Alaska July 2012 – a family holiday(!) (1 Viewer)

[edenwatcher]

Alaska is not an obvious holiday destination for a family with young children. However with friends in Anchorage, who are likely to leave within a year, it was now or never. We had originally thought of going last year but Daniel’s godfather works for BP and it seemed as if BP might be run out of the US in the wake of the Gulf of Mexico oil spill. We began with grandiose plans involving Nome, Sue visiting the Pribilofs (too expensive for all of us, and it was her turn!) etc. but common sense prevailed in the end.
We could not leave until Andrew’s school year finished at the end of June and it seemed prudent to wait until after 4th July. We spent the night of 4th in Frankfurt, before using the only direct flight to Alaska from Europe (Condor). This may not be cheapest route but it removed the hassle of changing planes in the lower 48 (a consideration with small children). Also we paid extra for Premium Economy which was very definitely worth it – good food, lots of leg room etc. for relatively little additional cost. Our friends lent us a car for two weeks (a Subaru Outback) and we made two excursions from Anchorage – up to Denali National Park (4 nights) and down the Kenai peninsula to Seward and Homer (5 nights). Our one major indulgence was a bearwatching day trip from Anchorage to Brooks Falls.

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

We arrived in Anchorage mid-morning on 5th (essentially the same time as we left Frankfurt) after some wonderful views coming over the northern tip of Greenland. We spent the day around our friends’ house, which was close to the floatplane base on Lake Hood. A few local birds included our first bald eagle. Anchorage weather was rather cool and overcast – no change from home! In general we were very lucky with the weather - having pretty good weather on our excursions with the dodgy stuff saved for when we were in Anchorage!
The next morning was bright and sunny and after we had acquired provisions for our trip to Denali we were dropped off at Westchester Lagoons – one of Anchorage’s top birding sites (by which time it had clouded over). The lagoons provided a gentle introduction to Alaskan birding, with a handy new play-park to entertain the young. Highlights included breeding red-necked grebes, a variety of wildfowl including American wigeon and ring-necked duck, Bonaparte’s gull, and Sue saw a solitary sandpiper. We then walked along the coastal trail back into downtown Anchorage. The tide was out and we had left the scope behind, but we did see greater yellowlegs and semipalmated plover. We then got a taxi back to the house (Macedonian taxi driver!).

A few pics: Canada goose (dusky), Bonaparte's gull, red-necked grebe, mew gull

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

Saturday 6th July marked the start of our 2 week period of car insurance. Late morning we set off north for Denali National Park, a very straightforward drive once I had navigated Sue through Anchorage. Weather was rather changeable, with a few showers, especially round Cantwell. Having had a late start (our friends are not early risers at the weekend!) we didn’t have any birding stops en route. Scanning the spruce tops failed to produce any hawk owls – and would continue to do so throughout the trip! Grey jay flying across the road was the highlight.
For our first two nights we were camping at Savage River camp site at Mile 15 along the road into the park. After checking in at the park entrance, including collecting the tickets we had booked for the park bus next day, we drove slowly to the camp site, seeing our first moose (2 in my case) on the way. We had been lent a large family tent by Ros and Hugh but had not had any opportunity to practice erecting it. This turned out to be regrettable as a huge thunderstorm hit before we had finished! Sue was better dressed to stay in the mostly erected tent, whilst I kept the boys happy in the car. Fortunately it didn’t last too long and we were able to get things set up and cook dinner.
I didn’t have a great night – not enough air in the thermarest (other inflatable mattresses are available) and a few twigs/stones underneath the ground sheet! It was a fine morning, though the snow line had moved downwards during the night. There were no views of Mt McKinley, and whilst the weather remained dry all day there was poor weather in the direction of North America’s highest peak throughout. The scenery was still stunning. Almost no private vehicles are allowed beyond the Savage River crossing, meaning that the regular park buses (old green school buses) are the main way of getting through the park. We were booked on the 8:30 bus to the Eielson visitor centre (mile 66). With a ticket you are free to get on and off any of the green buses, provided there is room (not always the case in high season). Stops are made for interesting wildlife, with a few scheduled stops as well. We needed to carry a booster seat for Daniel (four and a half).
We saw a male northern harrier before reaching the Savage River crossing and two waxwings just as we reached the Teklanika rest area. First interesting mammals were some Dall’s sheep beyond Teklanika and caribou at the Sable Pass, where we also had a fine adult long-tailed skua. At Polychrome Pass, Sue went off photographing wild flowers (very nice they were too), whilst I found a gyrfalcon on the other side of the road! Sadly for Sue it had gone by the time I got hold of her …

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

Beyond Toklat river rest stop Sue found both golden eagle and our first two grizzlies (both adults). At Eielson visitor centre we ate our sandwiches and admired the local Arctic ground squirrels and white-crowned sparrows. We contemplated going for a walk here, but it would be a long day for the boys anyway (8h on the bus). On the way back a golden eagle flew parallel to the bus for some distance – superb. We had distant views of a mother grizzly with a small cub and several caribou. There is no scheduled stop at Polychrome on the way back but we obviously needed to stop! Sure enough as soon as we disembarked a gyrfalcon was in view perched on the same outcrop as in the morning. It then treated us to a close fly-by so we were all happy.
We were able to get on to the next bus, although not sitting together. The remainder of the return journey was fairly quiet, though we did have more Dall’s sheep. A fine evening at the campground gave nice views of yellow-rumped warbler, Swainson’s thrush and some very friendly grey jays. Someone hasn’t been obeying the “no feeding the wildlife” signs!

Pics: Arctic ground squirrel, white-crowned sparrow, gyr x3

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

Dall's sheep and grey jay.

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

After a better night’s sleep I woke to a glorious sunny day. A trip to the toilet block revealed that McKinley was almost clear, and regular monitoring as we prepared breakfast and packed up meant that we got to see the summit blow clear – only around 10% of visitors see the mountain so we were pretty lucky. After loading the car we headed off to the Savage River crossing and went for a wlak along the river. Lots of Arctic ground squirrels around and bird wise we saw Wilson’s and orange-crowned warblers and a hermit thrush. We then drove to the park headquarters and after eating lunch went for a wander around some of the trails. Bird highlights included grey-cheeked thrush and myrtle warbler though it wasn’t the ideal time of day.
Leaving the park we headed north through “glitter gulch” and just before Healy turned off to Otto Lake. Plenty of ducks here included canvasback and Barrow’s goldeneye. On the lake shore were several savannah sparrows and a yellow warbler (plus a convenient play park). Our next two nights were to be spent at Earthsong Lodge (http://www.earthsonglodge.com/) 4 miles up the Stampede road to the NW of Healy. This was a very comfortable place to stay and the food in the associated Henry’s Café was excellent with serving of evening meals starting at a child-friendly 6pm.

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

More pics:
myrtle warbler, American red squirrel and savannah sparrow.

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

Next morning we began the day by heading back to Otto Lake, where it was a case of more of the same. We did have nice views of slavonian (horned) grebe though. After calling in at a deli to get some sandwiches we drove out past Earthsong Lodge along the Stampede Road. The metalled surface finishes just beyond the lodge. Given the nature of the car insurance we were limited in our activities off tarmac (no Denali Highway for us!). However proceeding carefully, we drove as far as Eight Mile Lake. We had superb views of a cow and calf moose until another vehicle came past and caused them to melt into the scrub. It was a cold grey day with occasional drizzle – not ideal for looking for passerines like Arctic warbler. We went for a walk further along the road with American tree sparrow being the highlight. As we drove back we stopped at several points for a scan of the bushes and tundra, without finding anything of note.
By the time we got back to the lodge it was about lunchtime, so we elected to eat indoors in the warmth of our cabin. After lunch we headed back to the national park to walk the trail to Horseshoe Lake (near the park entrance) in drier and warmer conditions. Birding was slow but the mammals more than made up for this. From a viewpoint high above the lake I picked up a fishing river otter. As we got down to lake level it was still showing well, albeit a bit distantly. Then, remarkably, a beaver swam out towards the otter and basically shadowed it until it moved further away. We walked on to the end of the trail at the beaver dam and when we turned back we discovered that the beaver was right beside the beach we had been standing on previously. It gave great views before swimming off and giving an almighty tail slap. Meanwhile the otter was still in view. A visit to the Park Headquarters for the boys to collect their Junior Ranger badges and a huge ice cream (it was enough for all 4 of us to share!) before heading back to the Lodge. Sue and I saw a coyote beside the Stampede Road (the boys had fallen asleep)

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

Next morning was bright and breezy and after breakfast we drove out along the Stampede Road, seeing a willow grouse at the edge of the track. We stopped back at Earthsong lodge so that the boys could see the sled dogs before paying a final visit to Otto Lake. A mile or so below the lodge a female spruce grouse with a brood of chicks crossed the road in front of us.

We were now on our way back to Anchorage and made several stops along the way. Our first trumpeter swans were seen on a lake south of Cantwell. The views back towards McKinley were spectacular, though it wasn’t a day when the mountain was clear. We had lunch at Byers Lake where alder flycatcher was the most notable species. At mile 123.4 a roadside lake held a nice Pacific diver (or loon if you really must). We took a diversion on to the Petersville road, which had some promising habitat, but another Pacific diver and an unidentified yellowlegs were all it had to offer. On Kashwitna Lake were two splendid great northern divers. By now the warm sunny conditions had vanished (we were on the way back to Anchorage after all). A fly-by merlin near Nancy Lakes was nice, then it was through Wasilla (home of Sarah Palin) and on to Anchorage.

Spruce grouse pic

Rob

 

[ClarkWGriswold]

Really enjoying reading your report Rob. Sounds like a great trip.

Rich

 

[Mike Richardson]

Great stuff Rob. Looking forward to the rest of the report.

 

[edenwatcher]

Cheers guys.

July 12th was a grey, cool and intermittently drizzly day. We visited Potter Marsh, one of Anchorage’s prime birding sites out along the Seward Highway. After a clockwise circuit of the marsh stopping in various pull-outs we parked at the north end and walked along the board walks. Highlights included a pair of bald eagles, lots of lesser yellowlegs, including a ridiculously confiding individual, short-billed dowitcher, Wilson’s snipe, boreal chickadee and Lincoln’s sparrow. A family of Canada geese successfully ran the gauntlet of the traffic on the Seward Highway.
In the afternoon, so as not to alienate the young, we visited the Alaska zoo which features predominantly native wildlife (together with 2 Siberian tigers and a magnificent pair of snow leopards). Many of the birds and animals were rescued individuals, with a variety of disabilities. An early night followed, prior to our trip to Brooks Falls – what would Friday 13th bring?

Pics of lesser yellowlegs and Lincoln's sparrow

Rob

 

[Farnboro John]

The Scots are documenting interactions between European Beavers and European Otters - basically the two species appear antipathetic: especially when Beaver young are about, adult Beavers will be really aggressive towards Otters, so perhaps your observation is normal business.

John

 

[edenwatcher]

It wouldn't surprise me John. Next day might be up your street...

As I indicated at the start of this thread the trip to Brooks Falls in Katmai National Park was the biggest extravagance of the holiday. Bears don’t really capture my imagination in the same way as say big cats, but the chance of the iconic sight of them catching salmon at Brooks Falls (as seen in numerous wildlife documentaries) was not to be missed. Our trip was operated by Rust’s flying service (www.flyrusts.com). We had to be at the Rust’s office at Lake Hood for 7am to check in. Several Rust’s planes were heading to Brooks Falls – not surprising since mid-July is peak season there, corresponding to the sockeye salmon run. Ours was a 6 seater – the 4 of us, the pilot and a very pleasant Italian guy making the second trip to Brooks Falls of his holiday. There was plenty of low cloud around but it was calm and the weather seemed to be improving.
We set off south across the Turnagain Arm to the Kenai Peninsula before Bruce decided there was too much low cloud ahead so we crossed Cook Inlet. We flew between the mountains, getting some great views and then along Lake Clark and over Alaska’s largest lake – Iliamna – before landing on Naknek Lake in quite warm, sunny conditions. The flight took a shade under two and a half hours and by the end I was really regretting my second mug of coffee! The boys coped much better. Brooks Falls was teaming with people (a huge line of floatplanes) and mosquitos. The latter were bad around the cabins (worst we encountered on the holiday) but OK elsewhere. Rust’s supply a packed lunch, which we would have to eat in a secure area near the headquarters building. Given the need to get up to the Falls (see later), we gave the boys half their lunch before the introductory talk and video on bear etiquette/safety, since we would not be back until approaching 3 o’clock.
After the talk we set off to walk up to the Falls, as briskly as short legs would permit. There are two viewing areas available – one at the lower falls with no restriction on numbers, whilst the upper falls platform can only accommodate 40 people at a time. One is allowed an hour at a time on the upper platform for which you sign up on arrival at the secure boardwalk area. On the way to the boardwalk there are a couple of “high risk” areas watched by rangers, including a bridge over the river. Bears can be anywhere so the boys wore bear bells (I know this is a constituent of grizzly scat, but at least they know you are there!). We didn’t see our first bear until we had reached the boardwalk – which was a bit of a relief. The BBC had a number of cameras set up – ace camerawoman Justine Evans passed us as we walked up to the falls. Having signed up, we went to the lower falls to see what we could see...

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

Bears. The upper falls are visible at moderate distance from the lower platform – this is where the more dominant bears fish, whilst the subordinate animals, including mothers with cubs, use the lower falls. Being fairly well down the list we had quite a while at the lower platform, seeing a number of bears at the upper falls (though there were periods with none) and some closer animals, including a particularly incompetent beast at the lower falls which gave great views. Birds were few – gulls and black-billed magpies (surprisingly no bald eagles). The large white-headed gulls all looked like glaucous-winged, but a number had pale irises indicating smithsonianus genes.

Pics of bears at the upper falls from the lower falls and a pure-looking glaucous-winged

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

A couple of the incompetent bear and a couple of salmon shots.

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

It was after 1 o’clock when we were called to the upper viewing platform, which was good timing as there were more bears visiting during that hour (up to 4 simultaneously) than at any point when we were there. The number of leaping salmon was truly spectacular. One old male bear spent the whole hour we were there standing in the falls. He may have been old but his technique was decidedly sketchy – he only caught about 4 salmon in that time. Other animals were much more efficient.

Pics of old bear, showing that he did score occasionally!

Rob

 

[Jos Stratford]

Nice stuff, I had originally planned to be in Alaska the same time as you, even booking tickets for the Marine Alaska Highway from the lower 48 to south of Anchorage, but with a major trip also planned for autumn this year, I cancelled and took a summer trip to South Africa instead, cost being the major reason ...in Alaska, everything from car hire to required flights to all the outlying destinations was simply astronomical!

Still, I will now read with envy , as Denali, etc, were obviously amongst my intended destinations.

 

[edenwatcher]

Free use of a car and accommodation in Anchorage made a big difference!

A few other bears including a small female who knew where she needed to be but didn't have the weight to get there.

Rob

 

[edenwatcher]

When our time was up we set off back to the lodge and a long overdue lunch. I went ahead with Andrew, who tends to fall apart when blood sugar gets too low. We saw two bears, but at a safe distance, whilst Sue and Daniel had a more interesting time as two bears were converging on the bridge as they reached it. They were able to get across in time however, and after lunch we set off back to Anchorage. This time we flew back over McNeil River – the site with the greatest density of bears anywhere. The salmon run had only just started there but as we flew over at least 20 bears were in view. It isn’t really a site for the casual tourist however, as you have to apply by lottery. Flying along Cook Inlet we had good views of Mt Augustine and I picked out a raft of sea otters from the air! Inevitably we flew into rainy conditions as we neared Anchorage! It had been a long but unforgettable day.

Rob