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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Fuji Finepix 2800 (1 Viewer)

Andrew

wibble wibble
Evening All!

I have been very impressed by the Fuji Finepix 2800 with it's 6x Optical Zoom capacity and wondered if anyone else on this forum has one or experience of one. There is a thread on the lens so I wondered if anyone knows whether it can be used for digiscoping or not? can you add on a teleconverter lens to increase the magnification.

Andrew
 
I see that this post is a few months old, but I really wish someone with experience in using this camera would help us out! I have the same question.
 
I have since bought the Nikon 4500. I tried out the Fuji on my scope and it was no good as the exit lens was too large for digiscoping and it produced massive vignetting. It was however a decent camera on it's own, I wanted something for digiscoping.
 
I have the FinePix 6800 and I absolutely love it. Of course, it's the first digital camera I've ever owned so I may be a bit partial but it does take wonderful shots.
I don't know a thing about digiscoping though, so sorry, I can't help you there. Mine doesn't look like anything can be added to it but what do I know?! ;)
 
I think there is a thread on the end of the lens section which will take a 1.3 teleconverter which is pointless really. Something is probably in the pipeline. You can put filters on though.
 
Filters and evening photographs

Hi.

I also have a Fuji 2800z.

Firstly, what sort of filters is one able to add on, do they need to have particular fittings to connect to the camera?

Secondly, have you been able to take decent evening shots? The camera is great in daylight or overcast/shady conditions - in fact fantastic, but in low light conditions everything gets a rather strange red/orange hue and it's almost impossible to get rid of it.

Even something as simple as the lights of a city in the background on a clear evening or a brightly floodlit in the evening is giving me problems?

Any success?

Thanks,
J.
 
Spook

Can't help you about night photography, but please let me welcome you to Bird Forum on behalf of Admin and all the Moderators. If you've roamed around the forums, you'll know how much there is here.

Have fun, and we look forward to hearing from you again soon.

Peter
 
Welcome to this mega fantastic forum and I hope you will get stuck in. I reckon someone will answer your post soon. Do you live near a camera shop, I think if you measure your filter thread and tell them what it is they may have a selection in stock?
 
Hi Andrew

I fancied trying digiscoping with my FujiFilm FinePix 2800 Zoom, I asked a similar question in another forum in a web site that I visit, but I contacted fujifilm about using the 2800 for digiscoping and they told me that you could'nt, I was a wee bit peeved. I like the quality of the digital but dislike the quality of the film from our SLR.

What I've been finding with the 2800 is, it is very good in delaying taking the shot, I've plenty of shots that I didn't want, like taking photos of Mallards - I wanted photos of the Mallard on the water, the 2800 decided that Mallards dipping was the better photo, I've also been finding that it doesn't like moving targets like Siskins on a peanut holder in a breeze - the 2800 preferred the tree rather than the Siskin. My family and I went to a wildlife park and I was photographing otters with the digital and my wife had the SLR, she was taking roughly 3 photos to 1 of mine.

I've no qualms about the 2800, I really like it, it's saved me a lot of money because I can take an equilivant of 3 films a day. I think that I maybe at stage where I need a better camera for what I'm wanting. I'm still trying to take photos of birds but I'm settling down to taking landscapes, flowers and still life photos with the 2800

Hope this helps

Duncan
 
The reason the 2800 is not suitable for digiscoping is the lens is too large thus there is nearly a complete vignetting.
 
Duncan,

A large part of the delay you are experiencing is (I am sure) due to the camera trying to focus first. Focus on your subject by placing the square in the centre of the viewfinder on the subject or on something at the same distance, then pressing the shutter halfway which locks focus and exposure. Hold it there. Wait for the perfect moment then press the shutter home fully. There is no detectable delay if you do it this way.

I have been taking photographs of motorbikes going v. past at 120mph from about 30m away, and I found that I could prefocus on the spot on the tarmac where the bike is going to be and then just wait for the bike to arrive at that spot. With very good results.

The one thing that is a problem is that once the shutter is depressed the image is removed from the viewfinder/screen so if the subject is going fast and you need to track it whilst the shutter is open then you have to do it blind.

Good luck!
 
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