Hawaii - Part Two - Oahu (1 Viewer)

[Hamhed]

Our arrival in Oahu was not the smooth transition a traveler always hopes for. Rental car problems continued to follow us through Dollar, who is apparently partners with Hertz. Without going into tedious detail, we were only allowed a single driver unless we wanted to pay a significant increase in price. We accepted that and were shown our choice of economy cars. On inspection, there were no gas caps on either car. Again, we were given an upgrade to an intermediate model and after cleaning a wad of gum off the floor mat, we were ready to go. Asking directions at the exit of the rental agency, we were misdirected to a closed highway entrance which forced us to go the opposite direction on H1, a fast moving, six lane, limited access highway. We made a hurried mistake by dropping off onto the first available exit which took us to the very restricted Hickam Air Force base and were promptly escorted back out through the gate.
A series of head scratching, rights and lefts finally got us going east, into the Manoa Valley above the University of Hawaii and to our Airbnb location well after dark and in a fairly exhausted frame of mind.

https://ebird.org/checklist/S121903625

https://ebird.org/checklist/S121919845

https://ebird.org/checklist/S121919930

 

[Hamhed]

Day Twelve 11-6
Hanauma Bay is a state run, watery, nature preserve and very popular. So popular, visitation is limited. And again, so popular, it is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays to allow the fish to recover from the snorkeling assault of previous days. Somehow, we didn’t know this, upsetting our plans for our first day on Oahu. Never mind, our backup plan was put into action - hiking the Aiea Loop and Ridge trails. Both of Oahu’s endemics are reported here regularly along with other species not found on the Big Island. We left our shoebox of a apartment, headed down University Avenue and made our way west, past the airport, carefully staying to the back roads and avoiding confusing highway construction detours.
Keaiwa Heiau park offered a shady space to park and our first Red-vented Bulbul and Red-crested Cardinals. Zebra Doves, as numerous here as on the Big Island, shared the grassy areas with Golden Plovers, Canaries and Red Junglefowl. A few minutes walk uphill brought us to the head of the Upper Aiea Loop trail. We dutifully scrubbed our feet in the boot brush provided and joined a good number of other Sunday visitors walking on the wide dirt path. The sheer number of dogs and staff carrying hikers kept bird sightings to a minimum until we reached the Ridge Trail and had the place to ourselves. The Ridge was more open than the wooded Loop trail, at times no wider than a few feet. Warbling White-eyes and Common Waxbills were readily seen, with one Waxbill seen carrying straw to a nest site. In the valley below, a flock of Red-masked Parakeets carried on. Postcard views of steep, lush mountain sides and deep valleys were around nearly every bend. A pair of Oahu Amakihis, looking very much like their Big Island counterparts, were spotted before darting down the thickly vegetated slope. At all times, we scanned the sky for the rarest of the rare, a Marianna Swiftlet. The only swift on the island, identification would not be a problem. Their very limited numbers would be. On the occasions that we were not looking up, being on the ridge meant most of the birds would be below us. That was where our eyes were focused where another rare species, one that had not been included on my potential species list. Preening in a low shrub, just below trail level, was a Yellow-faced Grassquit, a bird seldom reported anywhere on Oahu. Fortunately, the bird was intent on cleaning itself so multiple photos were easily taken.
We continued on the sometimes very steep Ridge trail for some time, enjoying the solitude and views, hoping for that Swiftlet to come into view. Bird sightings became widely spaced apart and rain began, so we returned to the Loop Trail, with the Lower Aiea Loop trail waiting. Peanut butter lunch made up and eaten at an overlook. Without the continued rain, we might have stayed for a last Swiftlet scan.
With intermittent wet weather still following us, we weren’t initially finding many birds but fairly far along, the rain stopped and the birds became active. We first found a perched White-rumped Shama, big and bold, then seeing more in the area. Singing Red-whiskered Bulbuls were next, posing nicely as the Shama did. A mixed flock of feeding Leiothrix and White-eyes had another bird mixed in, a brown and white flycatcher - an Elepaio! We had thought our chances at this endemic were gone with our drop from higher elevations on the Ridge Trail. Watching the bird flit in and out of visibility, I almost forgot the camera, getting a poor but diagnostic shot just before it was gone. The two endemics now seen, the Grassquit as icing on the cake, the hike turned out to be a productive alternative to our planned snorkeling.
A stop at a local grocery, then take out supper from the Nishi Moncho Ramen noodle house and we were back, facing a pile of dirty clothes. Though our living quarters were small, we did have access to a washer and dryer and made frequent use of it. The little porch had a view of the night lights in the valley below and had what our room did not - chairs!

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122001502

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122001503

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122001501

The beginning of the Upper Aiea Loop Trail
The Aiea Ridge Trail
Common Waxbill
Yellow-faced Grassquit
H3, the newest cross island highway from the Ridge Trail

 

[Hamhed]

Though we were unable to read anywhere how the Aiea Trail is divided into the Upper and Lower sections, we believe the starting point for the Lower Trail is less easily found, being in the picnic/camping area below the entrance road. The Upper Trail is most visible and would start the nearly four mile loop in a clockwise direction. The other end of the two trails would be where they meet at the Aiea Ridge Trail. Anyway, this makes most sense to us.

White-rumped Shama
Red-whiskered Bulbul
Red-billed Leiothrix

 

[Hamhed]

Day Thirteen 11-7
The jalousie windows did little to stop the sound of overnight rain but that was a pleasant sound to sleep to. When we did get going, we became aware that Hawaiians are slow to rise; breakfast at most cafes and even the Safeway grocery were not open until 8am. The McDonalds, in the same shopping center opened at 5am, however, and we made this our default early breakfast stop for my coffee and biscuit. It was understandably typically busy.

Using a tip gleaned from watching Oahu snorkeling reviews on YouTube, we parked at the Honolulu Zoo so that we could easily walk through a corner of Kapiolani Park to Queen’s Beach. The lot was inexpensive compared to street meters. A pay by credit card arrangement, with a text message when prepaid time was nearing its end.
Floating above schools of Yellow and Convict Tang, Parrotfish, Goatfish, Moorish Idols, Sergeant Majors, Wrasses and so many others was incredibly relaxing and exciting at the same time. As I said earlier, a watery counterpart to birding.
Kapiolani Park had a few birds we wanted to see. We ditched our wetsuits and snorkel gear, added time to our parking space and walked off into the 160 acre park. The part of the park that we covered was mostly open grassed areas under large trees. The tree cover attracted Rose-ringed Parakeets who so magically disappeared into the tops of these trees that we seldom got good views. Foraging the grass were dozens of Common Mynas, Red-crested Cardinals, Yellow-fronted Canaries and Common Waxbills. Zebra Doves and Rock Pigeons were there in large numbers as well. Besides the Parakeets, the trees held Red-vented Bulbuls, Warbling White-eyes and a single White-rumped Shama. Just a few Java Sparrows and six flyover target birds that also proved to be too scarce to see closely, White Terns. These could possibly be found roosting early and late in other parts of the park or in other nearby parks. We also saw them flying over the Safeway parking lot one morning. Finally, in a small pond, hybrid Mallard/Hawaiian Ducks were floating or resting in the grass. Pure Hawaiian Ducks are not found on either the Oahu we learned but best seen on Kauai. The Big Island did have a single location for them but drought had dried up the pond they frequented and the ducks had not been seen recently. We were grateful for this precise information passed along by Richard May, saving us a long drive to an empty space.
At some point, we needed to focus on seabirds so we drove to a few coastal locations. Lanai Lookout was very windy with several Rock Pigeons seen. At the Halona Blowhole, where a natural fissure in the lava shoreline allows the surf to shoot up like a whale spout, a Red-tailed Tropicbird flew out from the shoreline and down along the shoreline. Score one seabird! Makapu’u Point gave us our first Hawaiian Green Sea Turtle floating below us and more Rock Pigeons. Our last stop was a uphill hike to view the Makapu’u Lighthouse. We passed Mynas, Waxbills and Zebra Doves before nearing the top and sighting two Great Frigatebirds over the jagged peak tree Makapu’u Point. In late afternoon, we glided down the paved walkway, happy with our success.
I sighted a mongoose, a terrible mammalian addition to the islands. Brought in to control rats in the sugarcane fields over a hundred years ago, no one apparently realized until too late that the rats were nocturnal and went to the trees to sleep. The mongoose is diurnal and does not climb. The mongoose has no predators except for the thin population of hawks.
As we climbed in the car to return to Manoa, we both noticed I was hoarse, no doubt too much salt air. The next day, we would find out otherwise.

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122042516

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122054949

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122055042

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122055063

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122054926

The shoreline at Makapu’u Point
Hawaiian Green Sea Turtle
Great Frigatebird
Mongoose

 

[Parabellum]

Day Twelve 11-6
Hanauma Bay is a state run, watery, nature preserve and very popular. So popular, visitation is limited. And again, so popular, it is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays to allow the fish to recover from the snorkeling assault of previous days. Somehow, we didn’t know this, upsetting our plans for our first day on Oahu. Never mind, our backup plan was put into action - hiking the Aiea Loop and Ridge trails. Both of Oahu’s endemics are reported here regularly along with other species not found on the Big Island. We left our shoebox of a apartment, headed down University Avenue and made our way west, past the airport, carefully staying to the back roads and avoiding confusing highway construction detours.
Keaiwa Heiau park offered a shady space to park and our first Red-vented Bulbul and Red-crested Cardinals. Zebra Doves, as numerous here as on the Big Island, shared the grassy areas with Golden Plovers, Canaries and Red Junglefowl. A few minutes walk uphill brought us to the head of the Upper Aiea Loop trail. We dutifully scrubbed our feet in the boot brush provided and joined a good number of other Sunday visitors walking on the wide dirt path. The sheer number of dogs and staff carrying hikers kept bird sightings to a minimum until we reached the Ridge Trail and had the place to ourselves. The Ridge was more open than the wooded Loop trail, at times no wider than a few feet. Warbling White-eyes and Common Waxbills were readily seen, with one Waxbill seen carrying straw to a nest site. In the valley below, a flock of Red-masked Parakeets carried on. Postcard views of steep, lush mountain sides and deep valleys were around nearly every bend. A pair of Oahu Amakihis, looking very much like their Big Island counterparts, were spotted before darting down the thickly vegetated slope. At all times, we scanned the sky for the rarest of the rare, a Marianna Swiftlet. The only swift on the island, identification would not be a problem. Their very limited numbers would be. On the occasions that we were not looking up, being on the ridge meant most of the birds would be below us. That was where our eyes were focused where another rare species, one that had not been included on my potential species list. Preening in a low shrub, just below trail level, was a Yellow-faced Grassquit, a bird seldom reported anywhere on Oahu. Fortunately, the bird was intent on cleaning itself so multiple photos were easily taken.
We continued on the sometimes very steep Ridge trail for some time, enjoying the solitude and views, hoping for that Swiftlet to come into view. Bird sightings became widely spaced apart and rain began, so we returned to the Loop Trail, with the Lower Aiea Loop trail waiting. Peanut butter lunch made up and eaten at an overlook. Without the continued rain, we might have stayed for a last Swiftlet scan.
With intermittent wet weather still following us, we weren’t initially finding many birds but fairly far along, the rain stopped and the birds became active. We first found a perched White-rumped Shama, big and bold, then seeing more in the area. Singing Red-whiskered Bulbuls were next, posing nicely as the Shama did. A mixed flock of feeding Leiothrix and White-eyes had another bird mixed in, a brown and white flycatcher - an Elepaio! We had thought our chances at this endemic were gone with our drop from higher elevations on the Ridge Trail. Watching the bird flit in and out of visibility, I almost forgot the camera, getting a poor but diagnostic shot just before it was gone. The two endemics now seen, the Grassquit as icing on the cake, the hike turned out to be a productive alternative to our planned snorkeling.
A stop at a local grocery, then take out supper from the Nishi Moncho Ramen noodle house and we were back, facing a pile of dirty clothes. Though our living quarters were small, we did have access to a washer and dryer and made frequent use of it. The little porch had a view of the night lights in the valley below and had what our room did not - chairs!

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122001502

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122001503

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122001501

The beginning of the Upper Aiea Loop Trail
The Aiea Ridge Trail
Common Waxbill
Yellow-faced Grassquit
H3, the newest cross island highway from the Ridge Trail

Beautiful pictures but it sucks your having setbacks

 

[Hamhed]

Day Fourteen 11-8
Throat sore, sensitive to my morning coffee, we stuck to the original plan of driving across the Ko’olau Mountains to Kailua Beach. Though the forecast was for strong easterly winds, we had hopes of renting a boat to kayak a couple of miles to Moku Nui, one of the two islands popularly known as The Mokes. Several outfitters thrive on sending tourists out to snorkel at the island but today the forecast held true and the whitecaps convinced us to change plans.

We once had ideas to visit the islands in early October but the rates for plane fare and lodging were only avoided by moving our timing three weeks closer to the winter season. Now on the cusp of the seasons, we were seeing the beginnings of changes in weather.

Fortunately, birding sites were close at hand. A few short miles away, we followed the eBird hotspot marker to Ka’elepulu Wetland, ending up on a side street adjacent to the marsh but on the wrong side of a fence. Still, we had good views of near marsh grasses with small pools of water. Common Gallinules, Hawaiian Coots and hybrid ducks were easily seen, a few Mynas and other assorted common birds. We were here because Chestnut Munias had been reported but not regularly. It didn’t seem common anywhere so we had a few locations in mind to try. That concern disappeared as five Munias flew in to a patch of dried grasses, feeding on seed heads and giving us time for photos. Not 30 minutes had passed; a good start to the day’s list. We chatted briefly with a University graduate student who was looking for nesting Cattle Egrets.

Another short drive to Kawainui Marsh, joining dog walkers and others strolling atop a berm on a wide cinder pathway overlooking a narrow canal. That description doesn’t make the place sound very attractive but we saw decent bird variety here, over a dozen Red-vented Bulbuls, Zebra Doves and Common Mynas. Several species of Cardinals, Java Sparrows, Coots and Plovers and a few surprises. As in Chestnut Munias, 8 of them to be exact with closer looks than at the previous location. Another pair of unexpected birds were Red Avadavats, feeding on grass seeds right on the edge of the walkway.

Cancelling the kayak excursion left us with unplanned time to work with. Nu’upia Ponds is an eBird hotspot and nearby but we were turned away at the gate by a courteous Marine since the ponds lay within the peninsula’s Kaneohe Marine Base. Again, information on how this can be an eBird hotspot with no access is puzzling. Moving on a little further north to another option at He’eia State Park. In hindsight, I think we were attracted to the potential of snorkeling here. We tried that, swimming near the first mangroves we’d seen in Hawaii, but low tide and murky conditions had us quickly back out of the water. After a picnic lunch at the park, Liz drove us back across the mountains to park again at the Honolulu Zoo for a second try at snorkeling. Despite my wetsuit, I felt cold and exited the water in just a matter of minutes. Sitting in the sun, leaning on a black, lava rock wall in my black wetsuit, I should have been uncomfortably hot. Instead, I was shivering uncontrollably. By the time Liz joined me, I had recovered enough to use the wash station to clean our suits and go back to the car for the quick trip “home”. Recognizing now that I had a fever as well as a sore throat and cough, the possibility of Covid seemed likely.

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122081803

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122108652

Kawainui Marsh
Spotted Dove
Chestnut Munias

 

[Hamhed]

Day Fifteen 11-9
Liz thoughtfully packed a set of Covid tests. Of course, we hoped not to have the occasion to use any of them but a nasal swab quickly showed me to have Covid. More careful than most for the past two and a half years, one slip somewhere was going to cost me. Luckily, Liz was feeling okay. The antidote to feeling bad is sometimes to do what feels good so I joined Liz for a walk around the neighborhood to stretch our legs before our drive to our last Oahu location.
By nine, we had loaded the car and we’re leaving the hillside location, on our way again across the mountains to Hau’ula on the northeast coast.
This part of Oahu is fairly picturesque, the coastal road often hugging the shoreline with plenty of ocean views to our right. On the left hand view, only a few miles distant, were forested, steep mountains. As we traveled further the south end of Oahu, the beach town vibe that we saw at the airport returned.
I will point out here that, with the exception of the highway system around Honolulu, driving on both islands was not stressful. Polite and non-aggressive driving were the norm and we travelers were very grateful for that.
Our room not available as yet, we went past Hau’ula to La’ie Point, a spear of lava rock, surrounded on three sides by crashing waves and a seemingly perfect location for spotting pelagic species. Parking is limited at the dead end street to about six cars. The Point is a photogenic and popular location; there is often a waiting game for one of those parking spots to be free. We sighted another turtle during our short visit here but no seabirds utilizing the strong sea breezes. Instead, we enjoyed the view, surf split by Kukuihoolua Island with a large hole drilled neatly through the exposed rock of this Historical Landmark and the blue sky beyond.
I’d been reading about nearby Kahuku Golf Course and the Bristle-thighed Curlews that often utilized the open grassy habitat to forage during their winter vacation on the island. An alternate and better location for the Curlews, the James C. Campbell NWR, adjacent to the course, was only open to guided trips and only on Saturdays. This did not coincide with our visiting dates and we had to hope the Curlews would be at the course, comfortable dodging golf balls and golf carts. Our first attempt at accessing the course was to turn off Route 83, the coastal road, onto Puuluana Street. In a couple of blocks, we faced a signed road that essentially stopped us from going any further. Rechecking our location on our map programs, we felt like we were in the right place but the “Government Property No Trespassing” warning seemed pretty clear. Confused as to how we could be mistaken in our directions, we tried another option, the South Golf Course Road. This led through a residential area to the course but no clubhouse in sight, meaning not likely the main entrance. Still, we slowly cruised the limited roads available until, on the way out, Liz stopped the car next to the last bit of course and pointed out three Bristle-thighed Curlews in easy view. We had come close to seeing this species on an Alaska trip years ago but a flat tire stopped us from reaching their breeding grounds and we never had a second chance. A hole in our list now unexpectedly filled, Liz drove us to our furthest point north, the Kahuku Aqua ponds, viewable from a wide, grassy strip alongside the coastal road. As anticipated, this series of ponds produced nothing new but Hawaiian Coots, both red-shielded and white-shielded ruled the ponds, with Hawaiian Stilts, Black-crowned Night-Herons, Cattle Egrets, Pacific Golden-Plovers and Common Mynas adding to the species visible.
Looking for a celebratory smoothie, we finally located an open shop and brought our drink to Kokololio Beach Park, a scenic, long and narrow, roadside park a mile north of Hau’ula. Liz took a walk into the park while I tried to nap in the car. Not without difficulty as a group of young people were practicing their Samoan Fire Sword Dance which entailed a good deal of drumming.
We finally arrived at our new Airbnb, impressed immediately by the significant upgrade from our stay in Oahu. Off street, gated parking, large and well appointed rooms, greeted upon arrival by our gracious hostess who made sure we understood lock systems, the automatic gate and recycling bins. She also made us aware of a local trail system, easily accessed by a short walk through the neighborhood.
After unloading, I collapsed, Liz went back out to find food which was more difficult than it should have been. In this area, Wednesday is a popular day of the week for food trucks and restaurants to be closed.
Loud television noise and barking dogs quieted by 9pm and we slept soundly.

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122140644

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122143349

Kukuihoolua Island from La’ie Point
Bristle-thighed Curlew
Entrance to Kahuku Golf Course

 

[Hamhed]

Day Sixteen 11-10
Our last full day on the island and still tired and slightly feverish, we decide to see if I could manage to walk some of the Hau’ula Loop Trail. Despite being short of breath, laughing constantly and probably slightly feverish, I did pretty well. The birds were active and that helped spur me on to the next bend or the next patch of trees, many of which were Norfolk Island Pines and quite large. Numbers of Zebra Doves, Warbling White-eyes, Red-billed Leiothrix, Red-whiskered Bulbuls were seen. We also saw and heard more of the musical White-rumped Shama. Tired but glad we made the effort to hike the nearly 3 mile mountainside trail, we attempted to return through the neighborhood but were redirected by a county worker saying they’d begun work on a bridge repair job and it was unsafe to pass back through their site. This necessitated a half mile detour, walking down to the coastal road and back uphill again. Again, I chose to rest in our room while Liz made a run to Long’s Drugs and Laura’s Market for food and drugs. Obviously, our situation would have been so much more difficult if Liz had also gotten Covid.
As it was, we eventually left again for scenic La’ie Point, this time having a Masked Booby fly directly over our heads. Charged by that seabird sighting, we stayed for an hour, never seeing anything more than another turtle, the constant action of waves and a procession of visitors taking selfies with Kukuihoolua Island as a background.
Our hiking shoes had collected mud from the morning hike so, conscious of transporting unwanted seeds back to our hometown, spent some time at Kokololio Beach Park with various tools, digging out the muck from our soles, then walking out to the beach before returning to our Airbnb for some late day packing.

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122207722

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122207723

Hau’ula Loop Trail
The deserted beach at Kokololio Park

 

[Hamhed]

Day Seventeen 11-11
One morning left in the Hawaiian Islands. We returned to the initial Kahuku Golf Course entry point as eBird had a new report of nesting Wedge-tailed Shearwaters there. Someone had gained access but how? Car loaded with luggage, we drove north determined to find an answer. As we approached the Government sign and parked, a dog walker came down the “restricted” road. I asked him about the “keep out” sign and he seemed surprised, saying he hardly noticed the sign and didn’t really know why it was there. Just go up a couple of hundred yards and you’ll see the trailer that serves as a clubhouse. We drove to a small, gravel parking lot, seeing the trailer and, still a little confused, left the car for a grass cart path at the end of the lot. We were talking to someone about where we were allowed to go and where the Shearwaters might be when our newly met friend and dog caught up with us, offering to lead us to a occupied nest he’d seen earlier. We followed man and dog to a series of holes in the sandy soil along the side of the cart path. The face of a Shearwater in the third hole was almost a surprise as I half expected our “guide” to be joking. We found another nesting bird but left quickly for fear of disturbing them. To be truthful though, the birds did not seem at all agitated by our close presence, likely adapted to the presence of people and carts.

We moved on, saying goodbye and thanks to our helpful friend. Next, our aimless walk took us past a roped off, tall grass area which served as a bird sanctuary and likely a errant golf ball repository as well. Afterwards, a fenced cemetery, Japanese, I think and some scrub habitat separating the course from the sand beach. I’m not sure what led us on; maybe trying to get another look at Curlews, (we saw only one flying). It wasn’t the multiple Doves, Plovers or other assorted grass loving birds. But, something got us to cut through a narrow opening in the thick hedge to the ocean’s edge and the sight that greeted us was amazing. Dozens of Brown Noddies were tacking low over the surf, all headed north, a steady stream that continued strong for nearly twenty minutes. In a sweep from my left to right view, I easily counted forty birds. My estimation for the time we observed this spectacle was a minimum of 250 birds. I must admit, we first misidentified these birds, thinking they must be Shearwaters, but adequate photos and much appreciated help from eBird reviewer Kellen Apuna, corrected our eBird posting. Adding to our identification confusion was that eBird charts show no evidence of Brown Noddies being seen at all at this location in October or November. Kellen posed that the beach at the course receives so little visitation from birders during those months that the Noddies go unnoticed.

As the birds passed, I took many photos, trying to capture the essence of the scene. While I did that, we noticed there were a few larger, white birds with the Noddies, several of which were the last target bird we could have hoped for, Red-footed Boobies. Other Boobies would remain unidentifiable but those three would do just fine.
Very conscious of our upcoming drive down the coast and across the mountains to the airport, we left, perhaps a little too soon; it was not quite 9am.
On our return drive, the Polynesian Culture Center had some large, carved statues we remembered to photograph.
Realizing we didn’t want to get to the airport too early, we made a last birding stop at coastal Kualoa Regional Park, we walked for 45 minutes, taking in last looks at Zebra Doves, Golden Plovers, Mynas, Red-crested Cardinals, Bulbuls, a flock of 40 Ruddy Turnstones, Stilts, Canaries, Finches and a final pair of Chestnut Munias. Besides the birds, we had wide ocean views with famed Chinaman’s Hat poking up through the blue water and kayakers, testing their skills in the rough water. In the other direction, a row of steep, forested mountains, a common sight on this coast. A fine morning to end our birding adventure, we finished the drive, used the back roads to avoid the interstate, successfully filled the gas tank and returned the car. I lost my penknife to security, one I’ve had for many birding trips and used this trip to help repair Liz’s snorkel mask and clean the deep tread of my boots.

Delta took off on time and got us to LA a few minutes early due to a strong tailwind. We requested and got a room on the quiet side of the motel. Back in the North Carolina mountains the next day and in much different temperatures than Hawaii. Credit to Delta for on time flights and no lost luggage.

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122245376

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122245321

November 30
As I finish this report, both Kilauea and Mauna Loa on the Big Island has been erupting for a few days with lava beginning to flow slowly to the northeast. There is no current danger to the town of Hilo or other populated areas but as it has been 38 years since the last eruption, we might have missed a once-in-a-lifetime photo opportunity. Those planning their own upcoming trip may want to take heed!

Kahuku Golf Course entrance sign
Wedge-tailed Shearwater in nest burrow
Brown Noddies
Red-footed Booby
Chinaman’s Hat
A Hawaiian message to birders

 

[McMadd]

Though we were unable to read anywhere how the Aiea Trail is divided into the Upper and Lower sections, we believe the starting point for the Lower Trail is less easily found, being in the picnic/camping area below the entrance road. The Upper Trail is most visible and would start the nearly four mile loop in a clockwise direction. The other end of the two trails would be where they meet at the Aiea Ridge Trail. Anyway, this makes most sense to us.

White-rumpled Shama
Red-whispered Bulbul
Oahu Elepaio

Great report but did you load one wrong photo or caption it wrong? Looks like you have the Shama, Bulbul and a leiothrix?

 

[Hamhed]

Beautiful pictures but it sucks your having setbacks

Do plans ever go smoothly? In hindsight, most troubles were minor. I’m just glad Covid didn’t hit me worse or put me in the hospital. Still not quite over that, three weeks later. Then there’s the recent eruptions on the Big Island. Now, that has potential to cause a setback!

Steve

 

[Hamhed]

Great report but did you load one wrong photo or caption it wrong? Looks like you have the Shama, Bulbul and a leiothrix?

Yes, spell checked to an amusing outcome, the Elepaio missing apparently swallowed by the Leiothrix.
I used to do this on a desktop computer, labeling all the photos ahead of time and getting them sorted to the right day.But now, I’m working off an iPad and struggling a bit to gather words and photos correctly. The Elepaio was a blurry photo not worth posting so I’ll see about editing that page.
For a little while, I will blame everything wrong on lingering Covid! 🤢

Steve

 

[foresttwitcher]

Nice report & photos - I hope you get better soon.

 

[Hamhed]

Thanks, almost there. At 72, I am in the “high risk group” but I have seemed to have gotten through without any discernible permanent effects. Maybe all those vaccine shots helped.
Fortunately, it didn’t affect our trip too much.

Steve

 

[3Italianbirders]

Such a good report, very informative with lots of useful tips and I also personally appreciate the veggie point of view as we always have that extra challenge when planning trips. Thanks for sharing, although, tbh I still haven't read it all, but I will get there. So many amazing birds! And get well soon!

 

[Hamhed]

Thanks. I really appreciate non-bird detail in other reports. One never knows what will be important to readers or trip planners. Of course, there are endless trivia that could be added that some may find helpful but planning the next trip overrules spending too much time on the last one!

Steve

 

[ovenbird43]

Sounds like a great trip and I enjoyed reading your report! I was similarly set back when I tried to visit Nu'upia Ponds, no idea how one gains access. In many other areas including my home region, sites with restricted access are usually marked as such in the hotspot name, prompting visitors to reach out to the local birding community for more information.

 

[Hamhed]

Sounds like a great trip and I enjoyed reading your report! I was similarly set back when I tried to visit Nu'upia Ponds, no idea how one gains access. In many other areas including my home region, sites with restricted access are usually marked as such in the hotspot name, prompting visitors to reach out to the local birding community for more information.

I would have liked to explore the access options but we didn’t want to take the time. All our target birds were found elsewhere. If I can find out from Dick May, Audubon trip leader on Oahu, I’ll post that here at later date.

Steve

 

[Hamhed]

Finally remembering do do so, I emailed Dick May about access to Nu’upia Ponds on the Marine Corps Base. Here is his reply:

Steve,
The ponds on the Marine Corps Base are restricted. Not sure why eBird does not so state. You will see regular reports from there, particularly from Nu’upia Pond. First, there are a couple young birders from military families who live on the base. I am retired military, so have access and sometimes take a birder friend with me. One of the regular birders has a government contract that allows access.

Other reports are from birders who view from the access path outside the interior fence. It runs to the base gate and along the pond. It’s a hassle, as it’s hard to find a place to park and views are distant and through a fence, but that’s where some observations come from.

Even with base access, there are large areas that we simply can’t see due to high vegetation and the fact that much of the wetland is off limits.

Cheers,
Dick

 

[minatina]

Day Seventeen 11-11
One morning left in the Hawaiian Islands. We returned to the initial Kahuku Golf Course entry point as eBird had a new report of nesting Wedge-tailed Shearwaters there. Someone had gained access but how? Car loaded with luggage, we drove north determined to find an answer. As we approached the Government sign and parked, a dog walker came down the “restricted” road. I asked him about the “keep out” sign and he seemed surprised, saying he hardly noticed the sign and didn’t really know why it was there. Just go up a couple of hundred yards and you’ll see the trailer that serves as a clubhouse. We drove to a small, gravel parking lot, seeing the trailer and, still a little confused, left the car for a grass cart path at the end of the lot. We were talking to someone about where we were allowed to go and where the Shearwaters might be when our newly met friend and dog caught up with us, offering to lead us to a occupied nest he’d seen earlier. We followed man and dog to a series of holes in the sandy soil along the side of the cart path. The face of a Shearwater in the third hole was almost a surprise as I half expected our “guide” to be joking. We found another nesting bird but left quickly for fear of disturbing them. To be truthful though, the birds did not seem at all agitated by our close presence, likely adapted to the presence of people and carts.

We moved on, saying goodbye and thanks to our helpful friend. Next, our aimless walk took us past a roped off, tall grass area which served as a bird sanctuary and likely a errant golf ball repository as well. Afterwards, a fenced cemetery, Japanese, I think and some scrub habitat separating the course from the sand beach. I’m not sure what led us on; maybe trying to get another look at Curlews, (we saw only one flying). It wasn’t the multiple Doves, Plovers or other assorted grass loving birds. But, something got us to cut through a narrow opening in the thick hedge to the ocean’s edge and the sight that greeted us was amazing. Dozens of Brown Noddies were tacking low over the surf, all headed north, a steady stream that continued strong for nearly twenty minutes. In a sweep from my left to right view, I easily counted forty birds. My estimation for the time we observed this spectacle was a minimum of 250 birds. I must admit, we first misidentified these birds, thinking they must be Shearwaters, but adequate photos and much appreciated help from eBird reviewer Kellen Apuna, corrected our eBird posting. Adding to our identification confusion was that eBird charts show no evidence of Brown Noddies being seen at all at this location in October or November. Kellen posed that the beach at the course receives so little visitation from birders during those months that the Noddies go unnoticed.

As the birds passed, I took many photos, trying to capture the essence of the scene. While I did that, we noticed there were a few larger, white birds with the Noddies, several of which were the last target bird we could have hoped for, Red-footed Boobies. Other Boobies would remain unidentifiable but those three would do just fine.
Very conscious of our upcoming drive down the coast and across the mountains to the airport, we left, perhaps a little too soon; it was not quite 9am.
On our return drive, the Polynesian Culture Center had some large, carved statues we remembered to photograph.
Realizing we didn’t want to get to the airport too early, we made a last birding stop at coastal Kualoa Regional Park, we walked for 45 minutes, taking in last looks at Zebra Doves, Golden Plovers, Mynas, Red-crested Cardinals, Bulbuls, a flock of 40 Ruddy Turnstones, Stilts, Canaries, Finches and a final pair of Chestnut Munias. Besides the birds, we had wide ocean views with famed Chinaman’s Hat poking up through the blue water and kayakers, testing their skills in the rough water. In the other direction, a row of steep, forested mountains, a common sight on this coast. A fine morning to end our birding adventure, we finished the drive, used the back roads to avoid the interstate, successfully filled the gas tank and returned the car. I lost my penknife to security, one I’ve had for many birding trips and used this trip to help repair Liz’s snorkel mask and clean the deep tread of my boots.

Delta took off on time and got us to LA a few minutes early due to a strong tailwind. We requested and got a room on the quiet side of the motel. Back in the North Carolina mountains the next day and in much different temperatures than Hawaii. Credit to Delta for on time flights and no lost luggage.

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122245376

https://ebird.org/checklist/S122245321

November 30
As I finish this report, both Kilauea and Mauna Loa on the Big Island has been erupting for a few days with lava beginning to flow slowly to the northeast. There is no current danger to the town of Hilo or other populated areas but as it has been 38 years since the last eruption, we might have missed a once-in-a-lifetime photo opportunity. Those planning their own upcoming trip may want to take heed!

Kahuku Golf Course entrance sign
Wedge-tailed Shearwater in nest burrow
Brown Noddies
Red-footed Booby
Chinaman’s Hat
A Hawaiian message to birders

Your trip sounds fantastic, and I loved reading about it! After going through your entire experience, I'm genuinely eager to visit Oahu also want to swim with turtles.