jdbirdman
John Dempsey (jdbirdman)
South Africa part 1 Kwazulu Natal 15th - 29th Aug.2003
South Africa trip report
Part l
KwaZulu Natal 15th August- 29th August 2003
by
John Dempsey
Intro;
I have compiled this trip report from first hand experience and it is as accurate as I could possibly make it. I have avoided mentioning all of the 347 species observed concentrating mainly on those of interest albeit for one reason or another, so some common species may only be mentioned in the species list at the end of this report.
My return trip to South Africa was an eleventh hour decision; luckily alternative itineraries from last years planning were still on my computer. This meant few worries about organizing a workable birding route, although in hindsight the amount of traveling between good birding areas was a little exhausting. I would prefer less driving next time around.
My arrival date was more or less to the day I arrived last year, but this time I was to concentrate my efforts around KwaZulu Natal for those specials that could not be found elsewhere. My itinerary included many of the hotspots around Northern Natal thus enabling me to try and catch up on those species that eluded me last winter.
I decided after an initial day’s birding in Wakkerstroom en-route to Karkloof, to work the Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve, the premier Sand forests reserves of Dilinza and Ongoya St Lucia, Bonamanzi, Mkuze, Kosi Bay, Ndumu and Richmond in the Hoedspruit area in that order. All these areas needed to be visited if I was to stand any chance of success on my target birds. Whether it would be feasible? I would just have to find out!
Again I flew Air France (not by choice I might add) quite expensive at £670 due to the fact that I booked so late and all the cheaper seats had gone. Flying via Paris from Manchester to Jo’Burg the flight took 11 hours in total.
I hired a high clearance vehicle, a Toyota Condor, which was hired for the fifteen days. and cost more than the flight!! Making this an expensive trip, yet it still worked out a fraction of the price compared with the costs some of the well-known birding tour operators were charging.
A high clearance vehicle is a necessity, as one needs to be able to negotiate the mountainous terrain in the rural areas and the sand dune roads of Kosi Bay. High enough to see over foliage also makes the difference between seeing the birds and missing them, especially in the reserves.
Sterling was a not faring as well against the Rand as last year. The rate of exchange was R11.72 to £1.00 compared to R16 last year.
Distance covered from start to finish over the 15 days worked out just less than 4,000 km using 240 Litres at Fuel at a cost of R962.00.
Most accommodation was self-catering at the following rates these are shown in Rand. Per Person Per night
Wakkerstroom S/C guesthouse R 150.00
Karkloof DB&B Guesthouse R 330.00
Umgeni Valley NR S/C cottage R 120.00
Eshowe DB&B Guesthouse R 295.00
St. Lucia S/C Chalet R 200.00
Bonamanzi 2 Nts S/C Treehouse R 600.00
Mkuze 2 Nts Safari Tent R 420.00
Kosi Bay Self-catering Loghouse R 210.00
Ndumo 2 Nts S/C Hut R 320.00
Richmond 2 Nights Self-Catering R 100.00
I decided to use guides for certain areas:
John McAllister: Wakkerstroom an excellent guide and a nice guy too
Sibusiso: Ongoya Forest, Which I would never have found the entrance to. And Dlinza forest
Bheki: Bonamanzi, Had no choice as only the reserve’s guided 4x4 is allowed out into the floodplain
Angel:Mkuze, Again no choice as the fig forest walk at Mkuze must be accompanied by an armed guard.
Michael: Kosi Bay again no choice as you need a boat to get to the river mouth for Palmnut Vulture, and I couldn’t get one on my back…………
Itinerary
15th Wakkerstroom
16th Karkloof
17th Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve
18th Howick (Ongoya and Dilinza forests)
19th St Lucia
20-21st Bonamanzi
22nd-23rd Mkuze
24th 25th Kosi bay
26th 27th Ndumu
27th Richmond
28th Richmond
AUGUST 15th
None the worse after the boring 11 hour the flight I arrived on time at Jo’burg 10.00 am and picked up my hire car at the airport. Before proceeding to Wakkerstroom I freshened up at a boarding house and ticked off some common garden birds like Cape Sparrow, Olive Thrush and Lesser Masked Weavers along with Fiscal Shrike and a few noisy Woodhoopoes.
The road to Wakkerstroom held the obligatory Blackshouldered Kites and large mixed flocks of Widows mostly Longtailed and Redshouldered Widows. Fiscal Flycatcher was also ticked. As they flew from the roadside edges their red epaulets were visible and some individuals where almost into breeding plumage. An over wintering White Stork in a field with a couple of Capped Wheatears was a new SA species for me. A few Purple Widowfinches mixed in with Goldenbreasted Buntings were also new. Apparently Goldenbreasted Buntings play host to the widow finches so the widows tend to keep in the same flocks.
On arrival a quick look around one of the Dams gave some rewards. Little Swifts hunted insects on the wing while an immature Gymnogene was struggling to get a large fish onto the bank from the shallows. The usual swallows skimmed across the pan. Most were Lesser Striped Swallows with a couple of Whitethroated Swallows in amongst them. African Rail could be heard calling but I couldn’t locate it. African Snipe, Purple Gallinule, and African Marsh Harrier were making the most of the now diminishing light. Accommodation was not a problem in Wakkertroom as John McAlisters place was ideally situated. John, happened to be in the middle of birthday celebration when we met. I felt apologetic for arranging such an early start to birding next morning. It’s no fun when you have been celebrating the night before, but John did not seem to mind.
16th Aug
Out at first light and wrapped up for the cold the first signs of bird activity was in John Garden. Cape Weaver, Black Sunbird and Common Waxbill visited his feeder. Glossy Starling, Pied Starlings and a calling Bokmakerie were observed. The wind was getting up and most of the birds in the grassland were keeping low not so the numerous Orangethroated Longclaws! Red Capped Larks were also not letting the wind keep them down. A flock of Cape Canary’s perched on the barbed wire fence as we went into back burned field looking for the Yellowbreasted Pipit, but to no avail. We did have a possible sighting of a none breeding plumage bird, but this was too dubious to tick. We did however manage to flush a covey of Redwinged Francolin, a new bird for me.
One of my must see birds the Blue Koraan put in an appearance too, in fact four birds showed well. A male Sentinal Rockthrush was also scoped. Then it was off to tape out Eastern Longbilled Lark, which duly obliged Greywinged Francolins were also observed. Anteating Chats occupied fences in the grasslands and a Secretary bird surprised me as we inadvertently flushed it from the field edge.
Redthroated Wryneck also answered the call – another new bird for me.
I wasn’t expecting a lot from Wakkerstroom as this was not the best time of year for birding the grasslands and as the wind was getting up the decision was made to head to Karkloof. Not before ticking of South African Cliff Swallow while following a detour John had given me in the hope of seeing White-bellied Korhaan. Which I didn’t!! Wattled Starling was also ticked. Karkloof is situated in the Natal Midlands and its rolling hills are a scenic area and very productive bird wise with the added bonus of some very good mist belt birding.
A quick look at Howick Falls on the way to Karkloof gave good views of a large flock of wheeling Alpine Swifts in a stunning setting. Light was fading fast it was time to head for Thistledown guesthouse. A delightful place tucked away among a forested hillside, Thistledown guesthouse had its own charm with a welcoming log fire and great birds.
17th Aug
Next morning a stroll around the mature gardens was rewarding with more of the commoner birds Rock Pigeon (Now speckled Pigeon) Cape Robin, Goldenbreasted Bunting, Collared and Black Sunbird, Southern Boubou, Orangebreasted Bushshrike. A colony of Spottedbacked Weavers, Kurrichane Thrush, and Dusky Flycatcher made for some interesting digi-scoping. After a very quick but well prepared and ample breakfast, it was time to head down one of the forest tracks. I set my scope up on a high vantage point, which proved to be a very good idea. A Forest Buzzard perched up on a bare tree but was too far to Digi-scope. A confusing raptor perched up not too far from the buzzard also left me without much chance. This turned out to be an Imm. Gymnogene.
The noise of Cranes drew my eyes skyward as a pair of elegant Blue Cranes flew into a field below. A quick scan located them, and to my surprise a single Wattled Crane strutted in a field adjacent to where the Blue Cranes were feeding. The field guides do this beautiful bird no favors – it is quite a stunner. I thought it too good to be true seeing two Crane species in more or less the same vicinity so when I noticed a flock of 40 Southern Crowned Cranes in another field I was dumb struck. Three cranes in one scope view was one of the highlights of the trip and one I am sure will probably never be repeated.
I quickly grabbed my equipment and headed for the car in order to digi-scope what I could. The walk back for the car and the drive down felt like an eternity. When I finally got there I was frustrated as the Blue Cranes were behind the tree line, as was the Wattled Crane! I did however manage to digi-scope the Crowned Cranes.
After what was probably too long spent Digi-scoping. I decided to leave for Leopards Bush...........
South Africa trip report
Part l
KwaZulu Natal 15th August- 29th August 2003
by
John Dempsey
Intro;
I have compiled this trip report from first hand experience and it is as accurate as I could possibly make it. I have avoided mentioning all of the 347 species observed concentrating mainly on those of interest albeit for one reason or another, so some common species may only be mentioned in the species list at the end of this report.
My return trip to South Africa was an eleventh hour decision; luckily alternative itineraries from last years planning were still on my computer. This meant few worries about organizing a workable birding route, although in hindsight the amount of traveling between good birding areas was a little exhausting. I would prefer less driving next time around.
My arrival date was more or less to the day I arrived last year, but this time I was to concentrate my efforts around KwaZulu Natal for those specials that could not be found elsewhere. My itinerary included many of the hotspots around Northern Natal thus enabling me to try and catch up on those species that eluded me last winter.
I decided after an initial day’s birding in Wakkerstroom en-route to Karkloof, to work the Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve, the premier Sand forests reserves of Dilinza and Ongoya St Lucia, Bonamanzi, Mkuze, Kosi Bay, Ndumu and Richmond in the Hoedspruit area in that order. All these areas needed to be visited if I was to stand any chance of success on my target birds. Whether it would be feasible? I would just have to find out!
Again I flew Air France (not by choice I might add) quite expensive at £670 due to the fact that I booked so late and all the cheaper seats had gone. Flying via Paris from Manchester to Jo’Burg the flight took 11 hours in total.
I hired a high clearance vehicle, a Toyota Condor, which was hired for the fifteen days. and cost more than the flight!! Making this an expensive trip, yet it still worked out a fraction of the price compared with the costs some of the well-known birding tour operators were charging.
A high clearance vehicle is a necessity, as one needs to be able to negotiate the mountainous terrain in the rural areas and the sand dune roads of Kosi Bay. High enough to see over foliage also makes the difference between seeing the birds and missing them, especially in the reserves.
Sterling was a not faring as well against the Rand as last year. The rate of exchange was R11.72 to £1.00 compared to R16 last year.
Distance covered from start to finish over the 15 days worked out just less than 4,000 km using 240 Litres at Fuel at a cost of R962.00.
Most accommodation was self-catering at the following rates these are shown in Rand. Per Person Per night
Wakkerstroom S/C guesthouse R 150.00
Karkloof DB&B Guesthouse R 330.00
Umgeni Valley NR S/C cottage R 120.00
Eshowe DB&B Guesthouse R 295.00
St. Lucia S/C Chalet R 200.00
Bonamanzi 2 Nts S/C Treehouse R 600.00
Mkuze 2 Nts Safari Tent R 420.00
Kosi Bay Self-catering Loghouse R 210.00
Ndumo 2 Nts S/C Hut R 320.00
Richmond 2 Nights Self-Catering R 100.00
I decided to use guides for certain areas:
John McAllister: Wakkerstroom an excellent guide and a nice guy too
Sibusiso: Ongoya Forest, Which I would never have found the entrance to. And Dlinza forest
Bheki: Bonamanzi, Had no choice as only the reserve’s guided 4x4 is allowed out into the floodplain
Angel:Mkuze, Again no choice as the fig forest walk at Mkuze must be accompanied by an armed guard.
Michael: Kosi Bay again no choice as you need a boat to get to the river mouth for Palmnut Vulture, and I couldn’t get one on my back…………
Itinerary
15th Wakkerstroom
16th Karkloof
17th Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve
18th Howick (Ongoya and Dilinza forests)
19th St Lucia
20-21st Bonamanzi
22nd-23rd Mkuze
24th 25th Kosi bay
26th 27th Ndumu
27th Richmond
28th Richmond
AUGUST 15th
None the worse after the boring 11 hour the flight I arrived on time at Jo’burg 10.00 am and picked up my hire car at the airport. Before proceeding to Wakkerstroom I freshened up at a boarding house and ticked off some common garden birds like Cape Sparrow, Olive Thrush and Lesser Masked Weavers along with Fiscal Shrike and a few noisy Woodhoopoes.
The road to Wakkerstroom held the obligatory Blackshouldered Kites and large mixed flocks of Widows mostly Longtailed and Redshouldered Widows. Fiscal Flycatcher was also ticked. As they flew from the roadside edges their red epaulets were visible and some individuals where almost into breeding plumage. An over wintering White Stork in a field with a couple of Capped Wheatears was a new SA species for me. A few Purple Widowfinches mixed in with Goldenbreasted Buntings were also new. Apparently Goldenbreasted Buntings play host to the widow finches so the widows tend to keep in the same flocks.
On arrival a quick look around one of the Dams gave some rewards. Little Swifts hunted insects on the wing while an immature Gymnogene was struggling to get a large fish onto the bank from the shallows. The usual swallows skimmed across the pan. Most were Lesser Striped Swallows with a couple of Whitethroated Swallows in amongst them. African Rail could be heard calling but I couldn’t locate it. African Snipe, Purple Gallinule, and African Marsh Harrier were making the most of the now diminishing light. Accommodation was not a problem in Wakkertroom as John McAlisters place was ideally situated. John, happened to be in the middle of birthday celebration when we met. I felt apologetic for arranging such an early start to birding next morning. It’s no fun when you have been celebrating the night before, but John did not seem to mind.
16th Aug
Out at first light and wrapped up for the cold the first signs of bird activity was in John Garden. Cape Weaver, Black Sunbird and Common Waxbill visited his feeder. Glossy Starling, Pied Starlings and a calling Bokmakerie were observed. The wind was getting up and most of the birds in the grassland were keeping low not so the numerous Orangethroated Longclaws! Red Capped Larks were also not letting the wind keep them down. A flock of Cape Canary’s perched on the barbed wire fence as we went into back burned field looking for the Yellowbreasted Pipit, but to no avail. We did have a possible sighting of a none breeding plumage bird, but this was too dubious to tick. We did however manage to flush a covey of Redwinged Francolin, a new bird for me.
One of my must see birds the Blue Koraan put in an appearance too, in fact four birds showed well. A male Sentinal Rockthrush was also scoped. Then it was off to tape out Eastern Longbilled Lark, which duly obliged Greywinged Francolins were also observed. Anteating Chats occupied fences in the grasslands and a Secretary bird surprised me as we inadvertently flushed it from the field edge.
Redthroated Wryneck also answered the call – another new bird for me.
I wasn’t expecting a lot from Wakkerstroom as this was not the best time of year for birding the grasslands and as the wind was getting up the decision was made to head to Karkloof. Not before ticking of South African Cliff Swallow while following a detour John had given me in the hope of seeing White-bellied Korhaan. Which I didn’t!! Wattled Starling was also ticked. Karkloof is situated in the Natal Midlands and its rolling hills are a scenic area and very productive bird wise with the added bonus of some very good mist belt birding.
A quick look at Howick Falls on the way to Karkloof gave good views of a large flock of wheeling Alpine Swifts in a stunning setting. Light was fading fast it was time to head for Thistledown guesthouse. A delightful place tucked away among a forested hillside, Thistledown guesthouse had its own charm with a welcoming log fire and great birds.
17th Aug
Next morning a stroll around the mature gardens was rewarding with more of the commoner birds Rock Pigeon (Now speckled Pigeon) Cape Robin, Goldenbreasted Bunting, Collared and Black Sunbird, Southern Boubou, Orangebreasted Bushshrike. A colony of Spottedbacked Weavers, Kurrichane Thrush, and Dusky Flycatcher made for some interesting digi-scoping. After a very quick but well prepared and ample breakfast, it was time to head down one of the forest tracks. I set my scope up on a high vantage point, which proved to be a very good idea. A Forest Buzzard perched up on a bare tree but was too far to Digi-scope. A confusing raptor perched up not too far from the buzzard also left me without much chance. This turned out to be an Imm. Gymnogene.
The noise of Cranes drew my eyes skyward as a pair of elegant Blue Cranes flew into a field below. A quick scan located them, and to my surprise a single Wattled Crane strutted in a field adjacent to where the Blue Cranes were feeding. The field guides do this beautiful bird no favors – it is quite a stunner. I thought it too good to be true seeing two Crane species in more or less the same vicinity so when I noticed a flock of 40 Southern Crowned Cranes in another field I was dumb struck. Three cranes in one scope view was one of the highlights of the trip and one I am sure will probably never be repeated.
I quickly grabbed my equipment and headed for the car in order to digi-scope what I could. The walk back for the car and the drive down felt like an eternity. When I finally got there I was frustrated as the Blue Cranes were behind the tree line, as was the Wattled Crane! I did however manage to digi-scope the Crowned Cranes.
After what was probably too long spent Digi-scoping. I decided to leave for Leopards Bush...........