TwoDipsfromAmsterdam
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I visited the Haute-Loire department in the south-east of the Auvergne region from 18 - 22 July. I drove down from Paris and stayed at Pont d' Alleyras. The main objective was to bird the Gorge d'Allier (and hopefully find Short-toed Eagle). I also took a day to go over to Cantal.
Friday 18 July
Left Paris at 07:00 and saw a Buzzard almost immediately at Meudon. Good start. Reached Orleans and crossed the Loire by soon after 08:00 to see an immediate improvement in the weather. Stopped in the Solonges area for breakfast, visiting the Etang des Brosses but very few water birds about, although Turtle Dove was in the surrounding woods.
Drove on to the Auvergne, stopping for lunch at Riom where I enjoyed a nice piece of salmon on the terrasse of a local restaurant whilst watching a Kestrel on the local church tower being annoyed by Swifts. Buzzards very common once in the Auvergne and Black and Red Kites seen regularly on the Clermont - Le Puy road although Reds were more numerous south of Brioude. Arrived at Pont d'Alleyras just before 16:00 and once settled in the hotel took a quick look around the immediate area.
Good start with Cirl Bunting and Redstart just behind the hotel followed by Crag Martins, Kingfisher and the inevitable Black Redstart around the bridge over the Allier. The hotel turned out to have a one-star Michelin restaurant. This was clearly going to be up-market birding.
Saturday 19 July
The day got off to an interesting start with a large raptor seen from the hotel balcony soon after 07:00. Obligingly it landed in a tree just across the river and confirmed itself as a Short-toed Eagle. It was soon joined by another and the two flew around the valley for a couple of minutes when a Buzzard joined then to give an excellent comparison, at least as far as size was concerned.
I drove down river (i.e. northwards) to Prades and parked beneath the Rocher de Prades, a very high "chimney" of rock right beside the river. First bird on getting out of the car was Alpine Swift, although, to be fair, that was what I was looking for at this spot. A few Crag Martins were also present. Found that other scarcity (in fact two) - French birders! Had an interesting conversation, especially with the older guy who, being a local, explained that Black Kites were more numerous around Brioude whilst Red was more common in the Gorge area. He had recently seen 50 Black Kites over a newly cut field close to Brioude.
Walked from the rock up to the village of Saint-Julien-des-Chazes, picking up Red-backed Shrike, Serin and Spotted Flycatcher on the way (the latter both in the village cemetery). Melodious Warbler was also found on the way back to Prades. Pine Marten and Red Squirrel also made their appearances during the course of the walk.
A late afternoon walk back at Alleyras produced Stonechat, a family party of Red-backed Shrikes and Crested Tit. Back to the hotel to resume up-market birding when enjoying a cold glaass of Viognier on the terrace in the (hot) evening sunshine. A male Black Redstart appeared and slaughtered a rather large wasp-like insect that had been annoying me. Was the bird owned and trained by the hotel?
Sunday 20 July
The start was delayed by a thunderstorm and heavy rain that began about 08:00 and lasted a couple of hours. Gradually cleared and another walk in the valley produced Honey Buzzard as well as further Crested Tits and Redstarts. In the afternoon I drove south to the reservoir at Naussac. Very few water birds (2 Great Crested Grebes and a single Herring Gull to be exact), but the steepish sides of the lake would appear to make it an unlikely stop-over point for waders. Whitethroat, Grey Partridge and a couple of Ravens were additions here. On the drive back to the hotel a nice pair of Hen Harriers were quartering fields near Cayres.
Monday 21 July
A disappointing day. This was the trip to Cantal (an area I had been in over 20 years ago when it rained every day for two weeks, was cold all the time and even mangaed to snow - all this in June!). Fortunately the weather was fine this time but the birds had obviously given up. I parked at the Prat de Bouc and walked up to the Plomb de Cantal, an area known for Alpine Accentor and Rock Thrush. Alas, it was not to be, despite over four hours of searching. Superb scenery but the reward birdwise was no more than a few Northern Wheatears, Linnet and Black Redstart, although large numbers of Swifts were passing over the top (return migration?).
Back at Alleyras in the evening a Sparrowhawk was hunting in the valley.
Tuesday 22 July
A strong wind had developed making birding difficult although a Honey Buzzard appeared over the hotel before breakfast. I drove back to the spot where I had seen the Harriers on Sunday and found them again. Excellent views of them plus a Black Kite, Whinchat and the Northern Wheatears and Linnets that had obviously followed me back from Cantal!
In the afternoon I retraced my steps at Prades (only a couple of single sightings of Alpine Swift, compared to 10 or so seen on Saturday). A Short-toed Eagle appeared over the rock and gave excellent views. An appropriate end to a good few days.
I had to be back in Paris by mid-afternoon on the Wednesday so no time for stopping on the return journey. However, a flock of 30+ Buzzards near St-Amand (Centre region) was interesting. Were they gathering for Saturday's decisive Time Trial in the Tour de France?
Overall an interesting trip if not spectacular. The main objective - Short-toed Eagle - was found plus a few other birds that are somewhat scarcer in northern France. 69 species in all, which is not too bad given the absence of any numbers of water birds.
Friday 18 July
Left Paris at 07:00 and saw a Buzzard almost immediately at Meudon. Good start. Reached Orleans and crossed the Loire by soon after 08:00 to see an immediate improvement in the weather. Stopped in the Solonges area for breakfast, visiting the Etang des Brosses but very few water birds about, although Turtle Dove was in the surrounding woods.
Drove on to the Auvergne, stopping for lunch at Riom where I enjoyed a nice piece of salmon on the terrasse of a local restaurant whilst watching a Kestrel on the local church tower being annoyed by Swifts. Buzzards very common once in the Auvergne and Black and Red Kites seen regularly on the Clermont - Le Puy road although Reds were more numerous south of Brioude. Arrived at Pont d'Alleyras just before 16:00 and once settled in the hotel took a quick look around the immediate area.
Good start with Cirl Bunting and Redstart just behind the hotel followed by Crag Martins, Kingfisher and the inevitable Black Redstart around the bridge over the Allier. The hotel turned out to have a one-star Michelin restaurant. This was clearly going to be up-market birding.
Saturday 19 July
The day got off to an interesting start with a large raptor seen from the hotel balcony soon after 07:00. Obligingly it landed in a tree just across the river and confirmed itself as a Short-toed Eagle. It was soon joined by another and the two flew around the valley for a couple of minutes when a Buzzard joined then to give an excellent comparison, at least as far as size was concerned.
I drove down river (i.e. northwards) to Prades and parked beneath the Rocher de Prades, a very high "chimney" of rock right beside the river. First bird on getting out of the car was Alpine Swift, although, to be fair, that was what I was looking for at this spot. A few Crag Martins were also present. Found that other scarcity (in fact two) - French birders! Had an interesting conversation, especially with the older guy who, being a local, explained that Black Kites were more numerous around Brioude whilst Red was more common in the Gorge area. He had recently seen 50 Black Kites over a newly cut field close to Brioude.
Walked from the rock up to the village of Saint-Julien-des-Chazes, picking up Red-backed Shrike, Serin and Spotted Flycatcher on the way (the latter both in the village cemetery). Melodious Warbler was also found on the way back to Prades. Pine Marten and Red Squirrel also made their appearances during the course of the walk.
A late afternoon walk back at Alleyras produced Stonechat, a family party of Red-backed Shrikes and Crested Tit. Back to the hotel to resume up-market birding when enjoying a cold glaass of Viognier on the terrace in the (hot) evening sunshine. A male Black Redstart appeared and slaughtered a rather large wasp-like insect that had been annoying me. Was the bird owned and trained by the hotel?
Sunday 20 July
The start was delayed by a thunderstorm and heavy rain that began about 08:00 and lasted a couple of hours. Gradually cleared and another walk in the valley produced Honey Buzzard as well as further Crested Tits and Redstarts. In the afternoon I drove south to the reservoir at Naussac. Very few water birds (2 Great Crested Grebes and a single Herring Gull to be exact), but the steepish sides of the lake would appear to make it an unlikely stop-over point for waders. Whitethroat, Grey Partridge and a couple of Ravens were additions here. On the drive back to the hotel a nice pair of Hen Harriers were quartering fields near Cayres.
Monday 21 July
A disappointing day. This was the trip to Cantal (an area I had been in over 20 years ago when it rained every day for two weeks, was cold all the time and even mangaed to snow - all this in June!). Fortunately the weather was fine this time but the birds had obviously given up. I parked at the Prat de Bouc and walked up to the Plomb de Cantal, an area known for Alpine Accentor and Rock Thrush. Alas, it was not to be, despite over four hours of searching. Superb scenery but the reward birdwise was no more than a few Northern Wheatears, Linnet and Black Redstart, although large numbers of Swifts were passing over the top (return migration?).
Back at Alleyras in the evening a Sparrowhawk was hunting in the valley.
Tuesday 22 July
A strong wind had developed making birding difficult although a Honey Buzzard appeared over the hotel before breakfast. I drove back to the spot where I had seen the Harriers on Sunday and found them again. Excellent views of them plus a Black Kite, Whinchat and the Northern Wheatears and Linnets that had obviously followed me back from Cantal!
In the afternoon I retraced my steps at Prades (only a couple of single sightings of Alpine Swift, compared to 10 or so seen on Saturday). A Short-toed Eagle appeared over the rock and gave excellent views. An appropriate end to a good few days.
I had to be back in Paris by mid-afternoon on the Wednesday so no time for stopping on the return journey. However, a flock of 30+ Buzzards near St-Amand (Centre region) was interesting. Were they gathering for Saturday's decisive Time Trial in the Tour de France?
Overall an interesting trip if not spectacular. The main objective - Short-toed Eagle - was found plus a few other birds that are somewhat scarcer in northern France. 69 species in all, which is not too bad given the absence of any numbers of water birds.
