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The Coorong (2 Viewers)

Tannin

Common; sedentary.
Background

The Coorong, for those that don't know it by reputation already, is an enormous stretch of hyper-saline water near the mouth of the Murray River in South Australia. The Murray flows into two very large freshwater lakes (Lake Alexandrina and Lake Albert) which, in turn, exit into the sea about 100 kilometres south-east of Adelaide.

The river mouth is frequently blocked by sand, particularly since the Snowy Mountains Scheme and associated works succeeded in diverting the great bulk of the Murray's flow into storage for agriculture. The eons-long cycle of still summer waters blocked behind the sandbars and then a mighty rush of winter rains and spring-melted snows no longer operates, and there is great concern for the health of the lower Murray, the great lakes, and the Coorong. There is some hope that a little more environmental flow will be negotiated between the various iinterest groups over the next five years or so, and that this will be in time to save the Coorong.

The Coorong proper

The coastline runs south-east from the mouth of the Murray, in a long, gentle arc for about 200 kilometres to the town of Kingston SE. (The "SE" stands for something, no doubt, but I have no idea what.) For the first 150-odd kilometres of that distance, a massive sand dune meets the breakers of the cold Southern Ocean. It is only a kilometer or two wide, perhaps 50 to 100 metres tall, but almost 150 kilometres long, and on the inside of the dune - between the dune and the low-lying limestone of the coast proper - is the Coorong.

The Coorong is a very long, narrow stretch of hyper-saline water, supplied by the Murray and evaporated by the sun. It varies in salinity a great deal with the changing seasons (or at least it used to, before the Murray was damned) and becomes more saline further away from the river.

It is shallow, no more than about three metres deep, and there are associated salt lakes sprinkled here and there along its length.

Illustration: looking south across the Coorong toward Younghusband Peninsula. In the foreground, Pied Oystercatchers. On the other side of the peninsula is the Southern Ocean.
 

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The Coorong is almost legendary as a birding area. It is wise to note, however, that it isn't a single spot where vast numbers of seabirds and waders crowd together, but rather a vast stretch of shallow, non-tidal water and shoreline with small numbers of birds dotted here and there all the way along.

There are several places nearby that have particular attractions (including forest reserves a little inland, as well as the obvious water bird meccas like the islands where the Australian Pelicans nest in their thousands) but for my money, the best way to enjoy the Coorong is to simply make your way slowly up or down the coast road, stopping whenever you see a place that takes your fancy. You will find species of interest almost anywhere. Just follow your nose and enjoy.

Very nearly all of the Coorong and its foreshore is national park. The entire Younghusband Peninsula is a national park, and can only be accessed by 4WD or boat. Be sure to check on the regulations for where you can and can't take a vehicle or boat at particular times of year. They are clearly signposted and the South Australian National Parks Service makes maps and guides readily available.

Travel and accomodation

The Coorong is within comfortable weekend trip distance from Adelaide. At a pinch, you could do it in a day trip, but it would be a very long day. From Melbourne, allow the best part of a full day for travelling: it is 800 or 900 kilometres.

Camping is allowed in a good range of places in the park. A permit is required but the fee is nominal. Outside of the obvious peak times, I doubt that you would miss out on a place.

There is plenty of more luxurious accomodation at the great lakes (Adelaide) end, but only a few places to choose from on the Coorong proper. I stayed at a combination sheep farm and holiday cabin place a couple of kilometres past Salt Creek (or maybe 5 kilometres towards Melbourne from Policeman's Point) and recommend it unhesitatingly. The cabins are old and not fancy, but for about AU $40 a night (call it US$20) I had a nice big cabin to myself with room for a family of 6 or so, stove, kettle, fridge, TV (for the real addicts) pots and pans and plates and things, bathroom facilities, the lot. Bring your own linen or pay $5 extra and the farming family who run the place will provide it. Waking up to the sound of the magpies caroling in the gnarled gum trees just outside the cabin, and then seeing and hearing the magnificent Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos in the big pine trees 50 metres away was a great way to start the day. Recommended.

Meals are available at the Salt Creek general store (sitting down to bacon and eggs on toast for brunch after getting up before dawn to go birding is a treat.)

Up the road 10 kilometres at Policeman's Point there is a hotel/motel and a caravan park. Don't miss ordering a Coorong Mullet for your tea there - it's the same species as the ordinary mullet you can catch almost anywhere, but the hyper-saline water of the Coorong gives it a special creamy flavour that is quite unique.
 
Birding

Perhaps someone with more than a couple of days experience of the Coorong can make more specific recommendations, but for mine, the best advice is to simply follow your nose. If you can't find birds on the Coorong, then it's time you took up stamp collecting or something.

Waders are the great attraction, I believe, but my trip was in mid-winter and none of the migrants had arrived. No matter - there were still plenty of waders: among them the inevitable but nevertheless stunningly beautiful Red-necked Avocets, the endangered Hooded Plover (which nests on the open beach on the sea side of Younghusband Peninsula - which is one of the reasons you can't drive on the beach all year round), Australian Pelicans of course, Caspian Terns, and ducks galore. The fairly common but very beautiful Pink-eared Duck was my favourite.

As for land birds, the variety is excellent, particulary honeyeaters and chats. I don't think I have ever seen so many small raptors. The two small Australian hovering raptors were everywhere: Black-shouldered Kites on the landward side of the coast road, Nankeen Kestrels on the seaward side. (Why the strict demarcation? I don't know.)

Where the national park finishes, there is a peninsula sticking out into the Coorong that was until recently a farm but has now been given into the care of the local Aboriginal community, who have built a swish-looking restaurant and cabin complex - a tourist trap, in essence. The land is quite degraded and I have my doubts about the environmental sensitivity of the project in some ways, but it is recovering, bit by bit, and is certainly worth a visit.

On first sight, I was unimpressed - the very first creature I saw was a Red Fox in broad daylight (rabbits aside, foxes are probably the single most destructive vermin species in Australia). But on closer inspection, the virtues of this place become apparent. As ever there are waders and waterbirds to enjoy, the view is magnificent, the people relaxed and friendly. Later on, as I walked over the former pastures from one wader-spot to another, a Stubble Quail exploded into flight with a great rush of wing-clapping at my feet.

There are Western Grey Kangaroos there, and Emus aplenty. The tribal elder told me that on most days the Emus can be seen swimming the Coorong out to the Younghusband Peninsula or back to the mainland, and that on hot days they make their way down to the water's edge to bathe and frolic in the Coorong.

The migratory waders arrive in spring and depart in autumn, but there are more than enough birds to satisfy anyone even in mid-winter. I'm told that in high summer it gets very hot and the saline water smells dreadful. I gues it does, but it wouldn't stop me going back to see the summer waders. The Coorong is one of the great wader destinations.

Alas, while it is a wonderful place still, (to my untutored eye) the scientific evidence leaves no doubt that it is dying. It simply cannot survive much longer without the influx of fresh water that the Murray floods bring, and we won't have floodwaters in the Murray until we stop growing rice and cotton in the centre of the driest habitable continent on earth. As the water grows saltier and saltier, the tiny creatures that the birds and fish eat, salt-adapted though they are, can no longer thrive. Last year the pelicans did not nest. The South Australians are pushing hard for more water for the river instead of for cotton growing a thousand miles upstream in northern NSW and Queensland. (Cotton uses 10% of Australia's water and produces 0.01% of our gross domestic product.) They seem to be gathering broad support in the wider community, but there is a long, long way to go.

Wish us luck, and see the magnificent Coorong while you can.
 
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Tannin this sounds a wonderful place to spend part of a birding holiday, thank you for the detailed and interesting information. I only wish I could get over there and see it. I can see that the whole area is at risk as a result of the damming of the Murray. Presumably over time, unless negotiations are successful, this area will become more and more saline? Is there any sign that this is already having an effect on the species that live there?
 
Tannin, that is a terrific account of the Coorong. Would you consider presenting it for publication in the Bird Forum Magazine when it becomes a reality?
I aggree wholeheartedly about hte ridiculous use of our precious water for growing cotton and grapes on places like Coopers Creek. It is a good recipe for disaster that can only gain a quick profit for a few years for the greedy land grabbers, soon resuting in the distruction of a delicate environment.
What can we do?
 
Thanks Nancy, Sal and Grousemore. Nancy, it ain't a patch on your trip reports, but no matter. I've not heard of the Bird Forum Magazine, but by all means - it would want a bit of copy-editing first though.

Factors in the current decline of the Coorong

In a word, yes, there are measurable and significant effects. I have not read up on them in any detail, but if my memory is to be trusted, the key indicator is a small crustacean that is found in countless millions and forms the bulk of the diet of the birds (and probably forms the base of the fish food chain too). The idea, I gather, is that you take a certain area (a square metre, say) and count all the individuals in it. Repeat until you can see a pattern. Because of the increasing sainity, the count for the last couple of years has gone way, way down.

Now that happens in dry years anyway, at least to some extent, but we humans have changed things such that the amount of water down the Murray in a wet year is equivalent to a normal dry year, and in a dry year, it is almost nothing.

There seem to be three main factors:

(1) We got away with taking water out of the Murray it for a long time, but the last ten years or so have been consistently bad ones. In particular, we are not getting our normal winter rains. We are doing OK in summer, with rainfall around about average in most years in most places, but roughly 70% of our yearly rainfall is normally in winter and, as a broad average, we are only getting a little over half of that. This means that the inland dams have not been completely full since before I had grey hair, and the water management authorities have released as little downstream as possible. This impacts in several ways: sheer quantity of flow is down; the riverine vegetation is dying (because it depends on periodic floods) and that has an effect on run-off water quality; there is less water to dilute the salt and agricultural byproducts; and finally, the average water temperature is higher, which impacts on stream life. (I imagine that this last has no direct effect on the Coorong, as the Murray-Darling is thousands of kilometres long and flows very slowly, and the water must traverse the two large lakes before it meets the Coorong.)

This changed rainfall pattern could be mere chance, but it fits exactly with the gloomy long-term climate-change predictions made by the Australian Bureau of Meterology. In other words, it is global warming and we had better get used to it.

(2) The Murray is not the only source of water for the Coorong. The entire hinterland was a series of brackish swamps prior to white settlement, with few defined watercourses. Now, the swamps have been drained and the run-off diverted elsewhere. (I don't know where it goes. I do know that Salt Creek, which would probably be the largest single source, no longer flows.)

(3) By far the most significant factor, however, is the flow of water down the Murray. There are two concerns here: quantity (there isn't much anymore), and quality: because of extensive use for agriculture, the lower Murray has a very high salinity level, and is polluted with agricultural run-off. The city of Adelaide is notorious for having poor drinking water: now you know why - it comes out of the Murray. They process it extensively, but even so, it is barely fit for human consumption. (Adelaide water tastes horrible. In fact, the only thing that tastes worse than Adelaide tap water - at least in the opinion of most Victorians - is South Australian beer. This is only half a joke - water quality is cruical to making good beer, or so I understand.)

Illustration: looking across the Murray River near Berri, South Australia. River Red Gums (Eucalyptus camaldulensis) depend on periodic inundation to regenerate. Deprived of their spring snow-melt floods, or faced with soil high salinity levels, they die. Note the dead trees on the island in the middle distance.
 

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What can we do, Nancy? Well, I have faith of the basic good sense of Australians. If people actually knew a few key facts, I think we would have an overnight change of policy and nothing to worry about. Engrave these numbers on your soul:
  • Australia is the driest habitable continent on earth.
  • The continent of Australia is six times dryer than average.
  • If we exclude the very short tropical rivers of the top end and the gulf country, Australia is twelve times drier than average.
  • Rice uses 7% of our potable water.
  • Rice contributes 0.02% of our gross domestic product.
  • Cotton uses 10% of our potable water.
  • It takes more Austraian water to grow cotton than it takes to wash every car, water every lawn, and flush every toilet in every single city and town in the entire country. Yes, cotton uses more water than is provided for domestic supply in Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, and every other town in the country.
  • Cotton produces 0.1% of our gross domestic product - i.e., it provides only one one-thousandth of our income, but uses one tenth of our water.
(Source: The Age.)
 
Very clearly explained. I find those figures astonishing for a country so short of water. What stops your Min of Ag taking steps to change the situation?
 
In a word, politics, Sal. The water is provided to the cotton growers at an incredibly low price. Despite the huge tonnage of water required to produce a ton of cotton, and the great scarcity of water in Australia, irrigation water typically accounts for between 1% and 2% of total on-farm costs - in other words, for all intents and purposes, we give it away. Many of the large cotton producing companies are not even local: they are US-owned.

The great difficulty is that, in an orgy of development-fever, state governments bent over backwards to provide water rights to would-be irrigators as if there was no limit to the amount of water available (Queensland and NSW in particular) and wound up by selling more water than actually exists. Only in flood years is it possible to fulfill all the existing water rights, and flood years are getting few and far between.

Everybody knows that we need to cut back. Trouble is, everybody knows that it's those greedy mongrels in the other state that have to do the cutting. Our farmers are different, of course. (This is pretty much what all four Murray-Darling Basin states believe. Of late they have taken to saying nice, co-operative things in public forums, but you have to wonder how sincere it all is.

The current problem is that we are stuck with a good many irrigators who have bought farms in all good faith and with a reasonable expectation that "their" water would go on being provided for virtually nothing pretty much forever. Now they discover that their huge investments are looking down the barrel, and many are faced with bankruptcy.

It's going to take a long time and a lot of hard negotiation to sort out. In the end, I think it is a more or less inevitable result of the blinkered attitude we Europeans had when we first arrived in the wide brown land. Somewhere deep down, we thought that Australia was much the same as England or the USA, that we humans could spread out across the continent , bringing our sheep and our cattle, our wheat and our traditional farming practices, and if we cut down enough trees and dammed enough rivers, and ploughed the dirt long enough and hard enough, it would eventually turn into Kent or Indiana.

South Australians learned the lesson early: late in the 19th Century they were carving out pastoral leases in the desert north of Adelaide. There was a series of good, wet years around that time. Then the drought of the 1890s hit: their fresh-plowed land turned into dust and blew away, and to this day you can still find ghost towns in outback South Australia where people tried to farm land that just won't support crops or livestock.

In the wetter eastern states, the dream remained alive much longer. Mildura pioneered irrigation as soon as the steam-driven pump became viable, and met with great success. More and more water was pumped out of the Murray, and then the Darling. By mid-century, there was not much left.

This is when the visionary Snowy Mounains Scheme was adopted. By sheer brute force, we would dam all the wild rivers flowing outwards to the sea, and send their "wasted" water through giant tunnels to the headwaters of the Murray. The task was enormous, but the dream drew people on, and the scheme was eventually completed - at a cost that was vast in monetary terms, significant in human terms (over 100 men died building the Snowy Mountains Scheme), and catastrophic in environmental terms. The Snowy River in eastern Victoria, for example, was reduced from its former grandeur to a pitiful trickle: one percent of its natural flow remained. (Victoria is now committed to restoring 17% flow to the Snowy over the next ten years or so, and although we are only up to 2% flow so far, it is already showing results: the Snowy River wildlife is taking the first steps towards recovery.)

The Snowy Scheme, we all thought, would, by the sweat of our brows and the interest on our foreign loans, turn inland Australia into what it always should have been in the first place: a northern-hemisphere Garden of Eden, full of green and growing things.

It didn't work.

Inland Australia stil grows a great deal of produce, but the rivers are dying (the Darling in particular is in terrible shape - right now it is not flowing at all and this is the one time of year when the rivers are usually in flood), and the rising water tables produced by wholesale tree-felling and over-irrigation have poisoned vast areas of once fertile land.

Slowly, ever so slowly, Australians are starting to realise that imported British or American land management practices simply don't work here. This is because:
  • We have only about 8% of the water that UK or the USA has.
  • We don't have real seasons as you have them in the northern hemisphere. The key issue with the Australian climate is not the amount of rain we get, nor even the long, dry summers, it's that you can't ever rely on the rains. Some years they come, some years they don't. It is not at all unusual to go for 7 years at a time without good rain. It's not unusual to have massive floods. It's not the climate, it's the variability of the climate.
  • We have older soils thn Europe or North America - much older. Australian soils have been exposed to deep weathering for hundreds of millions of years, and (in most areas) the nutrients have long since been washed out of the rocks. (In Europe, by contrast, you have young land, and it has recently been cleansed and renewed by glaciation during the ice ages. Your soils are rich - so rich that you can abuse them for hundreds of years and do little harm. Our soils are more like those of the Middle East: fragile. Treat them wrong, and they never recover.
For an example, consider the fabled cedars of Lebanon. Have you seen any great forests in Lebanon lately? All cut down and the soil blown away. Now it's a desert. Or consider the Fertile Crescent (parts of Israel, Afganistan and Iraq), where humanity first grew grain and tamed domestic animals 10,000 years ago. The Fertile Crescent no longer exists: it's a desert: killed by deforestation, over-grazing, and irrigation salinity. The area we modern people call "the fertile crescent" is the Tiogris-Euphrates delta. And it is fertile. It ought to be: 10,000 years ago it was ocean: it consists entirely of the topsoil of the original Fertile Crescent, washed down the twin rivers into the sea. It's all that's left.

Err .... I seem to be off-topic.

The point is, here in Australia we have an extraordinary diversity of plants and animals that have, over millions of years, adapted to the unique challenges this continent offers. Many Australian plants (including quite a few that are related to your South African ones, Sal, as I'm sure you know) have adapted so well to low-nutrient conditions that they die if you fertilise them.

What produces the greatest diversity? Lush, fertile country with plenty of nutrient and water? No! Harsh conditions produce diversity. Fertile soil simply favours whichever species can out-grow and out-compete all others: the weed species, if you like. Barren soil , if you leave it long enough - 30 million years or so - produces an astonishing and subtle diversity of flora, each species finding a particular niche: perhaps a slightly more acid spot, or a sandy rise, or an association with another, unrelated species. Fauna too: this barren continent hosts no fewer than 900 different bird species, each with its niche.

Everywhere in this country you see examples of the way that native creatures have adapted. Think of the marsupials, for example. Does Australia have kangaroos because the more advanced placental mammals never got here to out-compete them? No: the fossil record shows that Australia had both placentals and marsupials in the Cretacious, but the marsupials survived while the placentals died out.

Placentals do well in good conditions because their huge young are born so well-developed: they have a head-start, if you like. But when you cannot ever be sure if the winter will bring rain or not, and you cannot rely on plentiful spring growth to feed on while you come to term, pregnancy is a huge risk. One bad season and you can lose both mother and child.

This is why marsupials do so well here. A baby kangaroo is the size of a peanut. If the year is good, it will grow and thrive. If the year is bad, no matter: the mother can grow another peanut next year.

They go further than this though: they start a pregnancy and then put it on hold: the fetus remains in the mother without developing until conditions are right. Rains are unpredictable, and occurr in patches. It is necessary to travel huge distances to find good feed. This is why kangaroos have huge elastic tendons in their legs: that graceful hop isn't for ultimate speed (though they can travel fast at need), it is for economy: every landing winds up the "spring", so the next hop requires hardly any energy at all. Kangaroos can travel further on less energy than any animal of similar size. That's no accident.

Enough: I could go on giving examles all night and this post is far too long already.

Slowly, ever so slowly, we are learning the lesson our Aboriginal people learned 50,000 years ago (after they had produced their own ecological disaster here): that fragile land needs gentle treatment, that working with the land produces long-term results, and trying to beat it into submission in the vain hope that it will turn into something that it never was and never can be produces only heartbreak.
 
I'm hooked on the Coorong! Yet if I mention it to anyone who is not a birder, I get the reply "I pass it on the way to Melbourne: it's so boring". It does not look much from a distance, and you have to get into it. Tannin obviously did, but then Tannin is a birder.

One special bird of the Coorong is the Rufous Bristlebird (Dasyornis broadbenti). For a thumbprint see my avatar.

This is confined to South Australia and Victoria. What's more, it only occurs along the coast, in the dwindling patches of suitable vegetation. The Coorong is its greatest stronghold.

These birds are very shy and you are much more likely to hear them, especially in the first hour after dawn, and most of all in winter. This can be quite a challenge! I've often been out when there's frost on the ground. I appreciate this is probably shattering many overseas people's image of Australia, but we even have ski resorts here, you know (though not in South Aust.)

Good spot for seeing many of the typical terrestrial birds of the Coorong National Park: on the south boundary of Salt Creek is a small bridge. Facing south, immediately past this bridge is a track to the right at a slight angle to the bitumen Princes Highway. Follow this track. It is called the Loop Road, and is a relic of the original bullock trail between Adelaide and Melbourne. It is only about 15 km long, but take all day if you want to. The south end meets up again with the highway.

Provided you start early, you'll certainly hear bristlebirds duetting.

A few km south of the south end of Loop Road is a turning off the Princes Hwy to the coast marked "42 mile crossing". Take this if you want to appreciate the scale of the magnificent sand dunes. Plenty of bristlebirds here too.

Thanks, Tannin, for telling the world of this very special place. And for people who want to share Tannin's experience, the accommodation must, I think, have been at Gemini Downs. Recommended, but if you like camping there are some camp sites along the Loop Road as well as elsewhere in the park. Wake up to bristlebirds!
 
PS

Tannin in passing wondered what the "SE" in Kingston SE might stand for. It simply means "south-east". This is to distinguish it from all the other Kingstons on the planet - or at any rate from the other South Australian one, which is on the Murray in Riverland.
 
Gemini Downs, yes indeed, Rufus. An excellent place to stay and very friendly. (I'd forgotten the name of it.)

I undoubtedly heard your Rufus Bristlebirds, as I was out very early on both mornings. Alas, not being on my own patch, so many of the calls were unfamilar to me that I didn't pick them out from the other new ones. Thanks for telling me about them. I'll be sure to pay more attention next time.

I followed my nose down that track you mentioned - indeed, it looked promising enough that it was the first thing I did - and enjoyed it a great deal. I have some nice Hooded Plover pictures from there that I must remember to post in the gallery. Another highlight was following the short walking track on the opposite (northern) side of Salt Creek out to where it joins the Coorong proper.
 
Tannin, I have only just now read your further detailed information and reply to my question. Please forgive me for not responding sooner, don't know why I didn't see it sooner, I may have been away for a few days and missed it. I still haven't read it all in detail
 
Hi Australia

My wife and I are looking forward very much to visiting Oz and NZ for a holiday in Sept 2004.

Amongst the places we will be staying are Cairns, Adelaide (with family) and Sydney. Afterwards we are off to the North Island of NZ (Roratua?). We do have some pre-booked trips - Cairns Rainforest, Barrossa Valley, Sydney Harbour Tour, Aboriginal Village and a Maori Village in NZ etc. On average we will be staying for 5 days at each.

I wondered if you had any tips etc for a very new, inexperienced, birder who has walking difficulties. I don't need in-depth, thechnical data or a must-see raraties birding list. Basically, without seeming to be rude or offensive, I just like to know what I have seen! Any recommended pocket type guides? Where should I be looking to buy them from etc?

I will be travelling with a small pair of 10x25 bino's for practical reasons. Any tips anyone could give me would be very much appreciated.

Regards,

edrick owl
 
Hi edrick owl,
At Cairns visit the waterfront at about half tide, you will see lots of shore birds and gulls, terns etc. Sydneys botanic garden is well worth a visit. Adelaide I can't help you with as I don't know the area well. New Zealand is very different as most of the native birds are either extinct or very rare and hard to find. A visit to Tiritiri Matanga Island is highly recommended and is an easy ferry trip from the mainland, near Auckland. It is an island reserve where they have eliminated the rats and all other predators. It is easy walking and you will see lots of Takahe.( large ground dwelling birds that are very rare elsewhere) They are very amusing to watch as they bumble around pecking at the grass, lots of other native birds there too.
Australian bird guides are many and varied but a bit big for a pocket. These have been discussed on another thread in detail but there is a series of small booklets put out by the Gould League that might do what you need. Trouble is that they only cover restricted areas and you end up having to buy many of them. In NZ I use a photographic guide by Geoff Moon, it is just about 'pocket' size.
Have a great time.
 
Thanks Nancy & Charles for your help and info. I will bear in mind what you have both said, and look forward to visiting in Sept.

Regards,

Edrick Owl.
 
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