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Monarch 82ED, a Perfect Ten (1 Viewer)

FYI - Nikon has a refurbished Monarch 82ED (Straight) and a 60ED (angled) on sale now...

 
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FYI - Nikon has a refurbished Monarch 82ED (Straight) and a 60ED (angled) on sale now...

Does anyone know about the warranty with regard to refurbished scopes? Thanks.
 
Does anyone know about the warranty with regard to refurbished scopes? Thanks.
Actually, I had forgotten that I posted this question previously. Found the answer. 90 day warranty.

I pulled the trigger on the refurbished scope on the Nikon website. Crossing my fingers for a good one. $1,007.00 plus tax. Seems like it's worth a chance.
 
Actually, I had forgotten that I posted this question previously. Found the answer. 90 day warranty.

I pulled the trigger on the refurbished scope on the Nikon website. Crossing my fingers for a good one. $1,007.00 plus tax. Seems like it's worth a chance.
I thought I’d read somewhere that you get the full warranty? Might be worth a phone call. Anyway, congrats and enjoy!
 
Received this scope. Haven't had much of a chance to use it in the last few days. Work and weather have kept me confined. The few moments I have had to play with it have primarily been looking through windows to the outside, so nothing fair about that. Regardless, seems promising.

Angled might have been better for me, but we will see. For the money, seems like it will be great. Concerned about the narrow FOV, which I knew to expect, but still a bit surprised.

Still, for the money, seems promising. Hopefully, it is one of the better ones, like have been experienced by others on this thread.
 
I had this scope out with my digiscoping adapter (Phoneskope) for a few minutes this afternoon. The adapter is ordered from Phonskope for this specific model. However, there is a very frustrating donut effect. I can only use the scope at magnifications between the lowest and highest settings, but not at the lowest and highest. At those powers the fov is obscured at the edges. The donut effect, though, is present throughout the range of magnification.

I am probably not explaining it well. My apologies. The center of the fov is brighter than the outside edges. It is present always, but the center gets darker as I increase the magnification, and vice versa.

What would be the cause of this? I think I really like the scope, especially for the money, but my Kowa and Zeiss seemed to be more suited to digiscoping. ???
 
I had this scope out with my digiscoping adapter (Phoneskope) for a few minutes this afternoon. The adapter is ordered from Phonskope for this specific model. However, there is a very frustrating donut effect. I can only use the scope at magnifications between the lowest and highest settings, but not at the lowest and highest. At those powers the fov is obscured at the edges. The donut effect, though, is present throughout the range of magnification.

I am probably not explaining it well. My apologies. The center of the fov is brighter than the outside edges. It is present always, but the center gets darker as I increase the magnification, and vice versa.

What would be the cause of this? I think I really like the scope, especially for the money, but my Kowa and Zeiss seemed to be more suited to digiscoping. ???
Joker, I've had the same problem with my latest PS adapter on my newer phone. My older adapter (and phone) worked marvelously with both my older ED 82 Fieldscope and my current Monarch 82. (zooms and 38x WF EPs) The latest PS adapter just doesn't sit right on the EPs - neither alignment nor eyepoint distance seem to be right. Nikon EPs don't seem to be a major market for PS, so the engineering might not be best. Just my guess based on recent experience. I have fiddle about with alignment and placement to adjust for the donut effect, with limited success. (I also made PS make me a custom adapter, also marginally successful.) I'm considering moving to a Novagrade adapt.

It's the adapter, not the scope.
RL
 
Play with the spacing of the adapter from the eyepiece, I found some noticable differences when making an adapter for a pair of binoculars and a microscope.

Peter
 
Ok. I have had it out a few times. I think there are many positives about this scope, but digiscoping seems to be less intuitive with this scope than others I have used. I am sure I can adapt. But, with the minimal use I have experienced, that is its weakness.

This is the refurbished unit from the Nikon website. I am on the fence, and hope they will accept a return, if I decide to got that route. The twist out eye-cup seems to be a problem. It does not have a position in which it does not continue to rotate. I would expect that it would twist out to max, and click into place there. At the very least, not continue to spin. The same thing when rotated in. Basically, it just feels sloppy and as if it is defective. Otherwise, especially for the money, this is a nice scope.

Color correction seems to be fair. Whites seem to be a bit too bright to my eye, and seems worse in my phone/camera. Against a bright background, birds and branches seem to be sharp and very little to zero fringing. So, I am not sure what those two opposing situations mean.

I will try to do a star test and take those photos, but it seems to star test quite well. I used my Hubble Artificial star. Tight rings inside and outside. I was using an old tripod that I borrowed from my BIL until my new stuff arrived. So, too wobbly to be reliable. However, it seemed that the pattern was slightly oval, but oriented differently inside vs outside. Astigmatism? In other words, top left to right one way and top right to left the other. Description make sense?

Other than that, the rings seemed very similar to identical inside and outside. There might have been a slight flaring, very slight, of the outer ring inside and less outside of focus, or vice versa, but, again, very slight. Is that roughness, turned edge, or? I need to read Suiter's book again (barely comprehended even the photos, so I am not sure it will help).

Overall, the star test looked pretty good to my eye. Considering all of the glass in a spotter, I am not sure I can complain about too much optically, except maybe a bit of a struggle with color control, and the astigmatism. (would my slight astigmatism in my eye show up that way?)

For the digiscoping, though, I find it difficult to get my phone's focus and the scope's focus to coordinate. I have found that my photos do NOT look as good as the phone's screen when I snap them. Part of that might be user error, and inexperience with the scope. However, other scopes have been virtually "plug and play" in that regard. I am going to continue playing with it to see if I can work those issues out. The color issue, though, I am not sure will wane.

The light throughput, for my set-up, is disappointing too. Granted, I am trying to continue using an inferior camera, my Samsung S21 Ultra, vs a real camera, but my shutter speeds, even in excellent light, are so slow that I struggle. This might be the phone, because my Kowa 883 was not vastly superior here, but it seems that the Nikon is worse.

So, here is the big question for me. Does the 20-60W eyepiece take this scope to the next level? Does it truly open up the FOV? I have been disappointed in the FOV more than anything, EVEN though I was well aware of its reputation in that regard. I just was not prepared for how truly restrictive it is. I would be willing to buy that ep if it transforms this scope into something significantly better. But, if it does not, I am not sure I can keep it.

The way I look at it, for the money, it is a shockingly nice scope. Other than the slightly inferior color control, FOV, and possibly defective eyepiece/eye-cup, I can ignore the double and triple cost scopes, because this really is just a hobby. And, while maybe I am nitpicking, I really would like to keep it, unless those things cannot be overcome.

I will try to get some star test photos for the experts here. In the meantime, I will attach some general use photos. I was at our marsh twice or three times this week. The last time was last night. I did not spend much time there, but caught a Redhead Wood pecker, and a Whitetail doe. Also, caught this nice buck, but it was deep into the dusk. Had to really edit the photo to get a sharp enough image. All are processed RAW images with the S21 Ultra and PS Express, except the Jupiter photo. It was a 19 or 20 second video with the S21 shot with UHD60 and 1200 frames reduced to the best 500 with PIPP and then 10% of those were processed/stacked with Registax, etc. So, not sure it really makes sense. The scope was at 60x (I think) and the phone set at the 2X optical zoom. I really do NOT know what I am doing, but the end result was pretty close to what I get with my astro scope (Intes Micro Deluxe MN65 or Meade LX200 10" classic) and my phone.

Sorry for the long post. Hopefully someone can speak to the Nikon wide angle zoom value, and hopefully my long post helps someone else. I am sure the star test will be more helpful. But, until then...
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I’m interested in the scope for using astro eyepieces, I don’t like constructed views. Sounds like the optics are good.

Peter
 
Hi Joker,

For an 82mm scope the Jupiter photo is good if a little strange.

Are those two moons or just artifacts?

Personally, for the price i would keep it.
But your use might be different.

Regards,
B.
 
Joker - it sounds like you might not have a great phone adapter (the novagrade model is the only one I’ve found to be worthwhile), and you may also benefit from unscrewing the eye-ring end of the eyepiece and clamping the adapter directly to the threaded part of the eyepiece. The wide version of the eyepiece even comes with a smaller diameter attachment for use with digiscope adapter. I recommend calling the staff at optics4birding, they know their stuff and talked me through choosing and using the right kit for this scope. Also, the phone camera is very limiting. I’m using an iPhone, and I find that it struggles at times with focus, but with practice I found that I can actually focus with EITHER the scope or the camera, for sharp images each time.
 
I would keep the scope. Low aberration spotting scopes don't grow on trees.

As I mentioned in my review, both Nikon zooms have more lateral color outside the center 10º of apparent field than I like to see (see your woodpecker photo) and the standard zoom still has the same meager 40º-60º apparent field as the original Fieldscope zoom, just better eye relief.

I consider the Baader Hyperion MK IV zoom, with much less lateral color and a 44º-68º apparent field, to be a step up to the next level. It requires a few adapter rings stacked together to fit the scope (discussed in this thread), but doing that will also open up the possibility of using some 1.25" and even 2" eyepieces (with the addition of more adapters).

Henry
 
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Hi Joker,

For an 82mm scope the Jupiter photo is good if a little strange.

Are those two moons or just artifacts?

Personally, for the price i would keep it.
But your use might be different.

Regards,
B.
Thanks! I'm leaning that way, but want to try and photograph the star test, and make a final decision then.

Those are two moons. Someone more skilled than I could definitely have had a nicer photo. Especially, considering this is a spotter.
 
Joker - it sounds like you might not have a great phone adapter (the novagrade model is the only one I’ve found to be worthwhile), and you may also benefit from unscrewing the eye-ring end of the eyepiece and clamping the adapter directly to the threaded part of the eyepiece. The wide version of the eyepiece even comes with a smaller diameter attachment for use with digiscope adapter. I recommend calling the staff at optics4birding, they know their stuff and talked me through choosing and using the right kit for this scope. Also, the phone camera is very limiting. I’m using an iPhone, and I find that it struggles at times with focus, but with practice I found that I can actually focus with EITHER the scope or the camera, for sharp images each time.
Thanks! I will give them a shout.

The one good thing with the S21 Ultra, and there are probably other good things, is the Pro Mode. I can manually focus the phone, and control the other settings as well. So, I can pick an object, focus the scope, attach the phone, focus the camera to that same object, then in theory keep the phone attached, and use only the scope focus for the rest of the hike. I've done it that way with my other scopes, but this one seems to be a bit more finicky. Probably the operator.
 
I would keep the scope. Low aberration spotting scopes don't grow on trees.

As I mentioned in my review, both Nikon zooms have more lateral color outside the center 10º of apparent field than I like to see (see your woodpecker photo) and the standard zoom still has the same meager 40º-60º apparent field as the original Fieldscope zoom, just better eye relief.

I consider the Baader Hyperion MK IV zoom, with much less lateral color and a 44º-68º apparent field, to be a step up to the next level. It requires a few adapter rings stacked together to fit the scope (discussed in this thread), but doing that will also open up the possibility of using some 1.25" and even 2" eyepieces (with the addition of more adapters).

Henry
Thanks! I need to re-read the thread and find the brand and type of adapters to buy. I'm not opposed to that at all.

If I understand you correctly, the Baader option, though, doesn't present a significantly wider field. Is that correct? Still, though, I like the option.
 
I will try to do a star test and take those photos, but it seems to star test quite well. I used my Hubble Artificial star. Tight rings inside and outside. I was using an old tripod that I borrowed from my BIL until my new stuff arrived. So, too wobbly to be reliable. However, it seemed that the pattern was slightly oval, but oriented differently inside vs outside. Astigmatism? In other words, top left to right one way and top right to left the other. Description make sense?

Hi,

yes, this is astigmatism. The question is how much... for comparison see the primary astigmatism images (unobstructed) on Star testing telescope optical quality

What is shown there is 0.37 lambda, which is equivalent to the 0.8 Strehl limit for astro optics (worse than that is usually easy to get replaced by the vendor - unlike spotting scopes)... So if you are better than that and the rings are really concentric (so no coma) and well defined on both sides of focus (so no spherical aberration), you probably have a keeper.

Joachim
 
Well, scratch most of what I said earlier about the star test. My only excuse is that when I took 30 seconds to check it out the first time, I was on a very shaky mount and tripod. It was really impossible to do anything well.

I STILL might be way off on my opinion, but I think it has some serious astigmatism, coma, and a turned edge or roughness. Maybe I am way wrong, but that is my opinion.

These images are poor, and I apologize. They are the best I could do with what I have. However, other than the color and less clear rings, what you see is very similar to what I see at the ep. As delineated, they are inside, outside, and in focus. I turned the focuser approximately 1/8th turn for the inside and outside images. I am only at a distance of approximately 50 feet from the "star", and my zoom was set approximately midway. My S21 Ultra was using the 2x optical zoom. Anything less on the phone and the image was indiscernible on the screen.

I was indoors, so there should be little to no atmospheric issues.

If the experts would be so kind, feel free to give an opinion, but mine is a bit disappointed to say the least. Still is pretty nice in use, but not jaw-dropping by any stretch. Money vs quality is still probably not horrible, but aberrations are present, I think.

EDIT to add: The difference in the size is due to cropping differences. The actual rotation of the focuser was the same distance inside and outside. I cropped to make it visible in the photo. I have the original if this affects the ability to "read" these stars.
 

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Hi Joker,

Let me first make a couple of suggestions for changes in your technique that might make the images more useful.

It's hard to avoid overexposing the focused star because the light is very concentrated. Try experimenting with exposure times that are between 2 and 4 f-stops shorter than the exposure time for an unfocused diffraction disc of 3 rings. The goal is to clearly see the Airy disc or whatever distorted shape is there instead. That might shed more light on the odd pattern that resembles coma, but perhaps is something else. It would also help with evaluating the astigmatism, which looks pretty mild to me.

I've seen that same odd coma like pattern before, where the bull's eye of rings is pretty well centered, but the bright spot that would normally be at the center of the rings is not where it should be. I think I've only seen that in scopes and binoculars that use moving focusing elements as part of the objective group. My very flimsy theory is that the cause may be a focusing element that moves on a line that is not perfectly parallel to the optical axis of the fixed elements. It may be perfectly centered at best focus but wanders off at defocused positions, which optimistically might make it relatively harmless if there is any truth to my notion. I've never seen that pattern illustrated, perhaps because like roof prism defects it just doesn't come up in the star-testing of astronomical mirrors and objective lenses that don't have moving focusing elements or roof prisms.

The other thing I would suggest is to set the zoom at 60x rather than "midway". You want all the magnification you can get for these photos.

Henry
 
Henry's theory that moving focus elements may alter the star pattern is perfectly reasonable.

Compound astro scopes such as Maksutov Cassegrain, SCT and Dall Kirkhams with moving main mirror focus often have a small amount of sideways mirror movement.
In actual use I have not found this to be a problem.

In addition with small examples, say 90mm, the focal length and focal ratio alter drastically depending on viewing method. No prism, prism, focus distance.
However, I have rarely found this to be a problem in actual use.

The only real problem case was the Sigma 500mm f/4 mirror lens where it was only of fair quality at one focus distance, otherwise very poor.

50ft may be a bit short a distance for a 82mm scope.

The star patterns can also change at close distance.

Regards,
B.
 

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