birdclub
Pantanal Bird Club
About jaguar watching and the tales surrounding it
Jaguars are best to be seen in the boat rides along Cuiaba river, Piquiri river and the Encontro das Aguas state Park (including Tres Irmaos river).
A little behind the scenes stories to understand properly the situation:
2010 was a nightmare, once the State Environmental Agency (SEMA) tried to close the "Encontro das Aguas State Park" and indeed, they did it for a week or two. All this problem started when a illegal camp was established inside the State Park, operated for two years and call all the attention to its services, "guarateeing" jaguar spotting. Of course, this was far too suspitious, especially due to the background operations during the first year (pig farm for baiting jaguars, for exe.) Pig farm stopped and lot of caiman carcases started to show up along the river banks, just where the "easy" jaguars were seen. Of course, NOBODY saw anybody killing caiman, but only caiman tails (the softest part of meat, normally the one poachers eat) were found along the river banks. This was notified to the SEMA, and they patrolled the State Park, found nothing about poaching or baiting, but found the illegal camp. They notified them to leave the area under a small fine. The camp did not leave, were notified again now with a bigger fine, they did not care, the third time all equipment including motor boats, tents and a vessel were confiscated, and the fine was over a million Brazilian reais. The owners of the camp, are still operating, in 2010 in rented fishing boats and in 2011 they are installing the camp the other side of the river which is another State and the SEMA cannot perturb them (for now I guess).
SEMA is still trying to close the Encontro das Aguas State Park for tourism, especially jaguar watching, due to the problems they had with the camp and increasing numbers of jaguar attack to people in the pantanal region, not especifically in this area, but you know how are the tabloids, Jaguars are eating people in the Pantanal sells more.
Unfortunately all other tour operators and guides are feeling the collateral effects, but FORTUNATELY jaguars could be seen outside the Encontro das Aguas State Park, and there are couple of good fishing lodges to use as based for jaguar excursions. In fact, during 2010 we saw nearly all "our" jaguars in the Piquiri river and Cuiaba river as well.
Jaguar watching is not cheap, especially because you must to go to the end of the Transpantaneira road (involving car rental and crossing 126 wooden bridges each way!), and then take quiet expensive boat rides, and sit for long hours (at least 4-5 each outing). One day is not enough (unless you are extremely lucky, but if you are that lucky probably will see the jaguar along the road!), two days is better, three even better and four days ahead is boring! unless you are a jaguar frick or a professional photographer. The best will be to join an organized group or go with several friends to share the expenses.
Giant Anteater are much common in the southern pantanal, less in the northern part and very common in cerrado habitat such as Emas NP, Canastra, etc. Once you want to see jaguars and Giant Anteater, the best combination is going to the northern Pantanal and Emas NP, a 10 days itinerary will give you the chance to see South American Big Five (Giant Otter, Brazilian Tapir, Giant Anteater, Jaguar and Maned Wolf) in order of difficulty, plus several other mammals and the best selection of birds.
Julinho Monteiro (pantanaltrackers.com) is a good guide and quiet expert in finding jaguars, the Pantanal Bird Club (pantanalbirdclub.org) runs a Big Five Safari with open tours to join, Giuliano Bernardon (a friend of mine) is also a good guide to go with, Indri's local ground operator is based in Argentina! (despite Miguel Castelino is also a good friend of mine). Several tour operators from the US and UK are selling Jaguar Safaris (mostly once a year) but I do not know who is the local ground operator to comment about it. Sorry about the long writing, I tried to clear your doubts about this kind of tour in Brazil.
Jaguars are best to be seen in the boat rides along Cuiaba river, Piquiri river and the Encontro das Aguas state Park (including Tres Irmaos river).
A little behind the scenes stories to understand properly the situation:
2010 was a nightmare, once the State Environmental Agency (SEMA) tried to close the "Encontro das Aguas State Park" and indeed, they did it for a week or two. All this problem started when a illegal camp was established inside the State Park, operated for two years and call all the attention to its services, "guarateeing" jaguar spotting. Of course, this was far too suspitious, especially due to the background operations during the first year (pig farm for baiting jaguars, for exe.) Pig farm stopped and lot of caiman carcases started to show up along the river banks, just where the "easy" jaguars were seen. Of course, NOBODY saw anybody killing caiman, but only caiman tails (the softest part of meat, normally the one poachers eat) were found along the river banks. This was notified to the SEMA, and they patrolled the State Park, found nothing about poaching or baiting, but found the illegal camp. They notified them to leave the area under a small fine. The camp did not leave, were notified again now with a bigger fine, they did not care, the third time all equipment including motor boats, tents and a vessel were confiscated, and the fine was over a million Brazilian reais. The owners of the camp, are still operating, in 2010 in rented fishing boats and in 2011 they are installing the camp the other side of the river which is another State and the SEMA cannot perturb them (for now I guess).
SEMA is still trying to close the Encontro das Aguas State Park for tourism, especially jaguar watching, due to the problems they had with the camp and increasing numbers of jaguar attack to people in the pantanal region, not especifically in this area, but you know how are the tabloids, Jaguars are eating people in the Pantanal sells more.
Unfortunately all other tour operators and guides are feeling the collateral effects, but FORTUNATELY jaguars could be seen outside the Encontro das Aguas State Park, and there are couple of good fishing lodges to use as based for jaguar excursions. In fact, during 2010 we saw nearly all "our" jaguars in the Piquiri river and Cuiaba river as well.
Jaguar watching is not cheap, especially because you must to go to the end of the Transpantaneira road (involving car rental and crossing 126 wooden bridges each way!), and then take quiet expensive boat rides, and sit for long hours (at least 4-5 each outing). One day is not enough (unless you are extremely lucky, but if you are that lucky probably will see the jaguar along the road!), two days is better, three even better and four days ahead is boring! unless you are a jaguar frick or a professional photographer. The best will be to join an organized group or go with several friends to share the expenses.
Giant Anteater are much common in the southern pantanal, less in the northern part and very common in cerrado habitat such as Emas NP, Canastra, etc. Once you want to see jaguars and Giant Anteater, the best combination is going to the northern Pantanal and Emas NP, a 10 days itinerary will give you the chance to see South American Big Five (Giant Otter, Brazilian Tapir, Giant Anteater, Jaguar and Maned Wolf) in order of difficulty, plus several other mammals and the best selection of birds.
Julinho Monteiro (pantanaltrackers.com) is a good guide and quiet expert in finding jaguars, the Pantanal Bird Club (pantanalbirdclub.org) runs a Big Five Safari with open tours to join, Giuliano Bernardon (a friend of mine) is also a good guide to go with, Indri's local ground operator is based in Argentina! (despite Miguel Castelino is also a good friend of mine). Several tour operators from the US and UK are selling Jaguar Safaris (mostly once a year) but I do not know who is the local ground operator to comment about it. Sorry about the long writing, I tried to clear your doubts about this kind of tour in Brazil.