RFI Northern Brazil (1 Viewer)

[njlarsen]

We have some friends with a house in northern Brazil, I think it is in the little town of Cururupu (or at least close to that); seems to be in the state of Maranhão. We could probably visit them there next summer, so:

I would like to know what would make good targets for excursions from there, and secondly, if we could get to make a boat tour on the Amazon river from there (yes, I know that would take either some driving or flying), what would be a good company to go with?

thanks
Niels

 

[Rasmus Boegh]

Maranhão is far off the beaten track and very few birders visit the state. Coastal northern Maranhão is primarily waders and alike. The region around and just east of São Luis (and the Baía de São Marcos) is among the most important wintering sites in entire South America, but there are also a number of mangrove and/or coastal forest specialists such as Rufous Crab-Hawk, Scarlet Ibis, Golden-spangled Piculet and Plain-bellied Emerald. Other birding sites are primarily in the central, far south or west of the state (e.g. Kaempfer's Woodpecker has been seen near São Pedro da Água Branca). In the far west near the Rio Tocantins a wide range of river specialists can be seen, e.g. Glossy Antshrike, but little Amazonian forest remains there. Amazonian forests do remain elsewhere in the west (mainly in the Serra do Tiracambu area, where a wide range of Amazonian species such as the White-crested Guan and Pearly Parakeet still occur), but unfortunately deforestation has been pretty extreme in Maranhão (even by Amazonian standards). Drier Caatinga-like woodlands are scattered more or less throughout the state (e.g. near São João dos Patos), and species like Jandaya Parakeet, Hooded Gnateater (difficult without playback) and Ash-throated Casiornis are all fairly common. Sorry, little specific info, but years since I've been there last. If you go, best of luck as there's certainly plenty of possibilities, but finding specific up-to-date info will be very difficult.

I haven't spend any amount of time on "ordinary" boat tours on the Amazon, but in Brazil virtually all start from Manaus, which is pretty far from Maranhão. Nevertheless, some flights from countries further north are via Manaus, in which case you may be able to stop for a day or two. Loads of birding sites near Manaus.

 

[njlarsen]

Thank you Rasmus. Sounds like a) there will be mostly widespread species, which would be OK for my first visit to the country, and b) I will be very much on my own -- I have tried that before!

Thanks again
Niels

 

[Rasmus Boegh]

there will be mostly widespread species

Yes and no. The percentage of widespread species is no lower than in most other Brazilian states. For example, the Amazonian forest found in western Maranhão is part of the so-called Tocantins-Araguaia-Maranhão moist forests, which have a fairly high percentage of endemics (and several distinctive subspecies of widespread Amazonian species that may end up split into several species). However, most birders that see the species associated with this ecozone see them at a few better known localities in the neighbouring state Pará. In contrast, eastern Maranhão is Cerrado with an influx of Caatinga. Both these also have a fairly high percentage of endemics, but - as is the case with the Amazon mentioned before - birders that see these endemics typically see them in other states. So, the chance for numerous range-restricted species certainly is there, though I suspect access to the remaining primary Amazon may be difficult (the very reason why it still is there), even if some of it may be as little as 50-100 km south-west of Cururupu. Unless you can find some good info on access to this somewhere, it is a matter of close-reading maps and checking google earth (even if it appears they took the photos of western Maranhão on a particularly cloudy day!).

 

[njlarsen]

Thank you Rasmus!

One more question: I suspect that the best field guide for this area is the relatively recent birds of non-amazonian Brazil (http://www.avisbrasilis.com.br/produtos_descricao.asp?codigo_produto=3)? I already have the Restall Birds of Northern SA, and would like to know if there are other books I should consider presently out or coming soon?

thanks again
Niels

 

[Rasmus Boegh]

Thank you Rasmus!

One more question: I suspect that the best field guide for this area is the relatively recent birds of non-amazonian Brazil (http://www.avisbrasilis.com.br/produtos_descricao.asp?codigo_produto=3)? I already have the Restall Birds of Northern SA, and would like to know if there are other books I should consider presently out or coming soon?

thanks again
Niels

I'd suggest you wait before buying another guide if you're thinking about the trip in the summer of 2009, as indicated in the intial post.

 

[njlarsen]

I'd suggest you wait before buying another guide if you're thinking about the trip in the summer of 2009, as indicated in the initial post.

That was my initial intent. Our daughter has just mentioned her pregnancy, so maybe the trip next summer will go somewhere else; if that is the case, our Brazilian trip may be delayed even further || (I feel like Janus, wanting to display both a grin reaching from here to the moon and a sour mask because I want to go birdwatching tomorrow or even better yesterday!)

Thanks Rasmus :t:
Niels

 

[sarahbn]

I guess you aren't going any more but If you do decide to go I think Belem is closer than Manaus and you can certainly catch a boat there to go on the Amazon I haven't been there in over 22 years and about 36 years for Manaus But I remember that Belem is a major gateway port on the Amazon

 

[Rasmus Boegh]

I guess you aren't going any more but If you do decide to go I think Belem is closer than Manaus and you can certainly catch a boat there to go on the Amazon I haven't been there in over 22 years and about 36 years for Manaus But I remember that Belem is a major gateway port on the Amazon

You are entirely correct; Belém is closer and it is also a major transport hub, but there are very few - if any - Amazonian boat tours (of the type that generally is of interest for birders and alike, i.e. not ferries transporting people and goods between various Amazonian cities) that depart from there. The reason is grim; there is little riverine primary Amazonian forest left near this major city - when it comes to deforestation, eastern Pará isn't doing much better than Maranhão. That said, there are a few excellent reserves and lodges near Belém (notably Caxiuanã, though being ~400 km from Belém may not really qualify as "near"), and some of these can be reached by boat, but that hardly qualifies for the requested boat tour. It should be mentioned that the better reserves & lodges in this region generally belong in the high price range, even by Amazon lodge standards. The vast majority of Amazonian boat tours depart from either Manaus (Brazil) or Iquitos (Peru).

 

[njlarsen]

Thank you both!

For several reasons, my trip has been postponed, and is now provisionally scheduled for the summer of 2010. Any updates as we get closer will be very welcome!

Niels