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Overnight camping around Felipe Carrillo Puerto (Yucatan) (1 Viewer)

Alan Gage

Active member
Heading to the Yucatan at the end of the month. Will mainly be in Puerto Morelos but plan on taking off 2 or 3 days by myself for some birding and hiking. I'd like to spend an afternoon and the following morning in Coba and then take a bus to check out the dirt road east of Felipe Carrillo Puerto. I'll be on foot at that point so I'll be walking out of town.

Ideally I'd arrive in Felipe Carrillo Puerto by bus just after noon and spend the rest of the afternoon walking along the road, set up my hammock in the woods for the night and in the morning do some more birding before walking back to town and catching a bus back to Puerto Morelos. I plan on walking at least 5 miles from town.

What I want to know is if I'm crazy or not (everyone else seems to think I am). Seems like it would be a pretty safe area to me and most likely no one would even know I was there. Any advice from those that have been there?

Thanks,

Alan
 
Hi, Alan -

My memory of that road is getting a little faded but I think your plan is possible though pretty rugged for my tastes. If you got off the road behind some vegetation, I agree that no one would know you are there. After all, you are just talking about one night and that road does not have much traffic. We've spent entire days there and could count on one hand the number of vehicles that pass. It's a good variety of second growth, overgrown cornfields and swamp land.
You may get lucky and get one of the lovely cabanas at some farmer's finca as shown in the photo. Don't forget to reserve ahead! 8-P
The other picture of our rental car on Vigia Chico Road is circa 2008.

Steve
 

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Got back from my trip a few days ago. Spent an overnight off Vigia Chico road with no problems. Hardest part was finding a spot open enough to hang the hammock. Woke up at 2am to a Mottled Owl calling right over my head.

Successful trip overall, 118 different species with 78 of them being lifers.

Alan
 
Muy bien, Alan. My wife and I went with friends a number of miles out Vigia Chico road for owls one evening and heard the Mottled owl also, along with Yucatan Poorwill, Pauraque and Vermiculated Screech Owl. We saw the Pauraque landing on the road but neither Owl nor Poorwill was visible. What else did you find on that road?
Any pictures from your trip?

Steve
 
Mottled owls were all I heard that night, though admittedly I'm not at all familiar with bird calls down there. The Mottled owl was obvious enough that I could figure it out from the field guide. I broke camp about 4:30am as the weather was cooler than expected and I was very cold in my hammock since I didn't have room in my pack for a blanket. The moon was still up but it was very dark walking along the road. Nightjars were whizzing by my face so that I could feel the breeze but I couldn't see them. About 45 minutes before sunrise when the sky was just starting to lighten up I heard a couple Mottled Owls calling close by so I tried imitating their call and within 10 seconds one landed on a dead limb about 30 feet away, that was pretty neat.

I think I walked about 15 miles down the road before turning around and heading back to town. That got me to an area that had a large overgrown pasture on one side of the road and jungle on the other. I spent about 1 1/2 hours on that 200 yard stretch at sunrise.

I don't believe I saw anything terribly uncommon but some of the highlights along the road for me, just because they were birds I thought were neat, were long billed gnat-wren, barred ant shrike, all 4 (or was it 5?) wood creepers shown in that range, black headed and violaceous trogons, olive and green backed sparrows (I like sparrows), and lots and lots of hummingbirds (I only saw buff bellied and ruby throated).

Other highlights were getting to see an ant swarm (that's where I picked up 3 of the 4 woodcreepers) and a file of leaf cutting ants.

At first walking down the road I was disappointed when comparing it to Coba. The forest seems much younger with a less dense canopy and a lot more undergrowth. I found Coba much more enjoyable and scenic for walking around and within the forest itself I thought Coba seemed to have more bird activity during all hours of the day. Even at sunrise and sunset Vigia Chico road seemed nearly dead where it was bordering forest on both sides while Coba seemed, even in the middle of the day, to have a fair about of bird activity. And Coba had noticeably more at sunrise and sunset.

But what Vigia Chico road did have going for it was a lot of varied habitat and edges. After the first few hours I didn't think I was going to see many birds along Vigia Chico that I hadn't already seen at Coba, but as the miles rolled by and I walked through areas that went from dense forest to not so dense forest and to fields and pastures the species kept piling up.

Coba was a great place for a nice walk in the woods and the birding wasn't shabby at all (only place I saw a turquoise browed motmot and collared arcari). I got there around noon one day and left at 3pm the next afternoon and had no problem filling the time with exploring. I do like to walk though. Vigia Chico road did offer more birds but it wasn't as scenic or enjoyable to walk.

There are some pictures on my Flickr page. Some birding pics but most of them are just general stuff. http://www.flickr.com/photos/7935459@N05/sets/72157632676314912/

Alan

Alan
 
Thanks for the "mini" trip report, Alan. We liked Coba also but not better, just in a different way. Vigia Chico goes on forever it seems; just pick a new section every day. The second growth and overgrown fincas definitely have different birds than the more heavily forested Coba. Because of the denser vegetation, I think harder to see also. We saw ant swarms at both places. I didn't mind the lack of crowds on Vigia Chico!

Steve
 
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