camera. You don't have a magnet close to the camera do you. Also is your battery ok?
Neil
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Nikon P5100 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Neil
- Start date
B,
Very nice photos.
Your camera problem sounds like a technical fault. I've never had this with a Nikon camera. You don't have a magnet close to the camera do you. Also is your battery ok?
Neil
Binocularface
You've all got one...............!
Thanks Neil :t:
I do not have a magnet close to the camera and all my batteries seem to be fine.
Epsomsalt
Well-known member
hi All, excellent thread. I am about to buy a secondhand Swarovski ATS 80HD and it is coming with a DCB-A digiscoping bracket. Do I need anything else to attach the P5100 to the scope other than the DCB-A bracket?
Thanks for your help
Chris
P.S. Should also have added it has the 20-60 S Zoom eyepiece
Thanks for your help
Chris
P.S. Should also have added it has the 20-60 S Zoom eyepiece
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Chris,
The DCB is a fine piece of engineering but you don't need it with the P5100 as you can fit an adapter to the camera which works with the DCA adapter. http://www.opticsplanet.net/swdcadiadfor.html
A much simpler connection. If you are getting the DCB thrown in with the price then use it.
Neil.
Neil.
Jaff
Registered Member
Just seen this and noticed the ISO at 64. While they are nice shots for sure don't be afraid to up the ISO, even in bright light, you can never have to much shutter speed in digiscoping, that's what I say. :t:
On a similar note, a general observation I've made lately for anyone reading this is that shallow DOF has been a problem for some shots I did lately. For anyone who's seen the Tawny Owl in my gallery I had to bin a whole load of shots because the centre of the camera was pointed at the belly but it meant the head was out of focus (I was pretty close to it). Bottom line being I had to set the camera down to it's smallest aperture (adjusting my ISO&Shutterspeed accordingly) and it was much better. Not really relevant if you're some distance from your subject but when it's close-up scoping it could spoil an otherwise golden opportunity. Just wanted to give people some some heads-up. :t:
Cheers.
Adam
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jason stannage
Well-known member
hi chris, how our you getting on have you obtained the scope and have you tried it .
Dennis,
The P5100 will do a good job on most scopes and eyepieces with the 52 mm third party adapter. The P6000 behaves similarly but has RAW and wider lens. You can find a 52 mm third party adapter for it too.
Neil.
Thanks for the info. On the other hand, I found out that the P5100 uses a 28mm ring and UR-E20 adapter. How does one relate the above to the 52mm adapter/ring? Not sure if I make sense out of this, but I have a Kowa 66 and the Kowa TSN-DA1 digital camera adapter has 52mm threads. In a nutshell, what else do I need to connect the P5100 to the Kowa accessories that I already have?
I use third party adapters for all my cameras ( usually available in HK before the originals )
http://www.adorama.com/INKURA5.html
Neil.
Epsomsalt
Well-known member
Hi, I have bought the scope - a Swarovski ATS 80HD and we are well pleased with it. The Scope came with the 20-60 S Zoom and the DCB-A digiscoping bracket. We have tried this with our existing camera - a canon A570IS but to be honest the camera is not up to the job. Still pondering over which camera to buy Nikon P6000 seems favourite although there are a few adverse comments about slow AF. Budget would be around £250-£300, any ideas?
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jason stannage
Well-known member
QUOTE=Epsomsalt;1519460]Hi, I have bought the scope - a Swarovski ATS 80HD and we are well pleased with it. The Scope came with the 20-60 S Zoom and the DCB-A digiscoping bracket. We have tried this with our existing camera - a canon A570IS but to be honest the camera is not up to the job. Still pondering over which camera to buy Nikon P6000 seems favourite although there are a few adverse comments about slow AF. Budget would be around £250-£300, any ideas?[/QUOTE]
you could try a 2nd hand p5100 for around £100- £160 on ebay you should also pick up a swarovski dca for about £50-£60 adapter tube £15 that should do the trick nicely or try the wanted section on the forum i picked a brand new p5100 up the other month for £100 + loads of extras good luck jason :t:
you could try a 2nd hand p5100 for around £100- £160 on ebay you should also pick up a swarovski dca for about £50-£60 adapter tube £15 that should do the trick nicely or try the wanted section on the forum i picked a brand new p5100 up the other month for £100 + loads of extras good luck jason :t:
Help
I haven't read through all thread so apologies if previously covered:
1) When I lock the focus and it goes turquoise instead of red,why do I still get some blurred images even when taking something that isn't moving. I know there's heat haze etc. but how can it lock the focus, but still end up not focused. Surely heat haze etc. ought to result in a red display anot one that suggests it has focused.
2) Are there any screens etc. that prevent screen glare. On bright sunny days I can't see the screen to ficus.
Thanks.
I haven't read through all thread so apologies if previously covered:
1) When I lock the focus and it goes turquoise instead of red,why do I still get some blurred images even when taking something that isn't moving. I know there's heat haze etc. but how can it lock the focus, but still end up not focused. Surely heat haze etc. ought to result in a red display anot one that suggests it has focused.
2) Are there any screens etc. that prevent screen glare. On bright sunny days I can't see the screen to ficus.
Thanks.
The cameras can still show the AF is locked even when not in focus. The further the distance and the more you zoom the camera lens is the more errors in focus will creep in.
The way to improve the number of sharp images is to focus on the bird's legs/rock/branch and not it's body. Sometimes the plumage doesn't give enough contrast for accurate focus ( eg egrets ).
Also reduce the camera zoom and increase the eyepiece magnification rather than increase the camera zoom too far . I don't like to go over 60% zoom without switching to Manual Focus (Infinity ).
For lens shade try Hoodman
http://hoodmanusa.com/
Neil
rockfowl
Mark Andrews
These are very good, I've one attached via stick on velcro
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000KZB7...iveASIN=B000KZB7GQ&adid=11FDXCNTRCXRJVQQ7XZ7&
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000KZB7...iveASIN=B000KZB7GQ&adid=11FDXCNTRCXRJVQQ7XZ7&
Cheers, thanks for the info.
The only problem I find in reducing the zoom is vignetting, (if that's the right term) and I have to zoom through to avoid this.
I'm guessing you mean to zoom and crop later on the PC. I will try this.
What's best, spot or centre-weighted? Any other tips for knowing you are in focus - does using the dig. zoom up high to see work, then reducing back into optical?
Re. the lens does this defo. fit the 5100?
Thanks again.
The only problem I find in reducing the zoom is vignetting, (if that's the right term) and I have to zoom through to avoid this.
I'm guessing you mean to zoom and crop later on the PC. I will try this.
What's best, spot or centre-weighted? Any other tips for knowing you are in focus - does using the dig. zoom up high to see work, then reducing back into optical?
Re. the lens does this defo. fit the 5100?
Thanks again.
Some vignetting need not be a bad thing. In digiscoping the local birds coming down to water I have to set the P6000 (similar to P5100) to wide zoom which gives me a sharp vignetting circle . I do this as I want to keep some space around the bird as they don't stay in the same place for very long. The distance is 6-10 metres.
I have found that most adapters don't allow you to move the camera back and forward far enough as the lens is zoomed to minimise/eliminate vignetting. A universal type adapter will make this easier.
Neil
Hong Kong,
China.
July 2009
